Well,
Since that post was 2008, and it is now 2016, I would imagine that Toyota has discontinued the parts, if you cannot get them at a Toyota dealership.
Ultimate OEM 4X SERIES PARTS IN STOCK (5 Viewers)
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Well,
Since that post was 2008, and it is now 2016, I would imagine that Toyota has discontinued the parts, if you cannot get them at a Toyota dealership.
It appears the slave cylinder rebuilding kit (for a '77 stock FJ40) is still available. If so, it's about $20 list price from your local Toyota dealer. You can often get about 25% off or so shopping on line, but I'd imagine the shipping on the kit would be more than a 25% discount.
Many experienced 'Mudders recommend doing the master cylinder at the same time as the slave. A kit for the master also appears to be available for around $40.
Many experienced 'Mudders recommend doing the master cylinder at the same time as the slave. A kit for the master also appears to be available for around $40.
Thank you for this info, I will certainly check
I haven't tried to get the parts-yet-Well,
Since that post was 2008, and it is now 2016, I would imagine that Toyota has discontinued the parts, if you cannot get them at a Toyota dealership.
The question was about How to do the repair--That question is not time-bound
I guess you should have figured out that the thread "Ultimate OEM 4X SERIES PARTS IN STOCK" is not the place to be soliciting instructions on how to rebuild a slave cylinder.
Since this is a thread for finding out about parts still available, your first post, "I would love to get the slave repair kit, but I can't figure out how to do it??" would be correctly interpreted to mean "how do I get the slave repair kit". So, in response to your post, go to a dealer.
To avoid hijacking this thread any further, you should start a new thread seeking rebuilding advice. I'm certain you will be promptly directed to an FSM.
Since this is a thread for finding out about parts still available, your first post, "I would love to get the slave repair kit, but I can't figure out how to do it??" would be correctly interpreted to mean "how do I get the slave repair kit". So, in response to your post, go to a dealer.
To avoid hijacking this thread any further, you should start a new thread seeking rebuilding advice. I'm certain you will be promptly directed to an FSM.
Just saw this--sorry I will do what you suggest(BTW-my Toyota FSM has no rebuild data on this part-if I start a new thread, could you provide the FSM you are referring to)?
Awesome!!! Could you please post the name or the part and the part number? Im seeing several I need but Im not able to read the part numbers
Does any one knows the OEM part number for this part? It is kind of broken were the hook fits in. Thanks
Just got this today. Don't think plastics was the original bage material was it?
2fpower
SILVER Star
There does not appear to be a part number for it. It looks to come attached to the hood side panel.
Search for an "S-hook" fix. There was a murder who used an ordinary hardware store s-hook to create a reinforcing channel on the latch catch.
-Geoff
It is flat and right hand side?
2fpower
SILVER Star
Thanks. Sorry, that was actually a brain fart asking that question. I think they are all flat.... I actually need a "TOYOTA" rear emblem that is flat?
The rear TOYOTA emblem is still available got one from Toyota about a month ago.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Yeah, however, I am looking for a flat one to put on my 80. Not sure if they exist. Maybe made for a 55???
1973Guppie
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there is a guy that sells them , have one on my 80, search in the 80 section
In my search for replacement carburetor mounting studs, I came up with the part number 90116-08042:
This stud is the top one in the picture below. Note that the left end threads into the manifold. Also, the right end has about 5 mm of threads machined off. This projects up so that the nut for the right rear stud won't fit onto the stud unless it is slipped on while the carb is still off the base by a few mm.
The middle stud is an original one buffed clean, but with pitted threads.
The bottom one is also original, still loaded up with the aluminum threads out of my intake manifold.
This stud is the top one in the picture below. Note that the left end threads into the manifold. Also, the right end has about 5 mm of threads machined off. This projects up so that the nut for the right rear stud won't fit onto the stud unless it is slipped on while the carb is still off the base by a few mm.
The middle stud is an original one buffed clean, but with pitted threads.
The bottom one is also original, still loaded up with the aluminum threads out of my intake manifold.
Backup light switch for 3 speed transmission:
"Fan Belt Bar" attached to alternator to tighten fan belt (original 1973 F Engine in black):
"Fan Belt Bar" attached to alternator to tighten fan belt (original 1973 F Engine in black):
merbesfield
SILVER Star
I have a 1984 FJ40. How hard is it to install a factory 5 sd in my lare Modle FJ?
Depends on whether you can find the FJ40 specific 5 speed transmission too plate. With this top plate the shifter will come out in the factory 4 speed hole. If you use a FJ60 5 speed you will need a new hole for the shifter and will need to modify the shifter to clear. Your split case may need the outer cup to be tapped. You will need different length driveshafts.
Good news:
The transmission tunnel inspection cover should be tall enough to cover the 5 speed. The parking brake is already on the rear axle so no issues there.
Search mud there are some good writeup and options.
-Geoff
Good news:
The transmission tunnel inspection cover should be tall enough to cover the 5 speed. The parking brake is already on the rear axle so no issues there.
Search mud there are some good writeup and options.
-Geoff
The aforementioned top-plate will be very tough to find and probably cost as much as the transmission itself.
There's a simpler / cheaper solution. Install one of these tranny inspection covers and cut your own shifter holes:
There's a simpler / cheaper solution. Install one of these tranny inspection covers and cut your own shifter holes:
