Upgrading stock alternator to 130/150 amp (1 Viewer)

[BenMara]

alot of the higher rated amped alternators in stock housings run hot, packing more into a smaller package is what they do. Now if some one could adapt a GM alternator that would be nice, id go for a Powermaster ....

 

[Photoman]

FWIW the Sequoia and Tundra 130A and 150A alternator rigs use the 140A Fusible Link...which is the same size on our 100's. It defies logic to me but then again who am I to argue with the likes of the Toyota design engineers

I have never actually seen the fusible links on a Sequoia (or a 100 series) but the diagrams I have seen show they might use a different type than the 80 series cruiser? First picture is a drawing of the underhood fusible link box from a Sequoia. In the picture, #2 (ALT Fuse 140A) illustrates a bolt in fusible link; not the wire type that is used in the 80 cruiser. Other picture shows a box type bolt in fusible link. The 140 amp would be maroon in color.

 

[spressomon]

I have never actually seen the fusible links on a Sequoia (or a 100 series) but the diagrams I have seen show they might use a different type than the 80 series cruiser? First picture is a drawing of the underhood fusible link box from a Sequoia. In the picture, #2 (ALT Fuse 140A) illustrates a bolt in fusible link; not the wire type that is used in the 80 cruiser. Other picture shows a box type bolt in fusible link. The 140 amp would be maroon in color.

I've not seen them in person...just going by the EWD for the Sequoia/Tundra and the rating...

 

[azTony]

Is there any way I can get someone to take a picture of their stock alternator "B" Terminal connections showing the "little white wire"? Please provide year of vehicle for comparison. I do not want to post any false information and need this clarified before I make some posts. I appreciate your help.

 

[BenMara]

how do i give Photoman Itrader feedback if this thread is invalid WTH?

Sweet product by the way.....

 

[Volcano cruiser]

I never changed the bracket price so it is still the same from when the thread started. That price that mmm635 mentioned gets you the bracket and the Toyota electrical connector and shipping. The USPS shipping price is the only thing that has increased.
What you need then is either a Toyota part #27060-0F040 130 amp or a Toyota part# 27060-0F050 150 amp alternator. The 2003-2007 Toyota Tundra had up to the 130 amp. The Toyota Sequoia had a 130 amp or a 150 amp. In addition to take full advantage of the upgrade you need some larger wire to run from the alternator to battery positive and to run a larger ground from battery negative to the engine block. The positive wire should have a fuse in the line. So alternator, wire, fuse, and the time to do it.

Bill

Photoman,
I just want to make sure that the bracket that you sell only works to mount the 130 or 150 amp Tundra/Sequoia alternator to the 1FZ engine correct?
Thanks

 

[Photoman]

Photoman,
I just want to make sure that the bracket that you sell only works to mount the 130 or 150 amp Tundra/Sequoia alternator to the 1FZ engine correct?
Thanks

Yes that is correct.

 

[Count_Fred]

So I've got my alternator and a bracket on the way. I'm wondering if anyone knows what the "M" pin does on the 150A alternator. I know it is not used as far as the 80 is concerned, but I'd still like to know what it could do.

Also, does anyone know where to source high current fusible links? I'd prefer that to a fuse, and I think mine is both failing and going to be too small.

Thanks,
JFS III

 

[Photoman]

So I've got my alternator and a bracket on the way. I'm wondering if anyone knows what the "M" pin does on the 150A alternator. I know it is not used as far as the 80 is concerned, but I'd still like to know what it could do.

Also, does anyone know where to source high current fusible links? I'd prefer that to a fuse, and I think mine is both failing and going to be too small.

Thanks,
JFS III

As best that I can determine the 2003-2006 Tundra’s and Sequoia’s did not use the “M” pin. Their wiring diagrams show just the same 3 that the cruiser uses. (“Ig”, “S”, and “L”). All of course use the “B” terminal. The Sequoia kept this arrangement in 2007 the last year I have a diagram for. The Tundra started to use the “M” terminal in 2007 and continued to 2010. On those vehicles the “M” goes to the Engine Control Module. Interesting they drop using the “L” terminal. So they use “IG”,”S”,”M”.
Picture 1 is a 2007 Sequoia
Picture 2 is a 2007 Tundra

I decided to do a crude test video of a new stock fusible link at approximately 150 amps. It appears its failing is a function of amps over time. At 100 amps the wire started to get soft. At 150 amps it started to burn up starting at about 47 second mark in the video. In the video you can see the amps changing on the meter which I attribute to the resistence of the wire changing as it got hot. It also could be from the chinzy load tester I used. It should be noted that I had a 130 amp and a 150 amp alternator tested for total output. The 130 amp tested at 147 amps and the 150 amps at 166 amps iirc.

In post #202 of this thread I showed a 140 amp fusible link that can be purchased from places like O'Reilly auto parts and others. These are heavy duty fusible links, just in another form than the wire ones. Scroll down on this page to FLB fusible links. I don't know if a holder would have to be fabricated or whether one is available.

Bill

 

[NLXTACY]

DAMMIT!!!!!!!

So my alternator is about to die. Its only pumping ~12.4V. I was gathering all of my stuff yesterday and realized I never got my replacement for the bad 150A alternator I had. Called today to get the replacement and the company I got it from isnt even in business any longer. Where else are you all getting yours from?

 

[SF80]

Where else are you all getting yours from?

I got mine (and several other parts) from LKQ.

LKQ Corp. Recycled Auto Parts

 

[BenMara]

What do you think of this idea?

Instead of moding the stock Alternator wire just hook it up to battery and just run a 2awg lead to batt with a 150 amp fuse and 2awg ground...

???

 

[Aids10]

THX M8

There has been some questions as to how to do the wiring for this modification so I will post something here and some pictures, some of which will be redundant. I am not an electrical engineer so if I get something wrong please correct me.
Apologies to dial ups for the pictures.

The only wire that needs to be upgraded is the one that runs from the alternator to the positive post on the battery. If a person is running a single battery a new wire can just be run from the "B" post on the alternator through a fuse to the battery. The stock "B" terminal wire would still be connected to the alternator. Up by the battery is a plastic box marked AM1. Inside the box is a couple of large wires, one of which is the wire that comes from the stock alternator. This wire could be unbolted here or left connected as a parallel wire.
As far as wire size goes, it depends on the length of run of wire. As best I can determine with one battery in the stock location a number 4 wire should be the minimum. For dual batteries with longer runs something up to a 2/0 could be used. There are online charts for wire size and distance. Using a bigger wire size is almost always better.
Included is a picture of a some fuse connectors that would work. The holder takes fuses from 100 to 300 amp which are purchased separately. I understand the alternator should be fused at 20% over the capacity. Keep in mind the fusing is to protect the wires. So you can't put in a large fuse with a small wire or the wire will just burn up which is the thing we are trying to avoid.
More...

Bill

 

[dogcatch'n]

I am trying to find the plug that would allow me to use a 2007 tundra alternator in my 97 lx450, photoman had these, but cannot contact him..

Is there another source...?


thanks...

Photoman contacted me and said he does have brackets/connectors for shipping....

he can be reached at photomanfzj80@comcast.net

 

[Photoman]

You can get the connector from a Toyota dealer. It is part number 90980-11964.
I am sorry for not answering PM's. I got a new computer with Windows 7 and had to move up?? to a new email program and was not receiving notifications.

Bill

 

[loudsound]

I just installed Photoman's bracket in my 80 and the 150amp sequoia alternator rocks! Thanks again for a great product!

 

[monkd]

So i've got the alternator in, everything fits, no problems. Now I'm working on getting the electrical pieces together. I can't figure out how to get the wires our of the old connector without destroying the wire or the rubber grommet that holds them in. So I've got a couple questions after I've potentially screwed it all up:

- What is the best way to get the wires out of the connector? I found a reference to a snap on tool but, I can't find a pic of it.
- Are you supposed to reuse the grommets out of the original connector? If not what do you do?
- How far into the new connector do you push the wires

I've included a pic of my handy work in its current state! I looked for a post about this but, I can't find these details.

Thanks in advance,

monkd

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5173/5523425730_2c3a038d3e_z.jpg

 

[superjuice]

I dont exactly recall but i think those orange tabs need to be released. Then the retaining part slides out from the front/plug side. Again, it was awhile ago so i may be wrong

 

[monkd]

Thanks, I popped those out and it didn't help any.

monkd

 

[canman]

Typically there are tabs that lock the terminal in place. Some connectors may have a locking wedge that first has to be removed to allow you to see/ move the tabs. These locking wedges are usually coloured differently then the connector housing and can be seen from open end of the connector. To remove these locking wedges, I use a set of dental type picks to pull them out or a pair of small needle nose pliers.
If there is no locking wedge, you should be able to see a tab for each terminal. These tabs typically just need to be pushed away from the terminal to release it. To release the terminal I use a very small jewelers type screw driver to pry on the tab while gentley pulling on the terminal from the rear. Hope this helps.