My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread - Page 9

89s rule · 10-22-07, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xanatost

I used spray foam too.

Spray foam is bad news, it attracts moisture and causes rust issues quick. Avoid it like the plague when metal is involved.

REZARF · 10-22-07, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spressomon

Man...it's look'n great Drew! FYI: The latch style catches/latches I have on my AT allow adjustment for different bulb compression, wear, etc. Whatever latch you end up utilizing just make sure it allows for adjustment...you'll use it!

Thanks for the tip. I plan on making the latch striker adjustable to be able to make it adjustable, and to get a good tight fit. I looked into the latches that AT uses, they are really popular in Australia. I got the latchs I am using for about 2 bucks per latch, so I am going to give them a shot.

Xanatost · 10-23-07, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89s rule

Spray foam is bad news, it attracts moisture and causes rust issues quick. Avoid it like the plague when metal is involved.

I have never had a problem with that. The only way I see how that could be a issue is if you let the water stand in the frame. I know a lot of off roader's use it to keep there wires and fuel lines from rubbing.

REZARF · 10-29-07, 12:47 PM

I have a question for those who care.

I am debating on using a different set of latches for the rear now. I think that spressmon makes a great point. I was trying to figure out over and over how to make my strikers adjustable, but it is going to be quite a complicated build.

I was out playing with the different setups and realized the hold downs i was going to use for the lid of the trailer could perform double duty and hold the tailgate in place as well. However, I loose the key lock and nice finished look of the paddle latches.

What do you think?

I will post up a pic. Thanks for your help with this.

Drew

REZARF · 10-29-07, 12:58 PM

Pic one, paddle latch.

Pic two: De Sta Co latch, I love the one on my tire carrier, it has over 300 lbs of clamping force for each one. The downside to this method is two fold, I have to think of another locking mechanism, and a way that the tailgate won't collapse everytime I want to open the lid.

Thanks for the replies in advance.

Degnol · 10-29-07, 01:16 PM

Drew, does that top piece of 1" square tube stay there? If it does, the frame should be rigid enough that I don't think you should have a big problem with them loosening/flexing and needing too much adjustment. Maybe I'm not understanding completely

I sure like the paddle latches!

Ed

REZARF · 10-29-07, 04:02 PM

Nope, you got it right. The top 1" tube will stay there to brace up the rear, it will be gussetted in three directions to add strength to the rear. The strikers will be a bit of a bear to fab and make adustable but I like the look too.

Degnol · 10-29-07, 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REZARF

Nope, you got it right. The top 1" tube will stay there to brace up the rear, it will be gussetted in three directions to add strength to the rear. The strikers will be a bit of a bear to fab and make adustable but I like the look too.

You can do it

Everything you've done so far is first-class..........get busy!

Can you post up pics of the back side of that same pic, showing your striker dilemma?

Ed

gavman · 10-29-07, 04:56 PM

IMO the one in the second pic is too big and not refined enough for your trailer!
The concealed one is better

Keep up the good work

Degnol · 10-29-07, 05:16 PM

Drew, I don't know how deep the paddle latch is, but could you recess it into the tailgate so that you just use the top bar as the striker?
We need a pic of the profile of the latch mechanism

Ed

REZARF · 10-30-07, 09:10 AM

I'll try to get a pick.

REZARF · 11-07-07, 11:06 AM

I just dropped off a big order at McMaster yesterday. I got the lid framed out, so I should be moving again soon. Anyone have any good ideas for a homemade propane mount?

Thanks!

lx450landcruiser · 11-07-07, 11:15 AM

why does the tail gate latch have to be adjustable? you could always go the route i did and if you wated it adjustable recess the flap a bit more and add some of that hard plastic (the cutting board stuff) with a few counter sunk allens, they you could always change it out due to wear if thats an issue. Im curious to see what you do for the lid latches as im there as well. Im looking at the double latch system that they use in truck tool boxes, basically a latch on both sides but they open using the one handle in the middle

Degnol · 11-07-07, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REZARF

Anyone have any good ideas for a homemade propane mount?

Thanks!

Drew, not homade, but for the price............................

http://www.rvlifestyles.net/ItemPage...6-c489ac78657a

Steveup · 11-07-07, 06:53 PM

Drew,

Assuming you have all the tools and welder before you started how much do you expect this project to cost when you are done?

REZARF · 11-07-07, 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steveup

Drew,

Assuming you have all the tools and welder before you started how much do you expect this project to cost when you are done?

Too much

Seriously though, I will tally everything when it is done.

REZARF · 11-07-07, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lx450landcruiser

why does the tail gate latch have to be adjustable? you could always go the route i did and if you wated it adjustable recess the flap a bit more and add some of that hard plastic (the cutting board stuff) with a few counter sunk allens, they you could always change it out due to wear if thats an issue.

To get a rattle free system, and insure that as your weather stripping starts to deteriorate, you really want to be able to adjust the latches. Your idea would work fine. I am going to do something similar, using nylon block over steel.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lx450landcruiser

Im curious to see what you do for the lid latches as im there as well. Im looking at the double latch system that they use in truck tool boxes, basically a latch on both sides but they open using the one handle in the middle

I decided to use a work load rated adjustable draw latch from McMaster on the inside of the lid, I finally figured out my space for the drawers on the interior and the latches I picked should mount right up without any clearance issues. This means I will need to open the tailgate to open the lid, but that is acceptable for me.

I will post up pics when the big box arrives!

REZARF · 11-11-07, 09:10 PM

Here is what the catch of the latches looks like... You can see the flange and that would rest up against the top tube of the tailgate, if you flip back a few images you can see how it would be installed.

Let me know what you think! THANKS!

REZARF · 11-11-07, 09:16 PM

Here are some of the cool things that came from McMaster the other day. First is the "Ultra High Corrosion Resistant" Socket head bolts. I got them in both 3/8" and 1/4" sizes to bolt all kinds of things to the trailer.

Next up is a bad pic, but I got 4 piano hinges, all are 2" wide, two have .125" pins and are .060 thick, and the other ones are 3/32" pins with a .090 thickness.

I got two rubber straps to use as dampening on my propane tank mounts.

Last one is the littel bitty latches I got for the little "doors" on the ends of the frame rails.

REZARF · 11-11-07, 09:21 PM

I got three kinds of latches. All are adjustable, two are really tiny, the middle two are rated at 200lbs clamping force each, and will hold down the main lid. I will mount these on the inside of the main box and I will be able to access them only when the tailgate is down, but I don't need to lock them then, and it makes the exterior look a little cleaner too.

The big ones are really beefy and they will hold down the lid to the front box. I had to get a beefy one to get a pad lock eye. They are really nice and well made.

I can get part numbers if anyone needs them.

REZARF · 11-11-07, 09:26 PM

Got to work on the lid for a while today.

Here is where I ended up today, The frame is only tacked up and fitted. I spent most of the day welding all the seams of the big box and grinding... and grinding... and grinding all day long. Got everything pretty flush and smooth. Welding the light 16ga. tubing proved to be quite a delicate operation, especially when I was welding the ends of the tubing as it likes to burn up faster than the other sections. All in all it was a good afternoon.

REZARF · 11-11-07, 09:29 PM

Got a little camera crazy today. Here are a few more...

Tomorrow I am off to get more steel... again!

For the tailgate and drawers and a few floor "spreaders," I have decided on a metal floor and I am going to make a few spreaders over the frame crossmembers since it will not have any strength otherwise.

Should be able to order and start work on the sheet metal after thanks giving, that will be cool.

REZARF · 11-11-07, 09:35 PM

I could use a little help on something... hinges.

On the lid, I am thinking of welding the piano hinge on only one side (the lid), and bolting the other side to the cargo box top leading edge. The idea being I can unbolt it later if I want to haul around something non-camping related like a fridge or something. I was thinking of a row of the 1/4" UHCR Bolts I have a sealed washers to keep out the junk.

If I use the hinge in the closed position then the gap created between the lid and cargo tub is about 1/4" a bit too big in my opinion...

...what say you?

Thanks in advance- Rezarf <><

spressomon · 11-11-07, 09:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REZARF

I could use a little help on something... hinges.

On the lid, I am thinking of welding the piano hinge on only one side (the lid), and bolting the other side to the cargo box top leading edge. The idea being I can unbolt it later if I want to haul around something non-camping related like a fridge or something. I was thinking of a row of the 1/4" UHCR Bolts I have a sealed washers to keep out the junk.

If I use the hinge in the closed position then the gap created between the lid and cargo tub is about 1/4" a bit too big in my opinion...

...what say you?

Thanks in advance- Rezarf <><

What type of weatherstripping are you going to use between the lid and box? Bulb type (the type AT uses) come in a variety of thicknesses. Don't know where you can buy it...maybe MMC?

10-29-07, 12:47 PM	#244
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	I have a question for those who care. I am debating on using a different set of latches for the rear now. I think that spressmon makes a great point. I was trying to figure out over and over how to make my strikers adjustable, but it is going to be quite a complicated build. I was out playing with the different setups and realized the hold downs i was going to use for the lid of the trailer could perform double duty and hold the tailgate in place as well. However, I loose the key lock and nice finished look of the paddle latches. What do you think? I will post up a pic. Thanks for your help with this. Drew __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-29-07, 12:58 PM	#245
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	Pic one, paddle latch. Pic two: De Sta Co latch, I love the one on my tire carrier, it has over 300 lbs of clamping force for each one. The downside to this method is two fold, I have to think of another locking mechanism, and a way that the tailgate won't collapse everytime I want to open the lid. Thanks for the replies in advance. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-29-07, 01:16 PM	#246
Degnol Noaccount Webwheeler Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kansastitty TLCA# 14529 Posts: 6,477	Drew, does that top piece of 1" square tube stay there? If it does, the frame should be rigid enough that I don't think you should have a big problem with them loosening/flexing and needing too much adjustment. Maybe I'm not understanding completelyI sure like the paddle latches! Ed __________________ There is nothing so depraved as a man in the depths of an ether binge '66FJ40, Fresh 2F, H42/Orion(By Poser...LCR4WD), ARB Front/rear(By Poser...LCR4WD), MetalTech Cage installed by Poser, Screw-ups fixed(by Poser) 4WDB Corvette Master, Mini Truck PS, 3.5" Lift, Warn 8274, 33s on stockers

10-29-07, 04:02 PM	#247
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	Nope, you got it right. The top 1" tube will stay there to brace up the rear, it will be gussetted in three directions to add strength to the rear. The strikers will be a bit of a bear to fab and make adustable but I like the look too. __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-29-07, 05:16 PM	#250
Degnol Noaccount Webwheeler Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kansastitty TLCA# 14529 Posts: 6,477	Drew, I don't know how deep the paddle latch is, but could you recess it into the tailgate so that you just use the top bar as the striker? We need a pic of the profile of the latch mechanism Ed __________________ There is nothing so depraved as a man in the depths of an ether binge '66FJ40, Fresh 2F, H42/Orion(By Poser...LCR4WD), ARB Front/rear(By Poser...LCR4WD), MetalTech Cage installed by Poser, Screw-ups fixed(by Poser) 4WDB Corvette Master, Mini Truck PS, 3.5" Lift, Warn 8274, 33s on stockers

10-29-07, 04:56 PM	#249
gavman IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Vancouver Canada Posts: 125	IMO the one in the second pic is too big and not refined enough for your trailer! The concealed one is better Keep up the good work

10-30-07, 09:10 AM	#251
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	I'll try to get a pick. __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

11-07-07, 11:06 AM	#252
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	I just dropped off a big order at McMaster yesterday. I got the lid framed out, so I should be moving again soon. Anyone have any good ideas for a homemade propane mount? Thanks! __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

11-07-07, 11:15 AM	#253
lx450landcruiser IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: bellingham wa/prescott az Posts: 2,377	why does the tail gate latch have to be adjustable? you could always go the route i did and if you wated it adjustable recess the flap a bit more and add some of that hard plastic (the cutting board stuff) with a few counter sunk allens, they you could always change it out due to wear if thats an issue. Im curious to see what you do for the lid latches as im there as well. Im looking at the double latch system that they use in truck tool boxes, basically a latch on both sides but they open using the one handle in the middle __________________ 1996 LX450 ARB, dual batteries, remote starter, 760 watt sub woofer, in dash CB, Custom switch pannel, cut and turn mod, magnaflow, custom rear bumper, rock lights, 2.5 lift, snorkle. clear side lights, CSC alum spacers, 33s, and more to come.

11-07-07, 06:53 PM	#255
Steveup IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 4	Drew, Assuming you have all the tools and welder before you started how much do you expect this project to cost when you are done?

11-11-07, 09:10 PM	#258
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	Here is what the catch of the latches looks like... You can see the flange and that would rest up against the top tube of the tailgate, if you flip back a few images you can see how it would be installed. Let me know what you think! THANKS! Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

11-11-07, 09:16 PM	#259
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	Here are some of the cool things that came from McMaster the other day. First is the "Ultra High Corrosion Resistant" Socket head bolts. I got them in both 3/8" and 1/4" sizes to bolt all kinds of things to the trailer. Next up is a bad pic, but I got 4 piano hinges, all are 2" wide, two have .125" pins and are .060 thick, and the other ones are 3/32" pins with a .090 thickness. I got two rubber straps to use as dampening on my propane tank mounts. Last one is the littel bitty latches I got for the little "doors" on the ends of the frame rails. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

11-11-07, 09:21 PM	#260
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	I got three kinds of latches. All are adjustable, two are really tiny, the middle two are rated at 200lbs clamping force each, and will hold down the main lid. I will mount these on the inside of the main box and I will be able to access them only when the tailgate is down, but I don't need to lock them then, and it makes the exterior look a little cleaner too. The big ones are really beefy and they will hold down the lid to the front box. I had to get a beefy one to get a pad lock eye. They are really nice and well made. I can get part numbers if anyone needs them. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

11-11-07, 09:26 PM	#261
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	Got to work on the lid for a while today. Here is where I ended up today, The frame is only tacked up and fitted. I spent most of the day welding all the seams of the big box and grinding... and grinding... and grinding all day long. Got everything pretty flush and smooth. Welding the light 16ga. tubing proved to be quite a delicate operation, especially when I was welding the ends of the tubing as it likes to burn up faster than the other sections. All in all it was a good afternoon. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

11-11-07, 09:29 PM	#262
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	Got a little camera crazy today. Here are a few more... Tomorrow I am off to get more steel... again! For the tailgate and drawers and a few floor "spreaders," I have decided on a metal floor and I am going to make a few spreaders over the frame crossmembers since it will not have any strength otherwise. Should be able to order and start work on the sheet metal after thanks giving, that will be cool. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

11-11-07, 09:35 PM	#263
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	I could use a little help on something... hinges. On the lid, I am thinking of welding the piano hinge on only one side (the lid), and bolting the other side to the cargo box top leading edge. The idea being I can unbolt it later if I want to haul around something non-camping related like a fridge or something. I was thinking of a row of the 1/4" UHCR Bolts I have a sealed washers to keep out the junk. If I use the hinge in the closed position then the gap created between the lid and cargo tub is about 1/4" a bit too big in my opinion... ...what say you? Thanks in advance- Rezarf <>< __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.