Was the cel the only issue? Did it affect the idle? Or what was the reason the tps was replaced?
TPS/APPS problems (1 Viewer)
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Was the cel the only issue? Did it affect the idle? Or what was the reason the tps was replaced?
CEL only.
Started in Telluride a little over a year ago when we started the morning at -9f and I wemt into the "limp mode". CEL Just reappeared for the first time this Dec break (no limp mode this time). CEL Hasn't gone away since. Although driving performance is unchanged
It could be the apps... but we shall see
Beamed from my Galaxy 4 using IH8MUD to your computer screen
Started in Telluride a little over a year ago when we started the morning at -9f and I wemt into the "limp mode". CEL Just reappeared for the first time this Dec break (no limp mode this time). CEL Hasn't gone away since. Although driving performance is unchanged
It could be the apps... but we shall see
Beamed from my Galaxy 4 using IH8MUD to your computer screen
Anyone have this issue on 2006? Cel, Vsc off lights came on today. Idles smooth, only partial power in drive, can barely go 30 on flat ground. 06 is by wire only. No throttle cable.
can someone please explain to me what the TPS looks like and where its sits?
I have removed and cleaned my TB
I know what the APPS looks like on the pedal assembly
yes I see this is an old thread
thanks
I have removed and cleaned my TB
I know what the APPS looks like on the pedal assembly
yes I see this is an old thread
thanks
All, I had this same issue. I'm not mechanically inclined, but was trying to figure out what was going on with my 1999 Land Crusier. I found this forum and sent a link to the dealer who was trying to solve the problem. They were able to get the entire throttle body replaced by Toyota free of charge on the coat tails of that goofy accelerator recall Toyota had a few years back. Even though the recall had nothing to do with the LC, Toyota still was willing to pay for the whole thing.
I had code P0120 come up in March one time. I cleared it. Then in the last week, it returned about 5 times. I replaced the TPS with a Toyota Throttle Position Sensor bought from the dealer. Probably overpaid. It was $110. Once calibrated, the code is gone and having driven 200 miles or so.
A $25 wifi hotspot ELM 327 OBDII reader from Amazon and free version of DashCommand for iPhone / iPad allowed me to measure the throttle % to calibrate the sensor. I found it more successful to calibrate the zero position than idle. Zero position requires removing the intake to throttle body snorkel and pushing the throttle plate 100% closed. I set the TPS @ 12%, which is mid-way point between 10% and 14% called out in the FSM. I think normal ignition on position is supposed to be 16%. When I set that way, I still received an out-of-range code. Weird, but problem easily solved using the other calibration method.
What is also interesting is the engine seems more responsive. I'm guessing the old TPS was worn out in the normal operating range and maybe returned delayed responses to the engine control computer.
Thanks for the info here.
Doug
A $25 wifi hotspot ELM 327 OBDII reader from Amazon and free version of DashCommand for iPhone / iPad allowed me to measure the throttle % to calibrate the sensor. I found it more successful to calibrate the zero position than idle. Zero position requires removing the intake to throttle body snorkel and pushing the throttle plate 100% closed. I set the TPS @ 12%, which is mid-way point between 10% and 14% called out in the FSM. I think normal ignition on position is supposed to be 16%. When I set that way, I still received an out-of-range code. Weird, but problem easily solved using the other calibration method.
What is also interesting is the engine seems more responsive. I'm guessing the old TPS was worn out in the normal operating range and maybe returned delayed responses to the engine control computer.
Thanks for the info here.
Doug
Is the apps on the top left of the throttle body where the throttle cable connects? Can someone provided a photo and location of the apps? I have a 2000 and the dealer said my car does not have an apps however my car is throwing a code saying there is an issue. So I bought a tps and replaced it at first my car was bouncing idle so I turned it off and pulled the battery. Once I connected the battery and started the car it did not bounce rev however cel and vsc lights were still I was able to limp into the drive way. Please help
Changed my Throttle level sensor, code P1120, hopefully that fixes this issue.
Brought the family up to Mammoth Lakes for holiday weekend.
The LX did great til I start going up slight incline or steep incline.
The rpm won’t go over 2,000, not even if I push the O/D button.
No power going up the hills at all.
I replaced fuel filter in engine compartment. Cleaned sensor on air intake.
I’ve read it could be the fuel pump in engine.
I know it’s a pretty common issue wondering if anyone has figured it out.
TPS/APPS?
I have an 01 LX.
Thanks
The LX did great til I start going up slight incline or steep incline.
The rpm won’t go over 2,000, not even if I push the O/D button.
No power going up the hills at all.
I replaced fuel filter in engine compartment. Cleaned sensor on air intake.
I’ve read it could be the fuel pump in engine.
I know it’s a pretty common issue wondering if anyone has figured it out.
TPS/APPS?
I have an 01 LX.
Thanks
Good morning everyone !
I have the same problem on my LC100 2005. Toyota is not able to fix it and says it is better changing the car now..
Would you please have some picture of the broken wire? I checked as much as I could but... found nothing.
Mine is a phase 3, with fully electronic throttle controls....
Thank you so much for your help.
Nicolas
I have the same problem on my LC100 2005. Toyota is not able to fix it and says it is better changing the car now..
Would you please have some picture of the broken wire? I checked as much as I could but... found nothing.
Mine is a phase 3, with fully electronic throttle controls....
Thank you so much for your help.
Nicolas
The sensor that was bad on my LC was the connected to the throttle on passanger side. I ended up pulling g a throttle body with all sensors (a pain to tune sensors) off a 2001 Toyota tundra and installed on my LC. I have not had the code or sluggish throttle response in over a year since install.
Thank you so much for the promt reply Duran. That's very kind of you for the picture, tks ! The problem is mine has a fully automatic Throttle. No cable at all in this zone, and nothing which looks like it. I really don't know what to do... I continue my searches.
Hello everyone,
I had the P1222 code on my Toy HDJ100.
It was just a broken wire here (see picture).
Toyota dealer made me change many things before I found the solution on the forum.
Thank you so much for this forum !!!!!!
Nicolas
HDJ 100 , 410 000KM and still running very well !
I had the P1222 code on my Toy HDJ100.
It was just a broken wire here (see picture).
Toyota dealer made me change many things before I found the solution on the forum.
Thank you so much for this forum !!!!!!
Nicolas
HDJ 100 , 410 000KM and still running very well !
@DWSD, I know this thread is very long ago but I am having the same problem with my tps, bought a new one, set it at 16% pushing throttle plate 100% closed and still did not work.
Can you please tell me the other calibration method you used in setting the tps correctly, I can't move my car anywhere pls.
I searched the forum and still am trying to figure out how diagnose an APPS problem or a TPS problem on 01 LX470. No warning lights come on. Just when I push the accelerator to the floor (only happens when I do it quickly) like when getting on the interstate there is NO acceleration until I let off the gas and re-accelerate???
Trying to revive an old thread.
Could doing the TPS calibration wrong (with the APPS connected) cause a P1128 code and failure to start? It was reading 14.9 when I set it but it goes to 17.6 when I try to start it and doesn't go back. I adjusted it again (with APPS connected), it is now rotated to the max and still reading 14.9 before trying to start and 17.6 after.
Could doing the TPS calibration wrong (with the APPS connected) cause a P1128 code and failure to start? It was reading 14.9 when I set it but it goes to 17.6 when I try to start it and doesn't go back. I adjusted it again (with APPS connected), it is now rotated to the max and still reading 14.9 before trying to start and 17.6 after.
Bumping an old thread here. My LX is a 2000, and it seems like most of the issues are on 98-99 vehicles.
So looking in my service history, Previous owner had Lexus replaced the entire Throttle Body assembly at 154k miles due to a CEL / ATRAC lights and limp mode. I'm now at 232k.
This weekend was driving steep mountain roads and started noticing a "dead spot" in the first part of the throttle . Felt like I had to push a little bit further to climb hills, but not the "totally dead 75% of the throw" like some people get. No CEL all weekend. Idle was fine, but the car felt generally a bit underpowered.
This actually happened once last year and cleaning the MAF seemed to stop it.
This morning I was messing around with my Torque app and with the engine off if I floored it it would get to 80.2% open. I think closed was 16%. I also unplugged and re-plugged the APPS connector.
Then 2 hours later I go to start my car and I get a CEL with ATRAC and VSC lights. code P1120. Seems to be idling a little weird as well but it's also stone cold.
Wondering what you guys advise here. It seems strange to me that the APPS would go bad in 80k miles and I don't just want to throw parts at it.
I'm tempted to just clear the code or pull the EFI relay, but I also don't want this to bandaid it and get stranded out on a trail in limp mode.
do I just clean the TB and MAF?
do I buy a new APPS and assume it went bad in 80k miles?
Is there a chance I confused it with flooring the throttle with engine off and unplugging the sensor?
One last thing to note is that the clip is broken off on my APPS electrical connector, however it still sits on there very snug and has never backed off.
So looking in my service history, Previous owner had Lexus replaced the entire Throttle Body assembly at 154k miles due to a CEL / ATRAC lights and limp mode. I'm now at 232k.
This weekend was driving steep mountain roads and started noticing a "dead spot" in the first part of the throttle . Felt like I had to push a little bit further to climb hills, but not the "totally dead 75% of the throw" like some people get. No CEL all weekend. Idle was fine, but the car felt generally a bit underpowered.
This actually happened once last year and cleaning the MAF seemed to stop it.
This morning I was messing around with my Torque app and with the engine off if I floored it it would get to 80.2% open. I think closed was 16%. I also unplugged and re-plugged the APPS connector.
Then 2 hours later I go to start my car and I get a CEL with ATRAC and VSC lights. code P1120. Seems to be idling a little weird as well but it's also stone cold.
Wondering what you guys advise here. It seems strange to me that the APPS would go bad in 80k miles and I don't just want to throw parts at it.
I'm tempted to just clear the code or pull the EFI relay, but I also don't want this to bandaid it and get stranded out on a trail in limp mode.
do I just clean the TB and MAF?
do I buy a new APPS and assume it went bad in 80k miles?
Is there a chance I confused it with flooring the throttle with engine off and unplugging the sensor?
One last thing to note is that the clip is broken off on my APPS electrical connector, however it still sits on there very snug and has never backed off.
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Bump
I actually ordered a new APPS last night, so I'm hoping that fixes things. I'll also clean out the TB
I actually ordered a new APPS last night, so I'm hoping that fixes things. I'll also clean out the TB
