Theorycraft - V8 swap on an EXTREME Budget (1 Viewer)

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LS wiring can be done easily... A "four wire hookup". Only thing is you have one run the GM fuse blocks; something I'm finding is a blessing due to all the extra high quality fused circuits and relays I have to add accessories.

So basically you take a GM harness and cut the C100 plug only (this plug goes through the firewall originally). Then all start/run connections are made through it, and the back of the vacant connector on the fuse block. The GM harness remains completely intact and uncut otherwise... No unpining the computer etc.

I have had zero problems with this and it was simple enough.

I like the fact that I can keep all the Toyota wiring separate. Engine and any other aftermarket electronics are run through the fuse box.

Just my method of saving $1k on a harness.

Check lt1swap.com for the write up under "truck fuse box"
 
A favorite saying of my grandmother was "I can not fathom how people have the time and money to do something over yet do not have the time and money to do it right the first time." Short cuts in the swap process usually equate to repairs in the future, which means more time and money. Buy quality equipment the first time. If it takes another year too save up the difference, so be it.

As someone who calls myself a project manager and analyst by trade and nature I completely agree. You can't believe the amount of government projects that are conducted (and sometimes completed) on a half-assed scale and then redone years later simply because someone did not want to take the time. I have spent the last two years with my agency trying to clean up the fires they started in the way and implementing a clear and concise way of delivering a project that will be not only successful but also capture the results the customer wants.

With all the discussion that is going on, this is great! I didn't necessarily want this to be a thread where we were doing a direct comparison of a TBI system vs. Vortec system, rather it would be a discussion starter with some detailed out thought processes regarding how to go about discovering which would be the best bet for you. All while doing this on a slim budget. As guys like @doug720 has stated/showed, just because someone has an extreme budget does not necessarily mean that they cannot build a superb quality item. Rather there is TONS of forethought that needs to go into the project and the justification that one powerplant vs. another will fit their needs.

Essentially, for my build I do not need something that will be able to tow another vehicle. At most down the road it may need to tow a small <18' trailer but that would be in the distant future and really that was the purpose of the wife and I buying our 2011 4Runner that has a large towing capacity. What I wanted out of this build was a couple things:
- Driveability -> What that means to everyone is a little different. For me that is going to be a few things that I am still debating on but better gas mileage while having better power is main thing. (I know I know, don't chase the gas mileage rabbit) The ability to "easily" pull the hills with some authority around here would be awesome. With the family recently acquiring a cabin up at the lake (we are at 4500' cabin is at almost 7k') I would like her not to be a complete dog on the way up the hill AND be able to access my fishing spot!
- Starting Efficiency -> No matter what I do with my particular truck I have always had some sort of starting issue. Be it having to pump the gas constantly in the morning, or after a hot day and sit in a parking lot for an extra couple of minutes to start the engine. Yes I can chase the rabbit and see what is going on, and had actually started doing that when I came across my recent findings with the smoke and metal in the oil. I would really like the ability, regardless of the truck having just been running or that it hasn't been turned on in a week, to go out and turn the key and have it start within the first few kicks.
- Budget -> I want/need to keep this build/swap as cheap as I possibly can. No I am not going to go above and beyond to find the cheapest alternatives that I possibly can but in the same respect I do have a budget and if I am going to spend the upwards of $10k then I need to do the cost benefit analysis of doing it myself vs. having a professional do it. For me, their are other priorities that have money tied to them so this will be spread out as much as possible while I do the information gathering and planning. If the truck is down for a length of time it will not be a huge issue (hell I went without a vehicle for a year before I bought BeBe), but then again I want to ensure that it is not a perpetual project (or at least the wife doesn't want it to be, BeBe will always be a perpetual project to me!!!)

So hopefully that clarifies my thoughts a bit. Just like any project there is a process, methodology and time where requirements are gathered, discussed, prioritized and then a budget it given. For me the timeframe is the one requirement that I do not have simply because there is no "super" rush to getting this done. I could/can keep dumping money into BeBe in her current state to keep thing kosher and allow for the longevity of the engine but with the current situation it is better to start this planning now and get things handled in a fairly quick manner.
 
Great thread!!!

I was initially holding onto my first post to start my build thread, but I could not resist. I am in the heat of a 5.3L swap on my 83 FJ60 and have pulled a tremendous amount of information from the other build threads around here. The amount of information that is on this site is amazing and there is very little that others haven't tried, although I am trying to put my own twist on a few things along the way.

I agree on two major points from this thread from previous experience. I have built or been involved in quite a few jeep projects including power and drive train swaps and my first career was as an automotive technician.

1) Do it right the first time (cutting this corner can result in more cost or just more labor, but if you can fix what needs it while you are there)
2) This is an expensive project

The big ticket items really hurt, but those can be adequately budgeted on the front end of the project. It is all the little things that add up over time to drive the cost through the roof (these things can be hard to budget). Things that aren't necessary but are nice touches like painting the frame and engine compartment while you are there can also add up quickly.

I also think that time frame is one of the most underestimated aspects of these projects.

I am working with a tight budget and and tracking every penny and I expect to come out under $6K for the swap. I am also trying my best to separate maintenance, wear items from the swap total a I am doing a lot of things while I have it torn down. I plan to detail all of this in my build thread to show exactly what it cost me to do the swap., but I will be watching this thread to see where the experts lean.

The newbie in me wants to know before I do it and I don't mind sharing...Is it OK to list itemized costs for such a project on this forum?
 
ABSOLUTELY!!! Definitely share your costs but also share where you are located. I know that some people hate to do that but really it does help. As I said in another posting, costs can be very much based on the region/area that one is doing the swap in. This can then turn into differing of costs and what was done to get those items, sure a guy who buys a 5.3L with 40K on it is going to spend more than someone with a 5.3L that has 100k on it but there could be a HUGE difference in cost by region and if shipping is involved.

So here is something that I didn't think of throwing in the mix.... what about for a cheap(er) Vortec swap someone use the 4.8L instead of the 5.3L?
 
Sounds good. I will reiterate that I plan to fully detail in a separate thread but the most exhuberant costs are obviously the engine and transmission. I am in Huntsville and scoured craigslist and junkyards for a month before finding a 2wd 2004 Tahoe (L59) with 140k that was t-boned. I was able to hear it run and engage the transmission (not drive it). It had a full life worth of service records in the glovebox and an up to date oil change sticker on the windshield. Transmission was serviced roughly every 30k. Checked all fluids, pulled a plug and tested compression for completeness. It was a little sleepy, but I have completely resealed the engine now. I asked for everything that connected to the engine including fuel lines to the tank, trans cooler lines, ac lines, ps lines, pcm, harness, breather box, battery cables, etc. I paid 2k cash loaded onto my truck.

Add the AA adapter and that is 2818.00 spent for a bunch of parts that still won't fit. Here comes a can of worms...

I should mention that I weighed the cost of swapping the tcase and rear axle to something more common. BUT I only plan to go 33" tires as this will be my DD / family camper. No offense but if I want something HARD CORE, I will get another jeep to chop and drop ton axkes into. Probably for less than this v8 swap is costing.

I will start a thread soon. Only the title is holding me back ,)
 
I am BY FAR no expert on this... I'm just in the "asking questions" stage myself... BUT I was told that a good route to go is to buy a good running Buick Roadmaster... use the LT v8, keep the transmission and get the "cheap" AA adapter to the cruiser TC... Does this sound like a decent option?
The Buicks are generally grandpa cars, not beat to snot Camaros etc... often dealer maintained.


There are two different versions of 5.7 for the most part...an LT as you noted and a TBI. The problem with the LT engine is that it has one of those crazy distributors type setups on the front of the crank....which is prone to water damage issues. The GM caprice is the same basic car and and shares the same drivetrain options, so parts are not unique to the roadmaster. TO be clear on the v8 option you could get the LT1 or the TBI 5.7. you can figure out which is which by looking at the 8th digit on the VIN for the corresponding engine code. TBI engine is easy to spot and probably the most common...I think one of the engine codes in that year range was "P"... check it out... Probably could buy the entire car for much of nothing....I was looking for the same thing at one time but going on the TBI. I believe there is some type of aftermarket or change to the LT1 distributor setup that's an improvement and less prone to water issues...FYI. Deep water crossings are not good when your ign goes scuba diving.
 
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I don't see you factoring in labor costs in your budget. Are you planning on doing this all yourself? I don't mean to poo poo your skills, but that's a huge part of the budget that you need to address. Most, if not all of the successful low budget builds have been done by DIA guys.
 
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Sounds good. I will reiterate that I plan to fully detail in a separate thread but the most exhuberant costs are obviously the engine and transmission. I am in Huntsville and scoured craigslist and junkyards for a month before finding a 2wd 2004 Tahoe (L59) with 140k that was t-boned. I was able to hear it run and engage the transmission (not drive it). It had a full life worth of service records in the glovebox and an up to date oil change sticker on the windshield. Transmission was serviced roughly every 30k. Checked all fluids, pulled a plug and tested compression for completeness. It was a little sleepy, but I have completely resealed the engine now. I asked for everything that connected to the engine including fuel lines to the tank, trans cooler lines, ac lines, ps lines, pcm, harness, breather box, battery cables, etc. I paid 2k cash loaded onto my truck.

Add the AA adapter and that is 2818.00 spent for a bunch of parts that still won't fit. Here comes a can of worms...

I should mention that I weighed the cost of swapping the tcase and rear axle to something more common. BUT I only plan to go 33" tires as this will be my DD / family camper. No offense but if I want something HARD CORE, I will get another jeep to chop and drop ton axkes into. Probably for less than this v8 swap is costing.

I will start a thread soon. Only the title is holding me back ,)

I did almost the exact same thing. Found a '03 Tahoe that had been rolled, and was able to inspect it before making the purchase. It had 170k on the odometer, but the interior was in great shape, brand new shocks and tires, new oil filter, clean oil. .Pretty obvious that it was well cared for. Looked like a grocery getter, soccer mom car. If you have the time, it pays to take your time to find the right donor. Hey, it had to be running pretty damn good for someone to flip it on its lid:eek:
 
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@daytondogie Yes this thread is based on the premise that the swapper will have the available skills (be it through themselves, family or friends will to help) to complete the majority. Sure there are those items like drive lines that are very specialized and will require certain extended costs. But for the most part this will be done by the swapper.
 
Oh and to further my point about regional value. I am in Northern NV, going as far as the Bay Area (San Francisco area) will net me a completely different cost on a salvage engine. I looked on SCADA, which is the state salvage site and you can check inventory throughout the state. Where a 5.3L vortec will cost me about $1700 here I can go into California and get the same engine with less miles for $700-$800.
 
Gregnash,
thanks for the thread. I recently brought my stranded and head gasket-less beauty home from Battle Mountain, NV. I've been lulling myself to sleep every night thinking about what I should do...rebuild 2f, get a used 2f, swap for a 350 & Ranger unit....ugh. Still don't have an answer but your discussion is zeroed in on everything I'm trying to figure out.
 
@Jesper no problem dude. Hopefully you are getting some good info from this. Unfortunately research has been halted while I am in Co helping family prep for incoming twins.

One of the main variables that you need to think about is what you will ultimately do with your truck, then build accordingly from there.
 
@Jesper no problem dude. Hopefully you are getting some good info from this. Unfortunately research has been halted while I am in Co helping family prep for incoming twins.

One of the main variables that you need to think about is what you will ultimately do with your truck, then build accordingly from there.

Agreed 100% @gregnash. I was about to sell mine due to the inability to accomplish the things I needed with a DD. Then I changed direction and jumped off the V8 swap cliff and plan to never look back. My 60 will be what I want it to be when I am finished and it will mostly be due to the V8 swap. Looking forward to what happens when I press the skinny pedal.

As for regional pricing, I agree. I looked over a three state area. Metro areas (Atlanta, Birmingham, Nashville) carried the highest prices generally. Although I did miss one in bham...Getting out of the metro areas brought prices down by at least $500 for an engine transmission combo. Sometimes more.

Another viable option is to look for a complete vehicle, I found a few things that were tempting in the 'running and driving' category.
 
For a budget v8 swap you CANNOT go wrong with a 5.7 tbi. I did mine for 1,500. I live in in California so I had to include all smog components. Power is great, it's would you would expect out of a 60. Completely bone stock engine. Got a junk yard harness and ECM. Parts are cheap and readily available. I also bought a Chevy pickup schematic book with everything in it which helped greatly(10 bucks off eBay). For what it cost and the difficulty of the project, I am very happy I went through with it. Taking my time, weekends and a few hours during the week, I did my engine swap and SOA done about 9 months. Could have been done quicker, but I have a busy work schedule and a family. What also saved is going with Chevy trans and t case vs. adapter costs. Check out my thread.
 
Sorry guys, have been gone since last Wednesday to Colorado helping family prep for a set of incoming twins. Lots of work to do at their house getting last things buttoned up so haven't had any time to compile anything. Promise to get back at it this week.

Question for everyone.... do we to compile some information with regards to the 4.8L vs. 5.3L Vortec (Gen II and up)?? For me, the truck will not really be a towing truck. Most it will probably seeing for towing would be a small 18' hardside travel trailer, like a Casita or Jayco, but that would be max. Haven't done any research on pricing difference but probably about the same I am assuming. Also, from what I am seeing on the Vortec it seems like in 2004+ they went from a cable actuated throttle plate to something else, anyone know anything about this? Also seems like a small bump in hp/tq in that time frame as well.
 
And they are less prone to thecold start infamous piston slap due to a change in the ring material?
 
I would prefer a 5.3 over a 4.8...that's just my view. You probably can buy a 4.8 cheaper, but that may be relative to the location and what's available. I would look to buy a 5.3 with matching transmission (attached) as a single unit pulled from a salvage yard vehicle or parts truck. There are many years of pickups and suvs running the 5.3 with auto transmission, probably the better price point getting both at the same time.
 

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