What do i gain with 35" over 33" tires? (1 Viewer)

[rc51kid]

Beside the obvious of looking cooler, what is the advantage off road of a larger diameter tire. Lets just assume the 33 and the 35 are true to size. With a 2 inch diameter increase there would be 1" additional clearance under the axle and the body. This is the obvious advantage.

But what about the angle in which they role over a object? If you say have a 12"rock and run up to it in a 24 inch tire you will be hitting it right at the vertical part of the tire. If you hit the same 12" rock with a 48" you will hit it with a angle of the wheel which roles up and over it much better.

This is a extreme example but does it come into play with changes as small as 33"-35" in the real world? I guess i am asking does a slightly larger wheel, 33-35, change more than just the extra 1" clearance? Is there a real world improvement of how it roles over obstacles or is it minimal in real world?

 

[ALX4X4]

Bigger footprint - longer contact patch on the ground

 

[Tapage]

it didn't seems to be that much, an extra inch, but it makes difference and every inch counts ..

 

[93yotasr5]

it didn't seems to be that much, an extra inch, but it makes difference and every inch counts ..

damned right!!!

 

[Dragos80]

If you air down (as you should), the ground clearance effect will be mostly gone. However, your footprint will be larger.

You will also gain some more MPH at the same RPM, a greater speedometer discrepancy and unwanted (going downhill for example) higher speed when in Lo.

 

[baldilocks]

It seems difficult to believe until you have experienced just one more inch of tire under the axle. I went from 35 to 37 on my last trail rig a few years ago and was pleasantly surprised at how much smoother the vehicle seemed to roll down the trail and how much less my axles got caught on rocks. The sad truth is: Size does matter.

 

[mazder]

it didn't seems to be that much, an extra inch, but it makes difference and every inch counts ..

That's what she said! Hahaha

 

[Qball]

If at same tire stiffness and air pressure 35 will have about 14 percent more contact area plus one more inch in axle heigh compared to 33s.

In really soft stuff bigger contact patch the better you can float instead of dig in and sink, sand in particular needs as much contact area as possible. But you get more rolling resistance with more contact area.

One more inch under the axle also makes a big difference when clearing rocks and obsticals.


Yes, when playing rough and dirty every inch counts!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

You gain the cool factor going with 35's
33's arent big enough to satisfy
37's are just compensators

 

[neatus]

35s are just way better! The pros are
-worse mpg
-tougher to hold high speeds
-longer stopping distance
-when changing a tire they are way heavier
-cost more
-bonus, if you get M/T's then they are loud AF!
Like I said, 35's are better and I'm never going back to 33's.

 

[Tex68w]

If going bigger from 33's I'd skip 35's and go straight to 37's.

 

[SmokingRocks]

1" of lift....

But seriously though, if you wheel tougher trails it is a night and day difference between 33's and 35's. I imagine the step from 35's to 37's is equally as exciting. I didn't go to 37's from 33's, honestly I didn't even entertain the idea. As a result I've really enjoyed experiencing the gradual increase in capabilities of my rig. I don't think I would've enjoy it as much if I skipped to the top level right out of the gate.

Also I see so many jeep drivers who dropped tens of thousands on their brand new JK's run coilovers and 37's or 40's and they are idiots on the trails. Maybe not idiots, but their rig's capabilities far exceeds their own abilities as a driver. When you add those two things together you end up with irresponsible driving, body damage, broken parts and in some unfortunate cases injuries and deaths.

It's my opinion that people ought to modify their rig slowly this allows them to really enjoy (and see the value of) each mod. An additional benefit is they are increasing their driving skill set through experience at the same time. This is no different than the advice many competition crawlers will give to a beginner which is to start with a rig that doesn't have lockers for a while before stepping up. By doing so you learn to drive the right lines and apply the right amount of throttle. Once the magic buttons are installed and turned on pretty much anyone can get over anything, they lower the skill required bar (on mild trails).

Going to 35's was amazing for me, now after a year and a half of running them I am starting to get the same feeling I had with my 33's.. I'm starting to itch for 37's so I can experience that amazement again. Now will that amazement fade after a couple years on 37's? I imagine it would.

 

[greentruck]

Mostly it's about obsession with being just a little bigger than the next guy. In practical terms, exactly how much is gained is that magical 1". Marked up against the cost -- the tires, the lift (assuming you want to avoid rubbing), the MPG, etc, etc -- you NEED there to be something substantial you gain. But I see little of practical use myself. Why?

I've owned a succession of 4x4s since stepping up from Volkswagens, which were a surprisingly capable vehicle in Bug form. I tend to consider the equipment adequate when it gets me down all the trails I have an interest in running. In order: 1976 Subaru 4x4 wagon (too puny to remember anything except it went on a 13" wheel); 1976 FJ55 (OEM 28", 31" on when I sold it); 1984 Isuzu Trooper II (28"); and 1993 Isuzu Rodeo (31"). I mostly rate against the many trails in Colorado I've been to repeatedly over the years. The only trail I've ever had to turn back on is Holy Cross City, which has gotten churned up considerably since I was able to get the 55 up to the stream crossing on the stock tires, but which turned back the Rodeo sooner than that even with the Rodeo's bigger tires two decades later.

As far as I can tell, the arms race in tires simply churns up the trail.

Does this bother me? Nope, ain't driving a buggy. And nothing much up there to see other than a meadow. The dozens of other trails, while at times challenging due to the changing conditions you encounter, have all succumbed to my half-way skillful (I make no claims to superior skills, just picking a good line) driving. Sure, I could jack things up and let the equipment take responsibility for getting me through, but what's the fun in that?

The 80 came with the stocker Michelins, quickly traded out for 33" KM2s. I haven't had a chance to return to Colorado (due to grad school, but that's done in mid-May), but I have no doubt I can go anyplace I'm inclined to -- except Holy Cross City, which I know would require something more to avoid a lot of lower body part crunching. But I can't say that it bothers me.

I'm not dissing on those who need bigger tires for what they do. Playing aggressively in the rocks is certainly a reason to invest in the necessary equipment, including tires. But that's not what I do. And if it's not what you do, then you should consider whether that money would be better spent elsewhere on the rig where it has more practical effect. For me, after 4 decades of 'wheeling Colorado, I've seen very little need for anything bigger than 31" so I fully expect that running 33s will be a lot like shooting fish in a barrel. Another 1" of clearance? The cost/effectiveness ratio just doesn't compute, as I have no practical need for t.

 

[greentruck]

1" of lift....
SNIP
Also I see so many jeep drivers who dropped tens of thousands on their brand new JK's run coilovers and 37's or 40's and they are idiots on the trails. Maybe not idiots, but their rig's capabilities far exceeds their own abilities as a driver. When you add those two things together you end up with irresponsible driving, body damage, broken parts and in some unfortunate cases injuries and deaths.

It's my opinion that people ought to modify their rig slowly this allows them to really enjoy (and see the value of) each mod. An additional benefit is they are increasing their driving skill set through experience at the same time. This is no different than the advice many competition crawlers will give to a beginner which is to start with a rig that doesn't have lockers for a while before stepping up. By doing so you learn to drive the right lines and apply the right amount of throttle. Once the magic buttons are installed and turned on pretty much anyone can get over anything, they lower the skill required bar (on mild trails).

SNIP

It's not only Jeep drivers. It's a problem with any driver who relies more on equipment than skill to get through. Which is not to say that improved and capable equipment is bad for you, just that it can create a false sense of security. There are things you can do that will get you promptly killed at altitude - no matter what your tires are.

Speaking of lockers, I never have missed them. Other than open diffs at both ends, only my Rodeo had a LSD in the rear. Like bigger tires, open diffs never stopped me -- although they can cause you to carefully evaluate your lines. That has the side benefit of making you a better driver, just like having something less than OMG size tires does.

 

[Dave 2000]

Hmmm brakes? Brakes will not be so efficient for the same applied pressure.

regards

Dave

 

[SmokingRocks]

I tend to consider the equipment adequate when it gets me down all the trails I have an interest in running.

This is exactly what it comes down to. You went from stock to 33" and are satisfied with the capabilities. Others here ran 33"s and yearned for more, so in came the 35"s and I can say with certainty that there is a huge improvement. It's not all about 'being bigger than the other guy', if I wanted that I'd have JK with matching powder coated coilovers, powder coated pumpkin covers and powder coated door handles running on 40"s (I have seen this in real life).

An 33's are adequate for maybe 3/4 of colorado's trails. If you ever get the itch to see what the harder trails are like (some are downright awesome in terms of naturing) you will unquestionably want bigger tires.

Now, everyone has a level which they are happy with and usually stick around. For some its 33"s others 35"s and some haven't found that level yet. I like my 35"s would probably like 37"s but I'm satisfied with what I can do now, my desire to go bigger and crazier isn't really there. I just want to perfect where I'm at now.

Lockers also allow the user to ease over obstacles rather than hitting them with momentum which is a sure fire way to break some things.

 

[Qball]

-worse mpg - that depends, I get better mpg at highway speed due to rubber over drive

-tougher to hold high speeds - what do you mean high speed? I have no issue holding up to 80mph, I don't go faster than that but could.

-longer stopping distance - that is true although not by a huge amount

-when changing a tire they are way heavier - very very true. And in most cases people buy a rear bumper with swing out for it......or the other way around for some. Want vs need again I guess.

-cost more - not much or not anymore, 35s are so popular they don't really cost much more anymore.

-bonus, if you get M/T's then they are loud AF! - that's easy, don't get MT. Just about any good AT come in 35s now and days.


This has been argued over on mud for how many years now? Seriously, I've seen pure stocker wheel with stock michellins, it's crazy impressive. you don't need anything but stock tires for most of stuff we do, not even 33s.

 

[greentruck]

Maybe it's the OP's original proposition that I'm getting hung up on? For trails that require an oversize tire, I'd be much more comfortable with something bigger than a 35. I just don't see enough of a gain over 33s if they're not adequate to make that small improvement worthwhile. Then you're talking big $$ to do it right and you end up with a decidedly different truck in terms of its overall manners and specialized nature.

You may be right, I'm missing out on 25% of the trails I'd find interesting. On the other hand, from what I've seen, that 25% of trails tend to be one-way in-and-out. That's how most of the tougher trails I've been on are. The ones that get me into the next drainage and down the road to the next spot I want to camp? Piece of cake on 33s, with some excitement for frosting around the edges.

Then there's the fact that I have to drive 1,000 miles to get to any of this. Makes it hard to justify in terms of road manners, MPG, crosswinds, etc. The truck has to be both a DD (or every 2 or 3 day driver in my case). I like how it works on 33s. Going to 35s starts to compromise everything else in favor of ultimate trailworthiness.

Which is not to say that equation doesn't work out differently for others. But the 80 is such a supremely capable rig in stock form that bigger wouldn't be better...it's would start leaving behind some of the things I value, like parking inside my garage...even before I get out of my driveway

I'll add that even if you're close to the trail, this seems to be what many conclude. I've noticed that rigs with CO plates I see on the trail tend to be less built than visitors I encounter are. I'm sure there are many reasons for this. And there are more CO rigs that are built than in the past. But it reinforces that many of those most likely to have lots of back country experience see little need to go big simply to get where they need to go. I suspect that a lot of this has to do with gearing, which is never cheap. Once you've lived mile-high, you know what a power-suck altitude is. Add in bigger tires and you're really killing those horses under the hood when you head uphill from there. That's where staying on 33s really shines by keeping the cashflow under control.

 

[SmokingRocks]

Yea I-70 to Moab is going to be fun. Next week there will be a group of us in 80's cresting Vail Pass at about 40mph, the 60's will be right behind us at about 35mph.

 

[n00g7]

35's aren't appreciably more expensive, no reason not to get them IMO. I'd say a must would be making sure your brakes are up to date. Regearing down the road is also helpful. I'd have 37's or larger but the cost to get there in tires alone takes time.