[Acadia]

the lid hinged on the front works very well on my trailer. I don't have any issues accessing anything in the trailer.

[Box Rocket]

Originally Posted by Niner

put a piece of plywood on the floor when using it as a utility trailer.


On your tailgate I would use a chain with a hook like the old stepside pickup boxes did then when open you just rehook the chain to keep the tailgate flat.

Tailgate chains are in the plans. Floor will be plywood for now. Might change it to metal later but for now it's gonna be wood.

[hidesertfj40]

where did you get that hitch?

looks pretty good.

[GTKrockeTT]

Originally Posted by Box Rocket

test fitting my Thule load bars. Looks like they'll work perfectly.

Are you using the Aero Foot 400xt? If so what fit kit is being used? Also, what's the width of your trailer (where the Aero Foots are attached) and the length of those load bars?

[Box Rocket]

Originally Posted by GTKrockeTT

Are you using the Aero Foot 400xt? If so what fit kit is being used? Also, what's the width of your trailer (where the Aero Foots are attached) and the length of those load bars?

Not sure what model these are, I got them for cheap from my sis-in-law. They were on her Honda Civic. The feet are as wide as they will go and fit right where I wanted them to. The top rail is 50" wide right there.

where did you get that hitch?

looks pretty good.

The hitch is a lock-n-roll. Lock N' Roll Trailer Hitches

[fj40fax]

Originally Posted by Box Rocket

Then I got to work on the tailgate again. I went for simple with the latches. A couple of crappy welds, but probably not worth cutting and and redoing. Anyway, I welded a tab on the tub upright with a hole in it. ALso welded a small plate on the inside of the tub upright as a stop for the tailgate. Welded one more small plate with a slot cut into it to the side of the tailgate. This slot slides over the tab welded to the tub. Then its just a simple pin with a cam-ring to lock it. I could also use a padlock if I wanted. It's simple but I was excited about how solid it is. No rattles or flex at all.

Adam,

With those pins on my trailer I went and got some cable fishing leaders (like for fishing for sharks) about a foot long or so from cabelas and use them to hold the pins. They don't get lost and you don't stick them in a pocket and walk away with them. Also rust proof.

Fax

[Box Rocket]

I got a fair bit accomplished today. I decided to put the skins on the outside instead of the inside of my frame. I did this for a few reasons. 1) its a little cleaner look on the outside. 2) I am going to weld in some tiedown rings to the side of the tub uprights for securing things inside the tub. With tiedowns on the sides of the uprights they won't get in the way of sliding anything in or out of the tub. The drawback to the skins on the outside is that for utility use (hauling dirt or rocks etc) the tub frame will be a pain to work around. But for those times I need the trailer for that kind of stuff I'll just drop some plywood sides in. That way I have smooth sides and the plywood will also protect the walls of the trailer from getting banged up by rocks etc.

But first things first, I took it for it's virgin spin around the block today. So far everything checks out just fine. Pretty soon I'll get it out somewhere and test it at higher speed. But it was a nice moment to actually have it back there behind the truck. Seems just about the right height too.





Then it was time to cut the skins. Took some time using my cutoff wheel in the grinder to get the three sides cut. Then it was just a matter of getting them welded into place. HOLY CRAP it was a lot of welding to get those skins all done. They aren't fully seam welded, but many many 2-3" stitches all around. I'll follow it up with some seam sealer before I paint it. Anyway here's a few pics of test fitting the skins.





Then just getting it all welded up.







Need to do the tailgate next and then get working on the lid. Also need to figure out the fenders.

[d0ubledown]

slick work box rocket...i like the idea of the rib cage being inside too..much cleaner look. what do you have planned for the lid? flat top or raised box? is that a 140 or 185 blue box you're using?

[sseaman]

nice progress, looks good behind the 80

[Box Rocket]

Originally Posted by d0ubledown

slick work box rocket...i like the idea of the rib cage being inside too..much cleaner look. what do you have planned for the lid? flat top or raised box? is that a 140 or 185 blue box you're using?

Pretty sure the lid will just be flat. I'm going to build a frame out of 1" square tube and put a skin on it. Welder is a 220V Miller 175.

[jaysdead40]

Dang, those rims look better on your trailer than they ever looked on my 80.

Jay

[Box Rocket]

Originally Posted by jaysdead40

Dang, those rims look better on your trailer than they ever looked on my 80.

Jay

Thanks again for bringing them down! Seriously appreciate it Jay.

[REZARF]

Originally Posted by Box Rocket

Ok, another request for suggestions. Since I'm getting close to putting the skins on I've been debating whether to keep them on the inside like I originally planned or to put them on the outside. Moving them to the outside has a few positive aspects. One is it will look "cleaner" on the outside with a smooth skin versus seeing the exposed framework. Also, it gives me some ridges on the inside that can be used as partitions. I have thought about making it so I could just drop a peice of plywood down between two of the uprights and create a smaller compartment in case I wanted to separate types of gear etc. Does that makes sense?

The downside to skins on the outside is not having a smooth surface on the inside for sliding things in and out. Also I will surely be using the trailer for stuff around the house from time to time and wonder if I will be annoyed by the "ribs" down the sides if I'm unloading a load of dirt etc.

I'm leaning toward putting up with the annoyance of the "ribs" on the inside for a cleaner look and for the ease of creating partitions.

Any have opinions?

I think you are thinking correctly here. I don't have any easy way to partition or tie down crap in the trailer. I wish I had added something like that before paint. I will bolt in some tie downs after the kitchen is done.

Originally Posted by Box Rocket

I've been thinking about this more and more and I am leaning toward puting the hinge on the front like yours. I was worried about it opening far enough to be able to comfortably get to things at the front of the trailer but obviously you can if it's setup like yours. Probably easier than trying to reach across from the side, especially if you're kinda short like me (5'9") and more importantly my wife (5'3").

Thanks for that pic.

Yup, after debating and debating and debating I mounted the hinge up front as well. Here is what made me decide. Stand by your tire and reach for the opposite side... its just not going to happen. Now, strap a fuel can, propane tank... whatever and your sides are full of crap putting you another 6-12" away from the far side of the trailer.

I would mount from the front... no questions.

[Box Rocket]

Thanks for the input Drew. I think I'm happy with the decision for the skins on the outside. My plan is to weld a couple nuts into the uprights on each side. Then I can bolt in some plywood or other material for the inner skins when I need it. I also picked up a box of weld on safety chain loops. Of course with the name they are designed as a loop for safety chains but I will be using them for the tiedown loops on the frame and uprights in side the box. I have a box of 24 of them so it should give me ample tie down spots inside the box.

Since I don't have a picture of them this is the best I could do. They are shaped like this (see pic) and are 3/8" solid bar stock.



I also found some prefabbed fenders. I may end up building some fenders at a later date but for now I think these will work. I had planned on using some flattop "jeep style" fenders but the widest I could find was 10" and that wasn't going to be quite enough. I found some 11" wide round fenders which actually measure slightly wider than 11". Just holding them up to the trailer they cover almost the entire tire with just a little bit of the tire shoulder exposed. I think they will work out just fine but we'll see how it goes.

I've had a busy week and haven't been able to work on it at all since Monday. Hoping to have a productive day on it tomorrow.

[Box Rocket]

Small update. Had a busy week and weekend with other stuff and haven't made as much progress as I'd like lately. But last night I got the tailgate skinned up and the fenders mounted and trimmmed. These are 11" wide pre-fabbed fenders that I'm going to try for a while. They don't quite cover the whole tire but pretty much everything but the shoulder of the tire. Maybe not ideal but I'm going to use it this way until I can build some different ones. Also I included a picture of the tiedown loops I'm using inside the tub. 22 tiedown spots around the inside of the tub using these and there may be more in the floor when I'm done but this might be plenty.

[fj40fax]

It looks like if you use a 2x? floor you could avoid your tailgate dropping dilema. It looks really good. I think the skins on the outside will also help keep water from getting between the frame and the panels. Where did you source the fenders?

[Box Rocket]

I'm not to worried about the floor/tailgate issue. Most of the time I'm fine (if not prefer) to have the tailgate drop all the way down. Will make it much easier to reach into the trailer from the back. When I do want the tailgate level for a work surface or something I still plan on having some chain or cable that can quickly hook in place to limit the gate drop.

I found those fenders at State Trailer Supply on Redwood Rd.

[REZARF]

Man that trailer is like McDonalds for me... I'm LOVIN' IT!

Looks good man, the tie downs are sweet.

[73fj]

COOL project, really nice. Your garage is nicer than my house dude! I am continually amazed by the projects that come out of peoples minds.

[Box Rocket]

So, is SimpleGreen an adequate cleaner/degreaser that I can use prior to hitting it with some primer? Or does is leave oily residue that is going to cause the paint to fish-eye? Just trying to figure out if I need to go get some other degreaser, or just use what I've got. Lots of SimpleGreen and lots of brake cleaner.

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Non chlorinated brake cleaner will work fine, but if you're willing to spend that much on a few cans, you'd probably be better off just getting a large can of prepsol from your local paint supplier


Trailer looks great btw

[Box Rocket]

Originally Posted by 98 SNAKE EATER

Non chlorinated brake cleaner will work fine, but if you're willing to spend that much on a few cans, you'd probably be better off just getting a large can of prepsol from your local paint supplier


Trailer looks great btw

Thanks. good suggestion. So, no-go on the SimpleGreen?

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I'm not sure what effects SG will have on paint, but I do know SG's instructions calls for a heavy final rinse with water (not sumthin I'd want to do to before shooting bare metal)

Prepsol and brake cleaner will degrease and dry quickly without leaving deteriorating moisture on the surface

[Box Rocket]

I've been thinking again, yep scary. So my plan has been to just run with a plywood floor for now. I'm rethinking that. I still have a sheet of 16ga that i had planned to use for my lid, but the more I think about it, it is making more sense to just weld that in as the floor. I'd have to pick up another sheet for my lid which will set me back a little but that's probably not that big of a deal.

Also, I think I'm going to try that Raptor liner to line the tub, fenders and underside. Anyone that's used it have any feedback?

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Originally Posted by Box Rocket

Also, I think I'm going to try that Raptor liner to line the tub, fenders and underside. Anyone that's used it have any feedback?

We just sprayed a utility truck for Disney using Raptor and it came out pretty good

Took a bit longer than the usual bedliner to cure though (everyone kept poking at it hours after it was sprayed and left some finerprints)

I'll be using the tintable version to spray my Kei truck in a few weeks

[REZARF]

Adam, buy a gallon of Acetone and some blue gloves and you will knock it out quick!

[Box Rocket]

Drew, I've been meaning to ask you about the floor in your trailer. I'm thinking of just welding in my extra sheet of 16ga. but I'm worried it might be very loud. How is yours working out?

[Box Rocket]

Well, maybe I'll reget it later on but what's done is done. I welded in the steel floor yesterday. I'm planning on use bed liner inside the tub as well as underneath. Hopefully it won't be too noisy but I gotta think, my flatbed minitruck had a steel deck and the floor in my reskinned 40 was the same 16ga. that was lined both sides and it wasn't noisy. I may get some dents in the steel that I wouldn't get with a wood floor but o well.

So after cutting the sheet to size I needed to "clearance" it a little around the welds for the tub frame and the tie downs.

Here's a couple pics where you can see where I did that.





All fitted and in place.





Stitching it to the frame. Pretty much did this around all corners.



only other thing I did was cut down a ubolt to use as a tongue handle.

[davegonz]

The trailer looks good as-is. Just clear coat it

[Box Rocket]

eh....if I was really proud of all my welds, then maybe. I need all the help I can get to cover up mistakes.