Undercarraige waterproofing for pop up trailer

PabloVTA · 10-29-09, 03:22 PM

I want to coat the bottom of my Palomino Banshee B2 trailer with something that will keep the mud and water off of the marine grade wood and steel framing that is exposed underneath.

Especially in the wheel wells.

What should I use?

Does anyone have any experience with this product?

I'm looking for something that I could spray on, or roll on that would bond to steel, wood and fill in gaps, or at least stick to the "stuff-it" type fillers or a caulk of silicone.

How would I know if the wood already had a coating sprayed on it? I can't see any schelack, or varnish on it, or overspray, so I'm assuming it's naked.

Would any product like a POR-15 ruin the wood underneath?

thanks for the help guys.

Koffer · 10-29-09, 03:45 PM

That stuff looks like it should work well (never seen it before though) The biggest thing is since your starting with a new stuff prep time with be minimal and should get great adhesion on whatever you use.
Just dont paint everything up like the roof system lifts zerts and maybe pull off any covers and paint them off then replace when done so you can get in later of needed

toy4xfun · 10-29-09, 05:24 PM

look up durabak hey lets see Cote-l Industries i used it on my class c roof after paying over $1500 to have the roof sealed buy the dealer, and it started leaking with six months called them they said sorry that is not guaranteed. so i put durabak on it and it has not leaked.

rusty_tlc · 10-29-09, 08:30 PM

I think the biggest issue you will have is keeping the intersection of the wood and frame from opening up. The frames on these pop-ups aren't very rigid so they flex a lot. Start by filing the joints with something that will stretch and still stay attached. Urethane foam stuff is worthless, it cracks and separates. You need a HIGH quality RTV product. Probably something used in commercial sealing and waterproofing applications. I haven't found anything at the local home stores that works long term.

The sealing product you linked to looks a lot like a two part GE silicon product that I used in roofing applications back in the 80's. I think it will work fine over wood and metal.
In the wheel wells I use regular spray undercoating, the type you can buy at local auto stores. I just give the wheel wells a good wash and re-apply a couple of times a year.

You should also add some frame gussets to stiffen it up a bit, this will help with the sealing and keep the cabinets from falling apart quite so fast. Adding some corner blocks held in place with construction adhesive will also help with the cabinets.

aythya · 10-29-09, 10:49 PM

I've got a '69 Apache tent trailer on the project list. PO replaced wood with what he says is marine grade ply. A few of the popup sites I visit mention that most manufacturers don't recommend coating.

Not sure if its a ploy to sell more board or not... I'm of the opinion one more layer can't hurt provided its applied properly...

I've just got to get the cruiser in tip top running shape before I tackle this. Keep us posted as I'm sure there are others interested. sorry I can't help

Good luck!

e9999 · 10-29-09, 11:25 PM

I see you're already planning for the creek crossing at SnT, eh?

(I gotta do something about ours too...)

PabloVTA · 11-01-09, 09:07 AM

yep, that was the main concern for the short term. Driving 6 miles in salt water and beach sand has got to have some consequences I thought, so I wanted to prep as much as I could.

THe wheel wells have a plastic half fender, but it's all exposed wood underneath the whole trailer.

I bought some Rustoleum Undercoating from Lowe's. at 8 bucks a can I thought it would be an affordable test. I could always durabak over it next time maybe?

anyway..on to the photos.