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u-joint part numbers

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by semlin, May 5, 2003.

  1. semlin

    semlin rocker

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    Forgive my total ignorance on this subject. I am heading out with a local 4x4 club in two weeks on a long weekend camping trip to an area that is very remote. According to the guy organizing the trip, I should have “replacement u-joints” on board if I want to come along. I will hopefully have installed my CDL switch by then but, apparently, this is not good enough. What parts do I need to be able to fix the u-joints if I get a problem? P/Ns would be especially welcome.
     
  2. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Simon,
    You must be going on a trip with Heeps, they routinely break U-joints.  :D   Your Toyota dealer will be able to order you the U-joints. One piece of advice is to carefully mark the orientation of the U-joints before you remove one. There is a specific phasing of the joint and you will get vibrations if one is installed incorrectly.  IIRC, our 80 series is different from most other makes and is not the same as other Cruisers.

    As you correctly pointed out, using the CDL will allow you to keep moving with either the front or the rear drive shafts completely removed (not both though  :G)  You can even drive home in high range by removing the plug on the Xfer case or, preferably, doing the C-Dan CDL wiring mod when you install the CDL switch.

    You can break an axle on the front or the rear and keep going; ask them to try that in their j**p and your FF rear won't lose a wheel when/if a rear axle breaks.  It is VERY unlikely that you will break an axle or a U-joint.  We occassionally hear of 80 birfields breaking in extreme conditions (e.g. 35" tyres, crawling rocks, reversing with wheels turned.) Other breakage is usually a maintenance issue (e.g. Chris B's 2 in one weekend.)

    -B-
     
  3. moralien

    moralien

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    Beowulf is right. The dude is probably referring to the heeps outers… Instead of Birf’s J@*ps have u joints much like what is in your driveshafts. These are the weakest link in those inferior vehicles. Very prone to grenading at the most inopportune time. You should be ok with the (Toyota likes to refer to them as spider gears) u joints, unless they have been neglected severely. In which case you want to check them before you go out. It’s not really not something that is easy to do on the trail. It requires a deft touch, BFH, something really hard to hit it against, and a socket just larger than the cup you are trying to get out. It is really easy to see what I am talking about once you see what they look like. Just check your driveline before you go out and everything should be cool and the gang.
    Cheers…
     
  4. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    On the trail knocking them out is nothing more than beating it senseless. As far as installation get yourself a large steel c-clamp, about 8". Just a cheapy and use that as a small press and push the cups in.
     
  5. landtoy80

    landtoy80

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    Get extra u-joints. I want through a couple u-joints trying to get them in. I had to use a grinder once and a torch on the others to get them off. I then would get them in half way and they would jam. The hole for the cap was so tight the cap would push out metal shavings out the hole as I pushed them in. I ended up grinding the hole a tad to get the cap in. They went on so tight that you can't get them out if you need to without destroying them, like when a bearing gets crossed. I don't think they are suspose to go on that tight are they? They were Toyota u-joints.
    On one I had to grind down one of the C clips. With it unground the joint wouldn't turn freely. It was a day (make that 3) from Hedoubletoothpicks.
    kurt