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Old 02-09-09, 08:25 AM   #31 (permalink)
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WOW Adam, great progress.

I would think 48" would be plenty long for the tongue, you can always add a rack in front of the box if you feel it is to long.

I would think you would need someway to keep rust from starting behind the uprights and skin. I would also prime behind the uprights first.

I really like the look of your top rail, the wide and thin opposed the the square that I have on mine.


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Old 02-09-09, 09:44 AM   #32 (permalink)
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Thanks. My problem is that if I prime the skins and uprights first, then I'm pretty much forced to use rivets or screws since welding the skins on would just burn off the primer. I also worry a little about vibration and those overlapping surfaces rubbing against each other and removing the primer/paint over time.

I've even been contemplated the idea of cuttings the sheet metal into squares and just welding in the openings. The downside there is not having a smooth inner wall, although I could probably get it pretty close.

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Old 02-09-09, 10:38 AM   #33 (permalink)
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I wouldn't seam weld it at all. I would pop some holes in the skin and rosette weld them to the uprights. Sort of like large spot welds done with a MIG.

If you use something like POR-15 to paint it then it'll seal the overlaps and even some small gaps.

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Old 02-09-09, 11:58 AM   #34 (permalink)
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I wouldn't seam weld it at all. I would pop some holes in the skin and rosette weld them to the uprights. Sort of like large spot welds done with a MIG.

If you use something like POR-15 to paint it then it'll seal the overlaps and even some small gaps.
Not a bad idea at all. Then maybe just use some seam sealer along unwelded edges. Hmmm. Don't think I want to use POR-15. I know it works, I just don't like using the stuff.

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Old 02-09-09, 12:56 PM   #35 (permalink)
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I wouldn't seam weld it at all. I would pop some holes in the skin and rosette weld them to the uprights. Sort of like large spot welds done with a MIG.

If you use something like POR-15 to paint it then it'll seal the overlaps and even some small gaps.
I like this idea. Minimal rust potential and it would look pretty slick from both sides.

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Old 02-09-09, 10:12 PM   #36 (permalink)
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I guess I just had some bad mojo tonight. Didn't get as much done as I'd hoped. I worked on the tailgate. Smashed the crap out of my finger. Then a few minutes later while I was cutting with my cutoff wheel on my grinder I started feeling a bit warm in my jibblies and I glanced down and sho-nuf it's on fire! Fortunately the only casualty was my jeans.



Then I ran out of gas on the welder. So between the smashed finger, burning my crotch and running out of gas, I took that as I sign that I was done for the night.

Anyway, here's a couple of the tailgate all framed up.




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Old 02-09-09, 11:31 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Dude, don't burn off your marbles... that is like rule #1 in making a homemade trailer.

Glad your safe. As for skinning the trailer I used rivets and sealed the seams and used Sika Flex to bond the stuff on. It has held up great!

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Old 02-10-09, 12:07 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Dude, don't burn off your marbles... that is like rule #1 in making a homemade trailer.

Glad your safe. As for skinning the trailer I used rivets and sealed the seams and used Sika Flex to bond the stuff on. It has held up great!
Thanks, I'll remember not to light my marbles on fire next time. Could've saved a little money on my vasectomy though.

I think I've decided that I'll be welding the skins on. I'm going to weld all the outer edge of the skins and then do some little rosette welds on the uprights. Then I'll use some 3M seal sealer on all the exterior seams. Should be ok with that.

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Old 02-10-09, 09:19 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Adam, i have a pair of pants that look the same, been there done that.

Rule #2 don't wear tennis shoes while welding or you may end up with 3rd degree burns on top of your foot.

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Old 02-10-09, 09:44 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Well I will admit a minor screwup as part of my disastrous evening of work last night. As I worked on the tailgate, my primary thought was to keep the hinge flanges hidden when the tailgate is closed. Well I did that. But what I also did, that I was too dumb to think about was to make it so that if I wanted to open the tailgate and be able to use it like a table or work surface, the tailgate sticks up above the floor level the thickness of the gate. So I don't have a flat surface from the floor all the way across the open tailgate. Not a huge deal but I may have to just let the tailgate drop open all the way like you see in the pictures.

One option is that I can just put a hook on the end of the limiting chains for the tailgate. So if I do want have the tailgate as a table or work surface I can just hook up the chain. Or unhook the chain and just let the tailgate drop if I need to slide things in and out of the tub and don't want to bump into the edge of the tailgate.

Oh well. Live and learn.

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Old 02-11-09, 12:21 PM   #41 (permalink)
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I think you are on the right track. Gotta work with what you've got. I have the same problem if it makes you feel any better.

I think a short cable that keeps it where you want for a usable surface is a great idea.

Also, you will be just fine welding up the sides. I probably should have done that too.

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Old 02-11-09, 05:04 PM   #42 (permalink)
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The trailers missing something. Oh yeah, a set of 80 wheels. See ya tomorrow.

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Old 02-12-09, 03:02 PM   #43 (permalink)
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I've never seen a garage that ......empty and clean before! Must be an alien or something! Nice looking build so far..Watch out for hot embers into the socks as well! Leaves a heck of a mark!!

Cheers!

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Old 02-12-09, 03:28 PM   #44 (permalink)
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I've never seen a garage that ......empty and clean before! Must be an alien or something! Nice looking build so far..Watch out for hot embers into the socks as well! Leaves a heck of a mark!!

Cheers!
Done that one before too. I've got a few burn marks on my writst right now for tacking stuff together wearing my Mechanix gloves instead of welding gloves. Problem is I'm using CO2 as sheilding gas and I'm getting some splatter. Oh well.

Jaysdead40 is bringing my 80 wheels down from Idaho tonight (hope he makes it safe in the storm) so I'll try to get the 285's mounted up this weekend. Might get the tongue welded up too. Not sure about my plan of attack just yet on the skins. Maybe a few things to do before they go on. We'll see how it goes.

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Old 02-12-09, 04:03 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Uh, there's a storm? We've got blue skies and sunshine here. I had the 285's pulled off at noon and the cruisers already loaded.

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Old 02-12-09, 04:09 PM   #46 (permalink)
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the storm has all been south of Salt Lake City so you should be just fine. It was supposed to move north but really hasn't yet. I'm still sitting in my office in downtown SLC and no snow falling so you should be good.

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Old 02-13-09, 11:06 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Ok I wasnt the only one thinking that,
ken

[QUOTE=1Fine40;4152175]I've never seen a garage that ......empty and clean before! Must be an alien or something! Nice looking build so far.

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Old 02-13-09, 01:01 PM   #48 (permalink)
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I need another suggestion. I have been wanting to have a side opening lid, but I'm realizing I could have a problem with where to mount a gas strut along the back because of the tailgate. Is there a good way to handle this without having to add a top rail across the back in the tailgate opening?

Or will I need to have the hinge for the lid on the front of the box? Obviously that will work fine, but it sure seems easier to get to stuff inside the trailer by reaching in from the side.

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Old 02-13-09, 01:46 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Could you mount the strut on the opposite side of the bed so that the struts look like an X when open? You can mount/size the strut near the tailgate to be close to the top edge of the bed so when you close the lid, it doesn't interfere too much when getting stuff out of the tailgate.

You could also mount it on the right hand wall of the tub.
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Old 02-13-09, 02:56 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I would put them both on the far side. That way they exert equal force on the lid and aren't trying to warp it.

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Old 02-13-09, 05:57 PM   #51 (permalink)
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I would put them both on the far side. That way they exert equal force on the lid and aren't trying to warp it.
That's probably what I'll have to do. Shouldn't create too much of a problem getting things in or out.

On a brighter note. Jay dropped off the 80 wheels last night, so I'll be mounting up the 285s tomorrow and the postman brought a much anticipated peice of the puzzle today.


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Old 02-13-09, 06:37 PM   #52 (permalink)
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it's so shiny

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Old 02-14-09, 11:28 PM   #53 (permalink)
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I got a bit more done today. After a good hour shovelling snow off the driveway and the walks, I headed over to Discount Tire to get the 285's mounted and balanced on the 80 wheels I got from jaysdead40. I've been getting my tires from Discount for quite a while now for all my cars and even though it wouldn't have cost me much for the mounting and balancing, they did it for free. Was a nice gesture and as small as it was, it will keep me coming back. But the 285's look much better on there.



Then I got to working on the tongue. I cut out the front and bottom of the front framerail and slide the tongue into the opening so that I had three surfaces to weld to along the sides and bottom. Seemed like a better idea than just butt welding it to the frame.



Then I welded in another section between the front framerail and the first crossmember. At the seam between the tongue and this new peice (on the underside) I welded another 6" plate to span the seam and tie the tongue into the center tube in the frame.



Test fitting one of my coolers.


Then I got to work on the tailgate again. I went for simple with the latches. A couple of crappy welds, but probably not worth cutting and and redoing. Anyway, I welded a tab on the tub upright with a hole in it. ALso welded a small plate on the inside of the tub upright as a stop for the tailgate. Welded one more small plate with a slot cut into it to the side of the tailgate. This slot slides over the tab welded to the tub. Then its just a simple pin with a cam-ring to lock it. I could also use a padlock if I wanted. It's simple but I was excited about how solid it is. No rattles or flex at all.





I capped those holes on the tub rails also but forgot to take any pictures of that. I still need to drill the hole in the tongue for the hitch pin but I pulled the truck in to see how everyting was lining up. Everything appears to be just about right. I have Monday off so hopefully I can maybe get the skins on it.




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Old 02-15-09, 04:35 AM   #54 (permalink)
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nice work so far, keep it up.
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Old 02-15-09, 11:33 AM   #55 (permalink)
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Old 02-15-09, 01:04 PM   #56 (permalink)
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nice simple gate lock

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Old 02-15-09, 04:38 PM   #57 (permalink)
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i hinged mine from the front and it makes getting in either side a breeze
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Old 02-15-09, 04:56 PM   #58 (permalink)
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i hinged mine from the front and it makes getting in either side a breeze
I've been thinking about this more and more and I am leaning toward puting the hinge on the front like yours. I was worried about it opening far enough to be able to comfortably get to things at the front of the trailer but obviously you can if it's setup like yours. Probably easier than trying to reach across from the side, especially if you're kinda short like me (5'9") and more importantly my wife (5'3").

Thanks for that pic.

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Old 02-15-09, 05:55 PM   #59 (permalink)
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Ok, another request for suggestions. Since I'm getting close to putting the skins on I've been debating whether to keep them on the inside like I originally planned or to put them on the outside. Moving them to the outside has a few positive aspects. One is it will look "cleaner" on the outside with a smooth skin versus seeing the exposed framework. Also, it gives me some ridges on the inside that can be used as partitions. I have thought about making it so I could just drop a peice of plywood down between two of the uprights and create a smaller compartment in case I wanted to separate types of gear etc. Does that makes sense?

The downside to skins on the outside is not having a smooth surface on the inside for sliding things in and out. Also I will surely be using the trailer for stuff around the house from time to time and wonder if I will be annoyed by the "ribs" down the sides if I'm unloading a load of dirt etc.

I'm leaning toward putting up with the annoyance of the "ribs" on the inside for a cleaner look and for the ease of creating partitions.

Any have opinions?

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Old 02-15-09, 07:01 PM   #60 (permalink)
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put a piece of plywood on the floor when using it as a utility trailer.


On your tailgate I would use a chain with a hook like the old stepside pickup boxes did then when open you just rehook the chain to keep the tailgate flat.

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