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The Riggs Dream Machine (1 Viewer)
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Lately I've been working on wiring for a central locking system, a new stereo system all run through an auxiliary fuse block from Painless that will eventually run fog lights too. I've got the rear shoulder harness working mechanically, I just need to fit the interior 62 plastic pieces to the 60 cargo panel.
Last week was like Christmas, I got a delivery from @beno for A-Pillar grab handles with rear sway bar parts and a call from the powder coating guy. I spent more time than any sane person would agonizing over finding a tan powder coat that matched the interior dash metal (which seems darker than the desert beige that is on the exterior) and settled on Magnum Beige PSB 4953 from Prismatic Colors. I recovered the armrest pad with brown vinyl from Joanns to turn a Tuffy center console into one that almost looks stock compared to the front dash.
The old beast of a receiver hitch and the discontinued parts for a rear sway bar from a 62 were also powder coated.
When I went to work on the sway bar I realized that I had forgot two important parts - the linkages from the frame mounts to the bar. I emailed @beno and he said that he anticipated the error and had the parts ready to ship - he is awesome to work with. On top of that, he emails me back to say that my order for the sway bar linkages that I overlooked are his 1000 order and he is giving away $100 in free parts to his 1000th order. I am in disbelief but my previous two orders were 0916 and 0943, my goof of not ordering the links got me $100 in Toyota parts which just added more to the Christmas feeling, thanks to beno and ih8mud!
Last week was like Christmas, I got a delivery from @beno for A-Pillar grab handles with rear sway bar parts and a call from the powder coating guy. I spent more time than any sane person would agonizing over finding a tan powder coat that matched the interior dash metal (which seems darker than the desert beige that is on the exterior) and settled on Magnum Beige PSB 4953 from Prismatic Colors. I recovered the armrest pad with brown vinyl from Joanns to turn a Tuffy center console into one that almost looks stock compared to the front dash.
The old beast of a receiver hitch and the discontinued parts for a rear sway bar from a 62 were also powder coated.
When I went to work on the sway bar I realized that I had forgot two important parts - the linkages from the frame mounts to the bar. I emailed @beno and he said that he anticipated the error and had the parts ready to ship - he is awesome to work with. On top of that, he emails me back to say that my order for the sway bar linkages that I overlooked are his 1000 order and he is giving away $100 in free parts to his 1000th order. I am in disbelief but my previous two orders were 0916 and 0943, my goof of not ordering the links got me $100 in Toyota parts which just added more to the Christmas feeling, thanks to beno and ih8mud!
Leave that lift alone! Get a compressor and airdown to get in the garage. I've done this to get a crane into a football stadium. I keep a fold up foot stool under the pass seat for my wife and my 2.5 year old to get in. Fits perfect under there. And go get some 33's already. Nice rig. Welcome to your new addiction.
Quick question...What rear seat belts are you using?..Seatbelt Planet? Also, where did you find the mounting bracket for the seatbelt unit? I am doing the same right now and cannot find these units as well as the outer trim piece to cover once it is installed...Thanks!
Also, did you end up putting in your Compass/Altimeter from the 80?? If so, would love to see what you did!
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- #50
@LittleRedWgon The rear seat belts are from an FJ62, I ordered the upgrade kit from cruiserparts.net because it comes with the interior trim pieces also which you will need for it to look correct with the shoulder belts. The mounting bracket for inside the B pillar I got here, scroll halfway down the page. Call cruiserparts.net and they should be able to help.
As for the Compass/Altimeter, that is going to be my Crown Jewel, my Keystone...It is going to come after I finish all the other little projects I've got going, for two reasons:
1. I know it will be very difficult, almost ten years ago @cruiserdan said he wouldn't do it again and that was on an 80 that it was made for. I have the factory wiring harness though, so maybe it won't be as bad. I love a challenge almost as much as I love factory options/gadgets.
2. Both of the previous owners put a feather in the rear view mirror retainer at some point while they owned this Cruiser. I asked @nplasson when I was buying the LC from him if he wanted his feathers and he said no, they belonged to the Cruiser. One is from the first owner and the other was his, I don't remember which. I try not to be superstitious, but I also don't want to go against the guys before me that kept this Cruiser in great shape. So for now I am leaving them where they are, I don't want any bad Ju-Ju.
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- Thread starter
- #51
Do FJ62s have power locks on the rear hatch? I'm wiring my 60 for a central locking system and I am wondering if it is possible to do it for the back hatch.
Since my last post I have re-keyed the back hatch to match all the other locks on the LC, purchased two factory keys from @beno using just my VIN and it is awesome to have a factory key that works on everything like it was new. I finished restoring and repainting the plastic middle bezel and the Aus glove box grab handle. I spent more time than any man should on sewing, but I think I got it right. I just received LED lights for the interior instruments thanks to most of the info from @klinetime574 and others on this thread. Still working slowly but surely on a central locking system, I have the passenger side done so far. Then I will be focusing on the sound system and wiring from the Tuffy center console.
BTW the addition of a rear sway bar from an FJ62 to your 60 is worth it for handling, it made a noticeable difference.
Since my last post I have re-keyed the back hatch to match all the other locks on the LC, purchased two factory keys from @beno using just my VIN and it is awesome to have a factory key that works on everything like it was new. I finished restoring and repainting the plastic middle bezel and the Aus glove box grab handle. I spent more time than any man should on sewing, but I think I got it right. I just received LED lights for the interior instruments thanks to most of the info from @klinetime574 and others on this thread. Still working slowly but surely on a central locking system, I have the passenger side done so far. Then I will be focusing on the sound system and wiring from the Tuffy center console.
BTW the addition of a rear sway bar from an FJ62 to your 60 is worth it for handling, it made a noticeable difference.
Thanks! Looking forward to seeing more!
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Yes, the rear hatch and tailgate both have electric locks. Pretty convenient if they work.
Good stuff going on here! I really like where you're going with your truck.
Really curious to see how you tackle the electric door locks. Please post up the details.
Cheers,
-Ed
Small world. I also have a feather from the same spot in my rear view mirror from the PO. I've always considered it good luck.
- Thread starter
- #56
@cruiser enthuiser I bought a setup from eBay that included door lock actuators and the central locking system plus an alarm that I may not use. I purchased this one but there are many others that would supply what you need to get the job done. Then you run the wires to each door and fit the actuators to run the locks. It takes some time and figuring especially for the actuators but it is worth it for the 60 folk: You keep the stock look but gain central locking control. I am still trying to figure out how to do the rear liftgate, but I had a basic fleet style F150 I did this to years ago and it is nice not to travel all around to manually unlock doors to let the family in. I'll include more photos later of running wires from body to doors, other than that just orient the actuators based on the directions from the supplier.
In the middle of wiring the central locking/sound system, I was sidetracked by this thread and had to add LED lights to the interior. If you want more info head over to this thread or do a search on LEDs in the 60 section.
Before:
After:
I'm very happy with the result. It irritated me how dim the lights were, so this modification was very worthwhile. I bought all the lights from superbrightleds.com and my only complaint would be how hard it is to get behind the instrument/gauge cluster. I didn't want to mess with disconnecting the speedo (because I didn't want to mess it up and I also couldn't get the cable off) so my hands and arms are all scratched up. I tried removing some duct work for easier access, but I ended up probably doing it the hard way.
In the middle of wiring the central locking/sound system, I was sidetracked by this thread and had to add LED lights to the interior. If you want more info head over to this thread or do a search on LEDs in the 60 section.
Before:
After:
I'm very happy with the result. It irritated me how dim the lights were, so this modification was very worthwhile. I bought all the lights from superbrightleds.com and my only complaint would be how hard it is to get behind the instrument/gauge cluster. I didn't want to mess with disconnecting the speedo (because I didn't want to mess it up and I also couldn't get the cable off) so my hands and arms are all scratched up. I tried removing some duct work for easier access, but I ended up probably doing it the hard way.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
@cruiser enthuiser I bought a setup from eBay that included door lock actuators and the central locking system plus an alarm that I may not use. I purchased this one but there are many others that would supply what you need to get the job done. Then you run the wires to each door and fit the actuators to run the locks. It takes some time and figuring especially for the actuators but it is worth it for the 60 folk: You keep the stock look but gain central locking control. I am still trying to figure out how to do the rear liftgate, but I had a basic fleet style F150 I did this to years ago and it is nice not to travel all around to manually unlock doors to let the family in. I'll include more photos later of running wires from body to doors, other than that just orient the actuators based on the directions from the supplier.
In the middle of wiring the central locking/sound system, I was sidetracked by this thread and had to add LED lights to the interior. If you want more info head over to this thread or do a search on LEDs in the 60 section.
Before:
After:
I'm very happy with the result. It irritated me how dim the lights were, so this modification was very worthwhile. I bought all the lights from superbrightleds.com and my only complaint would be how hard it is to get behind the instrument/gauge cluster. I didn't want to mess with disconnecting the speedo (because I didn't want to mess it up and I also couldn't get the cable off) so my hands and arms are all scratched up. I tried removing some duct work for easier access, but I ended up probably doing it the hard way.
Yeah have been watching the SuperbrightLED thread for a long time and after seeing your post I just pulled the trigger on the gauge cluster lights. Not necessarily the cheapest solution to getting brighter lights but I am sure it will be well worth it. As for the speedo cable.... when I first replaced mine it was a bear to get the stupid thing unclipped (probably had NEVER been removed) but final get it off. Replaced the cable with a working one and have never had any problems since, I have pulled the gauge cluster completely out a couple times to replace/repair items so it is definitely worth it. Only thing that would make it easier is the removal of the steering wheel.
Very interested in what you are doing with the central locking system too, would love that in my 60. @cruiser enthuiser if you end up doing it let me know as I would love to help out and see what it is like.
@cruiser enthuiser I bought a setup from eBay that included door lock actuators and the central locking system plus an alarm that I may not use. I purchased this one but there are many others that would supply what you need to get the job done. Then you run the wires to each door and fit the actuators to run the locks. It takes some time and figuring especially for the actuators but it is worth it for the 60 folk: You keep the stock look but gain central locking control. I am still trying to figure out how to do the rear liftgate, but I had a basic fleet style F150 I did this to years ago and it is nice not to travel all around to manually unlock doors to let the family in. I'll include more photos later of running wires from body to doors, other than that just orient the actuators based on the directions from the supplier.
In the middle of wiring the central locking/sound system, I was sidetracked by this thread and had to add LED lights to the interior. If you want more info head over to this thread or do a search on LEDs in the 60 section.
Before:
After:
I'm very happy with the result. It irritated me how dim the lights were, so this modification was very worthwhile. I bought all the lights from superbrightleds.com and my only complaint would be how hard it is to get behind the instrument/gauge cluster. I didn't want to mess with disconnecting the speedo (because I didn't want to mess it up and I also couldn't get the cable off) so my hands and arms are all scratched up. I tried removing some duct work for easier access, but I ended up probably doing it the hard way.
Do those green LEDs work with the factory rheostat? AKA are they dimmable?
If they are, if you don't mind post up a pic of your invoice for that order. I haven't wanted to put the time into finding the correct green LEDs for everything (like you did) so if you could, that would be a huge help
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
- Thread starter
- #60
@GLTHFJ60 Yes they are dimmable, except of course the inclinometer . Ignore the first light below (GU10D-WWHP4-30: Warm White), that was for track lighting in my home, and I ordered extra of the instrument lights (WLED-GHP5: Green). I'm going to switch the HVAC light (3022-G9: Green), so that is why there are two invoices, the second one should arrive today and I'll post the difference. So the adjusted cost for what I'll have in my dash is about $50 (I bought up for the tach light so it would be as bright as the rest) plus shipping and tax because I'm in MO and so is superbrightLEDS.com . You could go cheaper for sure, but I'm very satisfied with what I came up with from all the info in the LED Light Swap thread.
. Ignore the first light below (GU10D-WWHP4-30: Warm White), that was for track lighting in my home, and I ordered extra of the instrument lights (WLED-GHP5: Green). I'm going to switch the HVAC light (3022-G9: Green), so that is why there are two invoices, the second one should arrive today and I'll post the difference. So the adjusted cost for what I'll have in my dash is about $50 (I bought up for the tach light so it would be as bright as the rest) plus shipping and tax because I'm in MO and so is superbrightLEDS.com . You could go cheaper for sure, but I'm very satisfied with what I came up with from all the info in the LED Light Swap thread.
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