anyone want to help get an exhaust stud out this weekend 3/3-4

chaka · 03-01-07, 07:21 PM

Anyone want to help a newbie try to get an exhaust stud out? I spent today trying to arc weld a nut onto a sheared off bolt, but everytime i tried to turn it, the weld broke....

If anyone is around over the weekend and wants to help... I have beer and lunch/snacks!!!!

David

John Smith · 03-01-07, 07:55 PM

Hey David, did you used to own a 60 series? If so, good to see you back with a 40. If your weld is breaking it sounds like you are not getting good penetration. After you hit the stud with a torch or welder put some parrafin on the stud threads and it should suck it into the head and make it easy for you to break it free. If you have some Kroil spray that on there or Rust Buster or Liquid Wrench or any other penetrant.

chaka · 03-01-07, 08:17 PM

I do have Kroil, but i have to say I am not even positive I am gettinga good weld... this was my first attempt.... I hit it with some blasts of Kroil today... but it started raining before I could try to weld another nut on it. The stud sheared off flush with the surface....

John FJ62 VA · 03-02-07, 09:34 AM

David.
Have you tried a bolt extractor instead of the weld method? Those things get a pretty good bite on the stud. With that, heat and Kroil you might be able to get it. I have a set you can borrow. I'm in Alexandria, but would be happy to meet you where ever your 40 is parked sometime this weekend, but Sunday afternoon would be best for me. Let me know!

Cheers,
John

Blue77FJ40 · 03-02-07, 09:56 AM

Someone with far more welding experience than me once said with a flush or below flush bolt, carefully build up a welded ring on the broken bolt to raise it above flush, then weld the nut on. The welding should help break the rust bond. Kroil, kroil, kroil after it cools.

John FJ62 VA · 03-02-07, 10:33 AM

Duh. I shoulda read more closely:

"The stud sheared off flush with the surface...."

So, I reckon that extractor won't help ya! Sorry about that!

ablefoot · 03-02-07, 11:31 AM

I have had sucess with this before, although not on exhaust studs. Before you weld your nut on, tack a washer on first, use new rods, if the rod sticks, replace it. Good luck.
Jon

chaka · 03-02-07, 01:18 PM

Going to try and use a bolt extractor today.... even though it is flush maybe i can drill in and get some purchase... I'll let ya know... if not.. anyone want some welding practice this weekend?

Blue77FJ40 · 03-02-07, 02:27 PM

I would strongly recommend against that, especially where you're drilling, into the head. I've seen too many of these gone bad. Especially if the extractor snaps off in the bolt. Once snapped, you can't drill into the extractor to remove, it's too hard. Plus, you have to drill that sucker dead on, or you're farked. If the bolt is so rusted in place that it snapped, it's a good bet that you will not get it out with an extractor. YMMV

I have had some good luck where a bolt that wasn't rusted in place was retrievable in this manner.

chaka · 03-02-07, 03:47 PM

nevermind... bolt extractor broke off... i tried to chisel it out with a punch... cracked the manifold.... here are pics of the remains...

colangut · 03-02-07, 04:02 PM

Looks like it's time for a header...

http://www.marksoffroad.net/specials/TriY-Header.html

Mark is a great vendor, kind of hard to get a hold of but a very nice guy.

I am usually a fan of the stock manifold but it might be hard to find the right one for your truck. Someone on pirate is selling a complete 74 F, maybe he'd sell just the manifold.

FYI, you usually can't mix and match intakes and exhaust manifolds. They are milled together meaning not all are the same thickness. You might be able to find one that is close, but better to get a matched pair.

On one of my 40's I had a crack like that where I was able to gind a flat spot and just use a nut and bolt instead of a stud and bolt. Kind of cheddar but it worked.

Check your DC smog laws before you get a header. Technically not legal here VA.

-Stumbaugh

Blue77FJ40 · 03-03-07, 12:32 PM

Oh, I thought you were talking about the manifold studs that go into the head, not the studs that go into the head pipe mount.

bkfj40 · 03-07-07, 07:13 AM

I think I have a manifold from a fj60, complete with both the intake and exhaust....I think that should bolt up for you. The good part about the later manifolds is that the exhaust is 3 pieces and helps avoid the warping common in the earlier ones. You will need to change the exhaust flange on your muffler to one that accepts three bolts instead of two...

or you can go to a header as mentioned....

bk

chaka · 03-11-07, 05:44 PM

BK, thanks for the offer... I am going to see if I can't find a set together... if not...I will probably take you up on it

03-01-07, 07:21 PM	#1
chaka IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Washington DC Posts: 172	anyone want to help get an exhaust stud out this weekend 3/3-4 Anyone want to help a newbie try to get an exhaust stud out? I spent today trying to arc weld a nut onto a sheared off bolt, but everytime i tried to turn it, the weld broke.... If anyone is around over the weekend and wants to help... I have beer and lunch/snacks!!!! David __________________ Chaka 1974 fj40 Washington DC

03-01-07, 07:55 PM	#2
John Smith In the garage Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Maryland TLCA# 9074 Posts: 1,798	Hey David, did you used to own a 60 series? If so, good to see you back with a 40. If your weld is breaking it sounds like you are not getting good penetration. After you hit the stud with a torch or welder put some parrafin on the stud threads and it should suck it into the head and make it easy for you to break it free. If you have some Kroil spray that on there or Rust Buster or Liquid Wrench or any other penetrant. __________________ 79 FJ40 & 78 FJ55

03-01-07, 08:17 PM	#3
chaka IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Washington DC Posts: 172	I do have Kroil, but i have to say I am not even positive I am gettinga good weld... this was my first attempt.... I hit it with some blasts of Kroil today... but it started raining before I could try to weld another nut on it. The stud sheared off flush with the surface.... __________________ Chaka 1974 fj40 Washington DC

03-02-07, 09:56 AM	#5
Blue77FJ40 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: MD Posts: 1,174	Someone with far more welding experience than me once said with a flush or below flush bolt, carefully build up a welded ring on the broken bolt to raise it above flush, then weld the nut on. The welding should help break the rust bond. Kroil, kroil, kroil after it cools. __________________ '77 FJ40: HFS, 33's, Locked and Low'd

03-02-07, 10:33 AM	#6
John FJ62 VA IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 34	Duh. I shoulda read more closely: "The stud sheared off flush with the surface...." So, I reckon that extractor won't help ya! Sorry about that! __________________ John 1989 FJ62 Alexandria, VA Jason's AWESOME 88'fj62 for sale http://forum.ih8mud.com/vehicles-tra...ml#post3719889


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03-02-07, 09:34 AM	#4
John FJ62 VA IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Jun 2005 Posts: 34	David. Have you tried a bolt extractor instead of the weld method? Those things get a pretty good bite on the stud. With that, heat and Kroil you might be able to get it. I have a set you can borrow. I'm in Alexandria, but would be happy to meet you where ever your 40 is parked sometime this weekend, but Sunday afternoon would be best for me. Let me know! Cheers, John

03-02-07, 11:31 AM	#7
ablefoot IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: New Brunswick, Canada Posts: 14	throw a washer on I have had sucess with this before, although not on exhaust studs. Before you weld your nut on, tack a washer on first, use new rods, if the rod sticks, replace it. Good luck. Jon

03-02-07, 01:18 PM	#8
chaka IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Washington DC Posts: 172	Going to try and use a bolt extractor today.... even though it is flush maybe i can drill in and get some purchase... I'll let ya know... if not.. anyone want some welding practice this weekend? __________________ Chaka 1974 fj40 Washington DC

03-02-07, 02:27 PM	#9
Blue77FJ40 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: MD Posts: 1,174	I would strongly recommend against that, especially where you're drilling, into the head. I've seen too many of these gone bad. Especially if the extractor snaps off in the bolt. Once snapped, you can't drill into the extractor to remove, it's too hard. Plus, you have to drill that sucker dead on, or you're farked. If the bolt is so rusted in place that it snapped, it's a good bet that you will not get it out with an extractor. YMMV I have had some good luck where a bolt that wasn't rusted in place was retrievable in this manner. __________________ '77 FJ40: HFS, 33's, Locked and Low'd

03-02-07, 03:47 PM	#10
chaka IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Washington DC Posts: 172	nevermind... bolt extractor broke off... i tried to chisel it out with a punch... cracked the manifold.... here are pics of the remains... Attached Images __________________ Chaka 1974 fj40 Washington DC

03-02-07, 04:02 PM	#11
colangut IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Great Falls Virginia TLCA# 3521 Posts: 881	Looks like it's time for a header... http://www.marksoffroad.net/specials/TriY-Header.html Mark is a great vendor, kind of hard to get a hold of but a very nice guy. I am usually a fan of the stock manifold but it might be hard to find the right one for your truck. Someone on pirate is selling a complete 74 F, maybe he'd sell just the manifold. FYI, you usually can't mix and match intakes and exhaust manifolds. They are milled together meaning not all are the same thickness. You might be able to find one that is close, but better to get a matched pair. On one of my 40's I had a crack like that where I was able to gind a flat spot and just use a nut and bolt instead of a stud and bolt. Kind of cheddar but it worked. Check your DC smog laws before you get a header. Technically not legal here VA. -Stumbaugh

03-03-07, 12:32 PM	#12
Blue77FJ40 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: MD Posts: 1,174	Oh, I thought you were talking about the manifold studs that go into the head, not the studs that go into the head pipe mount. __________________ '77 FJ40: HFS, 33's, Locked and Low'd Last edited by Blue77FJ40; 03-07-07 at 11:13 AM.

03-07-07, 07:13 AM	#13
bkfj40 some 6, no 4, and more 6 Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: shenandoah valley, va TLCA# 7909 Posts: 1,196	I think I have a manifold from a fj60, complete with both the intake and exhaust....I think that should bolt up for you. The good part about the later manifolds is that the exhaust is 3 pieces and helps avoid the warping common in the earlier ones. You will need to change the exhaust flange on your muffler to one that accepts three bolts instead of two... or you can go to a header as mentioned.... bk __________________ KJ4HFL 76fj40 * 77fj55 * 85fj60 * 00uzj100 * 90Hilux Crew Cab (ex)Diesel * 81hj47 * 07Tundra 5.7DC "I spend most of my money on beer, land cruisers, and women...the rest I just waste" - Curran

03-11-07, 05:44 PM	#14
chaka IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Washington DC Posts: 172	BK, thanks for the offer... I am going to see if I can't find a set together... if not...I will probably take you up on it __________________ Chaka 1974 fj40 Washington DC

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