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Wolf Steel Quarter Panel repair parts???

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by jackrabbit, Dec 10, 2007.

  1. If your oil pan is leaking at the bottom, DO NOT TRY TO REPAIR IT. I used 100 feet of mig wire trying to build one back up. The metal guard on the oil pan is just a rust trap the way it is designed. Next time I buy a new pan and fill the void around the guard with rtv.

    QUESTION, has anyone used the Wolf Steel rear quarter panel repair parts on an FJ60? I read some old stuff from 2005 on the forum but couldn't find anything recent. Please help. I don't want to waste $500 for junk. Thanks.
    Jack Rabbit

    1984 FJ-60 Stock 170K
    1987 FJ-60 OME 3" lift, Weber, headers, 210K and still 15 mpg average.
  2. brownbear

    brownbear Mod in Hibernation Moderator

    Messages:
    6,613
    Location:
    True North Strong and Free
    got a link?

    I think I used the wolf panel.... but I dunno. The lines were bland and not worth much IMOP
  3. Tinker

    Tinker

    Messages:
    2,847
    Location:
    Larkspur, CO
  4. Zack1978

    Zack1978 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,549
    Any more info on these Wolf repair panels?

    It seems the only other option is the CCOT repair panels, which are much more.


    Thanks,
    Zack
  5. Moby

    Moby

    Messages:
    1,235
    Location:
    Trying to stack dimes
    I am currently having my quarters repaired with CCOT patch panels. The shop that is doing the work is a resto only type of shop and they were pretty happy with their fit. I saw it in metal earlier this week. Looked good. These aren't as cheap as the Wolf panels and they don't cover as much but they are 18ga. The shop that is doing the work is taking lots of pictures so I'll post a full thread when it is done (end of next week) so that other can see the fit.
  6. Zack1978

    Zack1978 SILVER Star

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    2,549
    Great! The pass side of my 60 is the worst, so the pictures would give me an accurate idea of how much metal the CCOT part covers. The CCOT web site description/picture of teh part is not very good, and seemingly not accurate.


    Zack
  7. NYNick

    NYNick

    Messages:
    476
    Location:
    Westchester County, NY
    I'm right in the middle of buying/negotiating/estimating this repair for both sides of the truck. Both autobody shops I've talked to about Wolf Steel new, CCOT new or used panels from Cruiserparts or SOR have recommended I go with used, have the cut done 4" above the bottom of the window, and cut 6" in to include the outerwheelhouse. I also need the dogleg.

    I'm leaning towards Crusierparts in NH, because I'm on the East Coast and freight from CA would be almost as much as the used parts. Does anyone have any experience from Cruiserparts? These shops are nervous about the fit and quality of the aftermarket panels.
  8. Moby

    Moby

    Messages:
    1,235
    Location:
    Trying to stack dimes
    The CCOT pictures are accurate as far as coverage. The panels do not include the front dogleg or extend all the way to the rear (they stop in front of the bumper "pocket"). On my passenger side the bumper pocket needed to be replaced. A full panel would have helped here, but I chose the shop that I'm using because they are a full resto shop and scratch fabricating patch pieces is no big deal for them.

    The inner wheel well lip/pinch weld area was shot on both sides. These had to be rebuilt. As soon as I saw the pictures I had them but open the front doglegs as well. I'm sure glad that I did - even though there was no rust coming through on either front it was just a matter of time. They cleaned, patched in a bit of new metal in places, and sealed the front halves as well. The Wolf panels might have been better here since they include the front dogleg but in my case all the outer needed was to be cleaned up, sealed and welded back in. It was the inner piece that needed portions replaced. None of the aftermarket panels or factory panels will include this, and you won't know what else needs replacing until you get in there.

    Here are some pics that show the inner lip damage:

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 12, 2011
  9. Zack1978

    Zack1978 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,549

    The work looks great...Would you mind saying a ballpark figure of what this work is costing you?

    Zack
  10. Moby

    Moby

    Messages:
    1,235
    Location:
    Trying to stack dimes
    It will be around $6k all done (including tax, they bill weekly) not including the patch panels and new tailgate. I'm not having the whole truck painted, just the repaired sections. So that price includes rust repair of both quarters, doglegs, rear sill, new tailgate, rear door hinge points (including additional bracing), and a couple of other random spots. It also includes resealing the drip rails and sealing the interior of the quarters and new tailgate. It's not cheap, but this truck is important to me. I've had it a long time, and I plan on never giving it up. So to me it's worth it.
  11. Zack1978

    Zack1978 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,549
    This is what I need to replace on the pass side, so the CCOT panel is not large enough....

    Zack

    Attached Files:


  12. Moby

    Moby

    Messages:
    1,235
    Location:
    Trying to stack dimes
    I would try to get a used factory piece that includes the pockets. I would assume going in that you're going to need to fabricate portions of the inner panels as well, along the bottom of the quarters and through the wheel wells. You can take off the interior panels and take a look down into the quarters with a mirror to see how bad the damage is to the inner panels.
  13. FJ40Jim

    FJ40Jim The Cruiser Whisperer SILVER Star

    Messages:
    7,763
    Location:
    Lancaster, Ohio, USA
    Zack, what about having the body shop cutoff the lower rear quarters? Metal that is not there will never rust again.

    Like THIS.

    search for "quarter panel chop" or "...trim"
  14. StevoJonesFJ60

    StevoJonesFJ60 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    1,975
    Location:
    Central NJ
    I just chopped my quarterpanels, its really not too bad to do. Just takes some time, a welder and if you want it to look nice some bondo. Once its all sealed and painted up you won't have to worry about rust ever again.
  15. Moby

    Moby

    Messages:
    1,235
    Location:
    Trying to stack dimes
    The wheel wells will probably still need to be repaired with a quarter chop - but that can be scratch built pretty easily with a shrinker/stretcher and a brake. Bend 18 or 20ga pieces to 90* (or buy 90* bends). Shrink/stretch to match the factory wheelwell contour. I have a shrinker/stretcher and this was my plan before I decided to outsource the work (I decided that I wanted my first serious body work attempt to be on a car that I cared less about).
  16. haryv

    haryv

    Messages:
    1,305
    Location:
    North of the 49th parellel
    my inner fender as well as the wheel well opening in this thread are in bad shape on my vehicle. I could drill out the spot welds and do the install my self.

    How many of you are mechanical inclined like my self and done your own body work? I did work in a body shop once and on occasion, would be asked to drill out the spot welds out of panels. Was not hard.

    what would a used rust free fender wheel well cost? It would be easier for the owner I think to cut out the entire wheel well section a few inches outside of the spot welds and just ship it that way. Let me do the work and take these pieces apart, then weld in these sections.
  17. Zack1978

    Zack1978 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,549
    Hmmmm...That idea might work out. I hate looking at the rust.


    Zack
  18. STUDLY 60

    STUDLY 60

    Messages:
    144
    Location:
    MICHIGAN, T.C.
    Jackrabbit- I did replace my quarters and doglegs about a year ago after getting hit by a iceberg. Mine were too rusted for the CCOT panels and my wallet was too lean for factory replacements after buying rust free doors and liftgate. Overall fit was ok, They took a little adjusting, but I expected that. My only gripe was that the bodyline wasn't as defined as OEM. I manipulated them as much as possible and they look good. No one has ever noticed the difference, But, I know there is a diference. Still better than rusty panels. Be prepared for more work chasing rust than you expect because you will have to, I promise. Best of luck whatever you decide.
  19. Zack1978

    Zack1978 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    2,549
    So are you saying that you used the Wolf Panels?


    Zack
  20. STUDLY 60

    STUDLY 60

    Messages:
    144
    Location:
    MICHIGAN, T.C.
    Yes I did use the Wolf panels


    QUOTE=Zack1978;6448098]So are you saying that you used the Wolf Panels?


    Zack[/QUOTE]

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