what Oil do you use and Why? (1 Viewer)

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Currently:
Engine - Valvoline XLD 20W/50
Differentials - Valvoline 85W/140
Gearbox - Valvoline 85W/140
Transfercase - Valvoline 85W/140
Clutch/Brake Fluid - Nulon DOT 4
Wheel Bearings - Castrol HTB
Universal Joints - Penrite Moly

Future:
Engine - Valvoline Super Diesel 15W/40
Differentials - Valvoline 85W/140
Gearbox - Penrite LS90
Transfercase - penrite LS90
Clutch/Brake Fluid - Nulon DOT 4
Wheel Bearings - Castrol HTB
Universal Joints - Penrite Moly


Engine Oil is a real pain in making a choice.
City and/or Snow Driving - 15W/40
Country Town - 20W/50
Highway - 25W/60
 
There are a million articles written on oil tests. Which is best, which is worst? There are some that are better than others for sure, but what it comes down to is personal preference. I've always liked Castrol motor oils because my father (who used to build race engines) liked it. As for gear oils for the drivetrain, I use Valvoline stuff too. I change my fluids at least once a year. We do a lot of water crossings and mud runs in my area so I make sure and keep clean fluids in my rigs. You can probably do a search on Google on oil testings and read for a week solid. Just my 2 cents.
 
i go with castrol 20-50w 7 1/2 qrts of that and one qrt of lucos motor oil its a oil additive a lot thinker than almost all oils, really helps with oil pressure and keeping the engine lubed better. and since i do a lot of mud runs and four wheeling were there is a good chance of heating the engine up nicely it helps from frying your oil or over heating it so bad also. as for the rest its valveline
 
cheapest 5 qts of 15/40 and oil filter I managed a minit lube for about 5 years there isn't a big enough difference if you change it regularary.cut the tops off bunch of oil filters they are all basically the same inside


gear boxes gl5 and a bardoll gear additive like hypolube
 
I use Castrol 20W-50 throughout the year. I don't drive the Cruiser much in the winter, plus it doesn't get too cold here.

For gear oil, I use the cheapest stuff I can find, because I'm always replacing it when I go through deep water.
 
engine: valvoline 10W-40 with Napa Gold filters..keep finding it on sale at the local farm-fleet store.

tranny/transfer/diffs: cheapest 80W-90 I can get in a 5-gallon pail, usually the same farm-fleet store. I change 2-3 times a year so price is everything. (mud/water/sand/etc)

Bearings and u-joints: this ugly looking tan marine wheel bearing grease...supposedly more water resistant, but who knows. Not enuf more $$ than the cheap stuff to care, and yes, it's on the shelf at the local farm store too.

silly place outta have a cover charge...lol
 
fleet farm...the mans mall!

i use mobil in my car because thats what my old man has been using...like father like son i guess. plus the mobil bottle looks better........:G
 
6 quarts Castrol 10w-40 with one quart Lucas Oil Supplement(Keeps my low oil pressure under control enough to keep driving) Will change to 20w-50 at next oil change
Castrol 80/90 in diffs/tranny/transfer (front diff is about 20% grease leaked in :dunno:)
 
amsoil is good stuff but pricey run in the engine and nowhere else.then run the cheapest gear oil you can find.i run exxon superflo.1.99 1 step up from coastal.never had trouble in anything.
the key to any oil is maintanence.no matter what it is.
 
Got a cousin, works for (now owned by) Federal Mogul. He's the Plant Operations Engineer at the Manitowoc Plant. He's been in the piston ring manufacturing business for about 25+ yrs. Their testing has shown that THINNER is better.
At one time we had a Volvo turbo wagon, was using Castrol 20W-50. When I told him that, he almost went into convulsions. Been using Castrol 10W-30 for all the older stuff. Newer stuff; 97 and up, 5W-30.
 
When my dad bought his Porsche 911 new in 1981, it came with Valvoline 20W-50 in it from the factory (something like 13 quarts - in a 6 cylinder :eek:). He also uses the racing valvoline 20W-50 in his drag car (~650 HP small block camaro :D). So, that's what we've always used in everything.
 
I'm with Wayne_FJ40, the cheapest oil I can find, But I only use factory oil filters. I had a problem with non factory filters, leaks and low oil pressure. but if you keep the oil clean and change it often enough it doesn't matter. I do believe in a addative like Slick 50 for startup purposes only.
 
TMan-Fj60,
911's are air/oil cooled dry sump type motors, they have a big oil resevoir. I use Castrol products in all my stuff...just always have.
 
I was told by a mecanic to use whatevers cheepest, that is not pensoil.
 
I use whatevers cheapest in my 40, mini and ECHO. As long as it has the API doughnut on it, it's OK by me. I choose the engine in the 40 for it's replacability. It ain't getting nothing special. The 80 gets Mobil 1 because it hit 100K and I would like another 100K. I'm not convinced it's better, but for my baby it makes me feel better.
Just 'cause I haven't done the math yet...
8x1.50 = $12.00
8X6.00 = $40.00
100000/3000 = 33 changes
33 x 12 = 396.00
33 x 40 = 1320.00
Difference = 924.00 over 100,000 miles

hmmmmm. still not convinced it's worth it or not.

There is no reason to go thick on the cold number unless you have an 80 with the ominous cold start up rattle. My 80 gets 10-30 because it stopped the rattle. ECHO and mini get 5-30. 40 gets 10-40 cause it needs a fresh motor. 20w-50 is for race engines and vehicles with no bearings left.
 

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