[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by SPM_Ltd

Thanks for your comments.

I have not been able to remove the brake system from the shaft (apparently it is really stuck).

I was considering removing the brake system/shaft as an assembly and them removing the brake system from the shaft away from the Aluminum housing.

Does this seem possible?

When I attempted to remove the brake system/shaft as an assembly, it seemed to be butting up some resistance - my guess it is the shaft seal that is pressed into the housing.

The internal gear does not appear to be mechanically attached to the shaft (only attached thru the splines).

Perhaps I have being to careful and just need to apply a bit more force.

Appreciate your comments.

Steve

Steve...have you tried using a puller yet. The brakes disc's should come off without too much trouble.

You can certainly remove the brake system and shaft as one unit. That way you could put it in a press if needed...but it really shouldn't require that much force.

To remove the shaft you'll need to split the case, pull up on the lock-plate and use a brass drift punch to drive out the shaft. The splined cam gear that fits on the brake-shaft is larger than the bronze bushing in the case. So, in essence you are driving the lip seal and bronze bushing out along with the shaft and cam.

The whole assembly will then come out.

I'll post some pics in a bit.

[flintknapper]

This shows the lower end with brake-shaft, intermediate gear and main-gear.

Both the drum AND brake-shaft are held in place by the lock-plate.

Lock-Plate in down (locked) position:



In order to remove the either the drum or brake-shaft, you must pull up on it as pictured.

Lock-Plate in up (unlocked) position:




If you intend to remove the brake-shaft, use a brass drift punch against this surface only:



You will be driving out the lip seal, the bronze bushing and the brake-shaft all at one time.

IMO, there needs to be compelling reason to do this.

[mkaustin]

Flintknapper,

Great writeup! Just what I was looking for.

I just picked up an 8274 that is either 1978 or 1988 (Date Code: BF8, S/N: 79xxx). I'm going to be tearing it down like you did yours and I know that I will need new cables from the solenoids to the motor. The wire in my cables look good (no corrosion), but the insulation has been weathered quite badly.

Are the cables that you mentioned in your parts list, the cables from the solenoids to the motor?

I'd be interested in some pictures of the upper half. On mine the clutch knob shaft is frozen in place. Will removing the four screws around the clutch plate allow me to remove the clutch shaft and assembly?
Did you try to check the bearings in your motor? Do you know if he motor is rebuildable? (bearings/bushngs)

Last question. What did you use to paint the drum? I'm probably going to use wire rope on it at first, and I'd like to use something that will help prevent the wire from starting new rust points.

Thanks for any info.

[flintknapper]

MKAustin wrote:

I just picked up an 8274 that is either 1978 or 1988 (Date Code: BF8, S/N: 79xxx). I'm going to be tearing it down like you did yours and I know that I will need new cables from the solenoids to the motor. The wire in my cables look good (no corrosion), but the insulation has been weathered quite badly.

Are the cables that you mentioned in your parts list, the cables from the solenoids to the motor?

No, the cable I mentioned was simply new wire rope for the spool, however.. the electrical cables are still avialable. There are three, you will need one of each.

5-1/2".....Part # 6007
6-1/2".....Part # 6008
7-1/2".....Part # 6009

The cover for the wire at the motor end is called a "nipple" and is Part # 2090.

Here is a source for parts. (These folks are not fast, so be patient.)

Warn Authorized Parts and Service Center: warnserviceparts.com

I'd be interested in some pictures of the upper half. On mine the clutch knob shaft is frozen in place. Will removing the four screws around the clutch plate allow me to remove the clutch shaft and assembly?
Did you try to check the bearings in your motor? Do you know if he motor is rebuildable? (bearings/bushngs)

I'll see what pics I have available that I haven't already posted and place them here a little latter. Yes, removing the four screws will allow you to remove the clutch assembly. It has sealant around it, so you'll need to slowly pry it off. The shaft itself gets rusty... making it difficult to operate. Once cleaned and lubed...they work fine.

Be very careful not to drop the motor shaft gear into the bottom of the case (if you're not planning on splitting the case).

The bearing for the motor shaft is a 6203RS (double sealed), it's available anywhere, don't special order.

The bushing in the motor cap is replaceable, but most likely will be fine. Brushes are available, you'll just need to check yours for length. I wouldn't rebuild this motor if it needed anything other than brushes and bearings. You can buy a new motor off e-bay for about $100.00

Be advised, there are two types of motor shafts. One is splined and the other has a keyed shaft. If you buy a motor.. it will need to match your motor shaft gear (splined or keyed), OR...you can buy a splined motor shaft gear and mate it to a newer style motor. Also, there are other motors that will interchange (up to 6hp).

Last question. What did you use to paint the drum? I'm probably going to use wire rope on it at first, and I'd like to use something that will help prevent the wire from starting new rust points.

The black portion is Rustoleum Black Appliance Epoxy. I have used this for years on different items exposed to the weather. It is very tough. Wire rope and high tension loads...of course..will eventually take their toll, so nothing you use will be permanent.

Thanks for any info.

Happy to help.

[flintknapper]

Clutch mechanism assembled:




Clutch in “engaged” position:




Clutch in “disengaged” position:

[MrWwindow]

I've been watching this thread with great anticipation.
I've got a used 8274 on it's way, it looks to be in great shape. But Flinknapper made it an easy decision even if it is'nt I'll know what to do to get back to new.

Thanks Flintknapper for the write up.

James

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by MrWwindow

I've been watching this thread with great anticipation.
I've got a used 8274 on it's way, it looks to be in great shape. But Flinknapper made it an easy decision even if it is'nt I'll know what to do to get back to new.

Thanks Flintknapper for the write up.

James

I can assure you...there is nothing "scary" about refurbishing one of these.

If I can do it, anyone can.


Don't hesitate to ask questions, I am happy to help.


Flint.

[Cruiserdrew]

Outstanding thread Flint. I wish you had done this before I redid mine 2 years ago. It would have saved me a ton of effort/frustration and calls to Poser and Warn. Congrats.

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

This is one of the great rebuilding thread. You did an awesome job! I admire your skills, talent, attention to detail, and your time.

Originally posted by flintknapper
All of this for aesthetics of course. It serves NO purpose in terms of function.

My friend, yes it does serves a purpose and this is to prevent or minimize the corrosion on the mechanical parts that you just sandblasted, primed and painted. So it is not just for aesthetics look but for corrosion control too

[flintknapper]

Exploded Diagrams and part #'s

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...4_and_down.pdf


http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...816_and_up.pdf

[mkaustin]

Flintknapper,

One last question.

Where did you get the stickers/decals to put back on the winch?
Those make it look like a brand new winch.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by mkaustin

Flintknapper,

One last question.

Where did you get the stickers/decals to put back on the winch?
Those make it look like a brand new winch.

Call or email “Stephanie” at Warn customer service and request a decal packet for an older model 8274. Warn Industries - Contact Us


The red “W” for the front of the solenoid cover is no longer available, but you can put the one from the packet on top of the cover as I did.

This is what you should receive after contacting her several more times to remind her (but be nice):

[4xJunkie]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

My next mod. will be the 6hp motor swap.

I have a 8274 that I will be going through here shortly, and I have already bought the XP 6hp motor with XP solenoid pack, it should make it one hell of a winch.

The one mod I would like to do is the double motor setup using two 6hp motors from Gigglepin, but I don't think anyone in the states sell there stuff.

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

"Flintknapper," awesome thread! Thanks for sharing with us all!

Regards,

Alan

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by 4xJunkie

I have a 8274 that I will be going through here shortly, and I have already bought the XP 6hp motor with XP solenoid pack, it should make it one hell of a winch.

The one mod I would like to do is the double motor setup using two 6hp motors from Gigglepin, but I don't think anyone in the states sell there stuff.

The XP 6hp will be the next mod. to mine. I will be satisfied with that for my purposes.


The Brit's have done some pretty cool stuff with the 8274 for their competitions.

Double 6 hp motors, disc brakes, even water cooled dual motor set-ups.

I just need a good reliable winch for every day ranch work and the occasional vehicle recovery effort (usually someone else's).

This 8274 has served me well for almost a quarter century now. It was time to freshen it up...even though it was still running strong when I tore it down.

[bj70_guy]

Thanks for the thread Flintknapper. It looks like I'm about to do this myself with a condition unknown 24V 8274, so this is really useful.

Just curious, have you priced out one of those 6hp motors yet?

and by the way, your winch looks great!

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by bj70_guy

Just curious, have you priced out one of those 6hp motors yet?

Finding a "deal" on the 6hp motor has proved to be impossible thus far.

If you don't know someone who works for a Warn dealer (and can get an employee discount), then plan on shucking out $400.00 or better.

The 6hp motor and "newer" 4.5hp motors use a 20 spline shaft.

Some of the older 8274's have a "keyed" motor shaft (and drive gear).

I mention this...because, you may need to buy a splined drive gear (called a Motor Pinion Gear) to go with the new motor if your old one was keyed.

A replacement 4.5 motor can be had in either configuration (keyed or splined) off of e-bay for between $85.00 & $125.00 respectively.

If anyone finds a bargain on the 6hp motor that comes on the XP 9.5
Warn winch, please post it here.

Thanks,

Flint.

[4xJunkie]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

Finding a "deal" on the 6hp motor has proved to be impossible thus far.

If anyone finds a bargain on the 6hp motor that comes on the XP 9.5
Warn winch, please post it here.

Well I got my XP motor and XP Solenoid pack, which was complete with controller and cables and the Pinion gear for a about $450.

I got it from a Warn service dealer on Pirate, right now I don't remember who it was but if I should remember I will post it, he was much cheaper then what you get off a website
.

I'll try and find it.

[flintknapper]

Originally Posted by 4xJunkie

Well I got my XP motor and XP Solenoid pack, which was complete with controller and cables and the Pinion gear for a about $450.

I got it from a Warn service dealer on Pirate, right now I don't remember who it was but if I should remember I will post it, he was much cheaper then what you get off a website
.

I'll try and find it.

Please do, that sounds like a heck of a deal!


Thanks,

Flint.

[4xJunkie]

Originally Posted by flintknapper

Please do, that sounds like a heck of a deal!


Thanks,

Flint.

Well the guy I got it from was TasselsDesignLTD on Pirate.
Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Profile: TasselsDesignLTD


Another guy could also try is Pat98TJ also on Pirate, He is from [url=http://www.offroadoverstock.com[/url]
Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board - View Profile: Pat98TJ

He post deals all the time on Pirate.

He was able to get me my 9.5Ti for $887 to my door.

Just PM them and ask, and if you don't have the #'s here they are.

Warn Part #'s
9.5XP motor #68608
Pinion gear #15879
XP Control pack #68609