Toyuzu Fj60 (Rootbeer Diesel Build) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bluehawk
- Start date
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The spigot are a pain in the arse to get out. I clamped the housing and used a pipe wrench to twist and pull the last time I changed one. I used some sealer when the new one went in.
I see she marked her territory - stain in driveway
I see she marked her territory - stain in driveway
Dude, that is looking amazing, great job on the build! Did she squint when she got out in the sunlight?
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
- Thread starter
- #629
Got the brakes squared away. They are bled and it has a good pedal. Got the water pump pulled out and the straight spigot yanked out. Waiting on a gasket to put it back in. Got the snorkel on. The angle of the picture makes it look higher than it is.
More to come in the next few days. Working on the air filter to turbo duct work. Finish up the grill, front bumper, headlights, carpet, and ARB Compressor and switches.
More to come in the next few days. Working on the air filter to turbo duct work. Finish up the grill, front bumper, headlights, carpet, and ARB Compressor and switches.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
- Thread starter
- #630
Got the water pump all finished up, starter relay, and fluids all topped off. Went for a little test drive. Not good. Sounds like the transmission or something around the flywheel/clutch area is knocking or rattling around. Not exactly sure where it is coming from. Hope someone has some input. Don't know if the transmission is messed up or what.
I had a rattle at idle from the clutch area when I first ran mine. It went away when the clutch peddle was pushed in. It was not real loud, and did not get worse. But my transmission shifted fine.
After a year or so I pulled the engine and discovered the pilot bearing was bad. Turned out Advance Adapters had a bad run of needle bearing pilots. I replaced it with a oiled bronze bushing. Helped a lot, but still had a slight rattle. I took some advice to adjust the throw out bearing to just barely ride on the pressure plate fingers. This made the the sound stop, and no issues in nearly 40k miles.
On 4BDswaps, it was decided that extra flywheel weight helps these engines by smoothing out the power pulses of the 4. It was also discussed how these pulses made the transmissions rattle?
On my new engine, I'm using Diesel Adapters - Dustin, steel adapter that locates on the crank, unlike the IDA adapter that bolt to the Isuzu flywheel. This adapter also uses a huge ball bearing for the pilot shaft. My new set up will be 28 pounds heavier than my current set up.
Sorry I can't be more help on the noise.
After a year or so I pulled the engine and discovered the pilot bearing was bad. Turned out Advance Adapters had a bad run of needle bearing pilots. I replaced it with a oiled bronze bushing. Helped a lot, but still had a slight rattle. I took some advice to adjust the throw out bearing to just barely ride on the pressure plate fingers. This made the the sound stop, and no issues in nearly 40k miles.
On 4BDswaps, it was decided that extra flywheel weight helps these engines by smoothing out the power pulses of the 4. It was also discussed how these pulses made the transmissions rattle?
On my new engine, I'm using Diesel Adapters - Dustin, steel adapter that locates on the crank, unlike the IDA adapter that bolt to the Isuzu flywheel. This adapter also uses a huge ball bearing for the pilot shaft. My new set up will be 28 pounds heavier than my current set up.
Sorry I can't be more help on the noise.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
- Thread starter
- #632
Thanks Doug, no rattle at idle at all. It seems to only do it while moving. Went back out for another test drive just now. While coasting down the driveway in reverse, it made the rattling sound. Shifted into first and back up the driveway, same sound. Decided to go down the road again. At about 25-30 mph it has a bad shake. The steering wheel shakes, front end, and seems to even out going a little faster. Pulled back into the garage and up on the lift.
Checked to see if the drive shaft had any problems. Tried to turn the back tires and didn't move. I thought that maybe I left it in gear. Checked, not in gear. Really had to pull on the rear tires to get them to move. Tried to move the front tires, and same problem. Extremely hard to move. Checked the diff fluid in the front axle, it is right at the top of the fill hole.
Also when I backed down the driveway, I messed with the 4wd shifter. put it in 4lo and 4hi, would not go any where. Had to crawl under the truck to move the shift arm to get it into 2wd. Could this be the problem?
I'm using Dustin's adapter kit for the motor. Used his flywheel, stock clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate. Also using the Toyota Camry slave cylinder. It engages and disengages really good.
Maybe a front end alignment will help with the steering wheel and front end shaking. I'm at my wits end. Don't know what else to do. Its to the point that I'm just done with it and don't wont to work on it anymore.
Checked to see if the drive shaft had any problems. Tried to turn the back tires and didn't move. I thought that maybe I left it in gear. Checked, not in gear. Really had to pull on the rear tires to get them to move. Tried to move the front tires, and same problem. Extremely hard to move. Checked the diff fluid in the front axle, it is right at the top of the fill hole.
Also when I backed down the driveway, I messed with the 4wd shifter. put it in 4lo and 4hi, would not go any where. Had to crawl under the truck to move the shift arm to get it into 2wd. Could this be the problem?
I'm using Dustin's adapter kit for the motor. Used his flywheel, stock clutch, throw out bearing and pressure plate. Also using the Toyota Camry slave cylinder. It engages and disengages really good.
Maybe a front end alignment will help with the steering wheel and front end shaking. I'm at my wits end. Don't know what else to do. Its to the point that I'm just done with it and don't wont to work on it anymore.
Could be TC shifter issue. Did you take TC or shift linkage apart?
Are front hubs locked? Are drive shafts in phase? Ebrake problem?
You're close, maybe give it a break for a couple of days?
Are front hubs locked? Are drive shafts in phase? Ebrake problem?
You're close, maybe give it a break for a couple of days?
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
- Thread starter
- #634
Yes the TC shifter linkage was apart. When it was apart, the splined shaft fell way down in the housing. Had a hard time getting it back up and the arm back on it.
Front hubs are in the free position, and I do not have the front drive shaft in it yet.
There is no e-brake, the rear has been converted to disc brakes.
Master cylinder?!
Crack a bleader with a piece of hose on the end and see if it frees the wheels up.
Brakes binding would induce all kinds of bad driving characteristics.
Wheels/hubs hot after driving?
Congratulations BTW, you are close...
Crack a bleader with a piece of hose on the end and see if it frees the wheels up.
Brakes binding would induce all kinds of bad driving characteristics.
Wheels/hubs hot after driving?
Congratulations BTW, you are close...
Nothing wrong with taking a breather. I just recently took a breather from mine for a problem that took some time to figure out so I feel your frustration. At least yours looks fantastic sitting in the garage.
In adding to Pacer regarding the front shimmy: bolts loosen up (ubolts, steering bolts, spring bolts, TREs, etc)? tires got balanced? definitely an alignment if you haven't done that already.
In adding to Pacer regarding the front shimmy: bolts loosen up (ubolts, steering bolts, spring bolts, TREs, etc)? tires got balanced? definitely an alignment if you haven't done that already.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
- Thread starter
- #637
Pacer, I think the brakes are binding up. It hasn't been out of the garage for 3 years. They turned freely before the test drive. I didn't check the wheels or hubs afterwards.
Boots, taking a break this weekend and spending time at the lake. Back at it Monday refreshed and ready to go. Tires are balanced, steering bolts, u-bolts and TRE's are tight. Will be taking it for a front end alignment on Monday also. I'll post how it drives after that.
Thanks guys
I know pretty much everything is new on that thing, but did you do the leaf spring/shackle bushings? When I was running leafs I experienced almost exactly what you described and all of those bushings were destroyed. replaced them and it drove like new again.
You are soo close!
I recommend a power steering cooler if you don't have one already... The internal pump on the isuzu seems to heat transfer to the fluid quite well.
