My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread - Page 11

REZARF · 11-26-07, 04:10 PM

Here are a few new pics.

Pic one: A little overall veiw of where I am at.

Pic two: How the front rack will sit once the lid is created.

Pic three: Rough placement of fenders and how they will eventually look. They will be cut down to sid on top of the cargo box bottom rail and will be bolted to the sheet metal.

REZARF · 11-26-07, 04:12 PM

Two more

Pic 1: Wheel that I attached using some grade 8 bolts to the bottom of the skid. I need to finish it up still but it does the job. Makes life SO much easier. I got a pnuematic wheel rated for 1000 lbs and it swivles with a greasable zirk fitting.

Cool thing is, unbolt 4 bolts and I still have the skid.

Pic 2: Where the propane tank mount will eventually live.

Enjoy!

Drew

sseaman · 11-26-07, 05:05 PM

progress is looking good

spressomon · 11-26-07, 07:59 PM

Drew: Looks great! I think you should plan to attend one of our Nevada off-road tours/excursion/adventure trips next spring for your break-in cruize!

Jacket · 11-27-07, 08:23 AM

Lookin really good Drew! Amazing work there.

sseaman · 11-27-07, 03:01 PM

what are you using for bending your tubing?

REZARF · 11-27-07, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spressomon

Drew: Looks great! I think you should plan to attend one of our Nevada off-road tours/excursion/adventure trips next spring for your break-in cruize!

We'll see, spring should be about right. However, I am mending a broken tailbone and I have a ways still to go. That was one reason I started this build this year... I couldn't wheel the season. :(

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jacket

Lookin really good Drew! Amazing work there.

Thanks Jacket! Hope to see you at the next NSTBC for a round of biscuits and gravy!

Quote:

Originally Posted by sseaman

what are you using for bending your tubing?

My buddy's bender, it is a JD2 with a square die.

Rezarf <><

AxleIke · 11-30-07, 10:38 AM

Looking great.

Heres to hoping your tail bone mends in time for you to use it this next summer.

REZARF · 12-02-07, 04:18 PM

Need a little help here.

I am debating between two options for mounting my RTT on top of the trailer. I have two possibilities and I need your advice.

I own a Yakima Rack system that can be attached to a rain gutter. I like the off the shelf parts, the finished look and the fact that I already own it. Downsides to this are, the RTT doesn't mount that well to it, and one or the other will need to be modified (probably the RTT). I also need to fab up a rain gutter onto the lid, which is starting to add pounds by the minute.

My other option is three or four fixed bolted or welded crossbars on the top of the lid. This would allow me to mount the tent in a super solid fashion and it would be permanent, and to make a custom slot for a fold up table. It would also double for hauling plywood or sheet goods in the future. Downside is weight and I would have to fab them up, no biggie just one more thing on the list. I would bend the same square tubing I used for the fenders while I have the die...

...what say you!?

Thanks in advance!

Rezarf <><

Degnol · 12-02-07, 04:40 PM

What about a stake pocket right in front of your fender and one right in front of your rear bumper that could serve as mounting points when you wanted to fit the RTT or just a naked rack to carry plywood?
OTOH, if your tie down rail is going to be mounted to the outside like your last pic, can't you fab up a simple attachment to it?

Ed

Exiled · 12-02-07, 05:41 PM

My vote of for custom *bolted* crossbars. You've come this far to get a complete, custom solution, why tie yourself to a solution that doesn't quite work because it's off-the-shelf parts? Sell the Yakima!

REZARF · 12-02-07, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Exiled

My vote of for custom *bolted* crossbars. You've come this far to get a complete, custom solution, why tie yourself to a solution that doesn't quite work because it's off-the-shelf parts? Sell the Yakima!

Henry, you got me into this mess!

I am leaning that way, but I like the Yakima system a lot, it just doesn't work well with the RTT I have.

If I make custom cross bars, there is a lot of steel being added up high, 12' worth of tubing at least, but I would probably make provision for 4 crossbars to spead the load, that'd be more like 16'.

Ed, I like the idea of a rack, the stake pockets are a good idea, but I am going to keep the mounts on the lid so they will move with the lid, instead of "holding" it down.

Thanks Ed and Henry... anyone else?

Degnol · 12-02-07, 07:03 PM

OK, then I would fab some welded-on mounts to the lid and just make sure the sides bear the load. You can still use some sort of "plug-in" stake pocket to allow it to be removed from the lid when you did not need it.
You can figger it out as you have already done some great engineering on this thing already!

Ed

J-man · 12-02-07, 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REZARF

Need a little help here.

I am debating between two options for mounting my RTT on top of the trailer. I have two possibilities and I need your advice.

I own a Yakima Rack system that can be attached to a rain gutter. I like the off the shelf parts, the finished look and the fact that I already own it. Downsides to this are, the RTT doesn't mount that well to it, and one or the other will need to be modified (probably the RTT). I also need to fab up a rain gutter onto the lid, which is starting to add pounds by the minute.

My other option is three or four fixed bolted or welded crossbars on the top of the lid. This would allow me to mount the tent in a super solid fashion and it would be permanent, and to make a custom slot for a fold up table. It would also double for hauling plywood or sheet goods in the future. Downside is weight and I would have to fab them up, no biggie just one more thing on the list. I would bend the same square tubing I used for the fenders while I have the die...

...what say you!?

Thanks in advance!

Rezarf <><

after what mine went thru, definately bolted/welded bars are the way to go. Just keep remembering - trailers get bounced and beat to hell and back, so what ever's going to be the strongest.

and along those lines, speaking of strongest, i got some thicker tubing for my rtt rack and hopefully this week ill be fabbing up a new rack like the one you illustrated for me in the pics.

REZARF · 12-02-07, 08:44 PM

Howdy folks.

I am at a crossroads...

I am at the point of adding sheet metal to the frame I built up and I am trying to decide between steel and aluminum. Here are my thoughts on each. Care to chime in? I hope so :thumb:

Aluminum:
First, I like the idea of no rust on the aluminum panels, that and the fact that it wouldn't require a paint finish for protection is a huge plus, and offsets its initial higher purchase cost. The weight makes good sense too. My only concern is fastening the aluminum to the steel frame. I have been researching a combo of marine grade adhesive & rivets... there is also a product for the semi trailer industry that is a sealing "tape" that replaces mechanical fasteners... it is wild stuff for sure. 3M amazes me!

I may still make the lid out of 18ga. steel to "hide" the rivets.

Steel:
If I were to go steel the costs are much cheaper and I can always come back and weld things to it and modify it easier... that might be nice. The idea of rust on a trailer and my 40 isn't appealing

However, steel can take a beating and keep going strong as well. Painting/undercoating will keep the rust at bay but in all reality it might be an uphill battle.

Let me know what you thinks! :hill:

Degnol · 12-02-07, 08:47 PM

I vote steel. Weldable and the weight is not going to make that much difference.

Ed

spressomon · 12-02-07, 10:05 PM

FYI...the Yakima crossbars are steel. Granted they are vinyl coated but you could either paint your steel crossbars with epoxy paint, powder coat or have them Rhino'd (or equiv.).

Do you foresee carrying anything other than your RTT on your trailer lid/top? The Yakima would be beneficial if you are going to carry bikes, canoe, even lumber...otherwise I think it's a toss up.

What RTT do you have/are you going with? You just want to plan for any overhang...so that when the top is tilted to the 'open' position the RTT won't snag/bind/hit/catch any part of your trailer. I had to raise the effective crossbar height on my AT Horizon when I went with the Maggiolina...otherwise when open it would hit/bind on the side box...

REZARF · 12-02-07, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spressomon

FYI...the Yakima crossbars are steel. Granted they are vinyl coated but you could either paint your steel crossbars with epoxy paint, powder coat or have them Rhino'd (or equiv.).

Do you foresee carrying anything other than your RTT on your trailer lid/top? The Yakima would be beneficial if you are going to carry bikes, canoe, even lumber...otherwise I think it's a toss up.

What RTT do you have/are you going with? You just want to plan for any overhang...so that when the top is tilted to the 'open' position the RTT won't snag/bind/hit/catch any part of your trailer. I had to raise the effective crossbar height on my AT Horizon when I went with the Maggiolina...otherwise when open it would hit/bind on the side box...

Actually my lid flips up from the rear with the hinge on the leading edge. Weight isn't as much the issue as function.

spressomon · 12-03-07, 08:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by REZARF

Actually my lid flips up from the rear with the hinge on the leading edge. Weight isn't as much the issue as function.

Drew: If you are thinking about a Maggiolina/Columbus (not saying you are...just pointing this out if you are...) you just need to make sure you will have enough crossbar height to keep the hinge side of of either from hitting your nose box when you tilt it open...

REZARF · 12-03-07, 10:51 AM

I have a Mombassa tent... no upgraded tent in the near future. Don't let the trailer fool you this is still being built on a tight budget.

Drew

REZARF · 12-06-07, 09:42 PM

So after talking it over with a few experts

I have landed on steel for the floor and skins. There are a few factors, one is cost, two is weldability, three is strength, four is electrolosis, five is I live in the dry west.

That said I hope to start skinning this thing within the week.

J-man · 12-07-07, 08:29 AM

after finishing mine, i think i would have preferred all steel skins for the sides, but my diamond plate is doing its job for now.

polarweasel · 12-08-07, 10:35 PM

Right on, Drew. That's looking awesome. You'll be able to drag that thing to breakfast in January, at this rate!

REZARF · 12-09-07, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by polarweasel

Right on, Drew. That's looking awesome. You'll be able to drag that thing to breakfast in January, at this rate!

January would be nice we'll see how it goes.

inthewall · 12-10-07, 04:13 PM

X2 on steel. Riveted aluminum will rattle and eventually rivets will fail. Im always replacing rivets on my snowmobile trailer.

11-26-07, 04:10 PM	#301
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	Here are a few new pics. Pic one: A little overall veiw of where I am at. Pic two: How the front rack will sit once the lid is created. Pic three: Rough placement of fenders and how they will eventually look. They will be cut down to sid on top of the cargo box bottom rail and will be bolted to the sheet metal. Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

11-26-07, 04:12 PM	#302
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	Two more Pic 1: Wheel that I attached using some grade 8 bolts to the bottom of the skid. I need to finish it up still but it does the job. Makes life SO much easier. I got a pnuematic wheel rated for 1000 lbs and it swivles with a greasable zirk fitting. Cool thing is, unbolt 4 bolts and I still have the skid. Pic 2: Where the propane tank mount will eventually live. Enjoy! Drew Attached Images __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

11-26-07, 05:05 PM	#303
sseaman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 1,355	progress is looking good __________________ 91 FJ80 318k, spare tire mod, custom roof rack----SOLD 98 4runner 136k 98 Avalon 138k

11-26-07, 07:59 PM	#304
spressomon IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Reno Posts: 4,901	Drew: Looks great! I think you should plan to attend one of our Nevada off-road tours/excursion/adventure trips next spring for your break-in cruize! __________________ Modded '99 for overlanding/exploring: 35's, 4.88's, AO drawers, Slee rr, TJM fr, ARB fr locker, ear candy, Waeco CF-50, PowerGate with 2nd battery, home brew sliders & t-case skid plate, 9.5XP/X-line, LF 170's, OEM 864's, Foxes x 4, 12mm BL, Carl's UCAs, ... KE7NCM

11-27-07, 08:23 AM	#305
Jacket IH8MUD Junior Join Date: May 2007 Location: Colorado TLCA# 17718 Posts: 128	Lookin really good Drew! Amazing work there. __________________ 2006 Tacoma, slightly built 1976 FJ40

11-27-07, 03:01 PM	#306
sseaman IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 1,355	what are you using for bending your tubing? __________________ 91 FJ80 318k, spare tire mod, custom roof rack----SOLD 98 4runner 136k 98 Avalon 138k

11-30-07, 10:38 AM	#308
AxleIke IH8MUD Rookie Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 50	Looking great. Heres to hoping your tail bone mends in time for you to use it this next summer.

12-02-07, 04:18 PM	#309
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	Need a little help here. I am debating between two options for mounting my RTT on top of the trailer. I have two possibilities and I need your advice. I own a Yakima Rack system that can be attached to a rain gutter. I like the off the shelf parts, the finished look and the fact that I already own it. Downsides to this are, the RTT doesn't mount that well to it, and one or the other will need to be modified (probably the RTT). I also need to fab up a rain gutter onto the lid, which is starting to add pounds by the minute. My other option is three or four fixed bolted or welded crossbars on the top of the lid. This would allow me to mount the tent in a super solid fashion and it would be permanent, and to make a custom slot for a fold up table. It would also double for hauling plywood or sheet goods in the future. Downside is weight and I would have to fab them up, no biggie just one more thing on the list. I would bend the same square tubing I used for the fenders while I have the die... ...what say you!? Thanks in advance! Rezarf <>< __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

12-02-07, 04:40 PM	#310
Degnol Noaccount Webwheeler Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kansastitty TLCA# 14529 Posts: 6,477	What about a stake pocket right in front of your fender and one right in front of your rear bumper that could serve as mounting points when you wanted to fit the RTT or just a naked rack to carry plywood? OTOH, if your tie down rail is going to be mounted to the outside like your last pic, can't you fab up a simple attachment to it? Ed __________________ There is nothing so depraved as a man in the depths of an ether binge '66FJ40, Fresh 2F, H42/Orion(By Poser...LCR4WD), ARB Front/rear(By Poser...LCR4WD), MetalTech Cage installed by Poser, Screw-ups fixed(by Poser) 4WDB Corvette Master, Mini Truck PS, 3.5" Lift, Warn 8274, 33s on stockers

12-02-07, 05:41 PM	#311
Exiled Wagon Wheeler Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Round Rock, TX TLCA# 4080 Posts: 1,445	My vote of for custom bolted crossbars. You've come this far to get a complete, custom solution, why tie yourself to a solution that doesn't quite work because it's off-the-shelf parts? Sell the Yakima! __________________ 1999 UZJ100 "the Watermelon"

12-02-07, 07:03 PM	#313
Degnol Noaccount Webwheeler Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kansastitty TLCA# 14529 Posts: 6,477	OK, then I would fab some welded-on mounts to the lid and just make sure the sides bear the load. You can still use some sort of "plug-in" stake pocket to allow it to be removed from the lid when you did not need it. You can figger it out as you have already done some great engineering on this thing already! Ed __________________ There is nothing so depraved as a man in the depths of an ether binge '66FJ40, Fresh 2F, H42/Orion(By Poser...LCR4WD), ARB Front/rear(By Poser...LCR4WD), MetalTech Cage installed by Poser, Screw-ups fixed(by Poser) 4WDB Corvette Master, Mini Truck PS, 3.5" Lift, Warn 8274, 33s on stockers

12-02-07, 08:44 PM	#315
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	Howdy folks. I am at a crossroads... I am at the point of adding sheet metal to the frame I built up and I am trying to decide between steel and aluminum. Here are my thoughts on each. Care to chime in? I hope so :thumb: Aluminum: First, I like the idea of no rust on the aluminum panels, that and the fact that it wouldn't require a paint finish for protection is a huge plus, and offsets its initial higher purchase cost. The weight makes good sense too. My only concern is fastening the aluminum to the steel frame. I have been researching a combo of marine grade adhesive & rivets... there is also a product for the semi trailer industry that is a sealing "tape" that replaces mechanical fasteners... it is wild stuff for sure. 3M amazes me! I may still make the lid out of 18ga. steel to "hide" the rivets. Steel: If I were to go steel the costs are much cheaper and I can always come back and weld things to it and modify it easier... that might be nice. The idea of rust on a trailer and my 40 isn't appealing However, steel can take a beating and keep going strong as well. Painting/undercoating will keep the rust at bay but in all reality it might be an uphill battle. Let me know what you thinks! :hill: __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

12-02-07, 08:47 PM	#316
Degnol Noaccount Webwheeler Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kansastitty TLCA# 14529 Posts: 6,477	I vote steel. Weldable and the weight is not going to make that much difference. Ed __________________ There is nothing so depraved as a man in the depths of an ether binge '66FJ40, Fresh 2F, H42/Orion(By Poser...LCR4WD), ARB Front/rear(By Poser...LCR4WD), MetalTech Cage installed by Poser, Screw-ups fixed(by Poser) 4WDB Corvette Master, Mini Truck PS, 3.5" Lift, Warn 8274, 33s on stockers

12-02-07, 10:05 PM	#317
spressomon IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Reno Posts: 4,901	FYI...the Yakima crossbars are steel. Granted they are vinyl coated but you could either paint your steel crossbars with epoxy paint, powder coat or have them Rhino'd (or equiv.). Do you foresee carrying anything other than your RTT on your trailer lid/top? The Yakima would be beneficial if you are going to carry bikes, canoe, even lumber...otherwise I think it's a toss up. What RTT do you have/are you going with? You just want to plan for any overhang...so that when the top is tilted to the 'open' position the RTT won't snag/bind/hit/catch any part of your trailer. I had to raise the effective crossbar height on my AT Horizon when I went with the Maggiolina...otherwise when open it would hit/bind on the side box... __________________ Modded '99 for overlanding/exploring: 35's, 4.88's, AO drawers, Slee rr, TJM fr, ARB fr locker, ear candy, Waeco CF-50, PowerGate with 2nd battery, home brew sliders & t-case skid plate, 9.5XP/X-line, LF 170's, OEM 864's, Foxes x 4, 12mm BL, Carl's UCAs, ... KE7NCM

12-03-07, 10:51 AM	#320
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	I have a Mombassa tent... no upgraded tent in the near future. Don't let the trailer fool you this is still being built on a tight budget. Drew __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

12-06-07, 09:42 PM	#321
REZARF IH8MUD Lifer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Louisville, CO TLCA# 13041 Posts: 2,839	So after talking it over with a few experts I have landed on steel for the floor and skins. There are a few factors, one is cost, two is weldability, three is strength, four is electrolosis, five is I live in the dry west. That said I hope to start skinning this thing within the week. __________________ Drew F. Rising Sun 4x4 Club 76 FJ40, 85 fj60 Engine and Ignition, 35" MTR's, Warn 8074, 4" of lift TPI, snorkeled, racked, Mini-truck P/S... and sometimes running. Friends don't let friends drive Thornbirds... My camping trailer build up thread.

12-07-07, 08:29 AM	#322
J-man IH8MUD Junior Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: West Los Angeles Posts: 124	after finishing mine, i think i would have preferred all steel skins for the sides, but my diamond plate is doing its job for now. __________________ 2003 Land Cruiser v8 4x4 2000 4Runner v6 5spd 4x4 - Turbo'd and Baja ready... 1999 4Runner v6 5spd 4x4 1998 4Runner v6 5spd 4x4 factory locker 1997 4Runner v6 Auto 4x4 All have Saw's/OME combo lifts & custom roof racks My Baja Trailer Build: http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=179520

12-08-07, 10:35 PM	#323
polarweasel Where's mah cruzah? Join Date: May 2004 Location: Boulder, Colorado TLCA# 17558 Posts: 782	Right on, Drew. That's looking awesome. You'll be able to drag that thing to breakfast in January, at this rate! __________________ 84 FJ60, locked and lifted and dismantled with Mercedes diesel 1982 BJ42 loud and slow daily driver on 33s Horsetooth 4-Wheelers

12-10-07, 04:13 PM	#325
inthewall IH8MUD Regular Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Elko, Nevada Posts: 420	X2 on steel. Riveted aluminum will rattle and eventually rivets will fail. Im always replacing rivets on my snowmobile trailer. __________________ 68 Fj40 M101 Trailer 05Tundra 07 Fj