viper keyless entry locks but won't unlock (2 Viewers)

[txgringo]

I had a Viper 4806v keyless entry and remote start installed today. Remote start works great. Fob locks the doors just fine. Unlocking the doors is another story.

The installer said he spent about two hours troubleshooting it. Tested the Unlock wires for continuity. Confirmed the unit was sending the unlock signal. Installed a Door Unlock Isolation Circuit.

Still no-go.

I found some discussions on mud where people had the same issue but none where anybody had a fix. Googled relentlessly but can't seem to find a fix. Anybody run into this before? Any suggestions for what else to check?

 

[superjuice]

The unlock signal is simply grounding the correct wire. If it's sending the ground signal then he probably doesn't have the correct unlock wire. Can you manually ground the wire he has chosen as the unlock circuit to confirm?

 

[NCFJ]

I do not know the answer to your question but I can tell you this. Over the years I have removed countless aftermarket security/start systems from vehicles because of all the issues they cause. The biggest issue they tend to have is parasitic draining of the battery when left sitting more than a few days.
Just food for thought.

 

[downshift13]

I found this online.

from what I recall when I did my friends 80 series you need both unlock wires, BLUE/YELLOW and BLUE/ORANGE. One unlocks the driver door, while the other unlocks the rest. Also, your installer would need to diode isolate the wires. Hope this helps.

 

[n00g7]

Have to make sure you goto a competent place... paid my guy extra to clean up everything under the dash I didn't want to deal with from POs hack job alarm/start button.

FWIW, I have the 4806v w/ remote start, works fine. Installer issue.

The only issue with the unit is that remote turns off when I hit the brake (before turning key to on), which is habit for starting from other vehicles.

 

[landcrshr]

No need to diode-isolate anything.

The factory alarm taps into the "unlock" wire from the passenger door key-switch, which unlocks all of the doors.

Behind the driver's kick panel, look for an 8-pin connector tucked into the A-pillar, the BLUE/YELLOW wire is the one you want.

"LOCK" is the GREEN/RED.

 

[DARKNESS]

That exact thing happened to me when I installed without diodes. Read through this thread on my install.

Viper 211HV Keyless Entry Install

 

[landcrshr]

Here's a simplified drawing of how the factory alarm triggers the door locks. It shouldn't be different for any aftermarket system with grounding outputs.

 

[sbman]

No need to diode-isolate anything.

The factory alarm taps into the "unlock" wire from the passenger door key-switch, which unlocks all of the doors.

Behind the driver's kick panel, look for an 8-pin connector tucked into the A-pillar, the BLUE/YELLOW wire is the one you want.

"LOCK" is the GREEN/RED.

This is not correct. You have to tap into two wires to get it to unlock and you have to diode isolate them or you screw up the lock relay logic. The single wire only works when the doors are already open. If the door is closed and locked with the key, the L/Y (blue/yellow) wire alone will not unlock the doors. You also need the L/O (blue/orange) wire with diode isolators. This is exactly what the factory alarm does. Or you could use the existing connectors under your seat and not have to mess with anything under the dash!

Upgrade RS3000 to other alarm without going under the dash. - Tutorial

 

[sbman]

Here's a simplified drawing of how the factory alarm triggers the door locks. It shouldn't be different for any aftermarket system with grounding outputs.

Your diagram is incorrect. The RS3000 alarm attaches to two wires and has internal isolation diodes. This is true for 96/97, I am not sure about earlier years I haven't looked.

 

[sbman]

Here is a join of two pages of the '96 EWD. The wires that the factory alarm connects to are circled in red. You'll note it gets power, lock, unlock and door unlock detection switch. The L/O (blue/orange) and L/Y (blue/yellow) are the ones you want. Orient the diodes so that the bands are connected to the alarm/keyless entry ground pulse unlock wire.

 

[landcrshr]

Your diagram is incorrect.

I'll take another look...

 

[sbman]

I'll take another look...

I just spent about 8 hours this last weekend tearing the harness out of the truck, dis-assembling it, tracing it and documenting it, re-assembling it and re-installing it. Fun stuff.

 

[landcrshr]

I just spent about 8 hours this last weekend tearing the harness out of the truck, dis-assembling it, tracing it and documenting it, re-assembling it and re-installing it. Fun stuff.

Yeah, I browsed your thread a bit. Well done.

 

[txgringo]

Thanks for all the info guys. The installer did tell me he was using the Blue/Yellow and Blue/Orange pairs and that he had installed an isolation circuit using diodes. By the time I got there he had everything buttoned back up so I wasn't able to look into it personally, not that I would know what was what with this wiring. I'll share the info gathered here (especially that from @sbman) and see if that gets me any further.

FWIW, it's really nice to be able to hit the start button from my desk and have the engine ready to go when I get there (about 100 yards indoors through several walls, then another 100 yards outdoors). I haven't tested the distance, but Viper advertises up to 1 mile with clear line of sight... I wish I would have pulled the trigger on it months ago. Now if I can just get it to unlock...

 

[sbman]

Does the door switch work to unlock the doors? If so, it's possible there is something wrong with your passenger door key switch. Double unlock the passenger door and the locks should unlock. If that doesn't work, something is wrong with your door lock or internal wiring.

 

[txgringo]

The switches will unlock and lock the doors. The only exception is the rear DS door which has a bad actuator. All others work fine from the switch or by turning the key in the lock. Only thing is that mine is a double unlock from DS to unlock all doors, and single unlock from PS will unlock all doors.....

 

[sbman]

The switches will unlock and lock the doors. The only exception is the rear DS door which has a bad actuator. All others work fine from the switch or by turning the key in the lock. Only thing is that mine is a double unlock from DS to unlock all doors, and single unlock from PS will unlock all doors.....

Yes, that's correct. I forgot the passenger side is a single unlock. Possibly your installer accidentally put the diodes in backwards? They need to have the banded side installed towards your alarm.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Definitely have to diode isolate and it's easy. I installed my remote start system myself. And learned that the hard way