[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by 4xJunkie

Well the guy I got it from was TasselsDesignLTD on Pirate.
Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Profile: TasselsDesignLTD


Another guy could also try is Pat98TJ also on Pirate, He is from [url=http://www.offroadoverstock.com[/url]
Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Profile: Pat98TJ

He post deals all the time on Pirate.

He was able to get me my 9.5Ti for $887 to my door.

Just PM them and ask, and if you don't have the #'s here they are.

Warn Part #'s
9.5XP motor #68608
Pinion gear #15879
XP Control pack #68609

Thank you Sir,

That will be very helpful.

[aborzaro]

Absolutely one of the best write ups I have ever seen of the Warn 8274, my compliments. I am in the process of rebuilding mine after seeing your write up, just one question; I am stuck on getting the main brake shaft out of the casing without bending or cracking the aluminium casting. How did you get this shaft out?

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by aborzaro

I am in the process of rebuilding mine after seeing your write up, just one question; I am stuck on getting the main brake shaft out of the casing without bending or cracking the aluminium casting. How did you get this shaft out?

For visual reference go back to posts 37 & 42.

The easiest (and perhaps only) way...is to drive the brake shaft out using a brass drift punch. You'll want to confine your strikes to the area shown.

It does require a bit of effort. You are actually driving out the lip seal, the bronze bushing and the brake shaft all at one time. Like you, I initially had concerns. The case is not very thick....but apparently it is stronger than it appears. Once the seal is driven out, the rest comes out without as much effort.

Of course, this is not possible unless you lift the lock-plate up into the position that exposes the "large" hole for the brake shaft to travel through.

Use a clamp to hold the lock-plate in the "unlocked" position.

__________________________________________________ _______________


When reassembling, I again used a pair of vise grips to lightly clamp the lock-plate in place (unlocked position). This leaves both hands free to place the other parts in the case.

Next... you will hold the intermediate gear inside the case while guiding the brake-shaft assembly through the bushing bore (without bushing or seal in place).

The splined cam gear will mate with the splines of the intermediate gear and the tail of the shaft will go into the needle bearing that resides in the case housing (grease the bearing).

At this point, push the lock plate down until it locks in the grooves on the drum and brake-shaft. You are now ready to reinstall the bronze bushing. The bushing should be tapped into place until it just protrudes into the inside of the case.

The bushing acts a thrust bearing for the intermediate gear (keeps it from rubbing the case).

Next, you'll want to install the lip seal. Lightly grease it and tap in place.

Bottom end is done at this juncture. The brake/clutch assembly is best left to be assembled last.

[aborzaro]

Wow what a fast and as per the rest of the thread precise and detailed reply... I'll give it a further go, it won't be until Monday now but I'll let you know how I get on,. Thanks again.

[MrWwindow]

Flint:

Got my 8274 yesterday!

Hooked up to a battery everything seems to work ok.
I'ts a little banged up from shipping but I think I can tweak and bend things back i shape.

2 questions.
How do you get the top of the case off? Iv'e taken the alan heads off and whacked it, pulled and even tried a thin putty knife to loosen the halves?

How much play should be in the drum, looking at the front of the winch should it move up and down and front to back kinda wiggle? When not mounted to anything.

If that is normal then I may not need to split the case. I took the clutch palte off carefully to look at the oil. It was kinda thick but medium honey brown. Saw a splined shaft on the motor too!

Here are the numbers from the top maybe you'll know what Iv'e got. 284832 Date code GE6. Motor (M-mrv-b-4) (N-15877) (S-0785)

Thanks
James

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by MrWwindow

2 questions.
How do you get the top of the case off? Iv'e taken the alan heads off and whacked it, pulled and even tried a thin putty knife to loosen the halves?

How much play should be in the drum, looking at the front of the winch should it move up and down and front to back kinda wiggle? When not mounted to anything.

If that is normal then I may not need to split the case. I took the clutch palte off carefully to look at the oil. It was kinda thick but medium honey brown. Saw a splined shaft on the motor too!

To separate the case halves I used a thin wedge shaped gasket scraper.

The case halves incorporate a tongue and groove feature that prevents the case from moving laterally (shearing), meaning the top half must go up. This also provides an excellent surface to apply the sealant….which is just what they did at the factory.

You will need to pry at the reinforced areas ONLY (see illustration). Do not do any prying from the motor side!



Just another view:



If you are fortunate, your motor will have the 20 spline shaft and motor gear.

This is the preferred set-up because it offers two things: Increased contact area between the shaft and gear and compatibility with newer replacement motors (no need to buy a new gear).



To answer your question about the drum fitment, there is a certain amount of play present (even with new bushings), but I can not say how much is “too much” except that at some point you would develop a leak where the drum enters the case. If your case is not presently leaking…then I would leave that area alone.

If you decide to venture into the gearing for any reason, you will find that “tolerances” are most generous, do not be alarmed. If it were possible to pick up an 8274 and shake it, it would sound like a couple of pebbles in the bottom of a Coke Can.

Still, they work very well…and have proven themselves reliable over the long haul.


Let us know how it goes.

Flint.

[zekerd73]

Thanks for the write up post. I am doing a rebuild of an 8274 as well.

I cannot get the brake assembly off. The keys on the shaft seem to have fused with the shaft. I remove the retaining clip and it did not come apart. I used about a pint of pb blaster and wd 40 on it and it will not come loose. Any suggestions?

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by zekerd73

Thanks for the write up post. I am doing a rebuild of an 8274 as well.

I cannot get the brake assembly off. The keys on the shaft seem to have fused with the shaft. I remove the retaining clip and it did not come apart. I used about a pint of pb blaster and wd 40 on it and it will not come loose. Any suggestions?

Two suggestions:

1. Stop using the penetrating oil, clearly its not helping.
2. See posts #36-37 of this thread.

I do not live in the "rust belt"...so mine came off quite easily, but others might require the use of a 2 or 3 jaw puller to persuade it.

A worse case scenario would involve splitting the case, driving the brake shaft out and putting it in a press.

I would think a "small" amount of heat and a puller would make short work of the job for most folks.

Let us know how it goes.

[Cruiserdrew]

Flint-I notice this is part 1. What is coming in part 2?

Looking forward to it.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by Cruiserdrew

Flint-I notice this is part 1. What is coming in part 2?

Looking forward to it.

Yeah, it kind of grew.

Of course, I took pics. when I did mine, but I never really intended to do a write up.

Originally, I thought I'd just show all the parts cleaned up (part 1)....and maybe a few stages of the reassembly (part 2).

I really just wanted to help others who might have an 8274 in need of service.

God only knows... how much of Woody's bandwidth I used up.

[SouthBostonFJ]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

Clutch mechanism assembled:

You wouldn't happen to know the thread size for the clutch knob shaft, would you? I am trying to source a new knob and as you probably know Warn doesn't make the 8328 knob any longer.

[flintknapper]

Hi SB,

I didn't take the knob off when I coated mine, so I don't know the thread size/pitch.

The shaft itself is 3/8"....so I'm guessing the knob would be 3/8-16 (coarse thread) assuming it screws on.

[MrWwindow]

Flint
I just took my knob off. It's 3/8 course 16.
The knob is brass on the inside.
You probably could find one at your hardware store if it that has all those bins with drawers with all special wierd parts and pieces. I know mine has knobs, might even have the right one.

Just a thought
James

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by MrWwindow

Flint
I just took my knob off. It's 3/8 course 16.
The knob is brass on the inside.You probably could find one at your hardware store if it that has all those bins with drawers with all special wierd parts and pieces. I know mine has knobs, might even have the right one.

Just a thought
James

And there is the answer.


Thanks James.

[MrWwindow]

No problem gotta give a little back to those who give so much.

Flint what do you think of a fill hole at the fill level on the side of the case and a drain further down maybe on the bottom radi? That way you could fill the case like you do other things, when it's full it dribles out. Also drain it like your oil pan.

James

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by MrWwindow

No problem gotta give a little back to those who give so much.

Flint what do you think of a fill hole at the fill level on the side of the case and a drain further down maybe on the bottom radi? That way you could fill the case like you do other things, when it's full it dribles out. Also drain it like your oil pan.
James

Unfortunately, we are somewhat limited as to where we can put the fill and drain plugs… owing largely to the arrangement of the gears inside the case.

I like your idea of having a fill hole at a point on the case that the lubricant spills out when at correct capacity.

The only problem is…. finding a place to put it. As you can see in the pic. below….the lower part of the case is heavily reinforced with ribbing limiting what we can do there.



We can’t go to the motor side for obvious reasons…and the front of the case would likely be covered by the mounting bracket… so we are left with only the clutch side to work with.

The level of the oil if filled per factory recommendations (6 fl. ozs), barely covers the bottom of the main gear. I fear that putting a hole that far down on the case (unless very small) would place it too close to the drain hole…thus weakening the case.

Here is a pic. looking straight down into the lower case with 6 ozs. of lube in it. As you can see, it is barely detectable.



At this level, leakage from the drum seal is highly unlikely because it just barely reaches the seal. I put a new seal in mine and about 12-14 ozs. of a mixture of Synthetic Gear Lube & Marvel Mystery Oil and have had no leaks.

Even if I develop a leak at a later date…the problem will be self correcting. It will simply leak down to the recommended level. Of course….this doesn’t take into account off camber angles your vehicle is subjected to, so additional oil loss is possible if you have a leaky seal.

Regardless of where you put your fill/drain holes and what size you choose…I would recommend that you stay away from any radius on the case, so as not to compromise its integrity. Aside from the reinforcing ribs, the radii are sources of strength.

My drain plug (while unsightly) allows me to place a 3/8" tube inside the fitting as soon as the cap comes off. This way I can drain the lube away without making much of a mess.

But, I'm sure there are at least a half dozen ways to do it.

Let us know what you come up with. I am always eager to learn.

Flint.

[Cruiserdrew]

I don't even know what the proper fill is, 6 oz didn't seem like enough, so I have 8-10 oz of gear oil. That's a great pic of how little oil 6 oz actually is!

I think your idea of filling to the bottom of the seal is pretty sound. You should drain it out and see how much that is in ounces.

[MrWwindow]

Originally Posted by SouthBostonFJ

You wouldn't happen to know the thread size for the clutch knob shaft, would you? I am trying to source a new knob and as you probably know Warn doesn't make the 8328 knob any longer.

Found one but not round,T shaped. Hardware stores that carry Hillman products with all the little bins of odd stuff.
$3.90.
Might do a search on Hillman I don't have the part number.
Good luck
James

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by MrWwindow

Found one but not round,T shaped. Hardware stores that carry Hillman products with all the little bins of odd stuff.
$3.90.
Might do a search on Hillman I don't have the part number.
Good luck
James

Yeah, he can find something for it pretty easily.

I'd be surprised if the current "T" shaped knob for the newer 8274-50 isn't a direct replacement.

He may want a round one however.

[zekerd73]

Hi flintknapper,

Another question: Is there an easy way to remove the drum from the gear inside. I have tried a wedge between the housing and the gear inside, but that sucker is on there. I don't want to damage the housing. Any suggestions? Again, your help is greatly appreciated.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by zekerd73

Hi flintknapper,

Another question: Is there an easy way to remove the drum from the gear inside. I have tried a wedge between the housing and the gear inside, but that sucker is on there. I don't want to damage the housing. Any suggestions? Again, your help is greatly appreciated.

Hello Z,

I assume you moved the lockplate that holds the drum to the case into it's upward position. Otherwise the drum will not come loose. See Post #42 of this thread for an illustration.

If you have...and it still doesn't want to come free, I would suggest you use two wooden wedges and gently tap them in behind the gear as you have been doing.

The fitment of the drum to the gear is not tight. Tolerances are "generous"..so unless you have a rust issue it should come apart easily. Double check that lockplate.

[Skillet]

Holy shmoly.

Good work and great writeup!

[mmw68]

Hey Flint - Thanks for the write up - follow it and rebuilt my 8274!

Thanks - again. -Mark

[flintknapper]

Looks great Mark.

Excellent work.

[zekerd73]

Thanks for the reply Flint. You did assume right. I actually took out the brake shaft and the lock plate came out with it. There must be some rust or mud between the splines on the drum and the gear. I am taking pics as I go so I should have something to show you eventually. For now I am going to try the two wood or plastic shims. I will keep you posted.

[mkaustin]

OK. Finally got some time to tear into my 8274. This thing is in great shape.
There is only a little rust on the motor shaft (which made the clutch inoperable) and the brake pawl was quite gummed up w/ old grease.

I wanted to clean the case, but I can not figure out how to take out the cluster gears from the top half of the housing or what to do w/ the needle bearings in the lower half of the housing.

The inside of the case is quite clean considering that it is almost 30 year old, but I'd still like to clean the out side. Since I don't have access to a beadblast system, my options are limited to pressure spray systems to get in all the corners.

Any ideas how to keep the spray away from the cluster gears and the needle bearing?

Thanks

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by mkaustin

OK. Finally got some time to tear into my 8274. This thing is in great shape.
There is only a little rust on the motor shaft (which made the clutch inoperable) and the brake pawl was quite gummed up w/ old grease.

I wanted to clean the case, but I can not figure out how to take out the cluster gears from the top half of the housing or what to do w/ the needle bearings in the lower half of the housing.

The inside of the case is quite clean considering that it is almost 30 year old, but I'd still like to clean the out side. Since I don't have access to a beadblast system, my options are limited to pressure spray systems to get in all the corners.

Any ideas how to keep the spray away from the cluster gears and the needle bearing?

Thanks

Hi Mike,

'bout time you got that thing apart!

Yours is clean enough that you don't need to disassemble it any more IMO.

The brushes on the motor look great. Doesn't appear to me that the winch was used very much. I would just use compressed air to blow out inside of the winch motor, put some oil on the bronze bearing in the end cap and call it good for the motor.

For the winch case, absent a parts washer or bead blaster...I would take the drum off the lower case half then buy a five gallon bucket...fill it 2/3rds with diesel or Varsol (mineral spirits) and put one case "half" at a time in it. Let it soak overnight and then use a brass bristled cleaning brush to clean the outside.

Do the bottom case the same way...and the drum last. When you're done you can take it all to the car wash and pressure spray it clean.

Don't worry about getting water on the gears or needle bearings. Just soak it down with WD-40 real well and blow it off with compressed air when you get back. If you don't have compressed air, towel it off and use hair a dryer, just make sure you do this within hours of cleaning it, so you don't get any rust started on the gears or braking system.

No need to tear it down any further than you have it unless you want to reseal it.


Keep us posted.

[mkaustin]

Flint,

Do you have any detailed pics of the disassembled brake assembly?

I'm having a very hard time getting the brake disks off the shaft and I'd like to see what the insides look like to know what I'm working with? I've removed the snap ring and the ratchet disk spins freely between the disk plates.


If I didn't hear the ball bearings rolling around completely dry of any grease, I'd just put it back on and use it. I can see what looks like more than 1/8" brake material between the disk plates and the ratchet disk. I just don't want to get it this far apart to leave the BBs rolling around w/ out any grease.

After the brake assembly, I just need to get the clutch assembly moving freely and I'll be on the way to re-assembling this puppy.

Thanks for all you help and comments.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by mkaustin

Flint,

Do you have any detailed pics of the disassembled brake assembly?

No Sir. I did not document that part of the rebuild because it has already been done by another person. Go to this link and observe items 25-29 and 49-53. Warn 8274 rebuild

I'm having a very hard time getting the brake disks off the shaft and I'd like to see what the insides look like to know what I'm working with? I've removed the snap ring and the ratchet disk spins freely between the disk plates.

There is nothing else holding it on after you remove the snap ring. Most likely the shaft and key-stock are rusted. You'll want to soak the area with penetrating oil. Use crocus cloth to clean up the shaft and probably use a puller to remove the discs. Mine came right off.

If I didn't hear the ball bearings rolling around completely dry of any grease, I'd just put it back on and use it.

Yup, you'll want to get in there and grease them lightly. Eventually, it will go dry again, but its a good idea to take of this now.

I can see what looks like more than 1/8" brake material between the disk plates and the ratchet disk.

The thickness sounds about right, but you'll want to check them to see that they have not deteriorated of become too brittle.

I just don't want to get it this far apart to leave the BBs rolling around w/ out any grease.

Roger that!

After the brake assembly, I just need to get the clutch assembly moving freely and I'll be on the way to re-assembling this puppy.

Yup. It is all very simple. You will see when you get into it.

Thanks for all you help and comments.

Happy to do it. Let us know if hit any stumbling blocks.

Flint.

[ohrly?]

hey cool, I just bought one of these:

24 volt, great running condition, 7 years old or something,

I paid $250


Just waiting to get some 5 inch channel so that i can mount it on my truck,

it was banged around in the back of my truck, only a little tiny bit, went over a hill and through a 100 meter dirt road and around town, and took it out of my truck and stood it up straight and it leaked oil everywhere, came from bottom of the motor housing area, but of course it couldnt have been from the motor because there is no oil in there,


what is my next step?