Want to drill straight accurate holes in frame

notaf-ingjeep · 10-29-09, 02:32 PM

I am looking to drill a couple new mounting positions in my lower link brackets for my 4-link. I made the mistake of not drilling out the brackets with a few mounting positions. It is now welded on the frame in a serious fashion, I'm not cutting it off. I want to do some experimenting with my set up, and want to drill these new holes straight. It will need a 3/4" hole through two 5/8" thick plates on each bracket. I have a big Milwaukee drill w/1/2" chuck, but drilling an accurate hole this size, while trying to hold it horizontally is nearly impossible.

Any ideas on some kind of a drill press unit, or maybey a "cradle" for my drill, that will clamp on the frame so I can drill a good straight hole? What it would be called and where to find one perhaps?

If you check out my thread in the hardcore section titled "this is not a f-king jeep" there are pics of the brackets in question.

thanks

KLF · 10-29-09, 03:49 PM

You want something like this:

Power Tools - Drill Presses - Compact Electromagnetic Drill Press - 450 RPM

Maybe you could rent one?

notaf-ingjeep · 10-29-09, 10:02 PM

I was looking at msc direct those things are very expensive, $1350+. I'll have to look around to find a rental, I don't know how easy it will be to find. I may build a jig tomorrow that will help me keep the drill straight while I drill by hand.

Doug_S · 10-30-09, 09:36 AM

If you can find a thick enough piece of metal then install a set of drill guides/bushings available from a place like McMaster Carr. It's an easy way to drill straight holes without the cost of buying a magnetic drill press.

Plowboy · 10-30-09, 10:50 AM

This will really sound strange, but I have done this many times. Go to the plumbing section of a hardware store. Depending on the size of your bit, purchase a section of pipe just short of the depth you need to drill that will just slide over your bit. By the threaded flatplate for that pipe size. Thread the flatplate and pipe together and clamp over where you need to drill. The pipe acts as a guide and you get a straght hole.
If you cant find a pipe close enough a hollowed wood dowel in the pipe will work to take up the space.

Chop Shop · 10-30-09, 12:23 PM

Like I said in your build thread, just drill that shit. Its not surgery.

If you drill crooked holes, the heims will center them selves fine. Most heims will tollerate alot of missallignment.

If you drill uneven holes (drivers side to pass side) just adjust one of the heims till its the same. Thats why the heims have threads, to adjust them.

Your builds performance is not going to hinge on these two holes. Trust me on that one.

Chop Shop · 10-30-09, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Doug_S

If you can find a thick enough piece of metal then install a set of drill guides/bushings available from a place like McMaster Carr. It's an easy way to drill straight holes without the cost of buying a magnetic drill press.

I have only been on this site for a week now and have seen a MAGDRILL suggested three times for dumb stuff. I worked on equiptment for along time and I hate using a magdrill. its a PITA.

Theres three ways to do things.

1 the right way
2 the wrong way
3 the overly complex expensive way.

I have noticed alot of #3 here.

notaf-ingjeep · 10-30-09, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Plowboy

This will really sound strange, but I have done this many times. Go to the plumbing section of a hardware store. Depending on the size of your bit, purchase a section of pipe just short of the depth you need to drill that will just slide over your bit. By the threaded flatplate for that pipe size. Thread the flatplate and pipe together and clamp over where you need to drill. The pipe acts as a guide and you get a straght hole.
If you cant find a pipe close enough a hollowed wood dowel in the pipe will work to take up the space.

This is what I'm planning, it isn't worth being a perfectionist here. One of the guys I work with at the machine shop made this suggestion yesterday. It is like a dowling jig used for wood working. I will probably build it from some scrap 316 stainless I have at the shop. It is a harder alloy than the steel bracket, this will keep the jig from being cut before the steel is, as the jig will be reused several times. I will drill two 3/4" one just larger at .775" holes in a block on the mill. I will sleeve the larger one for the drill bit, one will bolt into the hole I am relocating. On the mill I can make the holes exactly 1.5" apart on this jig. This should keep me fairly accurate all around! Thanks for the great suggestion plowboy, would be a great way for others to build this, especially! I am lucky to have access to a machine shop to build my crap!

won't be much work + I'll get to use the tig welder, and that's just fun!
Thanks to all!!!!!!!!!!!