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Vacume leak/Rough idle

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by RandyS, May 28, 2003.

  1. RandyS

    RandyS

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    ???Has anyone here found out that the reason there 3FE was idling rough was because of a vacume leak. If so where was your leak?
    I am about ready to give up on my 92 FJ80, i have had a complete tune up, valves adjusted, new TPS, PVC, air filter, fuel filter, throttle & transmission cables adjusted. Intake system cleaned, fuel system cleaned. All this has helped but it will not idle smooth and sometimes it will idle even rougher. I did have my toyota mechanic spray starting fluid around the vacume hoses to see it that made a difference, nothing. What else can i do i have run out of ideas
     
  2. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    Try looking at the EGR valve. I've seen more than a couple on different makes not close completely giving a rough idle. And the fact that it can get worse at times could also indicate that. One other area is the brake booster. Just unplug the hose and block it to test it.
     
  3. Seminole

    Seminole

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    In addition to the EGR valve, you might want to check the main air intake hoses(the big ones) for cracks, particularly on the underside between the ribs (if you haven't done so already). Next, check the check valve on the A.I.R. system. This had an effect on mine being as the check valve had disintegrated. Finally you can check/clean the idle speed control valve to see if that helps. Have you checked the O2 sensors? Most of us(3FE's) have tried everything but I doubt you will ever get "perfectly smooth idle". How much fluctuation do you have? anywhere between 650 and 550 seems to be the norm.
     
  4. RandyS

    RandyS

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    :beer:Thanks for all the information, i am going to replace the EGR with a new one.
    I might as well i've replaced almost everything else, also plan on replacing the vacume hoses. I do have 3 more questions.
    1. Can anyone post step by step procedure for replacing the 3fe EGR valve.
    2. Anyone have the factory part number for the air intake hose before the mass air flow meter and the hose after.
    3. What is the best way to check for a vacume leak at the brake booster Thanks again
     
  5. Seminole

    Seminole

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    Do you have the FSM yet? Not really much of a write up for replacing the EGR. If you really want a detailed write up, PM me and I'll send you what the FSM says. In the meantime:
    1. Park and let the exhaust cooldown (@4 hrs +/-)
    2. remove the EGR pipe and clean(the inside)
    3. remove the three bolts on the EGR and remove with gasket
    4. remove the small bolt in the end of the EGR and install in the new one
    5. install the new gasket and EGR valve
    6. connect EGR pipe
    7. start vehicle and check for leaks.
    About a :banana: and 6x :beer: job!
    Of course, you can check the valve to make sure it works by checking the diaphram. Get a Haynes manual if you can't get the FSM yet. All of your troubleshooting questions can be answered with either book. The FSM is better but the Haynes will do. You can get the Haynes(@$20)most any auto parts store, the FSM you can get through the dealer(@$75-$100).
    Don't have the PN for the intake hases but mine were about $50 a piece. HTH. :D
     
  6. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    Randy,

    There is no hose "before" the airflow meter, it bolts directly to the air cleaner lid. there are 2 hoses in between the airflow meter and the throttle body. The one next to the airflow meter is a 17881-61110, list is $47.04 . The one next to the throttle body is a 17882-61080, list is $65.65

    &nbsp:Dan :beer:
     
  7. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    Randy,
    I've always just disconnected the booster and pluged the line. If you drive it the brakes will need some extra push to work.