Viper 211HV Keyless Entry Install (2 Viewers)

[DARKNESS]

Like many of you, I got tired of the RS3000 and it's quirks. I removed it awhile ago, but I found that while I didn't miss the alarm, I still wanted keyless entry. So, I decided to install a basic keyless entry system in my 1996 FZJ80. I chose the Viper 211HV because I found one cheap on Amazon.

I won't go through the RS3000 removal. There's plenty of good threads on that. However, I will say that all the connectors stuffed in the driver side kick panel had significant green corrosion on them due to what appears to be a windshield leak. In addition, most of the wires in the RS3000 harness had black surface corrosion under the jacket for the entire length of the wire. I'm guessing this is part of the reason these things fail so often. Also, one of these connectors controls the power windows, and corrosion in those connectors and wires may contribute to the slow windows that many of us experience.

As far as the install, the first step was to figure out the wiring. There are some pretty good threads on this that helped me out:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...led-diy-remote-start-alarm-keyless-entry.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/689936-how-install-aftermarket-alarm-1994-a.html

However, I still had some issues figuring out how to wire everything. First, I didn't understand how the system worked. I've attached a picture explaining it. Basically, the keyless entry box has two SPDT relays: one that activates when you hit the lock button, and one that activates when you hit the unlock button. When properly connected, the existing system wiring passes through the relay's normally closed connections in those relays. When you click lock or unlock on your transmitter, the appropriate relay activates and grounds the appropriate wire on the door lock control relay (located in the driver side door). This type of system eliminates the need for diodes. WRONG! CHECK OUT MY LATER POSTS THAT EXPLAIN HOW TO DO IT RIGHT!

 

[DARKNESS]

The door lock wiring is the hardest part to figure out. Everything else is pretty simple. Here's how I connected everything:

THIS IS WRONG, DON'T DO IT THIS WAY!

 

[DARKNESS]

The connectors you need to tap into are shown in these pictures. Most of the wires you need are in the driver side kick panel (Connectors BJ2 and IE1). If you want to use the parking light flash feature you need to tap the green wire in the large connector back by the firewall (ID2 Pin 7). If you want to use the horn feature, you need to tap the green wire with the red strip from under the steering column (C14 Pin 10).

These wires are all tapped by the existing RS3000. You could splice into that harness if you like, but the colors may be different. I chose to be super anal and remove the BJ2 and IE1 connectors from the RS3000 harness, take out the terminals, and crimp new terminals on to the harness provided from Viper. I've shown the terminals in the attached picture. I got them from newunitedracetech.com. They are:

Sumitomo 2.3II(090II) TS Unsealed Series Female Terminal 0.5-1.25mm2 [22-16 AWG] [Brass/Tin] (6102)

Sumitomo 2.3II(090II) TS Unsealed Series Male Terminal 0.5-1.25mm2 [22-16 AWG] [Brass/Tin] (6099)

 

[DARKNESS]

The final step is mounting the Viper 211HV box. I found a great place above the transmission ECU. There is a threaded hole up there with nothing in it. I'm guessing it's for some awesome feature that's available in non-US markets. I just bolted an L-bracket from the hardware store to that hole and to the 211HV box. In fact the spacing of the holes on the brackets was perfect, I didn't even need to drill new holes. I was really happy with this mounting position. It's very solid and out of the way.

 

[DARKNESS]

The only other issue with the install is where to install the antenna. It's just a wire, so it can really go anywhere as long as you don't coil it up. I actually extended it to about 8' long and ran it up the A-pillar on the driverside, over the top of the windshield, and down the A-pillar on the passenger side. I dropped the sunroof controls and used a fish tape to route the wire under the headliner. This turned out to be really easy. Probably took 10 minutes. Hopefully this will give me the maximum range possible.

I'm very happy with the system. It locks and unlocks all the doors with one click (no double click needed like with some systems). The parking lights flash with lock and unlock. The second time you hit lock or unlock, the horn chirps. It's kind of loud, so getting a quieter aftermarket piezo chirp might be in my future. Also, the dome light comes on, and stays on for 30 seconds when you unlock. Finally it automatically locks the doors with the ignition turn on and off, but you can disable this feature. I may do that.

 

[DARKNESS]

Perhaps I was a little too quick to declare victory. It tested fine, but it won't unlock the door once you lock and close the door. I think it's a safety feature which will require me to hook up the unlock detect wire with diodes. I'll try to get that done and report back.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

I don't believe you can functionally do the lock/unlock without diode isolation...

 

[DARKNESS]

Looks that way. Guess I didn't understand how everything worked.

 

[DARKNESS]

Got it all sorted out! The diodes are necessary for the unlock circuit to function properly. The reason is that in order to allow you to crack your window without fear of someone using a stick to push your unlock switch, Toyota designed the door unlock circuit with two wires that need to be grounded (to unlock it) once the door is locked and closed. The first is the door unlock switch wire (blue-yellow) and the second is the door lock detection switch wire (blue-orange) which is grounded when you turn your key in the tumbler. The diodes allow you to ground both wires with one relay while keeping the circuits separate and preserving this safety feature. I think you could probably connect these wires to the relay without diodes if you didn't care about keeping this feature, but I'm not sure about that.

I've attached an updated pinout and unlock circuit wiring diagram as well as some picures of my harness. I'm getting about 100' of range with this system, but that was slightly downhill pointing through the back of the rig. I'd expect with a clear shot at the front or side I could get more.

 

[DARKNESS]

Here's a picture of the finished harness:

 

[Darasick]

Nice job Darkness! I have one with remote start that I need to install and this will get me started in the right direction. Would it be too much to ask for you to email the latest and greatest pinout and diagram?

 

[DARKNESS]

Thanks. I can email it but it would be the same thing shown on post #9.

 

[brakasha]

Hey, I realize this thread is pretty dead, but:

1) Your pictures were incredibly helpful. The layout of the IE1, BJ2 and ID2 with descriptions of the pins and their purpose was what has gotten me even as far as I am in my install of a 5X02 (not sure what series this is, but presumably similar to a 5901 or 5702?) Also, the harness you put together made me slightly moist when I saw the pic. That's soame professional style right there. So I guess this point is just a kudos and an expression of my appreciation.

2) My system is wired up. The alarm works, the doors lock and unlock with the key fob, I used diodes to wire up the unlock and door trigger wires, and everything works. Now I just need to get the remote starter set up. I'm seeing a bunch of different wires, both on the Viper system and in various stock harnesses that are purportedly for ignition/starter and other stuff. I have the Viper remote start wires spliced into the ignition T-harness and it's perfect. I have my break disconnect wire tapped into the brake sensor. But there's like a half dozen random wires, between grounds, starter signal wires, etc that just seem to be redundant. I did notice that there is an ignition wire that runs through the BJ2 harness (blue/black, heavier gauge). I have a sneaking suspicion that this wire has to do with my problem.

So... any tips? Anything I'm forgetting to rig up? I have the pins set, the system programmed to auto transmission mode, the break wire rigged up, and presumably all grounds that are necessary. There's probably one key missing piece that I can't put my finger on. pls halp

 

[DARKNESS]

I think you're way beyond what I did. I've never installed a remote ignition system. I assume you have the EWD? If not that will probably help you figure it out.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1996-fsm-and-ewd.600442/

 

[Girl und Panzer]

I have the same issue with my Viper VSS3000. Where exactly does the diode go? I don't think my '94 has relays for the door lock (to my knowledge), and I didn't have any factory alarm. My door control wires go straight from where I patched them into the factory wire to the unit, so would I just find this detection wire and splice it into the Viper unlock wire with a diode in the middle?

 

[2fpower]

Thank you for this! Been struggling with my Viper install.

I know this is an older thread. Question I have is related to the wiring at the ignition key using the T method from the rs3000 wiring harness. Is the wiring of the LX450 the same as the LC wiring there? It definitely is different at the kick panel!!!

I wired my starter portion using the thread mentioned above, which is for a lx450 and I hope it is the same.

Thanks,

 

[DARKNESS]

Nice. Get it done? Mine's still working great after 3 years.

 

[TrickyT]

This related thread is definitely worth looking at too: Upgrade RS3000 to other alarm without going under the dash. - Tutorial

 

[DARKNESS]

That's pretty sweet, I'd probably do it that way if I did it again.

 

[2fpower]

Very neat link.... wish I saw it earlier.

Not done yet, need time in garage. Should have all harnesses built on bench. I am using the rs3000 harness for three T harnesses.