Painting M416..what to do about "pitting"

airlaird · 05-04-08, 12:11 PM

Guys obviously, these old trailers have rust etc. I will be getting mine sandlblasted soon. The problem I foresee is I doubt the sandblasting will get rid of "pitting" in the surface of the metal. Is there any option after sandblasting, to get the trailer coated with a thick primer to to fill in the pitting...so it will look better after it's painted? Any suggestion on what to use to fill in these little crevaces in the bare metal...prior to painting??
airlaird

REZARF · 05-04-08, 10:57 PM

If the pitting is visible to the naked eye, then you will need to use a plastic filler to get a smooth finish. It would take a lot of primer to fill in anything more than a scuff in the metal. Don't be afraid of a little filler, just don't go crazy with it.

Rezarf <><

Exiled · 05-04-08, 11:27 PM

Mine only had pitting on the inside. I sandblasted, primed, painted, and you could still see a bit of pitting. It wasn't a big deal for me, I didn't plan on this as a restoration. A few years later I lined the inside of the trailer and that took care of the evidence.

kilo · 05-05-08, 08:57 AM

I would think that a POWDER coat would hide it better than a regular paint. I have it mainly on the frame and some on the inside of the bed. My plan is to powder coat everything and have TOFF liners spray the inside.

REZARF · 05-05-08, 04:14 PM

Powder will cover some pitting but not all, if it is deeper than 1mm it is going to need filler to be smooth.

Just my .02, but hey, it is a trailer, I'd just paint it!

cbmontgo · 05-05-08, 05:27 PM

I'd suggest just painting it. The pitting is not noticeable (unless it is REALLY bad), and the trailer will serve its purpose. Even a lot of the high-dollar restored ones on Ebay have some pitting if you look closely enough.

Snook · 05-09-08, 04:22 PM

Pitting is normal. Big dents is filled with filler to prevent water pooling if needed.

KingBeeIII · 05-09-08, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exiled

Mine only had pitting on the inside. I sandblasted, primed, painted, and you could still see a bit of pitting. It wasn't a big deal for me, I didn't plan on this as a restoration. A few years later I lined the inside of the trailer and that took care of the evidence.

This is my plan, but I've only got minor surface rust, no pitting as of yet.

7slotgrills · 05-09-08, 05:46 PM

Try POR15 I used it on my M100 trailer
www.7slotgrills.com/m100project.html

The bed was rusty but in one piece/ I just painted the bed
with RustO Dark Olive

airlaird · 05-09-08, 07:25 PM

Nicely done.......where did you find the cables for teh tailgate??
airlaird

7slotgrills · 05-10-08, 06:47 AM

The back of my M100 was cut out when I got, it so I welded in a a CJ7 tailgate. I had to add pieces of steel on top to follow the lines of the trailer. Those are factory cables from a CJ7. I used
after market stainless steel hinges so they open everytime and won't rust up.

7slotgrills · 05-10-08, 06:52 AM

I'm new so I guess I can only post so many pictures. I wanted to post the tailgate.

Snook · 05-10-08, 09:07 AM

That's creative way to come up with tailgate part!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7slotgrills

The back of my M100 was cut out when I got, it so I welded in a a CJ7 tailgate.

The back of my M416 was cutted and converted to tailgate. The heavy duty chain was welded to the tailgate for max support (hauled dirts) and it is covered with bike tube for rattle-free.

Cheers,

cruzzer · 05-10-08, 09:32 AM

You can use "lab metal". Its similar to jb weld type stuff but its easier to put down and can be spread thin, just work fast. Best to do this when there is bare metal or primer only. I used this years ago for a rusted trunk. This stuff acts like metal and can be drilled and threaded etc.. I've used to to repair hubs where the wheel bearings spun. This stuff isn't cheap but better than plastic filler..

Ebag333 · 05-10-08, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cruzzer

You can use "lab metal".

Where do you source your lab metal from? Does it come in quantities (and how much)?

I can get JBWeld, but only in small amounts and while it'd work for small areas not something I'd want to use for larger areas.

Degnol · 05-12-08, 02:24 PM

AirLaird, I think you would be surprised what using a hi-build urethane primer will do to fill in the pits. Any that do not fill can be spotted with lacquer putty.

GL

Ed

cruzzer · 05-13-08, 08:16 PM

Any "good" bearing supply house should be ably to help you out with the lab metal,, Thats where I get it from, comes in pints, quarts, and I think gallons?? I've only bought the pints tho.. spreading it on thin just to fill in the pits it goes far..
Heres a link I found,,Metal repair and patching compound - Alvin Products - Metal Restoration and Repair

cruzzer · 05-13-08, 08:24 PM

By the way,, I bought it much cheaper at the bearing store than the prices on the site,, the can was $18 I think and the solvent was $11 or something,, both for right around $30-33 tax and all.. was enough to do a very pitted up trunklid on a 67 cadillac..

05-04-08, 12:11 PM	#1
airlaird IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Dallas, Texas Posts: 1,087	Painting M416..what to do about "pitting" Guys obviously, these old trailers have rust etc. I will be getting mine sandlblasted soon. The problem I foresee is I doubt the sandblasting will get rid of "pitting" in the surface of the metal. Is there any option after sandblasting, to get the trailer coated with a thick primer to to fill in the pitting...so it will look better after it's painted? Any suggestion on what to use to fill in these little crevaces in the bare metal...prior to painting?? airlaird

05-04-08, 10:57 PM	#2
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	If the pitting is visible to the naked eye, then you will need to use a plastic filler to get a smooth finish. It would take a lot of primer to fill in anything more than a scuff in the metal. Don't be afraid of a little filler, just don't go crazy with it. Rezarf <>< __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

05-04-08, 11:27 PM	#3
Exiled Not even a web wheeler Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX TLCA# 4080 Posts: 1,405	Mine only had pitting on the inside. I sandblasted, primed, painted, and you could still see a bit of pitting. It wasn't a big deal for me, I didn't plan on this as a restoration. A few years later I lined the inside of the trailer and that took care of the evidence. __________________ 1999 UZJ100 "the Watermelon"

05-05-08, 04:14 PM	#5
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	Powder will cover some pitting but not all, if it is deeper than 1mm it is going to need filler to be smooth. Just my .02, but hey, it is a trailer, I'd just paint it! __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

05-05-08, 05:27 PM	#6
cbmontgo IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Castle Rock, Colorado TLCA# 14207 Posts: 1,518	I'd suggest just painting it. The pitting is not noticeable (unless it is REALLY bad), and the trailer will serve its purpose. Even a lot of the high-dollar restored ones on Ebay have some pitting if you look closely enough. __________________ 1985 rust-free, Arizona-raised FJ60 with 33s, OME 2.5", ARB bull bar, Hella 4000s and Warn M8000. The Silver Sliver. 1992 restored Canadian M101 1/4 ton trailer with rooftop tent Lone Star Land Cruisers

05-05-08, 08:57 AM	#4
kilo IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Garland, Texas TLCA# 17779 Posts: 12	I would think that a POWDER coat would hide it better than a regular paint. I have it mainly on the frame and some on the inside of the bed. My plan is to powder coat everything and have TOFF liners spray the inside.

05-09-08, 04:22 PM	#7
Snook IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Bay Area, CA TLCA# 9785 Posts: 638	Pitting is normal. Big dents is filled with filler to prevent water pooling if needed. __________________ Snook 2000 UZJ100 Nip/Tuck front ARB & rear 4x4Labs bumper w/ towing hooks - 8k Warn - Slee Slider - Drop diff - Slee T bar - 315 MTR - Slee HD Rear Spring - ARB Air Lockers - Regear 4.88 - Snorkel w/ GPS - ARB Refri - 1" spacers F & R - 3k W inverter - water heater shower system - '67 Custom Tailgated M416 trailer w/ Italian OverCamp http://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-c...100-snook.html Video by Snook: http://www.tlcwagons.org/Norcal_Wago...os/Videos.html

05-09-08, 05:46 PM	#9
7slotgrills IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 8	Try POR15 I used it on my M100 trailer www.7slotgrills.com/m100project.html The bed was rusty but in one piece/ I just painted the bed with RustO Dark Olive Attached Images

05-09-08, 07:25 PM	#10
airlaird IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Dallas, Texas Posts: 1,087	Nicely done.......where did you find the cables for teh tailgate?? airlaird

05-10-08, 06:47 AM	#11
7slotgrills IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 8	The back of my M100 was cut out when I got, it so I welded in a a CJ7 tailgate. I had to add pieces of steel on top to follow the lines of the trailer. Those are factory cables from a CJ7. I used after market stainless steel hinges so they open everytime and won't rust up.

05-10-08, 06:52 AM	#12
7slotgrills IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 8	I'm new so I guess I can only post so many pictures. I wanted to post the tailgate.

05-10-08, 09:32 AM	#14
cruzzer IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 62	You can use "lab metal". Its similar to jb weld type stuff but its easier to put down and can be spread thin, just work fast. Best to do this when there is bare metal or primer only. I used this years ago for a rusted trunk. This stuff acts like metal and can be drilled and threaded etc.. I've used to to repair hubs where the wheel bearings spun. This stuff isn't cheap but better than plastic filler..

05-12-08, 02:24 PM	#16
Degnol Noaccount Webwheeler Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kansastitty TLCA# 14529 Posts: 6,139	AirLaird, I think you would be surprised what using a hi-build urethane primer will do to fill in the pits. Any that do not fill can be spotted with lacquer putty. GL Ed __________________ There is nothing so depraved as a man in the depths of an ether binge '66FJ40, Fresh 2F, H42/Orion(By Poser...LCR4WD), ARB Front/rear(By Poser...LCR4WD), MetalTech Cage installed by Poser, Screw-ups fixed(by Poser) 4WDB Corvette Master, Mini Truck PS, 3.5" Lift, Warn 8274, 33s on stockers

05-13-08, 08:16 PM	#17
cruzzer IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 62	Any "good" bearing supply house should be ably to help you out with the lab metal,, Thats where I get it from, comes in pints, quarts, and I think gallons?? I've only bought the pints tho.. spreading it on thin just to fill in the pits it goes far.. Heres a link I found,,Metal repair and patching compound - Alvin Products - Metal Restoration and Repair

05-13-08, 08:24 PM	#18
cruzzer IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Sep 2006 Posts: 62	By the way,, I bought it much cheaper at the bearing store than the prices on the site,, the can was $18 I think and the solvent was $11 or something,, both for right around $30-33 tax and all.. was enough to do a very pitted up trunklid on a 67 cadillac..

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