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Tools needed to replace booster

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by CruisinGA, Jun 23, 2003.

  1. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    I am going to have to replace my brake booster 150 miles from my shop, 25 from the nearest paved road in the N. GA mountains. I need to know what tools are needed to do the job. I know its not real difficult, but I haven't seen my cruiser in over a week so my not quite photographic memory isn't doing the job. Specific sizes for wrenchs etc would be very welcome. Thanks.
     
  2. IDave

    IDave

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    10 mm tube wrench. 12 mm wrench. Needle nose pliers. Maybe a hammer if the clevis pin is stuck in there like mine was. You might get by without the tube wrench if you leave the MC suspended by its tubes, but they may work loose in the process or you may want to take the MC completely out of the way. Manual says to take them completely off.

    Something to catch brake fluid in.

    Brake fluid.
     
  3. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    By tube wrench you mean....?
    When I replaced my rear brake line I just used a 10mm open end wrench. I was hoping to let the MC hang by the brake lines so I don't have to bleed the brakes. We'll see. Thanks for the info. Looks like I might not have to replace it up there after all.
     
  4. IDave

    IDave

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    Ask the guys at Napa. You have to be careful with those tube nuts, they are brass and will round over easily. You can take a chance with the regular wrench, but if you round over you will be sorry! They are very hard to replace!
     
  5. theo

    theo

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    If all that is wrong is the booster is bad, you should be able to drive it out! It takes some muscle but the brakes do not depend on the booster to engage, only to reduce the pedal pressure needed.

    Is this the same adventure where you lost your clutch, or are you spreading disasters out over several trips?? :D
     
  6. cruiserman

    cruiserman

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    He means flare nut wrench. It's been a while since I've messed with a Toy booster, but you should be able to remove the master w/o opening up any of the lines. 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm wrenches plus needle nose pliers.

    Ditto to driving it home w/bad booster. It's not that bad.
     
  7. IDave

    IDave

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    Yah. Flare nut wrench. I think I did mine without removing the tubes, too, but the Toyota manual tells you to do it. &nbsp:Dunno why. Perhaps risk of bending/breaking tubes getting them out of the way.

    I couldn't find any 14 mm nuts on my booster/master setup. Maybe different for different years?
     
  8. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    I've had a bad booster ever since buying the truck. Recently got really bad, lots of loud hissing and rough idling unless brake pedal is depressed. I will be driving the cruiser 150 miles home at 60-65 mph, I don't want to burn a valve like bad boosters do. I might just go manual brakes if its not too bad, what would yall use to plug the hole on the manifold? I would have been able to replace the booster in the comfort of my garage if I had not sent the check for the rebuilt booster to the wrong guy and if I hadn't exploded my clutch. :-/ I'm driving to NC to get my cruiser from the farm where the clutch mishap happened and then driving it and hour to my cabin where I will solo wheel lightly for a long weekend, then drive 150 miles home for the LC club meeting. :D
     
  9. theo

    theo

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    You can cut the hose to the booster and thread a bolt into it. Add a hose clamp for peace of mind. You'll have Schwartzenegger thighs when you're through!