What a Broken Heater Hose Tee Looks Like (Help Requested) (1 Viewer)

[LCTom]

I put it off and put it off and put it off and paid the price. At least it didn't happen in Death Valley. The T literally disintegrated on me. I replaced both Tees, but I suspect plastic pieces fell inside engine during the process. I am running HOT, HOT, HOT after changing the tees. Clearly the cooling system is not working as it should. Is there an easy and cheap solution for fishing plastic pieces out of cooling system?

 

[ponytl]

there are few places that the broken T parts could be that would ever be the cause of you running HOT.... More likely you did not get enough coolant back in the system... maybe an air pocket... or you might have a bad radiator hose on the SUCK side that is collapsing and restricting flow... or a bad thermostat ... The failed T might have been the weak link that blew when the engine got hot for a reason you have yet to find... even a bad water pump...

I'd remove the radiator cap (cool engine please) and with engine running I'd watch the flow through the radiator... IF you have flow and good volume... I'd then replace the cap and have someone rev the engine while you watch the hoses to see if one is sucking in... feel the hoses they BOTH should be warm/hot...

I doubt it's parts of the T.... the already weak T just failed being the weak link in a faulty system

 

[PabloCruise]

Is there a bleed valve for bleeding cooling system?

Or elevate the front end and run it w/ cap off?

 

[LCTom]

Thanks for the ideas. I'm pretty sure I filled the system completely with coolant, but I didn't watch for weak hose or air in the system. Thermostat shouldn't be a tough swap if it comes to that. I'll give those a try and let you know how it goes.

 

[yotasavg]

If you didn't watch for air in the system, and didn't do a proper 'burp', I'd fill it back up and start there.

 

[2001LC]

Assuming coolant type, level and all else to spec first.

I'd try back flush system. Treating it as three separate systems ie: radiator, engine block & heater. May as well replacing thermostat while at it, checking to see if it was sticking.

Note: Coolant system is self bleeding. Just Top off radiator first and fill reservoir to cold mark, while cold. If coolant system has been fully drained, I'll usually fill reservoir to hot mark this first time. Then run engine until normal operating temp reached, then let cool down until next morning (~12 hours). Each morning while cold (before starting) check reservoir adding coolant back up to cold level mark if needed. It usually takes two to three cycle until level holds the cold mark. Once this is completed and engine at normal operating temp; cabin heater should blow hot air. Heater will not blow hot if coolant level low or blockage in heater core(s) or lines.

Type of coolant: Toyota Red Premix or 50/50 Toyota Red/demineralized water. FSM recommends flushing 30K miles or 2 years.

 

[wpsfan]

So what's the story on these, they need replaced at regular intervals?

 

[cruiserdan]

I would.

 

[ponytl]

So what's the story on these, they need replaced at regular intervals?

yes they (the oem T's ) tend to turn back to the dust from which they came... once replaced with brass you are good to go

 

[PabloCruise]

yes they (the oem T's ) tend to turn back to the dust from which they came... once replaced with brass you are good to go

Is there a favorite brass replacement product?

 

[SmoothLC]

Look in this thread - toward the latter half IIRC - DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe Ts.

 

[yeti in ga]

damm, I am ordering my today !!

 

[CohibaDream]

Buy a couple gallons of Toyota coolant. Mine did the same as yours, had to replace at my office. It takes a lot more coolant than you'd think. Your radiator and reservoir are probably very low. Refill, drive, then refill, drive, then check, then add more. Then check in a week and top off.

 

[wpsfan]

Ordered T's yesterday, thanks for posting this.

 

[jclarke450]

The T's have to be the most underengineered parts on this LC platform outside of maybe the Steering Rack. Seems so easy to replace and yet so many don't do it.

 

[bctlex]

When I bought my LC about 6 months ago, the T's were seeping coolant. I brought the car home, park it in the garage for a few days before I can get to it. My wife was like why cant we drive the new car - we both were excited to buy this car. I tried to explain to her, but I think she just thinks I am nuts.

Fast forward to now, I showed her the pic from OP above. Told her this is why I did what I did - she said "I dont remember what you did 6 months ago". The things that I do to make sure she would never get stranded anywhere with our kid alone.... Thank you for posting this. It makes me feel better that when I insist on how things are done for our vehicles, I am not just crazy

I hope that there is no permanent damage for the LC above
Chris

 

[PabloCruise]

The T's have to be the most underengineered parts on this LC platform outside of maybe the Steering Rack. Seems so easy to replace and yet so many don't do it.

Steering racks, fuse blocks, coolant Ts - how reliable are the 100s?

 

[jclarke450]

Steering rack is unlikely to ruin a motor. Fuse block can be bypassed. Heater T is a game changer

 

[LCTom]

No harm no foul here. I just needed to run it with cap off for a while and add some more coolant.

I blame myself for this. I had planned on changing tees for a while, but never got around to it. Simple and cheap process to swap these out, no reason not to. Its a good idea to keep a spare. I went OEM on replacement but brass has me curious. Its kind of a silly weak point on what is otherwise solid platform, but i'll take this over the fuel system and other reliability issues on Land Rovers any day.

 

[ponytl]

Is there a favorite brass replacement product?

the brass part i found came from LOWES for the PEX plumbing system... brass barbed T ... think at one time I or someone here under a different thread posted the part and picture