What Did You Do with Your 80 This Weekend? (62 Viewers)

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LS1FJ40 said:
I'm not concerned about draining both batteries. The marine battery will last a long time with only the fridge drawing off of it. And I have solar that I just need to mount my roof rack and will have that added bonus. I suppose I could add an isolator for added insurance...

Where did you run your 2ga wires? I was thinking of running them along the radiator (in front of them) but that seems to be pretty hot. But I guess it's only about 180-190 degrees so should be fine.
Click to expand...

I didn't realize you had a marine and a traditional.. I'd definitely run an isolator. Also in that case I don't know that 2GA is necessary.. I think most isolators allow you to do your starting off the regular battery only. In that case the bulk of what would be getting used from the marine (house) battery is your accessories and they don't need nearly as big of a wire gauge.

My wires are run in front of the radiator. I grabbed some spare corrugated plastic conduit from one of the spare floor harnesses I have lying around (original non-locked 94, locked 97 I got with the axles, non-locked 97 I got with the body shell). Removed the short core-support section that unbolts with 12mm heads (plus hood latch, horn, a/c condensor bracket bolts, upper inner headlight bolts, etc).. and wrapped/attached the 2awg to the bottom of the front clip harness where it goes across. There are three clips there already holding said core-support harness up to the sheet metal.. I just used fabric harness tape and zip ties to attach. Also put a bit of extra fabric tape on the 2awg stuff where it dropped into the triangle between the outer core support and the radiator brackets.. in case of chafing.

Will try to get a pic tomorrow.. but my memory sucks.
 
Welded, ground, sanded, ready for paint.
tmp_5077-20160528_192852-1361476306.jpg
 
bloc said:
I didn't realize you had a marine and a traditional.. I'd definitely run an isolator. Also in that case I don't know that 2GA is necessary.. I think most isolators allow you to do your starting off the regular battery only. In that case the bulk of what would be getting used from the marine (house) battery is your accessories and they don't need nearly as big of a wire gauge.

My wires are run in front of the radiator. I grabbed some spare corrugated plastic conduit from one of the spare floor harnesses I have lying around (original non-locked 94, locked 97 I got with the axles, non-locked 97 I got with the body shell). Removed the short core-support section that unbolts with 12mm heads (plus hood latch, horn, a/c condensor bracket bolts, upper inner headlight bolts, etc).. and wrapped/attached the 2awg to the bottom of the front clip harness where it goes across. There are three clips there already holding said core-support harness up to the sheet metal.. I just used fabric harness tape and zip ties to attach. Also put a bit of extra fabric tape on the 2awg stuff where it dropped into the triangle between the outer core support and the radiator brackets.. in case of chafing.

Will try to get a pic tomorrow.. but my memory sucks.
Click to expand...

Ok. Cool. I went ahead and ordered a Blue Sea isolator last night from Amazon. I also ordered new battery terminals for my starting battery. Just charged the marine battery with the battery charger last night so it would be good to go again today. Isolator will show up tomorrow and I can finish the setup. Thanks for your help.
 
Dragos80 said:
WTF?????????????

do you really think we're all dumb here?

"cut down the from bumper" and all I see is a hammer!
Click to expand...

That's how we do it in Iowa! I cut that with a SFH! I got skillz!
 
LS1FJ40 said:
Ok. Cool. I went ahead and ordered a Blue Sea isolator last night from Amazon. I also ordered new battery terminals for my starting battery. Just charged the marine battery with the battery charger last night so it would be good to go again today. Isolator will show up tomorrow and I can finish the setup. Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...

Probably best that you did. I didn't put enough emphasis on something.. with a starting and marine battery in parallel, there is no guarantee that your accessories will run off the marine battery alone. It'll discharge the starting battery too, only half as quickly (as without the marine) since the marine is doing half the work. The problem is that a given amount of amp/hr out of the starting battery disproportionately effects it's overall life span and in the short term, starting ability.

So without an isolator your current system is better than JUST the starting battery, but an isolator is necessary to really take advantage of that marine battery installed as a second.

My system is different.. with ample (get it?!) juice available for a hard winch pull being my main focus.
 
Sailing4x4 said:
The first of many diff oil changes. I wasn't able to find SAE 90, so based off of what I read I used SAE 80W-90. Pumping it in was a little bit of a workout.
Click to expand...


A trick not to pump. Local auto shops only have one quart bottles with funnel like cap. Hang the bottle from the hood upside down, cut a slit in the bottom to let air in and run flexible clear hose down to the diff. Replace bottle when empty.

For the rear do the same. Drop spare tire, hang bottle from upper tailgate and run hose through hole in bumper.

For last bottle cut the top off previous bottle and top up.
 
Installed the upgraded battery cables and man are they beefy. Have noticed the scanguage is showing higher volts after install.
Also installed HIR bulbs
 
Drove to Crested Butte for a wedding.

Took the circuitous route to Marble for BBQ at Slow Groovin and to meet up with some friends at their cabin.

Kebler pass was closed (doh!)so it went from just over an hour drive to a 2.5 hour drive from Marble to CB.

image.jpeg



Not sure which one of you fools this is, but nice rig.

image.jpeg
 
Ignored it, because I'm not doing crap to it till the next oil change, tire rotation and changing the front brake pads every 15K. :)
 
TDavidson said:
A trick not to pump. Local auto shops only have one quart bottles with funnel like cap. Hang the bottle from the hood upside down, cut a slit in the bottom to let air in and run flexible clear hose down to the diff. Replace bottle when empty.

For the rear do the same. Drop spare tire, hang bottle from upper tailgate and run hose through hole in bumper.

For last bottle cut the top off previous bottle and top up.
Click to expand...

I'll have to remember that next time, tanks for the tip! The large jigs were just a little cheaper, but I think I'd gladly pay a little more to save my arm
 
Wasted money NL, she's still hanging out around the 80!:cheers:
 
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