This really bugs me...slow electric windows !!!

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by cme4lyt, Jan 12, 2010.

  1. cme4lyt

    cme4lyt SILVER Star

    Messages:
    502
    Location:
    Walnut Creek, CA Bay Area
    As I plan my major rebuild on my '93 and constantly add many more tasks to my list of 'things to do', the one item that really haunts me is trying to deal with the slow electric windows.

    Yes, my LC has 300K plus miles so what should I expect but is there anything else I can do besides buying new motors ?

    I've cleaned the window, the channels they run in, lubed the mechanism in the door, lubed the window channels with PAM, since I didn't want anything else to possible destroy the rubber, but nothing seems to work. They're a liitle better but not what I was hoping for.

    Do I simply need to bite the bullet give CDan some major coin for new motors ? What say you all ? i don't know why this bugs me so: maybe it's because I just cannot find an easy, simple, inexpensive DIY way around this problem.

    Thanx in advance !!!
  2. SiRaDuDe

    SiRaDuDe

    Messages:
    819
    Location:
    Puerto Rico
    Welcome to the CLUB... and I believe this to be a VERY large club...:smokin:
  3. d0ubledown

    d0ubledown

    Messages:
    1,930
    Location:
    vansterdam, BC
    apparently there was a posting here that showed some aftermarket window motors for cheap. those that use them have had good results.

    but yeah. my windows crawl too. luckily the my window is the fastest, and one of them gets skewed on the way up, so it doesnt track properly. i'll have to have a better look in the summer where oddly enough they perform better. i guess the rubber isnt all hard what not to slow down the window.
  4. cme4lyt

    cme4lyt SILVER Star

    Messages:
    502
    Location:
    Walnut Creek, CA Bay Area
    I hear you ! Let's come up with a 'club solution'. The brain power I've discovered on this forum is incredible and I'm sure there is a 'club' solution: maybe a group buy or something. This can't be that hard ?

    Thanx for letting me vent !!!
  5. azTony

    azTony SILVER Star

    Messages:
    4,237
    Location:
    Arizona
    I had a window hanging on my rear DS door and occasionally would come off the track. When I took the window out and looked at my FSM the measurement shown and what I had in mine was off by 1.5". I took the track off the window and seated it where it should be and the speed is much better. When I say much better I mean you do not hear it drag at any point and constant on the rise but like them all they are slow.
  6. greentruck

    greentruck

    Messages:
    3,513
    Location:
    flat earth Midwest
    I'm not sure PAM is your optimal solution. A clear silicone spray is what I've had very good luck with. It's persistent and doesn't tend to attract and hold dust.

    If you've been using PAM, it might be the case where removing and washing your runners to clean them up, then lubing them with the silicone could make a big difference.

    On the other hand, at 300k, your runners are probably so fragile that you're best off investing in replacement parts. This is the sort of things that is still available now. Who knows in 10 years?
  7. mwood5

    mwood5

    Messages:
    166
    Location:
    Dallas
    Hey, I'm normally parked over on the 60 group, but noticed the thread on the main page. I just went through the windows in my 89 that were slow as, well, you know...
    Anyway, I ordered new rubber channels and they work like new. If you service the motors, meaning, put the proper grease where it should go and then replace the channels, you should be fine. I wouldn't think to replace the motors unless they quit working altogether.

    The rubber in the channels just gets hard and clamps down on the windows. The new rubber, lets them flow as intended. It's about an hour job for all 4 windows in a 62 model. I'd imagine about the same in yours.
    later,

    mike
  8. greentruck

    greentruck

    Messages:
    3,513
    Location:
    flat earth Midwest
    Mike,
    I think you're probably right about new parts making a heck of a difference in window speed. I agree and definitely would not replace a working motor.

    darwink1 just got a bunch of new track, etc and is going to be taking pics of the project soon in this thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/292215-93-80-beater.html

    Tune in and check it out when it happens. He and his crew are working on things pretty regularly, so should be up in the near future. I've looked in the FSM and it doesn't look too complex. I'm sure there are some pics in one of the FAQs, etc also.
  9. SiRaDuDe

    SiRaDuDe

    Messages:
    819
    Location:
    Puerto Rico
    Anyone have any Part# and costs? /per door..
  10. zukinut

    zukinut

    Messages:
    506
    Im gonna take mine apart, clean them well and use pb blaster dry lube on them. The stuff is amazing. Its worked wonders on other trucks ive owned.

    Will
  11. lowtops

    lowtops

    Messages:
    343
    Location:
    Concord, NC
    My driver side window was slow and then it got to where it would pull out of the metal track holding it from the bottom.

    I pulled the door panel to lube the rubber window channel. I noticed that the part of the rubber window channel that is in the lower door had a smaller gap for the window to slide in than in the window frame part. This is due to the window being up most of the time.

    I took a razor knife and cut off a 1/4" slice of the rubber channel (the part that touches the inside of the window). This made a huge difference. The window actually works now. It's not super fast, but it's faster than it was before. It even works well in cold weather and has not pulled out of the track since I did this.

    This may not be your problem, but it's worth a look. Cheaper fix than window motors or rubber channels.

    HTH

  12. SiRaDuDe

    SiRaDuDe

    Messages:
    819
    Location:
    Puerto Rico
    Lets see if I'm getting this right...

    Are we talking about lubing the red areas and replacing the green areas in this pic?

    [​IMG]
  13. darwink1

    darwink1

    Messages:
    2,403
    Location:
    Sudbury Ontario Canada
    I paid 52$ each for the window runs and scored the whole regulator assemblies for both front doors for 90 shipped from a mudder. I think the plastic gear is stripped on my ds reg and these reg's are from a 97 so Im hoping they work better...

    I may be getting to this tomorrow if all goes as planned. If so Ill take a buttload of pics.

    D
  14. greentruck

    greentruck

    Messages:
    3,513
    Location:
    flat earth Midwest
    SiRaDuDe,
    The parts that should get the clear silicone spray are the glass runs, the part you have in green on your diagram. It's easy to lube these simply by rolling down the window and aiming the lube with the wand into the run.

    The lifts that are in red are only accessible if you take the door apart. You can apply white chassis grease type of lube to where the rollers move through the tracks and the pivot as they lift the glass up and down. We really haven't talked about lubing this area so far in this thread, except for the first post.
  15. dammitjim

    dammitjim

    Messages:
    130
    Location:
    Neenah, WI
    Take apart your window switches and clean them.
  16. cme4lyt

    cme4lyt SILVER Star

    Messages:
    502
    Location:
    Walnut Creek, CA Bay Area
    PAM you say ?

    Yeah, I know PAM sounds a little wierd but I was looking for something that would in no way degrade the rubber runners or make then deteriorate more: wasn't sure what is 100% safe ?

    The PAM works OK for a short while and then probably get washed off: need something that will 'bond' and hang in there for a while.

    I guess I might try a set of runners on one door and see what kind or improvement I get before I pull the trigger on more.

    Thanx for all the comments. You guys ROCK !
  17. cme4lyt

    cme4lyt SILVER Star

    Messages:
    502
    Location:
    Walnut Creek, CA Bay Area
    Yep, that's my next move ! I've lubed the RED areas but now we'll replace the green.

    Rgds..
  18. TwoTonic

    TwoTonic

    Messages:
    182
    Location:
    Idaho
    This seems like such a class problem-- all three of our FJ80s do this, especially in cold weather. Has anyone looking at differential voltage on the leads to the motor in operation? Is it an electrical voltage drop issue (corroded switches, high impedance somewhere?) or is it really just friction/'sticktion' in the mechanical system?

    Seems like so many of us have it that there ought to be a 'club solution' at hand. If no one's looked at the voltage drops I can pull a door panel in the next few days and get a measurement.

    Thanks,
    TwoTonic
  19. Glenn Bartlett

    Glenn Bartlett

    Messages:
    16
    I had a problem with my '93 drivers door window motor the other day, working slow and intermittent so I took the door apart to check the motor. It is quite straightforward and you dont need to totally dismantle the door if you are prepared to poke your hands into small spaces. If you are going to do it make sure that the window is fully down before you take the mechanical arms out. The motor assembly can be dismantled right down to the motor. I took the motor apart and found a s@#tload of water in it, like it was fully loaded with water, I'm amazed it worked at all. Pulled the brass winding out, cleaned and dried everything (with the wife's hair drier!!!), greased the end bearing and put it back and Voila. All works with no replacements needed. Took the opportunity to silicone lube the runners. Now it all works better than before and much more quickly. The motor itself it very basic and solid in its construction. providing its lubed and dry you shouldnt need to replace anything. Just clean it all up.
  20. treehugger

    treehugger

    Messages:
    217
    Location:
    Salem or
    YOU all need new glass run,s and all will be good

Share This Page