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valve adjustment?

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by semlin, Sep 4, 2003.

  1. semlin

    semlin rocker

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    Finally replaced the aftermarket belts on my cruiser with oem. What a difference! I had managed to quiet the aftermarket belts down before by adjustment but I never suspected how bad they were until I actually changed them.

    Anyway, now I can hear a distinct clicking from the motor that I couldn't hear before. It sounds like valves but is not the usual valve clatter /rattle you hear (e.g., like a diesel) but a more "concentrated" and regular mechanical clicking. It's coming from the valve cover area and I have not heard it in another 80 I have listened to (I went to look at one on for sale on a lot just to hear it running).

    Now the problem. The Toyota dealers in town want 6 hours plus parts (over $700 before dust settles) to adjust the valves. No one else in town has the SST's to adjust the valves so I am hooped. Before I commit to such an expense, is there an alternate explanation? I took it into a Toyota dealer first thing this am and their "landcruiser" guy (I have met a couple now and this should definitely be in quotes) had never worked on an 80 before, knew zero about the engine, had no clue whether the noise was normal and was not sure if it was valves or not but figured that was a good place to start.
     
  2. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    Simon,

    Valve adjustment on a 1FZ engine is a labor-intensive job. The whole top end of the motor needs to be un-dressed and the coolant should be drained down some before removing the throttle body. I did mine and it took me the better part of a day and I did not need to change any shims,(did get parched partway thru and had to proceed to step 6 early ::) ) every valve was within tolerance. You should replace the valve cover gasket and the spark plug tube seals and the throttle body gasket.
    If you have not changed the PHH, it would be a good time to do it with the valve cover removed. Most of the 1Fz's that I have been around have needed no shims unless the head was re-worked. I imagine Christo has seen more and could speculate on what percentage of engines actually need to be adjusted. Removing the shims is pretty straight forward, except for the two rearmost valves for #6 cylinder. If they are out adjustment it requires removal of both camshafts to get to the shims.
    The recommended interval is every 60,000 miles. I stretched mine to 92,000 and they were all in the middle.
    FWIW, the fuel injectors "click" when they fire. I don't know if that is what you are hearing or not.

    Dan.
     
  3. Hltoppr

    Hltoppr SILVER Star

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    The dealer here only charges $118 for a valve adjust on the mighty 3FE! :flipoff2:

    -H-
     
  4. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    H-

    Thats 'cuz ya take half the valves away right off the top ::)

    You know, half the valves, half the horsepower :flipoff2:
     
  5. 91kruzr

    91kruzr

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    Adjustment on the 3fe is much less involved,right? ???
     
  6. semlin

    semlin rocker

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    Thanks Dan, I knew it was labour intensive from the FSM but did not fully appreciate the resulting pocket book impact :'(. I figured not parts to speak of equals a $350 job 8).

    Fuel injector click?? Hard to say. It's definitely very regular and closely spaced and not a standard loose valve sound from my prior experience: nothing like "Start up rattle". It's also quiet enough that you can't hear it with the hood (sorry b-wulf, I mean bonnet) closed and its masked by noisy belts. Maybe I'll go listen to Riley's engine. The one I saw on the lot had aftermarket belts but they seemed a lot quieter than my former pos belts (one of which was tearing after under 5,000 miles).

    BTW, are you saying the PHH is an easy job with the valve cover off? How much additional time would your shop ding to do that during a valve job? Also is there anything else I can more efficiently do at the same time to help me rationalize this expense, like throttle body servicing etc.. (Maybe I should fit a blower ;) )

    thanks and wheres the beer smiley when you need it? 8)
    S
     
  7. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    See the blower.........be the blower.......... ;)
     
  8. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    IMO a clearance check is no big deal at all. Pull the valve cover and check them. If you've got to change shims, then it's more intensive, but still not that big a deal.

    The problem is no dealer in the country stocks them, so you get to check your clearances, figure which shims you can mix and match, and then order the ones you need. Button it up and take it back apart after getting the shims. Remember to wait overnight to get the motor nice and cold before checking clearances.

    The 3FE motor is pushrod style, so you just need a 12mm wrench and flat blade screwdriver. Much easier, but you get to adjust them every 15k miles. My 80 went 146k miles w/o adjustment and was still in the middle of the range before the piston melted ;).
     
  9. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    [quote author=cruiserman link=board=2;threadid=4953;start=msg37946#msg37946 date=1062707928]

    The problem is no dealer in the country stocks them


    [/quote]

    I don't think so...................... ::)

    Our techs give me crap all the time "watch, it fits his cruiser, He'll have the POS. I need a Camry part he don't have"
     
  10. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    [quote author=semlin link=board=2;threadid=4953;start=msg37943#msg37943 date=1062706902]

    Fuel injector click?? BTW, are you saying the PHH is an easy job with the valve cover off? How much additional time would your shop ding to do that during a valve job? Also is there anything else I can more efficiently do at the same time to help me rationalize this expense, like throttle body servicing etc.. (Maybe I should fit a blower ;) )


    [/quote]

    I would think you are hearing the fuel injectors click. An exhaust leak sounds the same way.

    The PHH is easier with the VC removed, but it is by no means easy. The V/C only interferes with one PIA bolt. The rest is still a BEEEE-OICH. There is no reason why you should not clean your t-body while it's off. I changed the gasket, plug seals plugs, hoses, checked valves, cleaned t-body, got the VSS loose and easy to remove, etc. in one big maintanance day. Ask Reid Anderson if you should put off doing you PHH for another day. ;)
     
  11. Riley

    Riley

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    Ok - thread hijack and newbie question......

    What's the PHH?
     
  12. shocker

    shocker

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  13. Riley

    Riley

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    Right. I thought it was called the stupid little heater hose. Read all about it.

    Man the initials on this stuff can be a killer.

    PHH == SLHH
     
  14. DanKunz

    DanKunz SILVER Star

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    My 3FE clicks (injectors)

    Good way to tell on the 3FE is to listen under the fender of the DS, then the passenger side....

    you can hear the injectors on the DS but not so much on the PS. If you hear it loud in both places it is just the normal sounds of a 3FE loving you and you should adjust it to keep it happy and loyal as it lugs your butt sluggishly about town and trail.

    I love my lil 3FE...
     
  15. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    [quote author=DanKunz link=board=2;threadid=4953;start=msg38136#msg38136 date=1062760953]

    I love my lil 3FE...
    [/quote]

    Somebody should. :D

    Remember, you can love you 3FE, just don't LOVE your 3FE. I think there are laws against that in some states. :flipoff2:
     
  16. DanKunz

    DanKunz SILVER Star

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    I am in Georgia so anything goes! ;)
     
  17. medtro

    medtro

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    Mine exploded at 67,000 miles.