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ZeroRust on 40 Boby completed

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by 1973Guppie, Apr 20, 2003.

  1. 1973Guppie

    1973Guppie

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    Just finished with the zerorust on the top and bottom of the cab on my 40. I NEVER want to do this again. MANY hours with sandpaper, scraper, rotary wire brush, and hand tools. I am happy with the way things came out though. The zrust goes on fairly thick and has is very adhering once the 2nd coat goes on. I do hope it lasts. So far I am happy with it though. Just posted some more pics on the link below. Next is the new NV4500 tranny. Slowly she grows........

    Noah


    Noah Baldwin
    1973 FJ40
    San Diego, CA
    99 V8 Vortec/SM465/SAG PS/33'BFG MT/Ranger OD/Stock TC/ARB's F+R/Onboard Air/4' Lift/Rear Storage/Soon to be Beige with Black Trim!
    http://www.imagestation.com/members/1973Guppie
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  2. Gus

    Gus SILVER Star

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    So would you recommend Zero-rust to others? I've been using POR-15 with goood results on my cruiser but was thinking of trying out Z-rust. &nbsp:Does it fade with prolonged exposure to the sun like POR-15? &nbsp:Did you use the spray cans or did you brush it on. :G
     
  3. 1973Guppie

    1973Guppie

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    I researched both por 15 and zerorust when I was trying to decide what to use. I did by no means go down to bare metal on my frame or my underbody. I did however take a lot of time to wire brush, degrease, sand and get an overall smooth surface where there was little flaking or lifting of the old undercoating or other paint. I was told directly by the por15 guys that their product wouldn't work well for me unless I was going to be applying it to sandblasted metal or rusted metal. I believe the por actually sinks into the bare metal somewhat. For this reason and my specific application I looked for alternatives and found zerorust. Other spoke highly of it and when I called the manufacturer and described my situation they said it should work fine as long as the surface was prepped like I described above. They also reccomend using their "prep-step" which is basically the same thing as basic TSP (tri sodium phosphate) that you can buy at any hardware store. BE CAREFUL when using TSP, I found out the hard way that this stuff can give you a bad chemical burn, all down my back, fun stuff :). The TSP actually changes the PH level of the metal which I guess in turn makes adhesion of the paint better, at least this is what I was told. All in all I am happy with it and would reccomend it to others who are in the same boat as i was and are not sandblasting their metal down to bare metal. I have also heard good things about por15 as well but most of the success stories seemed to be with more extensive restorations. I decided to use the zrust because I felt it would be an easier, more effective solution for my situation. The first coat goes on kinda thin but when you apply the 2nd coat it goes on very thick and adheres very well to itself. The first coat works almost like a primer for the 2nd coat. UV I was told was not a main concern with the undercoating, axles, etc. as they won't see much sun. The areas of my cab that will see sun are going to get sprayed with their clearcoat product: "crystal coat". This is basically their answer to the uv problem. I was told that it takes many years for any UV problems to arise. As for longevity I can't answer for that, I will have to wait and see but for now I am happy with the product and it really does seem to be a very solid covering when it dries. I used the brush on type. This I would reccomend unless you are doing a small area as it takes quite a bit of it to do a large area and it will just go on thicker with a brush. I did get a can of the stuff to get into unreachable spots though. So far I have used about a little over a gallon on the bottom and top of the body and the frame. the rest of the 2nd gallon is for the axles, gas tank, and whatever else. I have some pics up on my site of the zrust if you wish to take a look. HTH.

    Noah
     
  4. woodsfj40

    woodsfj40

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    I have been using Zero Rust for about a year now. Nothing on the scale you have though. Most of what I have done is little stuff using the spray cans.

    So far I have been very happy with it, but it takes a little time for it to cure to a real hard finish.

    From the spray can it goes on easily and coats very well. After a day or so it is still somewhat soft to the touch, but after about a week it is pretty hard. I am planning on doing what you have done in the near future.
     
  5. 1973Guppie

    1973Guppie

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    I agree, it does take awhile to dry completely. I although have the time as the truck will be on jacks for awhile until I finish the SO suspension. Haven't used it out of a spray can yet. I was reccomending using the gallon because it would be much cheaper if you are doing a large area than spray cans. Either I guess would work fine though. Spray can would probably go on more even if you could afford to buy that many cans.
     
  6. woodsfj40

    woodsfj40

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    Like I said, everything I have done to this point has been small stuff so the spray cans have worked well, but you are correct, it would be pretty expensive to use them for a larger project.

    I did talk to them though and they said that you can spray the stuff from a spray gun. When I get ready to do my frame and undercarriage, I will probably give that a try.