AltFuel What to look for in a diesel destined to run on bio? (1 Viewer)
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That is not correct.
Jet B, also called wide cut, is a distillate turbine fuel covering the naphtha and kerosene fractions.
It was originally developed to maximize jet fuel production per gallon of Crude oil refined.
It can be used as an alternative to JetA/ A-1.
Between 1951- 1995 it was the standard jet fuel used in the USAF where it was called JP4. But because it has a much lower flash point (-18C) than Jet A/ A1 (38C), JetB/JP4 is no longer redally available.
There is only significant demand for Jet B in very cold climates because it has a lower freeze point than Jet A1.
In every part of Canada Jet B is described by Canadian Specification CAN/CGSB 3.23.
Jet B is still available in canada.
If you are using something other than Jet B then do not call it Jet B. That is worse than Calling a Whopper a BigMac.
At least my ducks know what Jet B is and have their heads in the clear air.
Believe whatever you want to. This conversation is pointless.
Considering that I am correct I am sure I will.
My ducks asked me to correct one other mistake you made when you posted "...so the suppliers are simply combining avgas with avtur [JetA] to meet the JetB requirements." In Canada avtur is not Jet A, it is Jet A-1
I have a hjz77 running on wvo 2 tank system and I LOVE IT. Simon at tlc did the set up. you can find him here on mud, Great guy.
Has anyone used JetB or a JetB mix in a diesel here.
I have lots available to me but I havent found a recipe
specific to Jet B.
There are lots of people using Jet A and either adding nothing
or just a lubricity additive.
I have lots available to me but I havent found a recipe
specific to Jet B.
There are lots of people using Jet A and either adding nothing
or just a lubricity additive.
JetB is a good winter additive for biodiesel fuel mix to lower the gel point temperature, but unfortunately it can be difficult to find, fortunately gasoline is almost as good.
As I understand it, old stale gasoline is best, I think because it has a lower flash point and is less prone to premature ignition etc. Or something like that.
Not computer controlled. Simple mechanical control is best for alternative fuels. If operating in cold temperatures then an inline IP is best. B and H series Toyota engines are good examples.
Any diesel without modification can run Bio. Yes you should change older engines fuel lines over time, but no mods are needed. Ive been running B100 in my TDI, CRD and 2L engines for a long time with no issues. After a couple tanks you should change out your fuel filter as bio acts like a solvent and will clean your fuel system. All that stuff ends up in your filter.
That might be, however it's nasty stuff to handle, and is usually contaminated with water which has to be removed.
Japan diesel on Veggie oil
Anyone running a 1HD-T on veggie?
Nice fit of me as I have access to Jet A1 and it runs nice on that but would also like to look at Veggie in case my supply goes away.
mountaincoolcruiser
For my newly converted 96 80 series with a 1HD-T.
Anyone running a 1HD-T on veggie?
Nice fit of me as I have access to Jet A1 and it runs nice on that but would also like to look at Veggie in case my supply goes away.
mountaincoolcruiser
For my newly converted 96 80 series with a 1HD-T.
jetA1 has insufficient lubricity for piston engines, and wear will increase, especially the IP. I suggest adding at minimum 5% biodiesel or clean veg-oil.
I run a 13B-T on fuel mixes containing biodiesel, veg-oil, jetB, and ULSD.
I run a 13B-T on fuel mixes containing biodiesel, veg-oil, jetB, and ULSD.
Jet A1
Yes I agree Jet A1 needs lube. I have been running my golf TDI and my now sold BJ60 on Jet A1 for a long time with no issues but I do add Stanadyne to it.
Yes I agree Jet A1 needs lube. I have been running my golf TDI and my now sold BJ60 on Jet A1 for a long time with no issues but I do add Stanadyne to it.
I run B100 in my 1hz 5-6 months out of the year and reduce as temp drops... Dead of Maine winter I run B10-B15... Has yet to leave me stranded in the cold. I replace all the lines with viton lines when I dropped the engine in. I got a roll of it from McMaster Carr. Pricey but worth it. I have been running Bio for 5 years and just recently had to rebuild my IP and nozzles. Not sure if it was time or fuel related... In my eyes its worth it. I love the smell of BioDiesel in the morning.
I've been running SVO in my '91 7.3 IDI for 2 years. It runs a lot better on veg. than ULS diesel. In the winter I mix in 20% kerosene and that really thins the oil down. I'm a little wearie of burning 100WMO but I burn all mine, I just don't go out of my way to get it.
The H has only ran B99 or B50 unless I can't get bio. It runs much better on anything but ULS diesel. Off-road diesel is much better, but not as good as B100. I haven't got a SVO system on it yet, but will soon.
The H has only ran B99 or B50 unless I can't get bio. It runs much better on anything but ULS diesel. Off-road diesel is much better, but not as good as B100. I haven't got a SVO system on it yet, but will soon.
My 13B-T runs B40 in the summer and cold filtered B20 with 20% stale jetB in the winter, the remainder is pump ULSD. It's been around zero F recently with no problems and often run this mix to 20 below. It's just a bit 'slushy' at that temp but still runs OK. The key to trouble free winter operation is cold settling and filtering the mix so the HMPE components settle out and don't get into the vehicle tank. I pull a sample from the sedimenter bowl and place it in a clear jar on the porch so I can see what's likely happening to the mix in the tank. If you can't get stale jetB it can be approximated with 75% stove oil [kerosene] and 25% premium petrol. The 10% to 15% [in the tank] petrol additive is important for best winter operation.
A added a FPHE and connected it between the fuel feed pump and the filter with Parker 801 hose. I replaced the stock hose from the filter to the IP with P 801 when it got soft after about a year of hot fuel mix. No sign of any change in the P 801 hose after years of hot fuel mix. Everything else in the fuel system is stock.
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I've used SVO during fuel shortages/outages in eastern Africa (Malawi) while I worked there. I ran a KZJ95 quite frequently with a 50/50 SVO/diesel mix. I've Used 90% SVO in an HDJ80 on a trip to go pick up fuel out of country. My preference is for straight diesel, but my experience (in warm climates) is that you can get away with SVO in a pinch.
If you're in the middle of nowhere with a foreign face, the price of fuel often triples or quadruples. You can always find a little market, even in the bush that won't bat an eye at selling you cooking oil in large quantities for a near normal price. Just make sure you put it in your fuel tank behind a bush or you might start raising some questions and cause a run on cooking oil!
If you're in the middle of nowhere with a foreign face, the price of fuel often triples or quadruples. You can always find a little market, even in the bush that won't bat an eye at selling you cooking oil in large quantities for a near normal price. Just make sure you put it in your fuel tank behind a bush or you might start raising some questions and cause a run on cooking oil!
