Todays wrenching (3 Viewers)

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I've got nothing exciting to report after the weekend. I did manage to get my brother's early 70's Kawaski moved off of the chain fall in my shop so I could do some maintenance on my 40.

Hang on to your pants!! I did an....oil change. And, added some oil to the t-case before a full drain and refill of those and the diffs.

Funny thing is, it took me 90 min. and a trip to a neighbor's house to get a better tool to get the oil filter off. A local shop installed this last one after I bought the truck, and DAMN, it was a PITA to get off. Tried the oil filter wrench, screwdriver trick, and only found success with a tool like this.

IMG_5493.JPG
 
Re-gear is complete on the FJCruiser. Drove it to work today and there were no problems. 4.88s may be on the high side since at 65 MPH, it is running 2500 RPM and the speedo is reading 74 MPH. Oh well, great for wheeling but terrible for highway and mileage. Good thing it is not a daily driver.
 
I've got nothing exciting to report after the weekend. I did manage to get my brother's early 70's Kawaski moved off of the chain fall in my shop so I could do some maintenance on my 40.

Hang on to your pants!! I did an....oil change. And, added some oil to the t-case before a full drain and refill of those and the diffs.

Funny thing is, it took me 90 min. and a trip to a neighbor's house to get a better tool to get the oil filter off. A local shop installed this last one after I bought the truck, and DAMN, it was a PITA to get off. Tried the oil filter wrench, screwdriver trick, and only found success with a tool like this.

View attachment 1286511
Thanks for the link, worthwhile looking tool to have. Something about oil filters that friggen gets me too often.
 
Re-gear is complete on the FJCruiser. Drove it to work today and there were no problems. 4.88s may be on the high side since at 65 MPH, it is running 2500 RPM and the speedo is reading 74 MPH. Oh well, great for wheeling but terrible for highway and mileage. Good thing it is not a daily driver.


The RPMs might be higher but your throttle input will be less. Regearing 80s doesn't really seem to effect MPGs. I install Yello Boxes to correct speedos. About a 100.00 and works real well. That will correct your shifts points also.
 
The RPMs might be higher but your throttle input will be less. Regearing 80s doesn't really seem to effect MPGs. I install Yello Boxes to correct speedos. About a 100.00 and works real well. That will correct your shifts points also.
Thanks Rick, that looks easy enough to install. I had heard of correction devices, but haven't researched them. This will have to wait until after my trip as I still have some other things to install before we go. I figure my ratio is about 1.13, so Yellr will work.
 
Hate those things!
 
Am I correct in assuming that if I have a faulty rear diff lock position switch that A: The rear Diff lock will not operate. And B: The front diff lock will not operate, as in normal operation you cannot lock the front unless the rear is locked?

The switch electrical connector broke off so I need a new position switch. Going to try that before removing/rebuilding lockers. Does anyone have a spare one or know what one runs new from Toyota?
 
Rick, where is the locker ECU located? the FSM is less than helpful...... no power to rear locker, via DVM....but front is working....
thanks!
 
need to replace my rear upper link bushings (on rusty adjustable Slee Upper links), and was curious if anyone has any +/- on the Metal Tech links,
Metal Tech FJ80 Series LC Rear Upper Links
seems like a pretty good deal to swap in rather than mess with paying someone to press out/in $100 or so of new bushings......
 
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need to replace my rear upper link bushings (on rusty adjustable Slee Upper links), and was curious if anyone has any +/- on the Metal Tech links,
Metal Tech FJ80 Series LC Rear Upper Links
seems like a pretty good deal to swap in rather than mess with paying someone to press out/in $100 or so of new bushings......

I have them. Uppers and lowers. They are beefy. I've only replaced rubber bushings on the lowers. Bushings with sleeves where under $20 for replacements.
 
Rick, where is the locker ECU located? the FSM is less than helpful...... no power to rear locker, via DVM....but front is working....
thanks!
sorry I missed this. The power only passes to the rear actuator motor after a solenoid in the locker ecu is picked via the actuator. I know this might seem jibberish, but unfortunately it's accurate.

Basically there are three contacts on the rotating assembly within the actuator. These three contacts control direction and limits for the motor movement. If there is a contact problem here then the motor will not move. Very common on these old actuators.
 

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