My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread - Page 8

REZARF · 10-16-07, 12:33 PM

Its the corrosion i am trying to avoid, plus you cant find a grade 8 in a socket head :( and the hex heads don't look as nice.

That said, I will tak strength over looks anyday.

Thanks for all the advice fellas!

Drew

SPM_Ltd · 10-16-07, 02:03 PM

You might want to look through this reference:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Scroll down to Fasterners and Sealing and then click on bolts.

You may not want to order the bolts from them (it's always nicer to go down to the store and pick them up) but it is a good reference for what is available. They list the tensile strength of the bolts so that you can compare the strength.

Steve

spressomon · 10-16-07, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPM_Ltd

You might want to look through this reference:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Scroll down to Fasterners and Sealing and then click on bolts.

You may not want to order the bolts from them (it's always nicer to go down to the store and pick them up) but it is a good reference for what is available. They list the tensile strength of the bolts so that you can compare the strength.

Steve

Hey Drew...just in case you haven't found them already MC lists "Ultra Corrosion Resistant" hex ("allen") cap screws that have almost 30% higher tensile strength than same size in Grd 8!

Niner · 10-17-07, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REZARF

I use anti sieze on everything anyways

I am leaning towards the grade 8 now...

Thanks

IMHO grade 5 is as far as you should go. in the sport of wheeling the weight of the vehicles and what even the rock buggys do an grade 8 is more likely to fail due to shearing than a grade 5.

The theory on this is a standard bolt is too soft and smears, a grade 8 is too hard and will shear off without warning. A grade 5 will shmear a little before and appear loose before complete failure.

Just what we have been using in the northern midwest area the last 15 years.

REZARF · 10-18-07, 02:17 PM

Great point man, thanks.

Drew

sseaman · 10-18-07, 03:28 PM

any new pics?

Arya Ebrahimi · 10-18-07, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Niner

IMHO grade 5 is as far as you should go. in the sport of wheeling the weight of the vehicles and what even the rock buggys do an grade 8 is more likely to fail due to shearing than a grade 5.

The theory on this is a standard bolt is too soft and smears, a grade 8 is too hard and will shear off without warning. A grade 5 will shmear a little before and appear loose before complete failure.

Just what we have been using in the northern midwest area the last 15 years.

This has been debated over and over again on Pirate and I will still take a Grade 8 over a Grade 5 any day of the week. The Grade 5 may "shmear" as you say, but the Grade 8 wouldn't be phased at that same load. It's not like they ultimately fail at the same load and one warns you while the other doesn't. The grade 8 is significantly stronger.

spressomon · 10-18-07, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arya Ebrahimi

This has been debated over and over again on Pirate and I will still take a Grade 8 over a Grade 5 any day of the week. The Grade 5 may "shmear" as you say, but the Grade 8 wouldn't be phased at that same load. It's not like they ultimately fail at the same load and one warns you while the other doesn't. The grade 8 is significantly stronger.

Same opinion here. But hey...it's your trailer

.

lx450landcruiser · 10-19-07, 01:29 AM

not that it makes any difference it seems almost att the bolts and harware on my m101 is grade 8

REZARF · 10-19-07, 12:16 PM

If the grade 8 shears, I will have bigger problems than the box coming off the trailer!

I have landed on the grade 8, it is cheaper, and stronger. The books say a standard stainless bolt is around a SAE Grade 2!

Grade 8 gives me peace of mind, I just need to find a few that are corrosion resistant.

Thanks!

spressomon · 10-19-07, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REZARF

If the grade 8 shears, I will have bigger problems than the box coming off the trailer!

I have landed on the grade 8, it is cheaper, and stronger. The books say a standard stainless bolt is around a SAE Grade 2!

Grade 8 gives me peace of mind, I just need to find a few that are corrosion resistant.

Thanks!

See #213 above...

REZARF · 10-19-07, 08:52 PM

Thanks Bro! I checked it out but it said they were unrated, I didn't check the tensile strength of the grade 8's by comparison. Thanks again man!

Drew

REZARF · 10-21-07, 12:09 AM

Got to work on the trailer for a few hours today, I was excited to get a few things nailed down design wise. I think I have decided to make provisions for a lifting lid, even though I might not make it functional right now.

Today I worked on the main cargo "cage" and some of the side supports. Time was spent thinking through some of the hard mounted items that need to be fitted and accounted for. The propane tanks being the biggest. I also wanted to figure out a way to install the sliding track that I have for cargo tie down points that I got from a RS Club member, thanks Brian!

A few other things got done as well... onto the pics!

First off, I got the cage straight and measured and bolted down. I have a set of the ultra corrosion resistant bolts on the way, thanks again supressomon! Those will get swapped on once they arrive.

Then I drilled a 1.5" hole to pass wiring and plumbing inside the frame rails and out of harms way.

REZARF · 10-21-07, 12:50 AM

Next was a mock up of the latches I am going to use. They are from the RV market and are a real quality piece, I just wanted to see what kind of strikers I am going to need.

REZARF · 10-21-07, 12:55 AM

In this next pic you can see the tie down system I am using. It is made by Hi-Lift and is ubber nice. They have an extruded aluminum track that allows tie downs to be slid along its length then they spring into place at a given interval. I am super stoked about this track system.

I am going to sandwich this tie down rail between to structural rails for a few reasons. First, I think it will be strongest like that, and second, I think it will look sweet with the black rail running down the length of the trailer. You can see in the pic that I will have enough left over to do the same thing for the short box up front!

The second pic you can see the top rail and the track, I will add a lower rail tomorrow if I have some time. The last pic is where I ended up tonight, man the garage gets SO messy after a day of working in it!

Hopefully I will get the lid started if not finished framing out tomorrow. I still need to order the piano hinges for the side door, tailgate, lid, and the front box. Then I can get the box wrapped up.

vtcruiser60 · 10-21-07, 08:25 AM

Drew....you may want to pick up some wire grommets before fishing those wires through your trailer holes. You might be able to find some nice grommets at an electrical supply store. The rubber covers the burred holes you just cut into the tailight areas. The rubber will protect the wires from chaffing.....shorts...etc.

HTH

REZARF · 10-21-07, 10:40 AM

Planning on it, thanks! I am going to run everything in loom and every pass through will have a fitted grommet as well.

vtcruiser60 · 10-21-07, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REZARF

Planning on it, thanks! I am going to run everything in loom and every pass through will have a fitted grommet as well.

What's a loom?

REZARF · 10-21-07, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vtcruiser60

What's a loom?

The plastic corrogated tubing with a split down the side that wires go into to avoid chaffing and looking like a mess.

Degnol · 10-21-07, 06:06 PM

I think it is used for weaving.

REZARF · 10-21-07, 06:09 PM

So today I wanted to get the tie down system done, and I did.

I had to measure and cut the bottom tubes to fit, and then stuff the tie down rail between the two tubes. However, if I made it fit too tight, then I would have to mess up the paint when installing it for the final time. So I took some scrap 16ga. sheets and spaced the pieces to give me enough paint clearance when it comes time to bolt it up.

REZARF · 10-21-07, 06:27 PM

I can't say enough of how nice this slide-n-lock system is. Here are a few detail shots...

REZARF · 10-21-07, 06:32 PM

I started to play around with the lid layout today. I am going to use a 2x1" 16ga tubing around the lid edges so I can overhang it by 1". This will give me some rain protection, and a place to mount my Yakima rack system. I plan on running a "gutter" piece (angle steel) along the entire length of each side.

Here is a rough layout...

REZARF · 10-21-07, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Degnol

I think it is used for weaving.

Yup, that is what I am running all my wires in!

LOL

10-16-07, 12:33 PM	#211
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	Its the corrosion i am trying to avoid, plus you cant find a grade 8 in a socket head :( and the hex heads don't look as nice. That said, I will tak strength over looks anyday. Thanks for all the advice fellas! Drew __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-16-07, 02:03 PM	#212
SPM_Ltd IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2003 Posts: 156	Fasteners You might want to look through this reference: http://www.mcmaster.com/ Scroll down to Fasterners and Sealing and then click on bolts. You may not want to order the bolts from them (it's always nicer to go down to the store and pick them up) but it is a good reference for what is available. They list the tensile strength of the bolts so that you can compare the strength. Steve

10-18-07, 02:17 PM	#215
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	Great point man, thanks. Drew __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-18-07, 03:28 PM	#216
sseaman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 1,372	any new pics? __________________ 91 FJ80 318k, spare tire mod, custom roof rack----SOLD 98 4runner 141k---SOLD 98 Avalon 149k 04 Sequoia 74k

10-19-07, 01:29 AM	#219
lx450landcruiser IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: bellingham wa/prescott az Posts: 2,439	not that it makes any difference it seems almost att the bolts and harware on my m101 is grade 8 __________________ 1996 LX450 ARB, dual batteries, remote starter, 760 watt sub woofer, in dash CB, Custom switch pannel, cut and turn mod, magnaflow, custom rear bumper, rock lights, 2.5 lift, snorkle. clear side lights, CSC alum spacers, 33s, and more to come.

10-19-07, 12:16 PM	#220
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	If the grade 8 shears, I will have bigger problems than the box coming off the trailer! I have landed on the grade 8, it is cheaper, and stronger. The books say a standard stainless bolt is around a SAE Grade 2! Grade 8 gives me peace of mind, I just need to find a few that are corrosion resistant. Thanks! __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-19-07, 08:52 PM	#222
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	Thanks Bro! I checked it out but it said they were unrated, I didn't check the tensile strength of the grade 8's by comparison. Thanks again man! Drew __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-21-07, 12:09 AM	#223
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	Got to work on the trailer for a few hours today, I was excited to get a few things nailed down design wise. I think I have decided to make provisions for a lifting lid, even though I might not make it functional right now. Today I worked on the main cargo "cage" and some of the side supports. Time was spent thinking through some of the hard mounted items that need to be fitted and accounted for. The propane tanks being the biggest. I also wanted to figure out a way to install the sliding track that I have for cargo tie down points that I got from a RS Club member, thanks Brian! A few other things got done as well... onto the pics! First off, I got the cage straight and measured and bolted down. I have a set of the ultra corrosion resistant bolts on the way, thanks again supressomon! Those will get swapped on once they arrive. Then I drilled a 1.5" hole to pass wiring and plumbing inside the frame rails and out of harms way. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-21-07, 12:50 AM	#224
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	Next was a mock up of the latches I am going to use. They are from the RV market and are a real quality piece, I just wanted to see what kind of strikers I am going to need. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-21-07, 12:55 AM	#225
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	In this next pic you can see the tie down system I am using. It is made by Hi-Lift and is ubber nice. They have an extruded aluminum track that allows tie downs to be slid along its length then they spring into place at a given interval. I am super stoked about this track system. I am going to sandwich this tie down rail between to structural rails for a few reasons. First, I think it will be strongest like that, and second, I think it will look sweet with the black rail running down the length of the trailer. You can see in the pic that I will have enough left over to do the same thing for the short box up front! The second pic you can see the top rail and the track, I will add a lower rail tomorrow if I have some time. The last pic is where I ended up tonight, man the garage gets SO messy after a day of working in it! Hopefully I will get the lid started if not finished framing out tomorrow. I still need to order the piano hinges for the side door, tailgate, lid, and the front box. Then I can get the box wrapped up. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-21-07, 08:25 AM	#226
vtcruiser60 IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 TLCA# 15129 Posts: 1,405	Drew....you may want to pick up some wire grommets before fishing those wires through your trailer holes. You might be able to find some nice grommets at an electrical supply store. The rubber covers the burred holes you just cut into the tailight areas. The rubber will protect the wires from chaffing.....shorts...etc. HTH

10-21-07, 10:40 AM	#227
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	Planning on it, thanks! I am going to run everything in loom and every pass through will have a fitted grommet as well. __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-21-07, 06:06 PM	#230
Degnol Noaccount Webwheeler Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kansastitty TLCA# 14529 Posts: 6,556	I think it is used for weaving. Attached Images __________________ There is nothing so depraved as a man in the depths of an ether binge '66FJ40, Fresh 2F, H42/Orion(By Poser...LCR4WD), ARB Front/rear(By Poser...LCR4WD), MetalTech Cage installed by Poser, Screw-ups fixed(by Poser) 4WDB Corvette Master, Mini Truck PS, 3.5" Lift, Warn 8274, 33s on stockers

10-21-07, 06:09 PM	#231
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	So today I wanted to get the tie down system done, and I did. I had to measure and cut the bottom tubes to fit, and then stuff the tie down rail between the two tubes. However, if I made it fit too tight, then I would have to mess up the paint when installing it for the final time. So I took some scrap 16ga. sheets and spaced the pieces to give me enough paint clearance when it comes time to bolt it up. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-21-07, 06:27 PM	#232
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	I can't say enough of how nice this slide-n-lock system is. Here are a few detail shots... Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

10-21-07, 06:32 PM	#233
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,857	I started to play around with the lid layout today. I am going to use a 2x1" 16ga tubing around the lid edges so I can overhang it by 1". This will give me some rain protection, and a place to mount my Yakima rack system. I plan on running a "gutter" piece (angle steel) along the entire length of each side. Here is a rough layout... Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.