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Water pump

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Lochsa, Sep 4, 2003.

  1. Lochsa

    Lochsa

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    Sorry if this is a dumb question. I am new to the world of the landcruiser and have some concerns about a water pump. Took my girlfriend's 96 FJ80 in for a radiator leak. The guy says that there is probably a leak around the bottom seal of the radiator to the plastic tank on the bottom. Also says there is some indication that the water pump is leaking. My question is, is this normal for 100k? The guy wants to replace the water pump and take out the radiator to have it flushed and cleaned up (previous owner must have dumped in some radiator sealant to cover up the leak for selling). The cruiser keeps a constant temp right where it should be (as far as I can tell). Is it likely that the water pump needs to be replaced as well?

    Here are costs:
    135 for pump plus 100 for labor
    19 for thermostat plus 55 for labor
    95 for cleaning crap out of radiator

    Is this reasonable? Thanks for helping out a person new to Toyotas! I haven't done any repair work to one so I don't know if I'm being taken for a ride or not...
     
  2. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    I do my own work so I cant comment of $$$
    Yes I would replace the water pump and thermostat.
    kurt
     
  3. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    The water pump is about right for retail on an OEM one. The thermostat is a couple bucks high. Leakage on 1FZ water pumps is not very common. If coolant is seeping from the weep hole it should be replaced. The radiators, on the other hand, are an issue on most vehicles with over 100 k on them. The "stop leak" is probably the grey-green sludge stuff that is common but as yet not adequately explained. Do get the radiator cleaned/replaced as required and the thermostat. Ask to see the leak from the pump. If it is really leaking change it as well.


    Cheers, Dan.
     
  4. Lochsa

    Lochsa

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    Thanks for the info. Ever had to replace the pump or thermostat? Are they difficult to get at and replace? I wouldn't mind doing it myself, just have no exp with the toyota...
     
  5. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    The stat is pretty easy, the water pump requires removal of the fan shroud and blade/clutch, which requires removal of the battery and battery tray and the upper radiator hose and upper bypass hose. pulling the radiator would also require the same operations.
     
  6. Lochsa

    Lochsa

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    Thanks a lot for the great advice! I really appreciate it. I will think about doing the work myself... Need to have a look around and decide if I want to take the time on a vehicle that isn't mine...

    Anyways, thanks again!
     
  7. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    [quote author=Lochsa link=board=2;threadid=4956;start=msg37939#msg37939 date=1062706178] Need to have a look around and decide if I want to take the time on a vehicle that isn't mine...


    [/quote]

    Hmmmmm, a gal that comes with her own 80.......... ::)

    I dunno fellas, I don't think he should let that one get away ::)
     
  8. Lochsa

    Lochsa

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    maybe i can get her to take my bronco II... Sounds like these are more fun. How can I find out if it has the optional lockers?
     
  9. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    To the left of the steering wheel you will see a square opening in the dash. If the vehicle has diff locks there will be a rotary switch that says "diff lock" on it and has 3 positions. Off, rear and front/rear. If there is a square black cover...... :'(
     
  10. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    IMO the t-stat labor price is high, since it takes about 10 minutes to replace. The other labor costs seem quite reasonable to me. The t-stat and water pump prices are dealer plus. Your average rad shop won't touch a plastic tanked rad, since they have to bend all those tabs up and down. More than likely the rad will keep on leaking.

    I would put that money towards a new rad, pull the t-stat yourself and see if it needs replacing, and do the water pump yourself. I've not had to remove the battery tray for that, but it would make your life easier.
     
  11. Lochsa

    Lochsa

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    I'll have a look. thanks, and i'll let you know when it's fixed if she wanted to trade!
     
  12. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    The water pump is a sinch. It uses a metal gasket, unlike the the FJ60 that you have to scrape off the old gasket. Make sure you get a gasket when you order the pump. Even if it is not leaking and you are replacing the pthermo and getting new rad, once you get it together it will die on you and you will have do all the work again.
    Or does this only happen to me???
    kurt
     
  13. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Lochsa,
    When you replace the thermostat be sure to buy a new gasket. It doesn't come with a new one. The gasket has a groove on the inside and it fits around the themostat like a grommet. You will also notice a little valve on the thermostat. This should be oriented so that the valve is at 12 noon (i.e. straight up.) Thermostat R&R on a non-supercharged 1FZ-FE is easy compared to removing the radiator and the water pump.

    If you are going to do this job yourself then take some time and seach the archives here and on the old SOR forum on flushing the cooling system. Here's a recent thread:

    http://www.landcruisin.com/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=8;t=000220;p=1

    -B-
     
  14. Lochsa

    Lochsa

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    Wanted to say a big thanks to all who gave advice on the rad/waterpump. Got it all taken care of last week (finally!) with a new rad, waterpump, and thermostat. My girl's cruiser is now up and running with no leaks! She doesn't want to trade for my bronco though...

    On a separate note, she does have the optional lockers. Got to fooling around with it, and the front lockers go right in, but the rear locker light just keeps on flashing... Is there something I can do to try to get it working right aside from pulling the whole thing apart? I did a bit of searching around here, but only came up with some tips from the slee website for taking it all apart. I will do this if needed, but am hoping there may be some trick for excercising them after not being used for years. Thanks again for all your guys' help!
     
  15. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    [quote author=Lochsa link=board=2;threadid=4956;start=msg45861#msg45861 date=1064855206]
    she does have the optional lockers. [/quote]

    The first thing you'll want to do is to "CEMENT THIS RELATIONSHIP". I'd start by giving her some roses and candy and going down on her immediately!

    [quote author=Lochsa link=board=2;threadid=4956;start=msg45861#msg45861 date=1064855206]

    Got to fooling around with it, and the front lockers go right in, but the rear locker light just keeps on flashing... [/quote]

    This isn't abnormal. You might have to move the truck some back and forth and in a turning motion to help the locker splines to line up. The rear is a notched type which needs to be more accurately lined up to engage. Also if they aren't execised regularly then that will slow them down as well.
     
  16. ppc

    ppc M Go Blue

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    The locker may be locking perfectly but the indicator switch may not be functioning. If you drive in circles on loose or slightly muddy surface you will see a difference when it engages. On mine I took out the switch and squirted a bunch of WD40 into it as I worked the spring. Test it with a OHM meter. Its a good way to save $50.
     
  17. Lochsa

    Lochsa

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    As always, you guys are a wealth of tlc information and dating advice. Thanks again for all your help!