Twisted Splines (1 Viewer)

[landtank]

it should.

Long before the shaft breaks the splines twist. The really bad twist is in the area between the collar and the spider gears. That is the area on the shaft that still has a hint of the splines showing.

If the shaft twists in this area there is absolutely no graceful way of removing the shaft even if it is broken unless the break is right up next to the locking collar where the stub won't interfere with removing the diff.

With the machined shaft if it was to break you should still be able to slide the stub section out through the collar and into the housing to be retrieved once the diff was removed.

 

[Delancy]

Got it.

Have two considerations for mine, specifically.

First, I've got the 1mm larger OE shafts, so a core swap won't be possible. Would have to source, send, and it be returned, then send the current back for the same treatment.......I think.

Second, the current has been cryo'd. Does that pose any issues with machining?

 

[landtank]

Got it.

Have two considerations for mine, specifically.

First, I've got the 1mm larger OE shafts, so a core swap won't be possible. Would have to source, send, and it be returned, then send the current back for the same treatment.......I think.

Second, the current has been cryo'd. Does that pose any issues with machining?

I'll have to talk with the machinist about being able to work with a cryo'd shaft.

I'm talking with him anyway about having the ability to ship directly to him for cases like these where a swap isn't wanted.

 

[jfz80]

thanks guys!

So with the indicator switch plate off I can physically move the shift fork back and forth with a screwdriver. After the rebuild it cycled fine and Last time it was apart after failing it was cycling fine back and forth in the air and then just quit locking with the tires in the air. It recieved power but would not slide fork over.... as if it were bound.
as shown here (photobucket vid fail...coming soon)
http://s79.beta.photobucket.com/user/jasonmfree/media/MVI_4917_zpsfaf9d7af.mp4.html



and axle came out rather easy. Did have to use the two bolts to push the flange off the hub and also had to tap the last 3/4'' in with a hammer to set flange and hub. Looks like they are slightly twisted and outside the collar. But evidently I got two problems. (no power and a twist)

one shows the twist better and the out of focus one shows where the collar has been riding, not all the way out on splines. Check out the third pic. Never noticed this before. hopefully just some machining marks where they were lathing down to diameter for grinding the splines. That or the axle is riding on something in the housing??? but only around half the axle.



However,now it seems im not getting power at all to the actuator. Still power to front fine but no budge nor sound from the rear actuator at all. this may need to move over to the actuator thread not to derail Akarilo's thread direction but I was wondering if multiple attempts to lock and even running a little front locker on the trail once or twice if the power sent to the bound motor could have burnt out the unit? Maybe even trying to fully unlock it worked and worked itself to death since it could never fully retract on the splines. Cant remember exactly but thought the signal was just momentary (timed) power but now i remember the contacts and arcs inside the actuator and am unsure.

hoping thats not the case

 

[Delancy]

Thanks, Rick.

Initially, intend to ship one larger OE shaft, unfrozen to swap the current cryo'd shaft, so either way, in once details have been determined and described.

 

[95ToyCruiser]

here is a pick of a production shaft after turning.

You'll see that the roots of the splines are still visible. The shaft has been turned enough to allow the collar to rotate on the shaft in that section but now the collar will be held in place better to aid in installing.

Is there anyway you could give some more into on the dimensions of where you turned down the spines, distance from the end? I have the rear shafts out and would like to machine them before I reinstall as I will be flogging the tar out of it and want to avoid this problem...

Shane

 

[landtank]

Jason, those splines are tweaked.

The way the actuators work is that they wind up a clock spring that then pushes the shift fork to the locked position. If the collar is frozen then the spring just sits there wound up. No damage comes from this.

Even though the shaft came out rather easily I think it's still binding on those splines.

 

[landtank]

Is there anyway you could give some more into on the dimensions of where you turned down the spines, distance from the end? I have the rear shafts out and would like to machine them before I reinstall as I will be flogging the tar out of it and want to avoid this problem...

Shane

Please understand that I have a lot of time and effort into working out the specs and am in agreement with AJIK concerning mods and products that I engineer.

The idea is by far the biggest component of designing a solution and you already have that for free.

 

[jfz80]

Jason, those splines are tweaked.

The way the actuators work is that they wind up a clock spring that then pushes the shift fork to the locked position. If the collar is frozen then the spring just sits there wound up. No damage comes from this.

Even though the shaft came out rather easily I think it's still binding on those splines.

Yep, definately tweaked. last 3/4'' was quite obvious.
Thanks for the reminder on the mechanics on the actuator, just been a year since i was in there and it was my first; I couldnt recall how the power was supplied. But either way I got a new issue of no power will be doing the battery test in the am.

For clarification for all the last inside 3/4'' that is twisted, and one of the portions that you remove is where the collar should ride in the unlocked position. Correct? If so then the pics showing wear pattern confirm its not seating all the way in.

Ill be seeing you/van shorty when you guys are ready
If i still have problems ill probably go open carrier and aussie but I'd rather not

 

[95ToyCruiser]

Please understand that I have a lot of time and effort into working out the specs and am in agreement with AJIK concerning mods and products that I engineer.

The idea is by far the biggest component of designing a solution and you already have that for free.

I understand 100%, just figured I'd ask... no harm in that... but a great idea non the less. . .

 

[landtank]

I understand 100%, just figured I'd ask... no harm in that... but a great idea non the less. . .

not at all and in the past I've been very open with what I've been doing.

You should understand that dropping one of these shafts into a lathe with a common bit in it and trying to turn down the splines will likely injure the lathe.

It takes special tooling to do this.

 

[Delancy]

you already have that for free.

Meh. This is the 80 section.

Profiting is not allowed and if cost more than $30 it's too friggin' high by double.

Bahahaha.

I commend you're endeavors and appreciate the inherent quality in design, and all transactions with Josh have been textbook.

Looking forward to sending y'all the money for this, so will Paypal the $15 for the machining service, once you send Paypal address, which is $10 more than it's worth.

Bahahaha.

 

[95ToyCruiser]

not at all and in the past I've been very open with what I've been doing.

You should understand that dropping one of these shafts into a lathe with a common bit in it and trying to turn down the splines will likely injure the lathe.

It takes special tooling to do this.

Forgive me for bugging you again... But I have access to a full machine shop (does everything from engine/head work to general fab) but they have a very large industrial lathe... Is there a reason for the special tooling?

Pardon my ignorance... Just want to turn it down sometime this week...

Thank you...

 

[landtank]

these are hardened shafts.

 

[Delancy]

Will a 1mm larger diameter shaft alter any of the tooling setup to leave the portion of the splines, as depicted, without any issues?

 

[landtank]

Will a 1mm larger diameter shaft alter any of the tooling setup to leave the portion of the splines, as depicted, without any issues?

I don't think so, the spline section still has to be the same otherwise it wouldn't fit.

EDIT: just got off the phone and this won't be a problem at all. He's worked with Croy'd parts before. I'll give Josh his address so we can ship directly to him to help save time.

For others, there is a second shaft available as I has two spares to start with.

 

[Delancy]

I'm planning on sending a new shaft, if I can get a reply from the Shaman, direct to wherever address needed.

Hope to have the machined shaft sent from your guy, direct to cryo.

Once I get it back and swapped, will send what I'm currently running for the same treatment.

See how long these last on 37s, or see how long 37 s last, one of the two.

 

[landtank]

it would be cheaper just to get the new shaft through me. I get the same discount as Dan provides and there would be no shipping.

 

[Delancy]

it would be cheaper just to get the new shaft through me. I get the same discount as Dan provides and there would be no shipping.

Get it on.

 

[landtank]

Get it on.

do you know if I need to know the new part number for the larger shaft or is that just what arrives now?