Twine On Board Shower Install

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Romer, Jun 1, 2008.

  1. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    9,456
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    I have been contremplating an onboard shower for some time. With our upcoming trip to the Rubicon, seemed like a good time to get it done.

    Two main components to the On-board shower, the Heat Exchanger and the pump.

    reffug was kind enough to sell me his Heat Exchanger after he IMPALED his truck. Course, now he has a another nice truck or I wouldn't have made that comment.

    Website: www.twine4wdshowers.com.au

    The Instructions to install the Twine Heat Exchanger are as follows:

    Overview
    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]The Heat Exchange Unit (HEU) should be installed between the vehicle engine and the cabin heater control valve. [/FONT]
    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Mounting the HEU with Outlet B on top will ensure maximum hot water flow through the HEU. [/FONT]
    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Mounting the motor section of the pump (silver part) uppermost will prevent any leaking water shorting out the motor. [/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial,Arial]CAUTION Allow vehicle to cool before beginning installation! [/FONT]
    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]You will require the following items: [/FONT]
    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Suitable lengths of ½" hose [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Clamps to secure ½" hose [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Heat Exchange Unit (HEU) mounting bracket – if standard bracket not sufficient (specific brackets available for some vehicles) [/FONT]
    Install HEU
    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]1. Identify cabin heating system supply line from engine. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]2. Secure Heat Exchange Unit (HEU) close to heater supply line using mounting bracket. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]3. Remove cabin heating system supply hose. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]4. Using suitable length of 5/8" Gates® heater hose and supplied Unicoils™ connect HEU Inlet A to engine port. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]5. Using another suitable length of 5/8" Gates® heater hose and supplied Unicoils™ connect HEU Outlet B to cabin heater on the firewall. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]6. Check that heater hoses are not crimped and do not rub on any part of engine. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]7. Bleed vehicle cooling system: [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Disconnect hose from HEU Outlet B [/FONT]


    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Set engine speed to 1,000rpm [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Stop engine when water runs from HEU [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]Re-Connect hose to HEU Outlet B [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]8. Top up vehicle’s engine coolant supply. [/FONT]
    Install Shower Pump
    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]1. Secure shower pump in an appopriate position in engine bay using pump plate supplied. [/FONT]


    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]2. Connect Inlet Assembly Male Snap Connector to inlet of shower pump using suitable length of ½" hose (not supplied). [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]3. Connect output of shower pump to HEU Cold Water Inlet. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]4. Connect the HEU Hot Water Outlet to Outlet Assembly Male Snap Connector. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]5. Screw Outlet Assembly Female Snap Connector to one end of shower hose. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]6. Wire up shower pump to battery using Electrical Kit – mount switch in an accessable but protected place. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]7. CUSTOMER to connect filter to Inlet Assembly Female Snap Connector using ordinary garden hose cut to length required. [/FONT]
    System Check
    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]1. Start engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. [/FONT]


    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]2. Set cabin heater control to maximum – for vehicles without constant flow heating systems. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]3. Set engine speed between 1,200 – 1,800rpm and hold (depending on engine). [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]4. Ensure cold water supply hose is placed in a suitable water source. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]5. Check shower rose shut-off valve is fully open. [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]6. Switch on shower pump. [/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial,Arial]CAUTION – SCALDING RISK Extremely hot water will flow from the shower rose after the initial water flow (allow 20 seconds of flow to clear). [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]7. If shower water is too hot, temperature can be adjusted by: [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]increasing shower rose flow [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]reducing cabin heater control [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]reducing engine speed [/FONT]

    [FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman][/FONT][FONT=Times New Roman,Times New Roman]reducing flow through the HEU – adding a tap (eg Repco HT58) between engine and HEU (A) [/FONT]
    [​IMG]


    Now for the Pump, I selected a Shurflo 2.8gpm. I know there are faster out there, but 2.8 gpm is a pretty good flow rate and some times I may be feeding this out of a bucket or 5 gallon can.

    I ordered a Shurflo model 2088-422-444. Lots of differnt models with a similar part number. This one has a higher psi, 45 vs 40.

    The specs are as follows:

    12VDC - 13.7VDC Max.
    7 Amps.
    2.8 Gallons per minute.
    45 PSI cut off switch (3.1 BAR).
    1/2" intake/outflow pipe thread connections.
    2-Year Warranty (see paperwork for details).
    Quiet performance.
    Self-priming.
    Easy installation.
    Runs dry without damage.
    Built-in check valve.
    Standard 1/2" Intake and Outflow pipe thread connections.

    My plan was to run 1/2" heater hose to the bumper and install Brass fittings. Not disconnects, just 1/2" fittings with caps.
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008
  2. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    9,456
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    First I laid a board across the engine bay to protect the radiator.

    The second picture shows I placed the Twine bracket on the firewall for a test fitting. You can see it will obstruct with the brake booster vacuum line.

    I loosened the bolts on the two brackets holding this line in place and was able to move the line forward without any crimping as both ends have hoses on it.

    You can see in the third picture how much I advanced it and ended cutting off the hose.

    Note: Keep the bracket removed from the firewall as I ended up using that as part of the setup for better fitment
    On Board Shower Install 002.JPG On Board Shower Install 001.JPG On Board Shower Install 006.JPG
  3. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    9,456
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    I then removed the hose on the passenger side of the Heater control valve. I did not drain any radiator fluid as it was up high and the spillage would be a minimum. (Don't forget to top off later)

    Basically, I just pulled the hose from the output of the heater control valve and the other end where it connects to a metal pipe that then goes to the heater. It was easy and simple to do. Note the Twine words are upside down as the input is on the left (not sure it matters)
    On Board Shower Install 003.JPG On Board Shower Install 004.JPG On Board Shower Install 008.JPG
  4. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    9,456
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    I then ran a 1/2" heater hose from the output of the Twine down to the bumper. Note that the install has the you install it with a cross flow. Meaning the water input is on the opposite side of the coolant input so the flows go in different directions.

    I drilled a hole in the ARB with progressively larger holes until the barb side of the brass fitting could go through. I installed it directly behind the outside bar as I figured that would be better protected.

    I also added some adhesive on the bottom of the brass fitting that mates to the bumper.

    Ran the hose down the battery tray and then up to the bottom of the bumper with a clamp on both ends

    Note the bras cap on top of the 1/2" fitting.

    I wanted a 1/2" fiiting because I thought this would be better with shower heads and hoses from RV shops.

    Note: In the first picture I slit a 1/2" hose down the middle and wrapped the Brake Booster metal line just to insulate it from the heat.
    On Board Shower Install 010.JPG On Board Shower Install 009.JPG On Board Shower Install 011.JPG
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008
  5. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    9,456
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    Now came my dilemma, where oh where to install the pump. Looked under the spare battery tray and could have done something there, but would not have had access to it.

    After a few step 6's and nice Cigar I decided to use the Pump externally.

    The following reasons made sense to me.
    1) It's tight in the engine bay already with all the stuff I got
    2) I would need to winterize this setup and without the pump, I can just hook CO2 into the input and blow air through the Twine to the output. The pump would not be a factor
    3) I can use the pump with my portable Zodi shower for use when I don't want to run the truck or we have another vehicle (Big plus here)
    So I decided to build a harness with battery clips.

    I also ran another 1/2" hose from the input (pass side) of the Twine down under the bumper and up to another 1/2" fiiting. I chose a 1/2" here because that is what the pump is. Had I installed the pump internally I likely would have gone 3/4" to fit a garden hose.

    I ended up putting a 3/4" to 1/2" adapter on the input of the pump so I could use a 50 ft hose.
    On Board Shower Install 013.JPG On Board Shower Install 012.JPG On Board Shower Install 014.JPG
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008
  6. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    9,456
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    Now to hook up a shower head on a 10 ft hose. I bought it at an RV store as they ones that shut on and off for water conservation (in case I am using a 5 gal can)

    I then warmed up the truck and tested it out using a half full bucket. Started out warm, so I cranked the heater up and the temp changed with the heater controls and got hot. I don't have the throttle cable installed yet and don't seem to need it for this to have hot water. The down side is the heater is on full blast heating up the cruiser.


    Awesome modification and should be nice on the Rubicon.
    On Board Shower Install 015.JPG
  7. Very slick! To keep the cabin from heating up, couldn't you just set the the temperature slide to heat and then not run the fan?

    As usual, great write-up.
  8. Very nice, useful mod at this point for me. Been wanting a shower for some time, this looks to be a clean way to do it. Also helpful that you show it on a car with supercharger. I would likely install the pump permanently.

    Wasn't sure if I could fit one underhood, nice to see it can be done! Thanks for the great pics too. Recommend this for the FAQ/Sticky.
  9. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    9,456
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    I didn't think of that. Probably would work fine that way. Thanks for the thought

    There is a thread already in the FAQ for on-board showers. I pasted a link to this thread there
  10. NLXTACY

    NLXTACY Mud Life Sentence SILVER Star

    Messages:
    12,130
    Location:
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    Any chance of just mounting the pump on the inside of the bumper?
  11. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    9,456
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    I thought of that and considered that along with below the aircan and second battery. jUst decided to go external per the reasons above. It will probably last longer that way too.
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2008

  12. NLXTACY

    NLXTACY Mud Life Sentence SILVER Star

    Messages:
    12,130
    Location:
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    No I totally get your reasons for doing it the way you did it. I was just wondering the pump is small enough to fit behind the bumper without an issue? I'm assuming it is by the looks of it.
  13. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    9,456
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    I do need to add an inline fuse to the pump harness. Didn't get a chance to get to one today.

    I would love to be able to find a 10 ft Shower hose. I had to buy two 5 ft's and use a coupler.

    Other than a garden hose filter, I would like to come up with a better filter set up like is on the Helton of Twine kits. Can't seem to find it by itself.


    Any one know of a source for the shower hose or the filter?
  14. NLXTACY

    NLXTACY Mud Life Sentence SILVER Star

    Messages:
    12,130
    Location:
    West Hills, CA
    Thought about just using your standard kitchen sink under mount filter?
  15. e9999

    e9999 You want to do what...? Moderator

    Messages:
    15,269
    Location:
    PRK
    nice job and nice write up!

    now to get a water tank on board, right...? :D or do you have one of those already too? :)
  16. F0RSAKEN

    F0RSAKEN

    Messages:
    236
    Is there any way to feed that shower from a live water source like a creek or a pond? You would of course need a pretty good filter, but unlimited water would be nice :)
  17. NLXTACY

    NLXTACY Mud Life Sentence SILVER Star

    Messages:
    12,130
    Location:
    West Hills, CA
    Yeah of course, all you need is a long enough garden hose. Years ago my uncle had something like this on his Suburban. He carried around a 5gal bucket with him for various reasons. For this he used it by submerging the whole bucket in the water source, usually a stream because he always camped by a stream. He would then use a pair of panty hose (they may have been thigh highs, I dunno I was young) and then he would drop the hose into the bucket. the bucket prevented stream muck from get inside and the panty hose would keep little - enough - particles/critters out as well.
  18. reffug

    reffug

    Messages:
    3,993
    Location:
    'in dat der briar patch'
    nicely done Ken...........

    looks just like it did in my rig.

    enjoy man.

    told you that thing gets hot.
  19. alia176

    alia176 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    8,493
    Location:
    Tijeras, NM
    Can you recall the make/model info on the shower head?

    Thanks.
  20. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

    Messages:
    9,456
    Location:
    Centennial, Colorado
    RV/Marine Showerhead - White - Camping World

    Still loking for a 10ft 1/2" fitting hose and a good filter for the other side

    On the river or lake item. Thats why I bought a 50 ft hose. I can dip it in the water at Rubicon Springs and shower till the spring is dry :D

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