Yard Find (1 Viewer)

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Lookin good Ken! Sorry bout the lad that fell into the creek.
 
Well got the gear box, transfer case, radiator, tail shafts in today. Feeling pretty happy :clap: Next step is to start on the tub and just a few little bits and pieces around the engine.
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Well done Ken
You are making good progress.
Keep chipping away at the project and it's amazing how much you get done.
My build
I bleed the brakes and clutch today with Nats help.
Still waiting on the custom design headers. Promised this Monday but I have heard that before.
I found a carby specialist that claims to know the Toyota carby inside out .
I will keep you informed just in case you need his services at a later date.
Looking forward to your next lot of photos.
Cheers Peter



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Thanks Pete it is good to see a bit of progress. Will look at getting the tub sandblasted soon. What carbie are you putting back on.
 
Hi Ken
Carby OEM is what all say is best.
I brought an aftermarket and fitted this before starting the pull down. I could never get the motor to idle properly .
The carby guy said yes that would be right.

Sand blasting the tub.
Give this one a lot of thought before proceeding.
There are lots of pitfalls here.
Sanding may take a bit longer but you have a lot better control over panel damage.
Once into sanding you can get a lot done in one day.
For my build sanding was the right call.
Cheers Peter


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Hey Ken,

looking great so far.

I've got just 1 question. It could be camera angle or it could be just me, BUT in post #177 you have this...

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picture. It seems to me that in an event where the leafspring bottoms out against the stopblock, your brakeline gets squished???
 
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Thanks Pete she is getting there. I currently have the original Aisan Carbie in getting fully cleaned and rebuilt. I will be talking to the guy who is doing the sandblasting a fair bit before I go ahead with it. The only reason I am looking at getting the tub blasted is that it will just be too big of a job to do properly by hand. I will be doing all the rest of the panels by hand that way I can leave a good base coat of paint on there. I figure the tub will handle it as the steel is a lot thicker than newer vehicles.

Micdon,

I you have a good eye mate as I did look at that and had the same concern with the brake lines. When I get it all back together I will have another good look at it and see how it looks. If I think that this is going to be of concern once she is up and running I will drive it down to Cairns where I got the brakes done and get them to re-do those lines.
 
I'd also get them to put some nice curves in the hard lines off the cylinders.
 
Hi Ken
I have had the pleasure of meeting Micdon and his lovely girlfriend.
Micdon did the body sealing for me.
Yes he has a good eye to spot the brake line.
Cheers


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Got bored this morning so I decided to start on the tub. I started with a 4" angle grinder with a flapper disc and a paint scraper which took me about two and a half hours just to do the ribs so I got a small tin of paint stripper to see how that would go and it worked a lot better but left the last of the undercoat on when I finished I gave it a coat of Phosphoric Acid rust converter and I found that this dissolved the last of the undercoat and all it took was a green kitchen scoured to finish it like this.
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Hi Ken
See no need for blasting.
Have you a air sander? If so 80 grit is the go.
There are an array of paint removing wheels available.
You just need a good compressor to run air tools.
If you keep up with the sanding I will post photos of my tools of destruction
Cheers


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Thanks Pete. I will probably still give it a quick blast just to finish it off and for places that I can't get into but by doing this it will only need a light blast and I stand less chance of warping the panels. As for a compressor and air sander I don't have one but wish I did.
 
Another day stripping paint. If I keep this rate up I wont need to get the tub sand blasted.
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Hi Ken
The tub looks in good shape.
Shame as your do far away as I have a spare compressor I would lend you.
I had a call from my exhaust man today . Said I should get the headers tomorrow. Just my luck as I head back to China next week.
Did you see the 1965 tray back on EBay With the rear split window?
Can't say I have ever seen one like that before.
Keep the photos coming.
Cheers Peter



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Thanks Pete it is in pretty good nick.
Thanks for the offer of the compressor but it looks like I have managed to get one from a mate along with an air sander.
Sorry to hear that you have to go back to China you must be so close to finishing off your 40 now.
I have seen the split window on a couple of 40's before but not too many.
I will keep going on the stripping of the inside but have spoken with a few people who have definitely said do not sand blast the tub. They have done it and all it has done is to increase the rust coming out in it after it has been painted due to the sand collecting in the seams and spot welds. So my thoughts now are that I will just keep going with what I am doing and where the paint is in good condition leave it on there and just give it a sand back and then repaint the whole thing. At least I know that I will have a good base under the top coat.
 
Hi Ken
You have made the right choice in sanding.
If the Toyota primer is still there after 30 years leave it there.
If you have access to a paint and panel shop get your self a purple paint removing wheel and a rotary wire brush.
A right angle scouring pad is also a good tool.
Once into the sanding I did start to enjoy.
Cheers Peter




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Looking a bit sadder under the drivers seat.

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Hi ken
What are your ideas for the floor repairs?
This could be one for Micdon to put his two cents worth in.
I have seen that panel as an after market and it may have been available from the guy in Rocky. Northern Four Wheel Drive spares? Don't know only guessing.
If that is the worst rust the tub has you are very lucky.
Were you able to track down the purple rust removing wheel?
They work so well . If not let me know and I will send some . I have leftovers.
You might want to start thinking about Eitch priming. What type? What is your final finish going to be?
Make sure all is compatible and once your decision is made stick all to the same brand.
I choose an Australian made product as recommended by the paint and panel shop and the painter.
To date very happy.
Foot note
Both the painter and the paint panel shop said this is a good Eitch primer for a novice to use.
Very easy to apply ( spray ) And most important very easy to sand.
Believe me I was a novice.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers Peter


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Pete, Didnt get time to have a look for the purple rust removal wheels. How much do you want for the ones that you have left over. As for the floor pan I think I will have to have a look at getting one and replacing it completely. What paint did you end up using on your rebuild. Did you end up doing the painting yourself or did you get someone else to paint it for you.
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Well that is just typical. Possible cyclone coming, heaps of rain and moisture in the air. Also found out I may be going away for 5 weeks with work and have bare steel in the tub. Hooked in a bit more today and then gave the tub a hit with a rattle can of undercoat just to protect it a bit.
 
Hi Ken
Five weeks away ! Sounds like my job.
This is a quick trip for me as I fly home Friday then sadly I will be in Melbourne for 2 weeks so not much will happen to my build till after Easter.
The purple wheels I will donate to your cause.
Paint I asked lots and lots of questions here. The Australian product was hard to beat plus I had paint factory after sales help.
The name of the product ?
Why do you always ask questions I can not answer . I will give you details on my return.
Another cyclone coming is not good weather to paint in.
The rattle can will do the job to stop the surface rust setting in.
A good grease and wax remover will remove when the time comes to Eitch prime.
I can tell you that I used a two pac Eitch prime and does this stuff stick to bare metal.
Sanding after wards gives encouraging results.
Cheers Peter



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