In the Central American market, full floaters were either not available or offered as an option. I have seen a LOT of Cruisers in Central America and I don't recall ever seeing a 45 that had a full floater.
What did I get myself into? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DanS HJ-45
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DanS HJ-45
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So I'm doing some more thinking...
The mini truck brake booster bolted right into the FJ-40 right? So it would probably bolt right in to my HJ-45, yes? I've got a booster and MC from a Surf (diesel 4-runner) that sure looked like it would fit. I'll have to remove the aftermarket (?) booster that's on there now to see if they hacked in some holes or not, but, just something for me to ponder. The booster and MC I have look just about new from the Surf, and otherwise they'd probably end up going to the junkyard or something anyway.
Also, the wiring harness is uber-hacked on mine. So I could re-wire it from scratch (which I'm perfectly comfortable doing, but I'd have to source the connectors if I wanted to be able to plug it in like OEM). Or I could buy a painless harness (do they include the correct connectors for all the stuff that needs to be plugged in?). Or I could probably come up with a north american gas harness and modify it to work with the diesel engine. Anyone ever compared the gas harnesses to the diesels? It's just so hard to get as good of quality components as Toyota used that I'd love to keep it as close to OEM as possible.
Dan
The mini truck brake booster bolted right into the FJ-40 right? So it would probably bolt right in to my HJ-45, yes? I've got a booster and MC from a Surf (diesel 4-runner) that sure looked like it would fit. I'll have to remove the aftermarket (?) booster that's on there now to see if they hacked in some holes or not, but, just something for me to ponder. The booster and MC I have look just about new from the Surf, and otherwise they'd probably end up going to the junkyard or something anyway.
Also, the wiring harness is uber-hacked on mine. So I could re-wire it from scratch (which I'm perfectly comfortable doing, but I'd have to source the connectors if I wanted to be able to plug it in like OEM). Or I could buy a painless harness (do they include the correct connectors for all the stuff that needs to be plugged in?). Or I could probably come up with a north american gas harness and modify it to work with the diesel engine. Anyone ever compared the gas harnesses to the diesels? It's just so hard to get as good of quality components as Toyota used that I'd love to keep it as close to OEM as possible.
Dan
mr pierre
I hope that someone will be able to help me .I have a bunch of guys looking for a 1982 gmc truck part for 3 weeks now and no one can find the name of the part one automotive store ordered 3 things that are the rong one and they cant find the name either.
The part I need is bolted to the firewall and has 2 bolts one small one and one 1/4 inche its a plastic part that has 3 wires connected to it .One big wire comming from the ignition switch goes to that part???? then goes to the alteurnator and has 2 small wires connected o the little bolt on that part that I need.
A few names we where given.
Resistor
capasitor
ballast resistor.They are all rong if anyone can help it would be very appreciated . Thankyou
I hope that someone will be able to help me .I have a bunch of guys looking for a 1982 gmc truck part for 3 weeks now and no one can find the name of the part one automotive store ordered 3 things that are the rong one and they cant find the name either.
The part I need is bolted to the firewall and has 2 bolts one small one and one 1/4 inche its a plastic part that has 3 wires connected to it .One big wire comming from the ignition switch goes to that part???? then goes to the alteurnator and has 2 small wires connected o the little bolt on that part that I need.
A few names we where given.
Resistor
capasitor
ballast resistor.They are all rong if anyone can help it would be very appreciated . Thankyou
DanS HJ-45
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- #45
Seriously, why can't I find my camera?
Not that I've started with the HJ (pacing myself, another couple months before I should allow myself to start disassembling anything), but....
In the back of my faux-Hilux is a PTO winch! I'm so pumped that I'll probably have to set the winch on my HJ just to see it, and then pretend to make "winch noises" for a while.
Thanks Jeff! I am more and more amazed with how clean and straight this winch is.
Pictures to follow later today...
Dan
Not that I've started with the HJ (pacing myself, another couple months before I should allow myself to start disassembling anything), but....
In the back of my faux-Hilux is a PTO winch! I'm so pumped that I'll probably have to set the winch on my HJ just to see it, and then pretend to make "winch noises" for a while.
Thanks Jeff! I am more and more amazed with how clean and straight this winch is.
Pictures to follow later today...
Dan
DanS HJ-45
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Well, I lied. Pictures didn't come anywhere close to "today."
But I actually did something on my HJ today. No, I'm not really ready to rip into it yet (well, my hands say "yes," but my wallet says "no"), but....
So I bought a PTO winch a while back (thanks Jeff!). Today i got motivated enough to at least make sure it would mount correctly. There was a bracket that had been welded onto the bumper which got in the way, so today I decided I just *had* to cut that bracket off. To do that, I needed the plasma cutter. To get the plasma cutter to the truck, I needed the truck in the shop.
To get the truck in the shop, I needed the Power Wagon. Now, the HJ doesn't exactly roll too well, so the small incline that is in front of the shop wasn't even enough to get it rolling inside. So, since we had intended to get the plow on today, we just used the plow on the Dodge to give the HJ a nudge into the shop. So easy!
Then I had to cut the bracket off. Don't get excited, it was like 6 inches long and I had to cut all of 6 welds. It wasn't even worthy of a picture, that's how lame it was.
But once it was off, I laid the winch in there. Fairly good, but I think *something* is tweaked in there. All 4 bolt holes for the winch brackets don't quite line up, so I need to figure out what is bent if I care that much. Or I could just bolt the front down and enlarge the holes in the back (they'll be under pillow blocks anyway, so nobody will see them). Either way, I'm happy to see the winch on there. It looks good. I can't wait to mount it up for real.
But I actually did something on my HJ today. No, I'm not really ready to rip into it yet (well, my hands say "yes," but my wallet says "no"), but....
So I bought a PTO winch a while back (thanks Jeff!). Today i got motivated enough to at least make sure it would mount correctly. There was a bracket that had been welded onto the bumper which got in the way, so today I decided I just *had* to cut that bracket off. To do that, I needed the plasma cutter. To get the plasma cutter to the truck, I needed the truck in the shop.
To get the truck in the shop, I needed the Power Wagon. Now, the HJ doesn't exactly roll too well, so the small incline that is in front of the shop wasn't even enough to get it rolling inside. So, since we had intended to get the plow on today, we just used the plow on the Dodge to give the HJ a nudge into the shop. So easy!
Then I had to cut the bracket off. Don't get excited, it was like 6 inches long and I had to cut all of 6 welds. It wasn't even worthy of a picture, that's how lame it was.
But once it was off, I laid the winch in there. Fairly good, but I think *something* is tweaked in there. All 4 bolt holes for the winch brackets don't quite line up, so I need to figure out what is bent if I care that much. Or I could just bolt the front down and enlarge the holes in the back (they'll be under pillow blocks anyway, so nobody will see them). Either way, I'm happy to see the winch on there. It looks good. I can't wait to mount it up for real.
DanS HJ-45
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- #47
I said it didn't roll too well....
Which doesn't worry me because I picked up a set of axles for it. A full floater rear (thanks Steve, and Jim for the tip!), and a spare front axle. The front has got drum brakes, but it's nice to have sitting around.
Here's the rear (well, the parts of it )
Which doesn't worry me because I picked up a set of axles for it. A full floater rear (thanks Steve, and Jim for the tip!), and a spare front axle. The front has got drum brakes, but it's nice to have sitting around.
Here's the rear (well, the parts of it
)
DanS HJ-45
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- #48
As to the front....
I want to keep the disc front end under there. But I also want to rebuilt it (obviously). So I think my plan at the moment will be to swap the drum front under the truck, so that I can remove the disc front axle and rebuild it sooner rather than later.
A couple of questions though....
1)The right side has an air scoop, while the left doesn't. Is this normal, or were parts only replaced on one side at some point?
2)The U bolts go around a small bracket on the disc axle, the drum axle has substantially larger brackets on the top of the axle, does this matter, or is it just a minor change?
3)The housings between the drum and disc axles are interchangeable, correct? The only *real* difference is the knuckle, right?
4)The seals in the Marlin kit are generally considered to be the best option here, yes?
5)Eventually I'll buy an OME kit for the whole suspension, but in the meantime I just want U-bolts for the front... Are these available on the cheap by themselves until I go for the whole OME setup?
Anything I'm missing? The pictures of the disc front axle might tip someone more knowledgeable than I onto something stupid I'm about to do...
Dan
I want to keep the disc front end under there. But I also want to rebuilt it (obviously). So I think my plan at the moment will be to swap the drum front under the truck, so that I can remove the disc front axle and rebuild it sooner rather than later.
A couple of questions though....
1)The right side has an air scoop, while the left doesn't. Is this normal, or were parts only replaced on one side at some point?
2)The U bolts go around a small bracket on the disc axle, the drum axle has substantially larger brackets on the top of the axle, does this matter, or is it just a minor change?
3)The housings between the drum and disc axles are interchangeable, correct? The only *real* difference is the knuckle, right?
4)The seals in the Marlin kit are generally considered to be the best option here, yes?
5)Eventually I'll buy an OME kit for the whole suspension, but in the meantime I just want U-bolts for the front... Are these available on the cheap by themselves until I go for the whole OME setup?
Anything I'm missing? The pictures of the disc front axle might tip someone more knowledgeable than I onto something stupid I'm about to do...
Dan
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1)The right side has an air scoop, while the left doesn't. Is this normal, or were parts only replaced on one side at some point?
As far as I know, the dust shield with the air scoop is a 61 series (and later) part - I've never seen these as a stock 40 part. If you look back a few pages on my build thread, you can find the part number for the later style dust shield
2)The U bolts go around a small bracket on the disc axle, the drum axle has substantially larger brackets on the top of the axle, does this matter, or is it just a minor change?
I think that's a relatively minor change, though I would imagine the beefier, the better (which would argue for using the drum axle as a core and rebuild it with the disc knuckles)
3)The housings between the drum and disc axles are interchangeable, correct? The only *real* difference is the knuckle, right?
Yes, in terms of the mounting pattern at the hub flange, so long as you have the 8-bolt pattern on your full floater, which you do. I don't believe the axles are 'interchangeable' however -that would mean a fair bit of welding action :^)
4)The seals in the Marlin kit are generally considered to be the best option here, yes?
I'd agree with that, though if you have the centering tool, you will be fine with stock seals too. The Marlin shields are a better and heavier-duty design though, and they're not expensive, so why not? The only negative would be their relative newness on the market.
5)Eventually I'll buy an OME kit for the whole suspension, but in the meantime I just want U-bolts for the front... Are these available on the cheap by themselves until I go for the whole OME setup?
Sure, you can find them at a 4x4 supply for $8~11/piece. Since it's temporary, it wouldn't really matter if you used imperial u-bolts instead of metric (harder to find at the local shops, IME). The OME u-bolts will be metric.
Looking good Dan - have at it!
As far as I know, the dust shield with the air scoop is a 61 series (and later) part - I've never seen these as a stock 40 part. If you look back a few pages on my build thread, you can find the part number for the later style dust shield
2)The U bolts go around a small bracket on the disc axle, the drum axle has substantially larger brackets on the top of the axle, does this matter, or is it just a minor change?
I think that's a relatively minor change, though I would imagine the beefier, the better (which would argue for using the drum axle as a core and rebuild it with the disc knuckles)
3)The housings between the drum and disc axles are interchangeable, correct? The only *real* difference is the knuckle, right?
Yes, in terms of the mounting pattern at the hub flange, so long as you have the 8-bolt pattern on your full floater, which you do. I don't believe the axles are 'interchangeable' however -that would mean a fair bit of welding action :^)
4)The seals in the Marlin kit are generally considered to be the best option here, yes?
I'd agree with that, though if you have the centering tool, you will be fine with stock seals too. The Marlin shields are a better and heavier-duty design though, and they're not expensive, so why not? The only negative would be their relative newness on the market.
5)Eventually I'll buy an OME kit for the whole suspension, but in the meantime I just want U-bolts for the front... Are these available on the cheap by themselves until I go for the whole OME setup?
Sure, you can find them at a 4x4 supply for $8~11/piece. Since it's temporary, it wouldn't really matter if you used imperial u-bolts instead of metric (harder to find at the local shops, IME). The OME u-bolts will be metric.
Looking good Dan - have at it!
Dan-
I'm glad your diving into the 45!!! I hope the PTO is going to work well for you. Last weekend while clearing out the garage, I came across 2- "pillow" spacers that go under the rear mounts of the winch(near the bib).
PM me your address, and I'll send 'em down to you.
Did you pickup the FF axles up here in Castle Rock? I know the guys at Solid Rock were talking about them.
Hope you're doing well.
How's the flyin going?
I'm glad your diving into the 45!!! I hope the PTO is going to work well for you. Last weekend while clearing out the garage, I came across 2- "pillow" spacers that go under the rear mounts of the winch(near the bib).
PM me your address, and I'll send 'em down to you.
Did you pickup the FF axles up here in Castle Rock? I know the guys at Solid Rock were talking about them.
Hope you're doing well.
How's the flyin going?
DanS HJ-45
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I sure did pick up the axles in Castle Rock. Glad to find them within my normal driving grounds. I don't have any idea how expensive shipping on an axle or two would be, but it's a lot more than the extra fuel that my pickup used to cart them back to NM. Also, they gave me great traction on the ice.
PM sent Jeff.
I'm excited to start tinkering with it. The nice thing about the flying is that I have a good deal of time to order parts, so if I can order up some seals tomorrow perhaps they'll be here by the time I get back (with 3 days off). The bad part about the flying is that I have to spend a lot of time in hotel rooms without access to my cruiser.
Time to get ordering from Marlin then...
Dan
I don't have any idea how expensive shipping on an axle or two would be, but it's a lot more than the extra fuel that my pickup used to cart them back to NM. Also, they gave me great traction on the ice. PM sent Jeff.
I'm excited to start tinkering with it. The nice thing about the flying is that I have a good deal of time to order parts, so if I can order up some seals tomorrow perhaps they'll be here by the time I get back (with 3 days off). The bad part about the flying is that I have to spend a lot of time in hotel rooms without access to my cruiser.
Time to get ordering from Marlin then...
Dan
Extra fuel for your hilux? Are you kidding me? LOL That didn't use up any more dinosaurs than it normally would!
You really impressed the guys from Solid Rock Off Road with your truck. I think he wants to get a front clip and do it too!
Sorry I haven't sent off the pillow cushions....hopefully I'll get them out tomorrow.
Talk to ya soon! Let me know when you're in town again!
You really impressed the guys from Solid Rock Off Road with your truck. I think he wants to get a front clip and do it too!
Sorry I haven't sent off the pillow cushions....hopefully I'll get them out tomorrow.
Talk to ya soon! Let me know when you're in town again!
DanS HJ-45
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Update time!
If you were sharp, you noticed that I was painting some wheels for my Dad's FJ-40 (paint and body section).
But that's not all! Today i actually did something for my HJ!!!
I painted the FF axle housing. The tabs that hold the brake lines on were broken off, so I cut some new ones and welded them on, then I blasted the whole thing real well. At this point, the only imperfections you see are in the metal--from previous abuse or weld spatter from the factory (well, aside from some minor grinding marks from my welding of the tabs).
I just did the FF housing and the axle shafts today, I need to source some parts and stuff before I do the rest of the axle assembly. And I'll probably powder coat most of that stuff.
So I blasted. Then I painted with DP90LF. My local paint jobber thinks that this will be more than strong enough as a coating. I hope so. I'm going to leave it as is and see how it does. It looks pretty close to a chassis black, and it's supposed to be really, really durable.
*sigh* back to work tomorrow, but on the plus side I'll be in the Denver area in a bit more than a week for a couple of days. With the faux-Hilux to boot!
Dan
If you were sharp, you noticed that I was painting some wheels for my Dad's FJ-40 (paint and body section).
But that's not all! Today i actually did something for my HJ!!!
I painted the FF axle housing. The tabs that hold the brake lines on were broken off, so I cut some new ones and welded them on, then I blasted the whole thing real well. At this point, the only imperfections you see are in the metal--from previous abuse or weld spatter from the factory (well, aside from some minor grinding marks from my welding of the tabs).
I just did the FF housing and the axle shafts today, I need to source some parts and stuff before I do the rest of the axle assembly. And I'll probably powder coat most of that stuff.
So I blasted. Then I painted with DP90LF. My local paint jobber thinks that this will be more than strong enough as a coating. I hope so. I'm going to leave it as is and see how it does. It looks pretty close to a chassis black, and it's supposed to be really, really durable.
*sigh* back to work tomorrow, but on the plus side I'll be in the Denver area in a bit more than a week for a couple of days. With the faux-Hilux to boot!
Dan
Dang Dan, you get serious about your painting. I really like the booth setup you built.
Sure beats my method of Krylon in the driveway.
Sure beats my method of Krylon in the driveway.
DanS HJ-45
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I'm seriously considering building a dedicated paint/body booth in the shop now.
The PVC is good for big projects, or a couple of days, but for doing two or three parts at a time--it'd be a big pain. The PVC box was more of a test to see if I can do any of the painting myself. At this point (the axle and the wheels) I'm convinced that I can do a decent job.
This is why my truck projects take so long.... I keep building tools, hoists, buildings, etc... to do the work!
At least on my next trip here I can research and see how expensive and how much work building a paint booth might be.... If I build one--it's going to need to be a storage area on top of it too.
Dan
What is that air filter looking thing in the lower left side of the picture. It looks like it is connected to a 20' long cardboard box going outside. Is that for air ventilation?
Is it pressurizing the paint booth or creating a vaccum?
Is it pressurizing the paint booth or creating a vaccum?
Dan-
Good progress there dude!!
Can you PM me with your address.....I accidently deleted your previous PM.
I still have the pillow-blocks for the PTO on my workbench with your name on them.....ready for shipping.
(sorry bout the major delay)
Talk to you soon!
Jeff
Good progress there dude!!
Can you PM me with your address.....I accidently deleted your previous PM.
I still have the pillow-blocks for the PTO on my workbench with your name on them.....ready for shipping.
(sorry bout the major delay)
Talk to you soon!
Jeff
DanS HJ-45
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Good catch! The box is "slightly" pressurized by a couple of fans, and the heated air within it. The filter and carbdoard tube you see is the exhast side. The idea was to run the exhaust out of the building, with the fans and heat gently pushing the overspray outside. It worked pretty well overall: within the paint box the overspray dropped to the floor and out really nicely. You don't want much airflow, just enough to move some air. The only problem I had with it was that every time a gust of wind hit that side of the building it pushed the air and overspray back towards the box. That's what the exit air filter was for, to keep the overspray from going back into the paint box.
On the other side of the box is and inlet air filter, which was just a filter with a small fan and a space heater with a fan blowing into it. Once the building was somewhat aired out, I would start the big kerosene combustion heater.
My big concern here was both overspray on the other vehicles, and the very dangerous isocyanides in the DP primer and clear I shot. No reason to breathe that junk if you can at all help it.
Like I said: it worked well for what it was, but now I want a better booth, one that won't be so affected by gusts of wind, and will hold it's temperature safely (the overspray is pretty explosive too), while not having to put it up just to paint one or two parts. We'll see what happens with that.
Jeff: pm will be sent in a minute.
Dan
DanS HJ-45
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So I'm busy working on the FF rear.
Got parts coming from CDan and Cruiser Outfitters....
Good parts too! It's really a good thing I ended up taking the set of the rear and front axles from Tinker. One of the drums on the rear had some damage (just to the outside, wouldn't have affected braking--but I still don't like anything broken), and it turned out that the drums from the front were the same. Which is very lucky, because when I brought the brake pads into CDan earlier this week he noted that he'd never seen any so wide.
They're nearly twice as wide as the standard brake shoes for the 40! I *should* even have a good part number for the replacements, we'll see when they get here...
Anyway, should I replace the wheel studs and hub studs while I'm doing all this? I am waiting for it to not be so windy outside (can't set up the PVC booth at the moment--and certainly not just to paint my hubs) so I can paint the hubs, but I'm wondering about the wheel and hub studs. They don't look bad, but for a relative pittance I could replace them with new ones....
Also, the backing plates. I can powder coat them or I can paint them. If I paint them they will match the other stuff, but if I powder coat them then they'll be more chemical resistant (brake fluid). But I could only powder coat them either gloss black, or battleship grey. Anyone think that would look as funny as I am? I'll probably paint them and just focus my energy on not having brake fluid spill on there, but just musing here....
Dan
Got parts coming from CDan and Cruiser Outfitters....
Good parts too! It's really a good thing I ended up taking the set of the rear and front axles from Tinker. One of the drums on the rear had some damage (just to the outside, wouldn't have affected braking--but I still don't like anything broken), and it turned out that the drums from the front were the same. Which is very lucky, because when I brought the brake pads into CDan earlier this week he noted that he'd never seen any so wide.
They're nearly twice as wide as the standard brake shoes for the 40! I *should* even have a good part number for the replacements, we'll see when they get here...
Anyway, should I replace the wheel studs and hub studs while I'm doing all this? I am waiting for it to not be so windy outside (can't set up the PVC booth at the moment--and certainly not just to paint my hubs) so I can paint the hubs, but I'm wondering about the wheel and hub studs. They don't look bad, but for a relative pittance I could replace them with new ones....
Also, the backing plates. I can powder coat them or I can paint them. If I paint them they will match the other stuff, but if I powder coat them then they'll be more chemical resistant (brake fluid). But I could only powder coat them either gloss black, or battleship grey. Anyone think that would look as funny as I am? I'll probably paint them and just focus my energy on not having brake fluid spill on there, but just musing here....
Dan
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I've got the drums and shoes, etc, left over from my truck - for the price of shipping I could send them to you.
I would replace the wheel studs while you're at it and have the hubs off. They are relatively cheap items to buy, and it's just a few minutes work with a press to replace them. It's sure nice to be able to spin the lug nuts on and off effortlessly, after going to the trouble to restore the other brake parts.
Are you planning to replace the brake lines as well?
I would replace the wheel studs while you're at it and have the hubs off. They are relatively cheap items to buy, and it's just a few minutes work with a press to replace them. It's sure nice to be able to spin the lug nuts on and off effortlessly, after going to the trouble to restore the other brake parts.
Are you planning to replace the brake lines as well?
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