[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by ohrly?

yeah dude im desimated, im going to try to find another gear casing and then rebuild following what u did on urs

Bummer! (Thats old school jargon for "that sucks").

An 8274 shouldn't have to die such a horrible death.

[ohrly?]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

Bummer! (Thats old school jargon for "that sucks").

An 8274 shouldn't have to die such a horrible death.

I agree, I'm now looking for the lower part of the gear housing, and a new drum end (piece that bolts onto the bumper)

[lulo]

I bought a Warn winch 8274, and now begin to rebuild, my question is: I recommend that engine acquire? 4.6 hp engine (8274/50) or 9.5 winch warn XP engine?, thank you very much for your help.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by lulo

I bought a Warn winch 8274, and now begin to rebuild, my question is: I recommend that engine acquire? 4.6 hp engine (8274/50) or 9.5 winch warn XP engine?, thank you very much for your help.

Hi Lulo,

Most folks find the 4.6 hp motor to be adequate.

The "XP" version you alluded to is a 6 hp motor and would certainly provide more power and speed.....but simply using a snatch block with the 4.6 will provide all the power the average person needs.


Let us know if you have any questions about the rebuild, and please post back when you are finished with your winch, we would love to see it.

Flint.

[lulo]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

Hi Lulo,

Most folks find the 4.6 hp motor to be adequate.

The "XP" version you alluded to is a 6 hp motor and would certainly provide more power and speed.....but simply using a snatch block with the 4.6 will provide all the power the average person needs.


Let us know if you have any questions about the rebuild, and please post back when you are finished with your winch, we would love to see it.

Flint.

Hi Flint,

thanks for your reply and for your help...

...dont worry when the winch is ready upload some photos, thanks,

[OOPS]

Great write up on the rebuild. I just picked up one cheap but it is in need of some TLC. I have it all apart and I am starting to put it back together and I need a few questions answered.

Which way does this big gear mount on the small gear, A or B ?






Where does this washer go when installed in the top case, side A or B.



Thank you for any help you can give me.

[flintknapper]

OOPS,


See post #45 of this thread "disengaged" and also post #86 (some one else's winch).

The pics. should answer all your questions.

[OOPS]

Thank you, guess I should have looked a little harder.

[Buckru]

Flint,

I don't own an 8274. Heck I don't even own a winch but I enjoyed reading the entire thread just to learn something new. This is one of the best instructional threads I have had the pleasure of reading.

I get up your way from Houston now and then and if so inclined, would like to buy you a beverage of your choice.

Buck Buchanan

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Buckru

Flint,

I don't own an 8274. Heck I don't even own a winch but I enjoyed reading the entire thread just to learn something new. This is one of the best instructional threads I have had the pleasure of reading.

I get up your way from Houston now and then and if so inclined, would like to buy you a beverage of your choice.

Buck Buchanan

Thanks, you're very kind.

I am not a "drinking man" (in terms of alchohol)....but we could always go get a bite to eat (my treat).

I'm always game for meeting "Mud Members". Just give me a shout.

Flint.

[Buckru]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

Thanks, you're very kind.

I am not a "drinking man" (in terms of alchohol)....but we could always go get a bite to eat (my treat).

I'm always game for meeting "Mud Members". Just give me a shout.

Flint.

I hear ya. I'm more of an ice cold fountain coke kinda guy.

Buck

[OOPS]

Well I got it all back together and it looks and works a lot better. If it was not for this thread I would still be scratching my head.

One of the things that had me bugged was assemblying the brake. Jack at Redding 4-wheel drive explained to me over the phone how he does it.

Clamps I made.



Bearings installed..



Deep well socket for centering brake components.



Assembling brake components with socket for centering.



Push down on top disc and slip clamps on.

[OOPS]

Brake mounted, leave clamps on until snap ring is installed.



Completed unit.



Ground stud I welded to motor case.



Bumper that needs to be modified to mount 8274.



Mounting plates, I have to modify the bumper. I will more then likely use the one that say Warn on it. It is thicker and is “L” shaped. It is what is left of a full sized Ford Warn winch bumper.




Thanks again for the great write up.

[flintknapper]

Good work! Another successful 8274 rebuild.

The brake assembly technique was very innovative, thanks for sharing.


Flint.

[lulo]

Originally Posted by OOPS

Brake mounted, leave clamps on until snap ring is installed.



Completed unit.



Ground stud I welded to motor case.



Bumper that needs to be modified to mount 8274.



Mounting plates, I have to modify the bumper. I will more then likely use the one that say Warn on it. It is thicker and is “L” shaped. It is what is left of a full sized Ford Warn winch bumper.




Thanks again for the great write up.

Well Done Mate!!! another 8274 in action!

[lshobie]

Great post, I read this yesterday but rebuilt my older 8274 last year. I used a mix of tranny fluid and synthetic oil as the lube - works fine here. I have a big wide workspace ont he front of my truck so I decided to have the drum chopped from 3 inches wide to 1.5 inches and had it lengthened 4 inches as well. It should pull very well now and could get alot of rope on there. As it sits now I have 125 feet of masterpull on it. I also lengthened the fairlead by 4 inches.

To fasten the rope I use a double clove hitch on the drum, then thread the rope through the hole, I also use a rope sheath for the rope that sits on the drum. I have never had the rope slip - works great.

Tomorrow I will put a drain plug and fill plug in it, will also replace the motor with a hopped up version next year = speed things up a bit with the narrow drum. Probably add a remote as well - don't like scratching the hood of my truck.

Here are some pics.

[lulo]

Hi fellas...

I want to know if this piece, sell it or someone factory there in USA or UK? (the piece inside of the red signal)




Thanks...

[lulo]

Another guy in the pirate 4x4 forum send this link... to upgrade the 8274 winch (made in australia)

Flamin Fabrications - Twin winch adapter, Winch modification, accessories, Offroad fabrication

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by lulo

Another guy in the pirate 4x4 forum send this link... to upgrade the 8274 winch (made in australia)

Flamin Fabrications - Twin winch adapter, Winch modification, accessories, Offroad fabrication

Pretty cool, but you should see what some of the Brits are doing: Dual 6 hp. water cooled motors, wider drums, disc brake, uprgraded gears and shafts, etc...

[flintknapper]

BTT for a forum member's benefit.

[BrianSanDiego]

Awesome thread. Thank you so much for the information.

I have a couple of questions. I took the top cover off my 8074 to check the oil level and found that the large gear on the brake shaft looks to me like its on backwards. Lots of splines showing on the shaft on the passenger side and the gear hangs off spines on the drivers side. So is it in backwards? here are some pics...

Also, if I need to remove the shaft to flip the gear, I can drive it out with a drift from that edge on the shaft near that large gear. This will in turn push out the seal near the brake correct? Will I then need to replace any of the seals or bushing, or can I simply tap them back in?

Thank you so much for your help.
Brian.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by BrianSanDiego

Awesome thread. Thank you so much for the information.

I have a couple of questions. I took the top cover off my 8074 to check the oil level and found that the large gear on the brake shaft looks to me like its on backwards. Lots of splines showing on the shaft on the passenger side and the gear hangs off spines on the drivers side. So is it in backwards? here are some pics...

Also, if I need to remove the shaft to flip the gear, I can drive it out with a drift from that edge on the shaft near that large gear. This will in turn push out the seal near the brake correct? Will I then need to replace any of the seals or bushing, or can I simply tap them back in?

Thank you so much for your help.
Brian.

Hi Brian,

It's a little hard for me to tell from the pics...but it does appear the gear is situated incorrectly. More importantly, your description of the tooth engagement suggests the same.

You are correct in the procedure to remove the gear (do remember to lift the lock plate first). The "brake shaft bushing" will come out along with the seal, but if both are undamaged and not currently leaking...you can probably reuse them.

Good luck, and don't hesitate to ask...if you have any other questions or concerns.

Flint.

[BrianSanDiego]

Thank you very very much for your help.
Hopefully the repair will go smoothly.


Brian.

[flintknapper]

Let us know how it went, your experience/input may help others.

[BrianSanDiego]

Hey Flint.
It went well. I took off the brake, and then tapped out the shaft with an aluminum punch. I flipped over the gear and test fit it together, and it seemed to mesh much better. It now matches the pics from the rest of your guys' rebuilds.

The brass bushing next to the brake has a pretty loose fit in the case. I'm wondering if it will be OK like that or ??? I also managed to tap the seal back in without damaging it.

I haven't yet had a chance to test the winch. The reason I tore into it originally was because it didn't have much pulling power. I tried to tug a friends truck and trailer which was stuck in the sand. The winch just bogged out and stopped. I thought it would at least drag my 40 across the surface of the sand before the winch stalled. Shouldn't it pull harder than that? I've never used a winch before so I don't know.

Maybe I need to check the brushes and solenoids?

And a couple pics. The first is coming apart, the second and third show the gear alignment after I flipped the gear over.

Thanks again! B.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by BrianSanDiego

Hey Flint.
It went well. I took off the brake, and then tapped out the shaft with an aluminum punch. I flipped over the gear and test fit it together, and it seemed to mesh much better. It now matches the pics from the rest of your guys' rebuilds.

Yup, looks good!

The brass bushing next to the brake has a pretty loose fit in the case. I'm wondering if it will be OK like that or ??? I also managed to tap the seal back in without damaging it.

The interference fit of the brass bushing seems to vary quite a bit from one unit to another. Mine was pretty tight...but I have heard others say their's were not. I see from your second pic that you correctly seated the bushing....so that it protrudes inside the case a small amount to act as a thrust washer for the gear. Good job. Your seal should be fine.

I haven't yet had a chance to test the winch. The reason I tore into it originally was because it didn't have much pulling power.

All the gears look good....so any lack of power would not be related to that.

I tried to tug a friends truck and trailer which was stuck in the sand. The winch just bogged out and stopped. I thought it would at least drag my 40 across the surface of the sand before the winch stalled. Shouldn't it pull harder than that? I've never used a winch before so I don't know.

Brian the 8274 is pretty much a workhorse, but the pulling power depends on several things.

1. Which layer of rope you are on (nearest the drum= more power).
2. Condition of your battery and winch motor.
3. Good connections from battery to motor (especially the ground).

In the situation you described....I would have automatically used a snatch block to double the pulling power, but normally with a good battery, good winch motor... and 1st or 2nd layer of cable...yeah, it will probably skid your vehicle (mine definitely will).

Maybe I need to check the brushes and solenoids?

Always good to make sure everything is in proper working order.

And a couple pics. The first is coming apart, the second and third show the gear alignment after I flipped the gear over.

Good pics, thanks for sharing and for your participation in this thread.

Thanks again.

Da Nada!

[EatingSpam]

First would like to say Wicked write up.

Now to the questions, I have an 8274 and I am trying to get the main shaft out because it seems to be leaking sludge(oil). Will new bushings solve this leak? Also I am having a hard time getting it out, just use a brass punch and giver hard?

Thanks

Colin

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by EatingSpam

First would like to say Wicked write up.

Now to the questions, I have an 8274 and I am trying to get the main shaft out because it seems to be leaking sludge(oil). Will new bushings solve this leak?

Most likely.

Also I am having a hard time getting it out, just use a brass punch and giver hard?

Yup. Make certain you have lifted up the "locking plate" though.

[george_tlc]

I figure I may as well add to this thread - might as well keep all the 8274 info in one place.

A few years back I converted my 24V diesel patrol to 12V and converted my 24V 8274 to 12V. Here's the write up from my website. This may help someone that wants to do the same conversion or vice versa or just to understand the wiring difference of the 24V model.

----------------------
Next the winch retrofit from 24V to 12V. I purchased a new 4.5HP 12V Warn style motor in the US and brought it back with me.

Here's the winch before I started the motor swap. NOTE: the solenoids on a 24V winch ARE 12V solenoids, each pair (cross connected) are wired in series - BUT read below! For 12V operation the control signals are rewired for parallel operation. Of course I bought 5 (4 + 1 spare) 12V solenoids thinking that Warn used 24V solenoids in their 24V winches. Guess I have 5 spare solenoids now .

There is a subtle difference in the solenoids between a true 12V winch and a 24V winch. On a 12V winch ALL 4 solenoids have a common ground path through their body, hence only a SINGLE control wire goes to each solenoid and hence each cross connected pair is in parallel (12V operation). In a 24V winch the UPPER 2 solenoids have a common ground path through the body BUT the bottom 2 solenoids are DIFFERENT in that they do NOT have a ground path through the body. This means that the bottom 2 solenoids have 2 control wires and each one is wired IN SERIES with the cross connected mate - hence 24V operation. Took a bit of head scratching to figure out this subtle difference...

You can see how NEW the old solenoids look, the winch has been on my MQ for over 20 years - having a good fitting water proof cover is the reason. It may look all macho to have the winch exposed - but I'll keep the cover on mine...



Here's some new hookup info to rewire the 24V solenoid for 12V operation (remember that the solenoids ARE 12V, regardless of 24V or 12V operation - they are just wired in series for 24V and parallel for 12V).

The following picture shows how the control box is wired for for 24V operation (as a reference). The key is to note where the Black and Green wires connect from the Control Box. Basically the Black and Green carry 24V from the hand control to energize one cross connected solenoid pair or the other cross connected solenoid pair.



The next picture shows the original wiring (that will be left EXACTLY in place). The ONLY thing that needs to be 'rewired' is the Black and Green wires from the Control Box and the addition of 2 new wires to provide Ground connection to the bottom 2 solenoids. As noted in the picture the top 2 solenoids are DIFFERENT than the bottom 2 solenoids (i.e. they have DIFFERENT part numbers).



The next picture shows where the Black and Green Control Box wires need to be rewired to. It also shows where new Ground wires need to be connected to the bottom 2 solenoids. You can wire the new bottom 2 solenoid wires to the top two solenoid coils (where there are no wires originally - since those two 'lugs' are electrically grounded through the body of those 2 solenoids).



Once you have added in the new ground wires for the bottom two solenoids AND moved the Black and Green Control box wires to the new positions what you have done is wired the solenoids in Parallel (for 12V operation) rather than in Series (for 24V operation). So, for 12V operation Solenoid #2 and #3 coils are in parallel and Solenoid #1 and #4 coils are in parallel. (Originally, for 24V operation, Solenoid #2 and #3 coils are in series and Solenoid #1 and #4 coils are in series).

That's all there is to it. Of course you ALSO need to change the motor to a 12V unit as below...

The new 12V winch motor installed into the top of the gear box. Anyone need a good running 24V Winch motor? Once the back plate is removed off the motor the brushes will be exposed and they will slide off the commutator. that allows the motor to be pulled clear of the housing and installed onto the gear box.



Close up of the motor installed in the box. I chose the original style keyway motor from the supplier I bought the motor from. I had to clean off the old sealant and then applied some new non-hardening gasket forming material. Pretty simple looking in there eh? The knob on the left just slides the gear on the motor shaft clear of the large gear - that disengages the motor and allows the cable to be easily pulled off the drum.



cheers,
george.

[flintknapper]

Cool!

Thanks for the 24v info.

Flint.