My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread - Page 24

sseaman · 05-07-08, 07:37 AM

we need pics

REZARF · 05-07-08, 07:58 AM

Trying to let the dust settle from Moab.

I have to make a loft in my garage to hang the top and doors tonight then tomorrow I restart the trailer!

I am ready to get this done.

Drew

REZARF · 05-09-08, 11:33 AM

Well, here we go again. I am back on it. I got my garage reorganized last night and now I am diving into the body work on the trailer and hope to be painting within a few days or so. Not much to look at, just smoothing out all the grinder marks with some filler and getting the panels straight for paint.

I realized I didn't post up some of my newly powder coated parts yet so here you go.

My lid got a sweet poly-UV-resistant glossy coat on it, and it looks amazing!

I also used an epoxy coat on the interior of my front box to keep the corrosive fumes from the cheap batteries at bay. All in all it is coming along and I am jazzed to be back on it. I hope to be in primer by Sunday but time will tell.

I decided all the interior boxes will be white, ever try to dig around at night for something in a black box? White makes it a bit easier, and if you add a little LED light you get a lot more illumination for the money. Just a tip.

Enjoy the pics!

boss73 · 05-09-08, 01:51 PM

This is one trailer that I cannot wait to see completed !! keep up the good work Drew!!

Tony

sseaman · 05-09-08, 01:55 PM

sweet drew, so any redesigns after moab?

REZARF · 05-09-08, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sseaman

sweet drew, so any redesigns after moab?

Not really, I saw a lot of really nice trailers. I am still gunning for just getting done with my design. There isn't really anything i would change except maybe to be able to tap into power hook up for my coffee maker, but even then I might accomplish that with an extension cord and not hard wire anything.

All in all, I am happy with my design, it will come up lacking in it suspension, man AT does it RIGHT! Otherwise I am go.

Drew

Degnol · 05-09-08, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REZARF

Not really, I saw a lot of really nice trailers. I am still gunning for just getting done with my design. There isn't really anything i would change except maybe to be able to tap into power hook up for my coffee maker, but even then I might accomplish that with an extension cord and not hard wire anything.

All in all, I am happy with my design, it will come up lacking in it suspension, man AT does it RIGHT! Otherwise I am go.

Drew

What about an inverter, since you have good battery power?

REZARF · 05-09-08, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Degnol

What about an inverter, since you have good battery power?

We were just pampered at the campsite with electric heated blankets, heater in the tent... and all I really care for is a good cup of Joe in the morning. Stove and french press will work just fine for us, I may look into an inverter down the road, this thing is going to be modded down the road too!

REZARF · 05-11-08, 08:44 PM

Got back on the trailer in full swing. Got the body "straight" this weekend and I am going to spray it in the morning. I thought I would post up a few step by steps for those who haven't done any body work before.

My panels are all new and flat, but everywhere I welded I burned through a bit to warp the backside of the weld on the sheet metal side. No biggie, I was expecting it.

So first off you only need to smooth the welds out with a med flap disk. Then spread the body filler (bondo) onto the newly made divets

Bondo isn't hard to work with, one little tip is, if you buy the Bondo brand spreaders, they are a pinkish color... if you mix the bondo hardner and filler to match the color of the spreader you have mixed it perfectly!

Then spread on just as much as you need to fill the recess and leave enough around the edge to feather it into the smooth surface.

REZARF · 05-11-08, 08:45 PM

Once the bondo has hardened it is time to sand. One a straight panel like mine, I am trying to sand away everything that is lower than the surface of the steel. I used a power sander to level mine though a block would be better if you were painting a hot rod... this is a trailer

I knocked it down first with 60 grit, followed by 100, 150, 220 grit. At this point your fingers will tell you more than your eyes. Keep sanding until there is no transition to be felt in your fingers, then you are set.

Most of my spots are nearly transparent and you can see the bondo filling the deep scratches. This is good enough for me, I will lightly block the primer to make sure I am getting it straight, but again, I have to keep telling myself, "this is for rust protection, not winning a car show"

REZARF · 05-11-08, 08:54 PM

Now that the body was as good as it is going to get, I started the first step in painting my little trailer... the underside.

I chose to use a 3M rubberized undercoating that cannot be top-coated. It is great stuff and sprays on a nice texture. I used 3 cans total, about 3/4 of a can on the little box and another 2 1/4 cans on the big box. I sanded the bottom of both boxes with 220 grit and wiped everything down with acetone before spraying. Here is a close up of the prepped metal.

REZARF · 05-11-08, 08:57 PM

I did use one of those little spray gun attachments to spray the rubberized undercoating from the can... it works great, cheesy, but they work great.

I put on about 4 coats onto each box.

Came out looking nice and rubbery!

REZARF · 05-11-08, 08:59 PM

Here is the final result, not too shabby.

Tomorrow, I am going to flip the box over, hose down the garage, hang up some plastic, wipe the poo off every surface, and spray this thing blue!

Wish me luck!

Acadia · 05-11-08, 09:16 PM

can't wait to see that blue on there

sseaman · 05-12-08, 07:18 AM

drew, you do top notch work

REZARF · 05-12-08, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Acadia

can't wait to see that blue on there

Quote:

Originally Posted by sseaman

drew, you do top notch work

Thanks guys, i am going to try to catch the last warm day of the week today and get the blue on. Off to the garage I go!

Drew

Corbet · 05-12-08, 11:20 AM

Drew, where did you purchase the 3M rubberized undercoating? How much?

Degnol · 05-12-08, 01:10 PM

Most any autoparts store will have it...

3M Underseal Rubberized Undercoating Black (Aerosol) - Automotive - BizRate - Compare prices & buy - Discount - Price

GL

OkieRover · 05-12-08, 01:55 PM

I know you are well down the design path. But I haven't been able to keep up.
Two things.
I found this on another site. It's a way to drain and fill the water tank I thought was well done.
G503 Album - 1946 Bantam T3-C #9466

Also,
On the fenders. I saw the way you mounted the fender to the sheet metal. It looked like to me it might cause the metal wall to flex when you do some bumpy roads. Essentially the fenders might, ever so slightly "flap" like wings on that wall.

If you tacked the top to the center support you could eliminate a bit of flex there. It's just an observation.
I marked the supports in red.

REZARF · 05-12-08, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Corbet

Drew, where did you purchase the 3M rubberized undercoating? How much?

Corbet, I bought that stuff at NAPA, for $5 bucks a can. There is some more expensive stuff (see the link above) that is the same stuff but can be top-coated... no need for that in my application.

Hope it helps.

Drew

Quote:

Originally Posted by OkieRover

I know you are well down the design path. But I haven't been able to keep up.
Two things.
I found this on another site. It's a way to drain and fill the water tank I thought was well done.
G503 Album - 1946 Bantam T3-C #9466

Also,
On the fenders. I saw the way you mounted the fender to the sheet metal. It looked like to me it might cause the metal wall to flex when you do some bumpy roads. Essentially the fenders might, ever so slightly "flap" like wings on that wall.

If you tacked the top to the center support you could eliminate a bit of flex there. It's just an observation.
I marked the supports in red.

Thanks we will see how it goes, I am using large fender washers on the backside of the panel so I bet they hold pretty good. I mounted them up and saw very very little flex... I can live with that!

REZARF · 05-12-08, 05:57 PM

Well, I am taking a break letting the primer flash... man I am high on fumes!

so I thought I would bump a quick post, here is a breakdown of my day.

First up, wet down the floor and shop vac it clean and shiny... and dust free (mostly).

REZARF · 05-12-08, 06:00 PM

Next up is covering all I can with plastic sheet to avoid the over spray from taking over the whole garage. I used a few drop cloths from Home Depot and it made short work of masking off the rest of the junk in the garage...

Then I made sure to have everything in place before getting started, here is my handy dandy workspace... it was nice considering I spilled a good bit of primer when I first got going, I will be nice to just scrap it and lay down new sheets when the time comes.

REZARF · 05-12-08, 06:01 PM

All the parts in primer!

05-07-08, 07:37 AM	#691
sseaman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 1,268	we need pics __________________ 91 FJ80 318k, spare tire mod, custom roof rack----SOLD 98 4runner 136k 98 Avalon 138k

05-07-08, 07:58 AM	#692
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	Trying to let the dust settle from Moab. I have to make a loft in my garage to hang the top and doors tonight then tomorrow I restart the trailer! I am ready to get this done. Drew __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

05-09-08, 11:33 AM	#693
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	Well, here we go again. I am back on it. I got my garage reorganized last night and now I am diving into the body work on the trailer and hope to be painting within a few days or so. Not much to look at, just smoothing out all the grinder marks with some filler and getting the panels straight for paint. I realized I didn't post up some of my newly powder coated parts yet so here you go. My lid got a sweet poly-UV-resistant glossy coat on it, and it looks amazing! I also used an epoxy coat on the interior of my front box to keep the corrosive fumes from the cheap batteries at bay. All in all it is coming along and I am jazzed to be back on it. I hope to be in primer by Sunday but time will tell. I decided all the interior boxes will be white, ever try to dig around at night for something in a black box? White makes it a bit easier, and if you add a little LED light you get a lot more illumination for the money. Just a tip. Enjoy the pics! Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread. Last edited by REZARF; 05-09-08 at 11:41 AM.

05-09-08, 01:51 PM	#694
boss73 IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Santa Cruz, CA TLCA# 16404 Posts: 67	This is one trailer that I cannot wait to see completed !! keep up the good work Drew!! Tony __________________ 1970 FJ40

05-09-08, 01:55 PM	#695
sseaman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 1,268	sweet drew, so any redesigns after moab? __________________ 91 FJ80 318k, spare tire mod, custom roof rack----SOLD 98 4runner 136k 98 Avalon 138k

05-11-08, 08:44 PM	#699
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	Got back on the trailer in full swing. Got the body "straight" this weekend and I am going to spray it in the morning. I thought I would post up a few step by steps for those who haven't done any body work before. My panels are all new and flat, but everywhere I welded I burned through a bit to warp the backside of the weld on the sheet metal side. No biggie, I was expecting it. So first off you only need to smooth the welds out with a med flap disk. Then spread the body filler (bondo) onto the newly made divets Bondo isn't hard to work with, one little tip is, if you buy the Bondo brand spreaders, they are a pinkish color... if you mix the bondo hardner and filler to match the color of the spreader you have mixed it perfectly! Then spread on just as much as you need to fill the recess and leave enough around the edge to feather it into the smooth surface. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

05-11-08, 08:45 PM	#700
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	Once the bondo has hardened it is time to sand. One a straight panel like mine, I am trying to sand away everything that is lower than the surface of the steel. I used a power sander to level mine though a block would be better if you were painting a hot rod... this is a trailer I knocked it down first with 60 grit, followed by 100, 150, 220 grit. At this point your fingers will tell you more than your eyes. Keep sanding until there is no transition to be felt in your fingers, then you are set. Most of my spots are nearly transparent and you can see the bondo filling the deep scratches. This is good enough for me, I will lightly block the primer to make sure I am getting it straight, but again, I have to keep telling myself, "this is for rust protection, not winning a car show" Attached Images Last edited by REZARF; 05-11-08 at 08:51 PM.

05-11-08, 08:54 PM	#701
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	Now that the body was as good as it is going to get, I started the first step in painting my little trailer... the underside. I chose to use a 3M rubberized undercoating that cannot be top-coated. It is great stuff and sprays on a nice texture. I used 3 cans total, about 3/4 of a can on the little box and another 2 1/4 cans on the big box. I sanded the bottom of both boxes with 220 grit and wiped everything down with acetone before spraying. Here is a close up of the prepped metal. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

05-11-08, 08:57 PM	#702
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	I did use one of those little spray gun attachments to spray the rubberized undercoating from the can... it works great, cheesy, but they work great. I put on about 4 coats onto each box. Came out looking nice and rubbery! Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

05-11-08, 08:59 PM	#703
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	Here is the final result, not too shabby. Tomorrow, I am going to flip the box over, hose down the garage, hang up some plastic, wipe the poo off every surface, and spray this thing blue! Wish me luck! Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

05-11-08, 09:16 PM	#704
Acadia IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 172	can't wait to see that blue on there __________________ 84' FJ60, 33's and a $25 DIY paint job 00' 4runner, OME lift

05-12-08, 07:18 AM	#705
sseaman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 1,268	drew, you do top notch work __________________ 91 FJ80 318k, spare tire mod, custom roof rack----SOLD 98 4runner 136k 98 Avalon 138k

05-12-08, 11:20 AM	#707
Corbet IH8MUD Addict Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Frisco, Colorado TLCA# 15340 Posts: 858	Drew, where did you purchase the 3M rubberized undercoating? How much? __________________ Rising Sun 4 Wheel Drive Club Member 1976 FJ40, A project with little progress. 1985 FJ60, SBC 350, Ranger Overdrive, OME, 33" MT/R, SafariGard bumper with T-max winch. 1997 FZJ80 40th Anniversary, locked and mostly stock... 2005 Subaru Outback XT limited (wife's)

05-12-08, 01:10 PM	#708
Degnol Noaccount Webwheeler Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kansastitty TLCA# 14529 Posts: 6,143	Most any autoparts store will have it... 3M Underseal Rubberized Undercoating Black (Aerosol) - Automotive - BizRate - Compare prices & buy - Discount - Price GL __________________ There is nothing so depraved as a man in the depths of an ether binge '66FJ40, Fresh 2F, H42/Orion(By Poser...LCR4WD), ARB Front/rear(By Poser...LCR4WD), MetalTech Cage installed by Poser, Screw-ups fixed(by Poser) 4WDB Corvette Master, Mini Truck PS, 3.5" Lift, Warn 8274, 33s on stockers

05-12-08, 01:55 PM	#709
OkieRover IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Norman Oklahoma Posts: 23	I know you are well down the design path. But I haven't been able to keep up. Two things. I found this on another site. It's a way to drain and fill the water tank I thought was well done. G503 Album - 1946 Bantam T3-C #9466 Also, On the fenders. I saw the way you mounted the fender to the sheet metal. It looked like to me it might cause the metal wall to flex when you do some bumpy roads. Essentially the fenders might, ever so slightly "flap" like wings on that wall. If you tacked the top to the center support you could eliminate a bit of flex there. It's just an observation. I marked the supports in red. __________________ OkieRover.Com

05-12-08, 05:57 PM	#711
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	Well, I am taking a break letting the primer flash... man I am high on fumes! so I thought I would bump a quick post, here is a breakdown of my day. First up, wet down the floor and shop vac it clean and shiny... and dust free (mostly). Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

05-12-08, 06:00 PM	#712
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	Next up is covering all I can with plastic sheet to avoid the over spray from taking over the whole garage. I used a few drop cloths from Home Depot and it made short work of masking off the rest of the junk in the garage... Then I made sure to have everything in place before getting started, here is my handy dandy workspace... it was nice considering I spilled a good bit of primer when I first got going, I will be nice to just scrap it and lay down new sheets when the time comes. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

05-12-08, 06:01 PM	#713
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,761	All the parts in primer! Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, sn