No issue here with Seq 150a, photoman bracket and pulley. I think it's over two years with the pulley and more with the 150A
Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Photoman
- Start date
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
NO. That isn't how it works. Let's say you have a partially discharged battery and start your truck. The voltage rises to say 14-14.5 volts in the system and the battery accepts charge at what ever rate that it can-usually much less than you would think, but let's say a 50 amp rate. As the battery becomes charged, internal resistance rises in the battery until it is fully charged and then it stops accepting charge. The rate of charge goes to zero because all of the lead sulfate has been converted to sulfuric acid and elemental lead. Up to say 14.5(up to 14.8 in some systems) volts or so, it sits there happily charged not accepting additional charge but not doing anything else either. All the electric power needed to run the ignition, fans, computer, stereo etc comes from the alternator which is making a constant voltage around 14 volts, and what ever the current demand is, up to it's maximum capacity.
Now if your voltage regulator breaks, and the alternator voltage goes to 20 volts (which it easily can) you get electrolysis of water on the battery plates and this kills the battery quickly, either by "boiling" off the water (it actually isn't boiling, it's hydrogen gas and oxygen gas being released). In a sealed battery the case will swell from the pressure and will usually vent the pressure before the case ruptures-note the vent on an AGM battery.
So you could have a 300 amp alternator that with a working regulator, would be perfectly safe for your batteries. You just need to ask if you need all the power.
So for NW WHeeler - you bring up the excellent example of a fridge running all night. Again, let's look at what happens. Your fridge draws 3 amps when running and it probably runs 1/3 of the time on a hot night. We'll call your non driving time 15 hours. So your fridge draws 3 amps for 5 hours-that's 15 amp hours, which will be replaced by your alternator in 15-30 minutes by your stock alternator, or 15-30 minutes by a 150 amp alternator. Sounds weird right? but your battery can only accept charge so fast, and it is the limiting factor in recharging. And in real life it's more complicated than that because the battery accepts a high rate of charge for the fist 80% or so and then slows down accepting the final bit of charge much more slowly. So the point is, the bigger alternator doesn't help you much.
Regarding how much power does it take to run the truck-I am speculating, but the ignition, A/C, fans, stereo etc probably use 10-20 amps. That's a guess. Modern cars use more due to all the electronic systems.
Now if your voltage regulator breaks, and the alternator voltage goes to 20 volts (which it easily can) you get electrolysis of water on the battery plates and this kills the battery quickly, either by "boiling" off the water (it actually isn't boiling, it's hydrogen gas and oxygen gas being released). In a sealed battery the case will swell from the pressure and will usually vent the pressure before the case ruptures-note the vent on an AGM battery.
So you could have a 300 amp alternator that with a working regulator, would be perfectly safe for your batteries. You just need to ask if you need all the power.
So for NW WHeeler - you bring up the excellent example of a fridge running all night. Again, let's look at what happens. Your fridge draws 3 amps when running and it probably runs 1/3 of the time on a hot night. We'll call your non driving time 15 hours. So your fridge draws 3 amps for 5 hours-that's 15 amp hours, which will be replaced by your alternator in 15-30 minutes by your stock alternator, or 15-30 minutes by a 150 amp alternator. Sounds weird right? but your battery can only accept charge so fast, and it is the limiting factor in recharging. And in real life it's more complicated than that because the battery accepts a high rate of charge for the fist 80% or so and then slows down accepting the final bit of charge much more slowly. So the point is, the bigger alternator doesn't help you much.
Regarding how much power does it take to run the truck-I am speculating, but the ignition, A/C, fans, stereo etc probably use 10-20 amps. That's a guess. Modern cars use more due to all the electronic systems.
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Some of us have gone over the top with electrical gadgets and I'm sure a lot of us are demanding more than most modern cars account for let alone our 20 year old system: winch, driving lights, fog lights, rock lights, DRLs, backup lights, utility lights, GPS NAV head unit with full color display, rear/aux cameras, amplified sub/speakers, aux cooling fan, meth injector, Ham radio, CB radio, amplified PA speaker(s), radio scanner, scan gauge, auto dimming mirror, radar detector, heated seats, heated mirrors, rear entertainment system, inverter(s), multiple add on 12v outlets for cellphones/ tablets, onboard air, refrigerator, trailer lights, trailer braking, sub tank fuel pump. That's just a few off the top of my head.
I personally feel it's beneficial to upgrade the electrical system: larger gauge wires (battery, grounds, alternator, and starter), second battery, and upgraded alternator.
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Cruiserdrew
On the way there
You and I do not disagree. Your example with all the power using accessories may justify a larger alternator, but if you have not added up your loads, or measured your loads, you don't really know.
You could measure the draw of your truck and you would know how close you are to the edge of your electric envelope.
Winching really plays no role in whether you need a larger alternator. First, you rarely use it, and when you do, it's drawing 450 amps or so, so no amount of practical alternator is going to supply it, and you are still relying on stored battery power to run it. It's true that you'll discharge a little less, and thus be recharged a little faster, but from a practical standpoint, it's going to be a minute or two either way. Not enough to justify a bigger alternator. But again, a second battery is of great advantage here.
I'm all for bigger, better, overkill, etc. But if you need to choose between dual batteries ora 50 amp alternator upgrade, there is far more utility in an additional battery.
okay thats what I thought, its amp on demand, therefore eliminating my theory that my alternator was pooched... in my other thread, I did say I found my bracket was not tensioned up correctly causing less ouput than the system could demand. Therefore it stressed the battery over a 4 hour drive to the max and caused the "boiling" of the battery, thank god for an AGM in this case......
i had a couple people for some reason convince me the amps should always be hald at idle and full load at 2250 rpm, but it didnt really make any sense to me. But them being AST and me being an instrument/electrical tech, I thought well maybe they are right
I think the general consensus of 80 owners would agree that 70A stock alternators are not the ideal power level for those of us that have winches, amps, stereos, phones, inverters, fridges,light bars, etc. When I'm out I want to know that there is plenty of amps on tap to keep the batteries topped off full until I've stopped for the night, in the morning it's good to know that those batteries are topped off quick in the morning as well.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
It may be your conclusion and that's cool but hardly the general consensus. I have all of those things on my truck and I've never had an issue with the stock 90 amp alternator. (In fact I've not run out of juice with the 40 amps in my FJ40 or the 60 amps in my FJ60. )Not to say it could not be an issue, but generally it's plenty. If you have a special need, like an ear splitting stereo, then by all means get a bigger alternator. But as discussed, the batteries won't charge any faster in the morning. With either alternator you're looking at fairly rapid recharging-but full charge on your battery is limited by the slow absorb phase of the battery itself, not by the current output of the alternator.
Good info cruiserdrew!!
- Thread starter
- #309
Here are a few actual tested amp draw numbers that each accessory uses.
1993 Landcruiser 150 amp Sequoia alternator small pulley 2000 rpm
Fluke 337 clamp meter
key on 6.7 amps
motor running 8.5
headlights low beam 12.7
headlights high beam 21.3
2 interior lights 3.3
radio 3.5
rear defog .8
heater fan lo 2.9
heater fan lo med 4.4
heater fan med high 6.1
heater fan hi 8.8
rear heater lo .7
rear heater hi 2.6
front wipers on low up to 9.5
front wiper on high up to 10.6
rear wiper 7.8
map light 2.9
Maximum total with Fluke meter was about 57 amps draw. A digital meter has problems with things like the wipers with the pause to switch directions. I did a video with my Sun VAT-40 and it showed somewhere between 60-70 amps draw to run the cruiser with most of those accessories on as might happen on a winter night here. I believe the difference was in the starting number 8.5 amps Fluke to 18-20 amps VAT-40. I attribute this to the extra 10 amps going to charging the battery while I did the test with the VAT-40. My AC does not work so I could not include that number.
I also load tested maximum alternator output which was 180 amps for the Sequoia alternator. This is in the ballpark of the 170 amps when I had it tested at my alternator shop (See post #3 in this thread). Second video below.
Everything done to the best of my ability and knowledge.
Bill
1993 Landcruiser 150 amp Sequoia alternator small pulley 2000 rpm
Fluke 337 clamp meter
key on 6.7 amps
motor running 8.5
headlights low beam 12.7
headlights high beam 21.3
2 interior lights 3.3
radio 3.5
rear defog .8
heater fan lo 2.9
heater fan lo med 4.4
heater fan med high 6.1
heater fan hi 8.8
rear heater lo .7
rear heater hi 2.6
front wipers on low up to 9.5
front wiper on high up to 10.6
rear wiper 7.8
map light 2.9
Maximum total with Fluke meter was about 57 amps draw. A digital meter has problems with things like the wipers with the pause to switch directions. I did a video with my Sun VAT-40 and it showed somewhere between 60-70 amps draw to run the cruiser with most of those accessories on as might happen on a winter night here. I believe the difference was in the starting number 8.5 amps Fluke to 18-20 amps VAT-40. I attribute this to the extra 10 amps going to charging the battery while I did the test with the VAT-40. My AC does not work so I could not include that number.
I also load tested maximum alternator output which was 180 amps for the Sequoia alternator. This is in the ballpark of the 170 amps when I had it tested at my alternator shop (See post #3 in this thread). Second video below.
Everything done to the best of my ability and knowledge.
Bill
Thanks for the numbers Bill. Sounds like some folks may want to take it easy with accessory usage on those cold wet nights. That's really the last time you want your alternator not being able to keep up and killing your battery.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I did test ( more less the same test that Bill did with a Fluke 337 clamp ) in my 80 with all lights ( not LED ) both AC working and also the small fridge ( factory one ) I also have an aftermaket IC fan and the factory AC fan, radio, small bass in the rear with small amp, rear LED.
At that time, engine idling with my 150 amp alternator my count was 72 amps ..
At that time, engine idling with my 150 amp alternator my count was 72 amps ..
pretty sure Bill still has them available, just email him directly
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Nothing different in regards to changing belts.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
I just wanted to give Bill a big shout out for not only a high quality product but for EXCELLENT customer service. I bought the bracket back in January but finally got around to installing it when I pulled my motor over the last few weeks. He had indicated that there was a possibility that the pulley may rub on the alternator housing as some of the rebuilt units were not clearing the housing, he was right.
Long story short is I had to have this buttoned up this weekend and only found out that it was a problem on Tuesday
. With my timeline in dire jeopardy I frantically contacted him asking him to FedEx a new pulley to me. I did not have a lot of confidence in making this happen but Bill came through with flying colors! 
Not only did he get me the part THE NEXT DAY, he did NOT charge me for the extra cost to ship it, even though I created the issue! 
Thank you again Bill for providing a great product and some of the best customer service I have seen!
Long story short is I had to have this buttoned up this weekend and only found out that it was a problem on Tuesday
. With my timeline in dire jeopardy I frantically contacted him asking him to FedEx a new pulley to me. I did not have a lot of confidence in making this happen but Bill came through with flying colors! Not only did he get me the part THE NEXT DAY, he did NOT charge me for the extra cost to ship it, even though I created the issue! Thank you again Bill for providing a great product and some of the best customer service I have seen!
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Hello,
I am planning for big trip in next summer and I would like to have the common combo on the back of the car - ARB fridge, lights, couple of water pumps, ARB compressor, some converter for laptops and camera chargers etc.
I have a stock alternator which is original and I just changed the brushes so I am thinking that prior to the big trip (next summer) it would be good idea either to change it or replace it. I see a lot of discussion about the Sequoia bigger alternator and customized bracket. My question is :
* what exactly is needed to have the upgraded alternator from Sequoia ? - alternator itself, maybe a new alternator connector
* do I really need to upgrade the alternator , I am electric an-alphabet and I am terrified just looking at wiring diagrams. I would love to keep it stock if possible
* is the bracket still being delivered
Few points:
* I have dual battery system from IPOR which uses sure power battery separator (Sure Power 12V Uni-Directional Battery Separator (100 Amp) - Part#: 1314)
I still need to figure out couple of things with my system. Namely these ones:
Jorge
I am planning for big trip in next summer and I would like to have the common combo on the back of the car - ARB fridge, lights, couple of water pumps, ARB compressor, some converter for laptops and camera chargers etc.
I have a stock alternator which is original and I just changed the brushes so I am thinking that prior to the big trip (next summer) it would be good idea either to change it or replace it. I see a lot of discussion about the Sequoia bigger alternator and customized bracket. My question is :
* what exactly is needed to have the upgraded alternator from Sequoia ? - alternator itself, maybe a new alternator connector
* do I really need to upgrade the alternator , I am electric an-alphabet and I am terrified just looking at wiring diagrams. I would love to keep it stock if possible
* is the bracket still being delivered
Few points:
* I have dual battery system from IPOR which uses sure power battery separator (Sure Power 12V Uni-Directional Battery Separator (100 Amp) - Part#: 1314)
I still need to figure out couple of things with my system. Namely these ones:
- I have 2 AWG cable between primary battery and separator and another 2 AWG between secondary battery and separator. These cables are not fused. I see a lot of people are using ANL fuses on these cables.
- What size of the cable should I use from battery to fuse boxe in back of the vehicle (there is some cable already installed , not sure why but it is routed to primary battery and shielded with 150A breaker )
- What baterries should I use - Currently I have DieHard Platinum AGM.
Jorge
Pretty sure every one of your questions is answered in this thread... Start on page one. Photoman details the whole process.
-A
DominicanFZJ80
Getting there...
Posing a question as I had to give up on my install and back track to stock form. Is there some sort of secret to removing the pins from the original alternator connector? I've struggled with it for hours, even bought one of those Lisle tool sets for pin removal. Any tips? I hate electrical wiring!!!
- Thread starter
- #320
