What is the normal engine temperature fzj80 (1 Viewer)
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ChaseTruck
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'85. Has kept the motor cool for the last dozen years
richardlillard1
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I hear he's going to release one that 80 compatible, maybe we can get a group buy going?
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What about older models? Where are people putting the sending unit? Too lazy to search right now
sbman
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I saw 219 on mine going up a long grade with outside air temp @102 F. This was at 60 mph, I don't know if a fan is going to help. The temp gauge looked normal.
in the upper radiator hose - using an adapter
a search with "koso gauge" should turn up pics
ChaseTruck
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I've thought about this, but have some concerns in moving forward. After 12 years, the temp gauge mod looks faded, no longer shiny.
Not sure this would pass the exacting QC standards this board expects from 3rd party products. More materials research will be needed.
Hi, I recently got my LX450 and as noted my temp gauge is always in what seems the exact same middle position no matter what. I have noticed that frequently - after I get to my destination - the radiator area will be making a loud boiling sound and a lot of fluid will "boil over" to the side reservoir. Is this normal ?- it happens quite frequently. Could it be due to a faulty thermostat?
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The first thing to check, replace is the cap. If it is leaking, can pull air into the system causing the gurgling.
The cap was leaking when I first got the truck - so had it replaced several months ago. I see no evidence of fluid leaking from the system - just pretty significant volume of fluid going to the overflow tank and then getting sucked back in later on.
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Coolant should circulate in and out of the tank with each heat/cool cycle, that is how it works. The system should expel any air in the first few cycles after being open, then be coolant only. Bubbles in the system are indicative of a leak. When the system cools it sucks coolant from the overflow, it's much easier to suck air, so if there is any leak, it will suck air. The most common spot is the outer seal of the cap, any debris in that area can cause a leak, but it could be anywhere in the cooling system.
Sorry to revive an old post.
I have a 94 so OBD1 but run a Kosi gauge tapped into the upper rad hose on the drivers side and also run the Toyobd dongle which reports to the OE ECT sensor. I see up to 203 on the OE ECT sensor freeway up decent grades (sitting around 70mph) the curious thing is I have a delta of roughly 12 degrees between the OE sensor and the Kosi with the Kosi reading lower (never see above 195 degrees on the Kosi gauge)
Rig has 227k and given the poor maintenance of the PO I highly doubt the OE rad has ever been replaced, I had to fix 3-4 coolant leaks the day I brought the rig as it wouldn't hold 5psi when I tested it. The OE rad takes forever to heat up on one side and on the lower hose.
I have a 94 so OBD1 but run a Kosi gauge tapped into the upper rad hose on the drivers side and also run the Toyobd dongle which reports to the OE ECT sensor. I see up to 203 on the OE ECT sensor freeway up decent grades (sitting around 70mph) the curious thing is I have a delta of roughly 12 degrees between the OE sensor and the Kosi with the Kosi reading lower (never see above 195 degrees on the Kosi gauge)
Rig has 227k and given the poor maintenance of the PO I highly doubt the OE rad has ever been replaced, I had to fix 3-4 coolant leaks the day I brought the rig as it wouldn't hold 5psi when I tested it. The OE rad takes forever to heat up on one side and on the lower hose.
It sounds like you should replace your radiator. I replaced mine as PM about a year ago. In my opinion, it's just not worth the risk to drive a 25 year old truck around with the original radiator (yours was likely built in 1993). Changing it in your driveway is a two banana job (IMO) and while you're there you should (just my opinion) change the two main hoses, clamps, thermostat and radiator cap. Also, check out how your fan clutch, fan and fan shroud look. There are a lot of threads on the importance of maintaining your cooling system in these trucks. You really don't want to blow your rad and overheat your engine. That's a bad path.
The Koyo radiator on Amazon was under $150, do a good distilled water flush on your coolant a couple times (make sure to remove the block plug on the DS of the engine, down low), put in 50/50 Prestone (again, my opinion) and distilled water, and see how that goes. All told you'll be around $250 into it, and if you can afford that it's money well spent.
On the other hand, if you're going to roll the truck soon because you wheel the heck out of it, or you plan to sell it within 6 months, just run it.
YMMV.
The Koyo radiator on Amazon was under $150, do a good distilled water flush on your coolant a couple times (make sure to remove the block plug on the DS of the engine, down low), put in 50/50 Prestone (again, my opinion) and distilled water, and see how that goes. All told you'll be around $250 into it, and if you can afford that it's money well spent.
On the other hand, if you're going to roll the truck soon because you wheel the heck out of it, or you plan to sell it within 6 months, just run it.
YMMV.
The sensor on the upper rad hose just after the thermostat should be an ideal reading as the coolant exiting the block and into the radiator. You can also tell the fan clutch is doing its job as the water temp drops shortly after the the high rpm and the cooler water enters the block and circulates back out from the upper hose to give you the lower read. I had just recently replaced my CSF all metal radiator with an all alum. unit and have seen immediate results in lowered engine temp. With the CSF prior, it would get close to 215F or so on long hilll climbs and i had to pull over and turn off AC and let the engine cool off. With the new alum, unit, same grade, same highway climb and with AC fully blasting with 3 passenger and fully loaded, i now barely see my temp get over 200F amd I have to run the rig hard above 4k rpm to do so.
Is this the Rad folks are using?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PW2QJS...94-76-1017-------------0&sr=2#customerReviews
I have no issue with swapping out the rad it was on my list to do anyway
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PW2QJS...94-76-1017-------------0&sr=2#customerReviews
I have no issue with swapping out the rad it was on my list to do anyway
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That one works, but the TYC 1918 performs better.
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The thermostat is in the lower water neck.
The sensor in the upper hose works OK, kinda. It has a very different profile than the head sensor that most 1FZ owners use. As long as you understand that difference, it's certainly better than nothing.
sorry i was previously referring to my 3-Fe engine
Thanks
