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02-09-09, 08:25 AM
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#31 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,570
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WOW Adam, great progress.
I would think 48" would be plenty long for the tongue, you can always add a rack in front of the box if you feel it is to long.
I would think you would need someway to keep rust from starting behind the uprights and skin. I would also prime behind the uprights first.
I really like the look of your top rail, the wide and thin opposed the the square that I have on mine.
__________________
98 4runner 150k
04 Sequoia 85k 4x4 Limited
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02-09-09, 09:44 AM
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#32 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
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Thanks. My problem is that if I prime the skins and uprights first, then I'm pretty much forced to use rivets or screws since welding the skins on would just burn off the primer. I also worry a little about vibration and those overlapping surfaces rubbing against each other and removing the primer/paint over time.
I've even been contemplated the idea of cuttings the sheet metal into squares and just welding in the openings. The downside there is not having a smooth inner wall, although I could probably get it pretty close.
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02-09-09, 10:38 AM
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#33 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: So. CA
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I wouldn't seam weld it at all. I would pop some holes in the skin and rosette weld them to the uprights. Sort of like large spot welds done with a MIG.
If you use something like POR-15 to paint it then it'll seal the overlaps and even some small gaps.
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My opinion is worth what you paid me for it.
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02-09-09, 11:58 AM
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#34 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntsqd
I wouldn't seam weld it at all. I would pop some holes in the skin and rosette weld them to the uprights. Sort of like large spot welds done with a MIG.
If you use something like POR-15 to paint it then it'll seal the overlaps and even some small gaps.
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Not a bad idea at all. Then maybe just use some seam sealer along unwelded edges. Hmmm. Don't think I want to use POR-15. I know it works, I just don't like using the stuff.
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02-09-09, 12:56 PM
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#35 (permalink)
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Rum Runnin'
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Usually Upstate NY
Posts: 5,270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntsqd
I wouldn't seam weld it at all. I would pop some holes in the skin and rosette weld them to the uprights. Sort of like large spot welds done with a MIG.
If you use something like POR-15 to paint it then it'll seal the overlaps and even some small gaps.
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I like this idea. Minimal rust potential and it would look pretty slick from both sides.
__________________
Johnny C
1987 FJ60 - MoonShine - SROR Front Bumper, H55f, 2-low, SOA, 62+AAL fronts w/ Ironman rears, 36's, FF w/ 4.11's, Round Eyes, KMR's Tailgate Hatch, desmog + headers, Storage / Sleeping system, etc. -- DD w/242k
Waiting to be installed:
York 210 OBA, shocks, lots of little things....
1967 Stevens Mfg. Co M416 - almost RUST FREE!!!
Previous Rig:
1987 FJ60 - Big Red
ΦΚΤ - Fall 06
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02-09-09, 10:12 PM
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#36 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
Posts: 1,154
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I guess I just had some bad mojo tonight. Didn't get as much done as I'd hoped. I worked on the tailgate. Smashed the crap out of my finger. Then a few minutes later while I was cutting with my cutoff wheel on my grinder I started feeling a bit warm in my jibblies and I glanced down and sho-nuf it's on fire!  Fortunately the only casualty was my jeans.
Then I ran out of gas on the welder. So between the smashed finger, burning my crotch and running out of gas, I took that as I sign that I was done for the night.
Anyway, here's a couple of the tailgate all framed up.
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02-09-09, 11:31 PM
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#37 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Louisville, CO
Posts: 2,953
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Dude, don't burn off your marbles... that is like rule #1 in making a homemade trailer.
Glad your safe. As for skinning the trailer I used rivets and sealed the seams and used Sika Flex to bond the stuff on. It has held up great!
__________________
Drew F.
Rising Sun 4x4 Club
76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running.
Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds...
My camping trailer build up thread.
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02-10-09, 12:07 AM
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#38 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REZARF
Dude, don't burn off your marbles... that is like rule #1 in making a homemade trailer.
Glad your safe. As for skinning the trailer I used rivets and sealed the seams and used Sika Flex to bond the stuff on. It has held up great!
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Thanks, I'll remember not to light my marbles on fire next time. Could've saved a little money on my vasectomy though.
I think I've decided that I'll be welding the skins on. I'm going to weld all the outer edge of the skins and then do some little rosette welds on the uprights. Then I'll use some 3M seal sealer on all the exterior seams. Should be ok with that.
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02-10-09, 09:19 AM
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#39 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Nashville, TN
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Adam, i have a pair of pants that look the same, been there done that.
Rule #2 don't wear tennis shoes while welding or you may end up with 3rd degree burns on top of your foot.
__________________
98 4runner 150k
04 Sequoia 85k 4x4 Limited
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02-10-09, 09:44 AM
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#40 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
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Well I will admit a minor screwup as part of my disastrous evening of work last night. As I worked on the tailgate, my primary thought was to keep the hinge flanges hidden when the tailgate is closed. Well I did that. But what I also did, that I was too dumb to think about was to make it so that if I wanted to open the tailgate and be able to use it like a table or work surface, the tailgate sticks up above the floor level the thickness of the gate. So I don't have a flat surface from the floor all the way across the open tailgate. Not a huge deal but I may have to just let the tailgate drop open all the way like you see in the pictures.
One option is that I can just put a hook on the end of the limiting chains for the tailgate. So if I do want have the tailgate as a table or work surface I can just hook up the chain. Or unhook the chain and just let the tailgate drop if I need to slide things in and out of the tub and don't want to bump into the edge of the tailgate.
Oh well. Live and learn.
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02-11-09, 12:21 PM
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#41 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Louisville, CO
Posts: 2,953
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I think you are on the right track. Gotta work with what you've got. I have the same problem if it makes you feel any better.
I think a short cable that keeps it where you want for a usable surface is a great idea.
Also, you will be just fine welding up the sides. I probably should have done that too.
__________________
Drew F.
Rising Sun 4x4 Club
76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running.
Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds...
My camping trailer build up thread.
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02-11-09, 05:04 PM
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#42 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Buttcrack of Idaho
Posts: 254
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Adam
The trailers missing something. Oh yeah, a set of 80 wheels. See ya tomorrow.
Jay
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"I wasn't trying to break it"
'01 100 - Way to Pretty & Way to Stock
'93 80 - "Tired, Ugly, and Totaled"
'71 40 - "Resting in Pieces"
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02-12-09, 03:02 PM
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#43 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wild Idaho
Posts: 549
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I've never seen a garage that ......empty and clean before! Must be an alien or something! Nice looking build so far..Watch out for hot embers into the socks as well! Leaves a heck of a mark!!
Cheers!
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78' FJ40,SBC,35's,SR,PS,Lifted SUA,Orion#2, Aussie rr, RDB.
"No electrons were harmed for this post, just re-directed a tad"
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02-12-09, 03:28 PM
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#44 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Fine40
I've never seen a garage that ......empty and clean before! Must be an alien or something! Nice looking build so far..Watch out for hot embers into the socks as well! Leaves a heck of a mark!!
Cheers!
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Done that one before too. I've got a few burn marks on my writst right now for tacking stuff together wearing my Mechanix gloves instead of welding gloves. Problem is I'm using CO2 as sheilding gas and I'm getting some splatter. Oh well.
Jaysdead40 is bringing my 80 wheels down from Idaho tonight (hope he makes it safe in the storm) so I'll try to get the 285's mounted up this weekend. Might get the tongue welded up too. Not sure about my plan of attack just yet on the skins. Maybe a few things to do before they go on. We'll see how it goes.
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02-12-09, 04:03 PM
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#45 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Buttcrack of Idaho
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Uh, there's a storm? We've got blue skies and sunshine here. I had the 285's pulled off at noon and the cruisers already loaded.
Jay
__________________
"I wasn't trying to break it"
'01 100 - Way to Pretty & Way to Stock
'93 80 - "Tired, Ugly, and Totaled"
'71 40 - "Resting in Pieces"
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02-12-09, 04:09 PM
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#46 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
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the storm has all been south of Salt Lake City so you should be just fine. It was supposed to move north but really hasn't yet. I'm still sitting in my office in downtown SLC and no snow falling so you should be good.
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02-13-09, 11:06 AM
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#47 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Ione CA
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Ok I wasnt the only one thinking that,
ken
[QUOTE=1Fine40;4152175]I've never seen a garage that ......empty and clean before! Must be an alien or something! Nice looking build so far.
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Now with added geek KI6JEO
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02-13-09, 01:01 PM
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#48 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
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I need another suggestion. I have been wanting to have a side opening lid, but I'm realizing I could have a problem with where to mount a gas strut along the back because of the tailgate. Is there a good way to handle this without having to add a top rail across the back in the tailgate opening?
Or will I need to have the hinge for the lid on the front of the box? Obviously that will work fine, but it sure seems easier to get to stuff inside the trailer by reaching in from the side.
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02-13-09, 01:46 PM
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#49 (permalink)
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Keeping it Weird
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,899
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Could you mount the strut on the opposite side of the bed so that the struts look like an X when open? You can mount/size the strut near the tailgate to be close to the top edge of the bed so when you close the lid, it doesn't interfere too much when getting stuff out of the tailgate.
You could also mount it on the right hand wall of the tub.
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David Gonzalez
__________________________________________________
"Penny" Y2K Desert Bronze 100-series 33" BFG A/T's, TJM T3 front bumper, Warn M8k w/ X-Line,Hella 4000 with HID conversion, OME Heavy Lift, Kenwood DNX-7100, Front Runner Wind Cheetah rack, 4x4Labs rear bumper
Ghosts:1993 FZJ80 White, 1993 FZJ80 Green, 1991 4BTJ62
Austin Cruiserhead
Last edited by davegonz; 02-13-09 at 01:52 PM.
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02-13-09, 02:56 PM
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#50 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: So. CA
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I would put them both on the far side. That way they exert equal force on the lid and aren't trying to warp it.
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My opinion is worth what you paid me for it.
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02-13-09, 05:57 PM
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#51 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntsqd
I would put them both on the far side. That way they exert equal force on the lid and aren't trying to warp it.
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That's probably what I'll have to do. Shouldn't create too much of a problem getting things in or out.
On a brighter note. Jay dropped off the 80 wheels last night, so I'll be mounting up the 285s tomorrow and the postman brought a much anticipated peice of the puzzle today.
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02-13-09, 06:37 PM
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#52 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Nashville, TN
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it's so shiny
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98 4runner 150k
04 Sequoia 85k 4x4 Limited
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02-14-09, 11:28 PM
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#53 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
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I got a bit more done today. After a good hour shovelling snow off the driveway and the walks, I headed over to Discount Tire to get the 285's mounted and balanced on the 80 wheels I got from jaysdead40. I've been getting my tires from Discount for quite a while now for all my cars and even though it wouldn't have cost me much for the mounting and balancing, they did it for free. Was a nice gesture and as small as it was, it will keep me coming back. But the 285's look much better on there.
Then I got to working on the tongue. I cut out the front and bottom of the front framerail and slide the tongue into the opening so that I had three surfaces to weld to along the sides and bottom. Seemed like a better idea than just butt welding it to the frame.
Then I welded in another section between the front framerail and the first crossmember. At the seam between the tongue and this new peice (on the underside) I welded another 6" plate to span the seam and tie the tongue into the center tube in the frame.
Test fitting one of my coolers.
Then I got to work on the tailgate again. I went for simple with the latches. A couple of crappy welds, but probably not worth cutting and and redoing. Anyway, I welded a tab on the tub upright with a hole in it. ALso welded a small plate on the inside of the tub upright as a stop for the tailgate. Welded one more small plate with a slot cut into it to the side of the tailgate. This slot slides over the tab welded to the tub. Then its just a simple pin with a cam-ring to lock it. I could also use a padlock if I wanted. It's simple but I was excited about how solid it is. No rattles or flex at all.
I capped those holes on the tub rails also but forgot to take any pictures of that. I still need to drill the hole in the tongue for the hitch pin but I pulled the truck in to see how everyting was lining up. Everything appears to be just about right. I have Monday off so hopefully I can maybe get the skins on it.
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02-15-09, 04:35 AM
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#54 (permalink)
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Forum Regular
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 45
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nice work so far, keep it up.
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02-15-09, 11:33 AM
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#55 (permalink)
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Rum Runnin'
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Usually Upstate NY
Posts: 5,270
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She's a beauty!
__________________
Johnny C
1987 FJ60 - MoonShine - SROR Front Bumper, H55f, 2-low, SOA, 62+AAL fronts w/ Ironman rears, 36's, FF w/ 4.11's, Round Eyes, KMR's Tailgate Hatch, desmog + headers, Storage / Sleeping system, etc. -- DD w/242k
Waiting to be installed:
York 210 OBA, shocks, lots of little things....
1967 Stevens Mfg. Co M416 - almost RUST FREE!!!
Previous Rig:
1987 FJ60 - Big Red
ΦΚΤ - Fall 06
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02-15-09, 01:04 PM
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#56 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 1,570
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nice simple gate lock
__________________
98 4runner 150k
04 Sequoia 85k 4x4 Limited
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02-15-09, 04:38 PM
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#57 (permalink)
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Forum Lifer
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: bellingham wa/prescott az
Posts: 2,663
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i hinged mine from the front and it makes getting in either side a breeze
__________________
1996 LX450 ARB, dual batteries, remote starter, 760 watt sub woofer, in dash CB, Custom switch pannel, cut and turn mod, magnaflow, custom rear bumper, rock lights, 2.5 lift, snorkle. clear side lights, CSC alum spacers, 33s, and more to come.
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02-15-09, 04:56 PM
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#58 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
Posts: 1,154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lx450landcruiser
i hinged mine from the front and it makes getting in either side a breeze
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I've been thinking about this more and more and I am leaning toward puting the hinge on the front like yours. I was worried about it opening far enough to be able to comfortably get to things at the front of the trailer but obviously you can if it's setup like yours. Probably easier than trying to reach across from the side, especially if you're kinda short like me (5'9") and more importantly my wife (5'3").
Thanks for that pic.
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02-15-09, 05:55 PM
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#59 (permalink)
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Site Addict
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Syracuse, Utah
Posts: 1,154
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Ok, another request for suggestions. Since I'm getting close to putting the skins on I've been debating whether to keep them on the inside like I originally planned or to put them on the outside. Moving them to the outside has a few positive aspects. One is it will look "cleaner" on the outside with a smooth skin versus seeing the exposed framework. Also, it gives me some ridges on the inside that can be used as partitions. I have thought about making it so I could just drop a peice of plywood down between two of the uprights and create a smaller compartment in case I wanted to separate types of gear etc. Does that makes sense?
The downside to skins on the outside is not having a smooth surface on the inside for sliding things in and out. Also I will surely be using the trailer for stuff around the house from time to time and wonder if I will be annoyed by the "ribs" down the sides if I'm unloading a load of dirt etc.
I'm leaning toward putting up with the annoyance of the "ribs" on the inside for a cleaner look and for the ease of creating partitions.
Any have opinions?
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02-15-09, 07:01 PM
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#60 (permalink)
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250+ Club
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Readfield, WI
Posts: 810
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put a piece of plywood on the floor when using it as a utility trailer.
On your tailgate I would use a chain with a hook like the old stepside pickup boxes did then when open you just rehook the chain to keep the tailgate flat.
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Chris Hannis, TLCA #13372
2008 FJ Cruiser, Bud Built 5, Warn Bull Bar, 9.5TI, OME Heavies all around.
1971 FJ 40, 400 SBC, th400, Dana 20 Tcase, F/R Dana 44's, Front 4 link, rear spring over
A bunch of stuff thats for sale
1984 Heep CJ7 35's ready to go
Must sell $18k invested
Starting @$9k OBO
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