This really bugs me...slow electric windows !!! (1 Viewer)

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(MWOOD5 )







Hey, I'm normally parked over on the 60 group, but noticed the thread on the main page. I just went through the windows in my 89 that were slow as, well, you know...
Anyway, I ordered new rubber channels and they work like new. If you service the motors, meaning, put the proper grease where it should go and then replace the channels, you should be fine. I wouldn't think to replace the motors unless they quit working altogether.

The rubber in the channels just gets hard and clamps down on the windows. The new rubber, lets them flow as intended. It's about an hour job for all 4 windows in a 62 model. I'd imagine about the same in yours.
later,

mike

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later, ( READ AND DO )
 
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If you've got some time on your hands you can always just remove and clean the rails/rollers. then grease them and put them back in.
 
Like most I have this problem. In all the posts I always hear the problem described as intermittent. That is very vague in my book. This is what happens to mine.

When I am putting the windows DOWN - I have zero problems. The motor and window maintain constant speed and there are no signs/sounds of restraint.

When I am putting the windows UP - the window starts off quickly and the motor sounds just like it does on the way down, nice and strong. After 1/3 of the way up - the window starts to creep and the motor is working very hard. This is the process until the final couple inches from ending at the top. In the final couple inches the speed reaches 'normal' speed again.

This is where I am confused. I do not think this intermittent. It is an exact location where failure occurs. I have lubed the runs and cleaned the contacts. Neither have made a difference.
 
Like most I have this problem. In all the posts I always hear the problem described as intermittent. That is very vague in my book. This is what happens to mine.

When I am putting the windows DOWN - I have zero problems. The motor and window maintain constant speed and there are no signs/sounds of restraint.

When I am putting the windows UP - the window starts off quickly and the motor sounds just like it does on the way down, nice and strong. After 1/3 of the way up - the window starts to creep and the motor is working very hard. This is the process until the final couple inches from ending at the top. In the final couple inches the speed reaches 'normal' speed again.

This is where I am confused. I do not think this intermittent. It is an exact location where failure occurs. I have lubed the runs and cleaned the contacts. Neither have made a difference.

have you checked the rails/rollers?
 
YOU all need new glass run,s and all will be good

Not necessarily so...

I replaced all the rubbers and weather stripping on my 94, and my windows are still really slow. The motors and regulators need to be cleaned and regreased. The old grease will dry out and create resistance. Depending on what your time is worth, it might be cheaper to simply replace the motors and/or regulators vs. cleaning and regreasing them.
 
Voltage Drop

While I haven't measured any significant voltage drop per the ScanGauge II while running the windows (thinking maybe the ground cable or other wires were tired), I think the easy first steps are replacing window runs and lubing pivot points. The 'while-you're-in-there' philosophy works for looking at the motor while the panel/weather sheet is off, there's still something to be said for just fixing what needs fixing, and not breaking brittle 12-19 year old components.
 
I don't have the links but I was searching threads on running bigger charge and ground lines on my alternater a couple of weeks ago. Several guys ran a larger ground wire from the battery to the fuse box in the engine bay, then to the one in the dash, One of the side effects was faster windows even in the cold. I haven't been able to try it yet but will when the weather gets better.
 
probably bad brushes on the window motor and/or old wiring and/or the switches are all carbon-ed up.

The way that the windows are wired isn't that great. I installed 2 relays into the passenger side window and Wow! It is much faster. If you do the same for the DS, you'll have to lose the auto-down circuit, but it should yield results.

Search "relay electric window", I'm sure the thread is there somewhere
 
I have new master switch and rubber runners. Did not make a difference. Still slow.
Works fine in the summer, but very slow in the winter. That is with new rubber! Damn
 
I've just gone through all of this with my HDJ81

Ordered new rubber channels all around thanks to CDan, got some new replacement window motors made by Dorman, the OEM was too expensive.

The motors are available at autozone for ~$60 US dollars approx (could only get them in Canada for $100 unfortunate)

Dorman part numbers are 742-600 (front) and 742-601 (rear)

Hope that helps someone. Replacing the rubber is really the best fix, mine was hard as rock when we took it out.

Thanks CDan

Good luck all.
 
My experience

My experience:

After working on my driver’s side window, it’s better but still slow below freezing.

I did the following:

Replaced Glass Run
Replaced inner guide (Glass Channel Filler)
Replaced motor (Autozone Part Number: 742-601 $54.99; ordered on-line)
Cleaned switch contacts (Dang that lockout switch spring).
Lubricated mechanism with grease and glass run with 3M Teflon dry lube. (I use the 3M Teflon dry lube on my home's exterior door threshold rubber seals to reduce wear and drag).


I did not replace the Outer Weatherstrip, but will soon.

I removed the motor brushes and one was slightly damaged.
Replacing the brushes may be an alternative to replacing motors, if you can find some to fit. An electric rebuild shop could help.

My next step is to bypass the master UP switich with a relay and heavier wire to try to reduce the voltage drop.
 
have you checked the rails/rollers?

Yep - rails/rollers moved without restriction. I am thinking the glass run will be what I replace next. I do not think I have any regulator problems.

I think we need to start a pool. Person with the best/broadest solution gets all the money in the pool.
 
Windows are fixed!

Details in my 93 80 Beater thread.

D
 
I just bought my '91 fj80 and all four windows are very slow and need help going up and down. I called Landcruiser Specialties in Oregon city thinking I needed new motors and they recommended servicing the motors and cleaning the tracks. I'm sure they've seen this problem a lot so I took it as good news they didn't think the problem was new motors.
 
if you are in the door, take the motor out and open it up
you'll see two brushes in there that are about 1/4 square. Mine were worn down to nearly nothing.

A new motor is apparently about 55 bucks at autozone, that's the approach I'll be taking next time someone flies down (or I fly up)

if the brushes are very worn, then they may fail to make good contact. Mine rolls down 100% but up is a sloooooow affair and if it gets any moisture, it can stop completely.

ymmv

I have new master switch and rubber runners. Did not make a difference. Still slow.
Works fine in the summer, but very slow in the winter. That is with new rubber! Damn
 
Fellas, in the hope it helps you here, there are lots and lots of people already who either replaced or serviced their motors, replaced or serviced the wiring or the tracks or the switches or the fill-in-the-blank all without significant improvement. LandTank posted what the real culprit regularly is which is the "rivets" which hold the linkages together. I can't seem to find the thread that mentioned this fix for the windows but it was basically remove the interior panel, tap on the rivets to loosen them, clean all the tracks and switches and motors and button back up. Maybe Rick can link that thread but I'd bet ya that is the problem here especially if new motors and switches and wiring and stuff doesn't fix the problem. HTH. :cheers:
 
x2 with Treehugger: I replaced the rubber runs with new ones last season and it did make a big difference. The original runs were so stiff they wouldn't even allow the window to close without help in winter. It's not the motor, it's just the resistance that old, hard rubber runs put on the glass. You can lube them, but they still aren't pliable enough to let the glass pass thru easily. Call C-dan.
 
Take apart your window switches and clean them.

x2. do not tip upside down while taking apart, or lots of little parts fall out. An amazing amount of crap, dried grease, and other stuff that was hampering the contacts. drastic improvement.
 
x2 with Treehugger: I replaced the rubber runs with new ones last season and it did make a big difference. The original runs were so stiff they wouldn't even allow the window to close without help in winter. It's not the motor, it's just the resistance that old, hard rubber runs put on the glass. You can lube them, but they still aren't pliable enough to let the glass pass thru easily. Call C-dan.


X3 start there first. and remove and clean/relube regulator...then start replacing the really expensive stuff

:idea:I think we should start a window closing time thread. fastest closing window gets some kind of prize...I'm going out to time mine right now
 

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