Timing chain tensioner (1 Viewer)

[OffGridOverland]

So when did toyota switch from a ratchet locking tensioner. To a oil only unit.
I pulled the valve cover and I can move the chain on both sides of the top sprocket.

I'm trying to track down a tap sound in my front cover.
All this stuff was replaced 10k ago.
motor 1fz runs strong good oil pressure.
Just have this tap.

 

[murf]

Not sure when the change happened.

Did you find out what the noise is?

 

[OffGridOverland]

I think it's the cam chain.

I pulled the belts off and ran it. Still there.
On start up its loud. Then gets less noisily after a few seconds. But it's a consistent tap when running.

I pulled the valve cover. I could take a long screw driver and move the timing chain 3mm on both side of the cam sprocket. Down by the guides. (All of this has 10k miles since new)
So I pulled the tensioner. And it had little oil in it. No pressure. And it just bounces in my hand.
I did find a thread. That pre 93 had that tensioner. And people would complain about a tap. And it was changed to the ratchet type in 94 to correct that problem.
As in start up. There is no tension on the chain. Unlike the ratchet locking one.

The motor runs perfect. No miss firing, good oil pressure. Plenty of power. It can climb out of the valley on the 17 at 80mph loaded.
So I really do not think it's a internal bearing spun.

I'm going to head up to toyota and talk to the parts guy I bought the tensioner from and see if things were ordered wrong or if toyota updated the part with this junk.

I might wait till I get a second hand. And use a piece of wood to tension the cam chain while it's running to see if the sound goes away. Or I might drill and tap this used one and install a bolt for manual adjustment and see how that works.

Everything else looks good.

My only other thought is the shop didn't tighten the chain guides down and one side is loose. But I don't think I can pull the front cover with the head still on.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Interesting but Im not finding or heard of the ratchet tensioner anywhere

My 96 and replacement tensioner 13540-66011 and stock tensioner is only spring loaded (no ratchet)

8/92 - 5/93 135-66010
6/93 - 12/97 13540-66011

 

[OffGridOverland]

This is what I had. Mines a 1997. But it was replaced with the non locking style.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I have the factory tensioner on my 96 and a NIB 13540-60-6011 no ratchet on either WTF

EDIT:
Part Number was superceded!
Quick Order
Old Part Number 13540-66010
New Part Number 1354066011
Part Name TENSIONER ASSY, CHAI
MSRP $30.20
Core $0.00

Online Price $21.78

 

[OffGridOverland]

already did that. But this came back from the shop I do not trust. And these where parts they didn't use and handed back to me.

Where did you find that part at. I'm tempted to buy it.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

already did that. But this came back from the shop I do not trust. And these where parts they didn't use and handed back to me.

Where did you find that part at. I'm tempted to buy it.

Looks like your was replaced prior to you owning it with the ratchet possible.

You have PM

 

[OffGridOverland]

So order both? Return one?
I've seen aftermarket reference of the ratchet type.
But for start up. It should cure the timing chain rattle. And should fix this issue I'm having.

Can one pull the front timing cover without pulling the head?
I have OEM headgasket with ARP studs.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

So order both? Return one?
I've seen aftermarket reference of the ratchet type.
But for start up. It should cure the timing chain rattle. And should fix this issue I'm having.

Can one pull the front timing cover without pulling the head?
I have OEM headgasket with ARP studs.

Cant order both because part number because it was superceded by Toyota

I put some feeler out to locate a ratchet tensioner. I dont think it will cure start rattle. After some research Im thinking start up rattle is one of two check valves.

 

[OffGridOverland]

I just found one. I'll have it in the morning.

So can I pull the front cover with the head on?
I might pull the check valves and look for any issues.

 

[Funner]

I just found one. I'll have it in the morning.

So can I pull the front cover with the head on?
I might pull the check valves and look for any issues.

According to Slee's website-
"Toyota calls for pulling the head and both oil pans to remove the front timing chain cover."

 

[murf]

tis true!

 

[OffGridOverland]

I thought about pulling the pan. I wonder if it would be enough to at that point to pull. Without yanking the head. I know the two bolts up top I'd have to remove.

Going to tackle this here shortly.

 

[medtro]

Yes, front cover can be removed without pulling the head.

 

[OffGridOverland]

I was to busy yesterday. But today.
I'm pulling the pan to check for bearing issues. Then pulling the timing cover to check the driverside guide. I'm thinking the two bolts. One came loose or dropped a bolt.

I did rock the crank back n fourth and heard no con rod slop. So I think it's a loose chain/guide issue.
But pulling the pan for OCD reasons.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

One came loose or dropped a bolt.
.

Is ▲this▲ confirmed?

 

[OffGridOverland]

I'm working on finding that out here in a bit.

 

[OffGridOverland]

So pulled the pan. All looks good. Before all that. I spun the motor over and found a lot more slack on both sides of the cam chain.
I'd say 85% the problem is in there.
I pulled the plugs. All looked great.

Now I've tried the starter trick. Only magic is a few broken tools. Then the 14 mm trick. Broke a few more. Once I get the pulley off. I'm sure to find the problem. You shouldn't have slack on the driverside timing chain with full oil pressure getting to the tensioner.
I think the bottom bolt fell out.

Anyways I'm headed to sears for warranty replacement. Then I'll have this off.

 

[Funner]

So pulled the pan. All looks good. Before all that. I spun the motor over and found a lot more slack on both sides of the cam chain.
I'd say 85% the problem is in there.
I pulled the plugs. All looked great.

Now I've tried the starter trick. Only magic is a few broken tools. Then the 14 mm trick. Broke a few more. Once I get the pulley off. I'm sure to find the problem. You shouldn't have slack on the driverside timing chain with full oil pressure getting to the tensioner.
I think the bottom bolt fell out.

Anyways I'm headed to sears for warranty replacement. Then I'll have this off.

I would make sure you are using impact sockets if your using the starter to remove the crankshaft bolt.