Tire Advice

[greytandy]

Due to circumstances, the IRS is being generous to us this year. So, I decided to piss part of it away on a 2" (or so) OME suspension for Big Red. The current springs are very tired. I currently have 30x9.5 A/T BFGs, which are a bit small. I am considering new tires. I would like to keep the tires A/Ts, don't want no rub, good off-road capability, and not stress the birfs too much. My goal is to keep the vehicle "stockish" (i.e., this isn't going to be a trail rig - yet). I've read the multitude of posts in the 40-55 section but, as usual, there's no definitive answers. Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

P.S. I believe I have 10" rims.

[76FJ40]

Dave,

Sounds like you've started down the Cruiser path from which there is no return. Like many Cruiser Heads, I went down this path a step at a time: 2" lift, 4" lift, SOA and 32s, 33s, 35s, 37s, ... If there's any chance you're on this path, save yourself a lot of $$$ and leap ahead a few steps so you're not constantly changing your lift and tires. I'd suggest going to a 33x12.50 or 33x9.50. with either a 2" or 4lift.

I've had bad luck with General MTs, good luck with BFG ATs and better luck with MT/Rs. I just bought a spare MT/R and got a good price and free shipping from treaddepot.com. Walmart also carries BFGs and Goodyears and has good prices as well as Costco.

[Blue77FJ40]

BFG are notorious for tearing sidewalls on pointy rocks. I'd suggest Interco TSLs or goodyear MTRs. And use 8" rims, not 10" as you get better rim protection. If you hafta buy new rims, Summit Racing has great prices on white spokers. My 2 cents.

[greytandy]

Yeah, I was thinking 33x9.5. How badly will 33s stress my birfs? Without power steering I think 12.5 may be a bit much. How do M/Ts fair on pavement as far as longevity? I know they're noisier, but who could tell, right?

[Blue77FJ40]

If you mean MT/Rs by goodyear, mine have about 10K on them and show some wear. Hard to tell how much because a lot is from rock damage.

[John Smith]

I would go with a 4" lift and some 33x12.5 MTRs on a 8inch wheel. That is a nice combo that won't rub and will take you down trials that won't destroy your truck. Dan and Sebastien are running almost the exact same combo so you will be setup alike, which is nice when following your group wheeling.

If you don't put a locker in the front your stock birfs will probably last a long time if you don't beat the truck or backup with your wheels turned hard. If you are going to wheel it and keep the stock axle you are going to be buying Longfields like the rest of us sooner than later. Changing birfs on the trail gets old real fast.

[colangut]

Dave,

23 years ago, I started with 31" Yokohama Super Diggers, Went to a 32" Armstrong True Trak, then a 33" BFG MT, then 34" SSR Swampers and 36'' inch TSL/SX. Then 10 years ago, I started to go the other way, down to 35" inch BFG's, then 33" Buckshots and finally down to 33x10.50 radial swampers and 33x10.50 BFG MT's.

If you going to wheel hard core in Tenn, you should run a larger lift and tires, but for just pokin around in the area on the mild trails that can all be done in a stock cruiser, then 33's are fine.

Mark Algazy (Marksoffroad.net) does the Rubicon over and over again on 33's so it can be done. Donny had done nearly every trail at Tellico with 32x9.50's bias ply swampers so it can be done (with some body damage and a few short cuts). Perhaps the trails are harder now. He can drive like a mo fo tho...as can Mark.

Disclaimer: All of the above advice is really good, these guys actually wheel. Anymore, I just want to play around on my friend's farm or do some light trail ride, so my advice is aimed at that. You decide what works for you. If you want to run with the big dogs and take the hard line like Bob and John, you'll need 35's.

I love Emu and 33x10 BFG or Swamper myself. Best to run them on a FJ60 wheel. IIRC this is what I had when I sold my truck to Tom Thornton. Check out the pics of his truck. "If I can't go there on 33's I don't need to go there" "Bob of the Big Dogs" and he went some places...James Asti seems to get around on 33's as well, with a lot of use of the long skinny pedal I must say. I've also seen him shred all 4 BFG's on the same trail ride.

PS - your a lucky bastard as I have to pay $37K this year. My accountant called me as I was eating lunch, somehow, the rest of my food did not taste as good.

[greytandy]

Thanks guys - I appreciate all the good advice. I already paid for the OME suspension so I guess I'm committed to that. I guess BFG 33x10.5 MTs are a good choice. I'm not sure I can afford five tires AND five 8" rims. I may be stuck with the 10" ones I currently have. The question is, with this setup, will I have the capability to step up to blue trails without difficulty? Thanks again!

John S. - Don't feel bad. I just noticed a water stain on our ceiling below my shower. That needs to be redone. I may be on 30x9.5s for a while.

[colangut]

Dave,

Idea: See if someone wants to trade their FJ60/FJ62 wheels for your 10" inch rims.

I don't think you want to put a 10.50 on a 10" rim. 7" or 8" inch would be ideal. You can even run them on a 6" inch stock rim - and that looks really cool with hubcaps.

As for the shower, probably just needs to be re caulked. Go to the this old house website and look up the Tommy Silva article on how to do this. The trick is to clean with alcohol or lacquer thinner.

[greytandy]

Originally Posted by colangut

Dave,
As for the shower, probably just needs to be re caulked. Go to the this old house website and look up the Tommy Silva article on how to do this. The trick is to clean with alcohol or lacquer thinner.

Yes, it definitely needs to be recaulked, and has been several times. The cheap-ass builder used a crappy malleable plastic floor that will move with every step, rendering any attempts to caulk useless. Also, some tiles are coming loose and I don't feel like regrouting crap.

[greytandy]

I assume these wheels would be adequate?

Cragar 3105860 - Cragar Nomad I Wheels - summitracing.com
or
U.S. Wheel 70-5855-SPEC - U.S. Wheel Custom Order Dropship Only Wheels - summitracing.com

[colangut]

IIRC both of those wheels will need spacers

The only ones that will work are the ones from JT outfitters and from Land Cruiser solutions and neither are cheap.

I think it's 3.5 back spacing?

Dan, did yours fit?

Dave, if you have drums, this is less critical.

Just get some good used FJ60 wheels!

[76FJ40]

Dave, I've run the 15x8 US Wheel wagons for years and I didn't need spacers. They aren't the most durable wheel, but for the price they're disposable. I have an old set at Ryan's shop that you can have if he doesn't use them. I also have a set of 60 wheels that I'll trade for your current wheels if you'll do the tire swap.

[greytandy]

Wow, thanks Bob! I don't care what people say about you, you are a nice guy.

John: I do have drums (still). Thanks for the info!

[Blue77FJ40]

My wheels are the Summit Racing spokers that ran me about $26 each. They're 8 inch, 6 lug 5.5" spacing wheels with 3 3/4" backspacing, but they fit fine. Stock is 3.5" backspacing I believe. As Bob says they take a licking and keep wheeling.

[colangut]

Dan,

Good to know about the wheels.

I love Summit/Jegs/Northern Auto

Good stuff.

-JS

[Blue77FJ40]

John, don't forget Rock Auto. Best place I've found for decent price on sag pumps.

[colangut]

Dan,

1A Auto: Aftermarket Auto Parts, Car Parts, Replacement Auto Body Parts, Truck Parts is good too...

Dave, you can get BFG's from Costco. They order them in just a few days. The price is not remarkable, but the bottom line is. In other words, Costco has decent prices on the tire itself, but what they charge to mount, balance, etc is much cheaper overall. When it comes to tires, you have shop the bottom line not just the tire price. Sam's club also has good prices.

I have heard that they get picky about tire size these days, but I was able to get them to mount up the tires for 71 FJ40 no problem.

[Blue77FJ40]

I make note again that BFG's have weak sidewalls and have torn on pointy rocks. Interco's and MTRs are far stronger on the sidewalls. Nuf said.

If you do buy at Costco, I would take in the rims in another vehicle and have them mounted/balanced. Tell them it's for a (insert name of larger pickup, say a F250). Then you won't get a rash of crap about them not wanting to mount a tire larger than stock size. I've heard that it's happened before. Others can chime in with their experience at Costco's near you. Gaithersburg/Beltsville.

[colangut]

True. I once ruined a 35" inch BFG with a stick right through the side wall that would not have even bruised a mountain bike tire. However some of the new BFG's have beefier sidewalls.

I wish the MTR came in a 33x10x15 - perhaps there is a metric size that is similar, but likely in a 16 rim and costly. MTR's also cost a lot more. Even the MTR is not tough like a Swamper.

The 33x10.50 radial Swampers don't wear well like the BFG does so like Dan pointed out make a choice for your needs. I love these tall skinny radial swampers and have owned many sets. For Wheeling, if it does not say Super Swamper it's just an all terrain tire. For light duty wheeling, use in snow and daily driving you'll be fine with BFG or an MTR.

BFG's will last up to twice as long as Swamper radials.

Swamper radials are also pretty quiet.

Regarding Costco. I told them them the tires were for my M37 power wagon and brought them in my pickup. Good advice. I forgot about that.

[Blue77FJ40]

On Schoolbus, I had stopped on grade and noticed that a nice long root was indenting my MTR sidewall by at least 3-4 inches. Nice pointy root. As I pulled up and away from the root, I heard a loud pop as the root popped out of the sidewall. I thought the worst and when I stopped and examined the sidewall, there was not one mark. At all.

[greytandy]

Well, I guess the question is then will 33x12.5 fit? I'm not necessarily averse to a larger tire, as long as given the current constraints of my 40 they will not rub. Would I need to get smaller wheels as well?

[colangut]

With Emu, 33x12.50's are a tight fit. You'll have to cut your rear fenders and maybe trim the fronts. Even then, you'll get some rub. That is why Donny runs the 32x9.50 and I ran the 33x10.50 both clear with no issues. If you want to run a 33x12.50 your much better off with a 4" inch lift. However, you can run a shackle reversal kit in the front and gain about 1.5 in lift from that and some longer shackles in the rear. With this setup, you can clear the 33's no problem.

Dan, don't get me wrong. The MTR is a great tire, just not available in the tall and skinny size I like. All I really care about is the snow and for that a 33x10.50 rocks over a fatter 12.50. I ran the MTR on our Heep Rubicon and so my did little brother. I also ran them on my D90. Great tire. I just prefer a skinny tire for a 40 where as the D90 and Heep look cooler with the wider tire. I did not like the way they picked up gravel and threw it at my other cars on my long driveway. Just a little annoyance. Swampers and MT's did not do that. JMHO. I am considering running wider axles on my next 40 build. If I do, I'll run the wider MTR as well as they are a great all around tire.

[breckbone]

Originally Posted by greytandy

I assume these wheels would be adequate?

Cragar 3105860 - Cragar Nomad I Wheels - summitracing.com
or
U.S. Wheel 70-5855-SPEC - U.S. Wheel Custom Order Dropship Only Wheels - summitracing.com

I'm, by every means, a complete tire noob, but don't all 40s have a 6-lug pattern? The wheels above are 5-lugs...is this a major obstacle or something that is easily overcome? I've been thinking of getting new tires, as well, and have been following this thread closely. For what I want, the 33x10.5 seems to be the way to go...but, John, you said the stock rims are 6"? I'm sure I'm confusing what's being measured here, but am I right in assuming that, if I wanted 33x10.5, I'd need new wheels? I'd love to keep the stock hubcaps just because I think they look cool....

Sorry bout the thread hi-jack, Dave...I'll add another beer to the couple I already owe ya

[colangut]

Hey Craig,

Hope you been well.

Yep, all 6 lug. Probably a link to the wrong wheel. Wheel adapters are not good, just buy the right rim.

6" means 6 inches wide and 15'' inches tall.

Some are 5 inches wide? Bueller? I think pre disc brakes maybe? The wheels with the rivit's and not the welds? I'd have to ask Josh Fleming.

Anyway, a 33x10.50 fits on a stock rim and more importantly, it tucks up into the fender wells really well where was a 33x12.50 will hit the lip of the front and rear fenders. 34x9.50 and 34x10.50 swampers also fit into the fenders really well when mounted on stock rims. '

I like the idea of using a 33x10.50 for mild wheeling and a 34x10.50 swamper for off road and deep snow. Jason V. who used to live in Vienna and now is in colorado runs a 34" on stock rims and only a 2" lift. A guy here in LA does too. That's a lot of tire and a lot of ground clearance for not much lift.

[greytandy]

Originally Posted by breckbone

I'm, by every means, a complete tire noob, but don't all 40s have a 6-lug pattern? The wheels above are 5-lugs...is this a major obstacle or something that is easily overcome? I've been thinking of getting new tires, as well, and have been following this thread closely. For what I want, the 33x10.5 seems to be the way to go...but, John, you said the stock rims are 6"? I'm sure I'm confusing what's being measured here, but am I right in assuming that, if I wanted 33x10.5, I'd need new wheels? I'd love to keep the stock hubcaps just because I think they look cool....

Sorry bout the thread hi-jack, Dave...I'll add another beer to the couple I already owe ya

No problem Craig. I hijack all the time.

The Crager's are 6 lug looking at the description at the bottom. I believe the US Wheels can be made for 6 lug, but the link I provided is 5 lug. I see that John has responded to the rest.

Here's a good link for describing stuff. https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html

[Blue77FJ40]

The 33x12.5 MTRs I still have fit on my '40 with the 2" OME lift I had. It *was* a tight fit, but it worked. It was only a problem in extreme articulation and I did not trim anything. I did roll the front fenders inside a little bit, and I did open up the turn stops on the front to avoid hitting the TRE boots under tire flex, but it all worked.

The MTRs stuffed inside the rear fenderwell, but it was *close*. I could have put a longer limiter on the rear axle if I had to, but didn't need it. All that said, I have much better clearance with the 4" lift. The most I could possibly go to now is 35", but I'm in no hurry for that yet.

John, skinny is fine, never said it wasn't. For some, it's the only way to go. I've seen the TSLs in skinny, and they looked pretty aggressive, cool. It's all good.

[colangut]

Dan,

It's is very interesting how the same parts work out differently on the same truck. (Not joking, being serious) On Donny's truck, his 33's rubbed so bad (even with 1.5 and 2.5 longer Downey Rubicon shackles) that he had to take his the longer shackles off the back and swap them over to front. I doubt that BFG 33's are larger than 33 inch MTR's but maybe. To clarify, he chewed up a tire.

He did run a large bullbar and winch with his high lift mounted in front and he does have factory AC. Perhaps that contributed to the problem?

A slight difference in wheel offset could make it rub worse on his truck as I recall that at one point he had aluminum wheels.

What's that old saying? Your actual experience may vary...I think it's very important to take this in consideration when picking parts.

-Stumbaugh