Yeah , that first attempt has overheated steel written all over it - need a very small flame and move fairly quickly in a wide , even pattern - it should flow out very smoothly .
Sarge
Sarge
Builds The Mule: My OM617 swap and other improvements (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter DPV7070
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- Thread starter
- #222
Yeah, live and learn I suppose.
Try practicing on similar metal first next time - it really does help .
Sarge
Sarge
- Thread starter
- #224
Quick update:
Fuel tank is done, we'll see if it leaks or not.
Fuel lines are cut to length, fittings just need to be pushed on.
I put the fenders on today. I knew I was going to have to cut off the center support. I really didn't want to do that, but with the plated frame it was necessary. Another project created: fender supports.
I'm going to relocate my PS and Oil coolers to in front of the radiator. I think I'm going to have just enough room. I didn't think their present locations were going to interfere with the shock towers as much as they did.
One step forward, 4 steps back...
Fuel tank is done, we'll see if it leaks or not.
Fuel lines are cut to length, fittings just need to be pushed on.
I put the fenders on today. I knew I was going to have to cut off the center support. I really didn't want to do that, but with the plated frame it was necessary. Another project created: fender supports.
I'm going to relocate my PS and Oil coolers to in front of the radiator. I think I'm going to have just enough room. I didn't think their present locations were going to interfere with the shock towers as much as they did.
One step forward, 4 steps back...
One step forward, 4 steps back...
This always happens in a custom build to make things right.
- Thread starter
- #226
One day when I'm dead and gone, I don't want my sons cursing me every time they see the 40. I could've just slapped it all together, but of course I clean, paint, put together, figure out it's jacked up, take apart, obsess over details, think some more, then finally go after it...
I love this sh*t!
jstncse
Crawling over something
That bad ass OM617 is about 125hp and 180ft/lb. it's no powerhouse but it moves my 40 around ok. You may need to turbo that OM662 to make it acceptable.
- Thread starter
- #229
OM617.952 is the spec'd engine.
Not going to be blowing the doors off of anything, but I love pissing off Californians that are always in a f'ing hurry for no reason...
- Thread starter
- #230
So, I got some work done today on the fuel delivery system. Everything is Aeroquip FBL series except the steel 90s for the bulkhead fittings and the -6AN to 3/8" (had to jam it into the 5/16" OEM size fuel line, I'm not paying $25 for one that's -6 to 5/16" for fuel injected systems). Here's the setup under the hood. Probably going to re-route at some time as it's exposed in the wheel well where the manual steering box used to be...the chaffe tape is coming off the cigar hose more than likely.
Here's a bottom up shot. There's a terminal clamp on the frame securing both the feed and return lines as they go over the framerail. You can see the bolt head peeking through a hole in the frame.
I went a little overboard with the clamps, but it's spaced off the frame with SS spacers. Once I get a skid plate built I won't worry as much.
I just didn't like the thought of the fuel lines running over the top of the prop mount crossmember, mostly because there wasn't a good way to secure them. So I ran them through the frame. The old crossmember went through this same areas so the feed is on top and the return is on the bottom. I lucked out on this part as the assembled hose was small enough and went through the available space (I checked before hand
). Everything is wrapped in the plastic chaffe tape, went overboard again. The holes in the frame are blunted with grommet material (the kind you use in electrical panel knock out holes. If you couldn't tell, I grew up the son of an electrician...
Here's a bottom up shot. There's a terminal clamp on the frame securing both the feed and return lines as they go over the framerail. You can see the bolt head peeking through a hole in the frame.
I went a little overboard with the clamps, but it's spaced off the frame with SS spacers. Once I get a skid plate built I won't worry as much.
I just didn't like the thought of the fuel lines running over the top of the prop mount crossmember, mostly because there wasn't a good way to secure them. So I ran them through the frame. The old crossmember went through this same areas so the feed is on top and the return is on the bottom. I lucked out on this part as the assembled hose was small enough and went through the available space (I checked before hand
). Everything is wrapped in the plastic chaffe tape, went overboard again. The holes in the frame are blunted with grommet material (the kind you use in electrical panel knock out holes. If you couldn't tell, I grew up the son of an electrician...
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- Thread starter
- #231
So, I went "high and right" and stripped all the paint I've thrown on the fuel tank as I don't ever want to worry about this thing rusting. So I turned my driveway into "the beach" and went to town with my little handy blaster. Then I etched it with Metal Prep to make sure the POR-15 had something to bite into.
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- Thread starter
- #232
It's amazing how POR-15 lays flat. Look at that shine! If you squint, you can almost see someone...
What do you think of your BTB booster so far? Are your clips that hold the lid down tight?
When I got my booster, one was snug, the other was pretty loose. I tightened the loose one, and every time I drove, there was fluid leaking out from under the rubber gasket. So I have tightened both of them, but there's still brake fluid leaking after every drive. It's extremely frustrating, especially for the price I paid.
What are your thoughts?
When I got my booster, one was snug, the other was pretty loose. I tightened the loose one, and every time I drove, there was fluid leaking out from under the rubber gasket. So I have tightened both of them, but there's still brake fluid leaking after every drive. It's extremely frustrating, especially for the price I paid.
What are your thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #234
The lid on mine is almost too tight. You can see scratches where I had to use a screwdriver to pry the retainers over the detents. I'm satisfied thus far, but I haven't driven the ole Mule on the street yet...
- Thread starter
- #235
So, if you can't tell...I really don't want anything rusting over, on, under, or beside the fuel tank. I stripped the old paint out of the fuel tank area, etched it, cleaned it, then POR'd it. The rubber insulators are just old husky floor mat rubber. It's corrugated so water will drain out. Shouldn't have to worry about this area anymore. There was a bit of rust and pitting at the 12 o'clock in the picture. All good now. Oh, and that's original paint on the left side.
Good to know, thanks! Other than the leak, it has been working awesome! It feels great, and the built in prop valve works well. I think you'll be pleased with it. Hope you're driving it soon! Good luck
nice work with the plumbing. your buil keeps inspiring me. I'm moving slowly but doing many things very much like you have done.
coltoyota this engine can put a lot more out if you get a custom injector pump. I got one from a well known builder for about $1500 including overseas shipping that is claimed (and I actually believe it) to push this engine to 200+hp. I can turn up the fuel and boost to max out at about 250hp. we'll see if it works or not when I'm done but it should roar ( I'm planning on keeping it around 200). it's been more expensive than doing a 350 swap which would give more power yet but I like the diesel and unique factors that come with it plus I already had the engine. these things are super stout engines and can handle the increased power well as long as your piston rings and the ring grooves are in good shape. otherwise the extra boost will blow by and give you troubles.
I drove the car the OM617 came out of which is heavier than the fj40 and it would suck you back into your seat once into the power band and with 5 full sized adults filling the car driving in the mountains I still got 30ish mpg. I love this engine.
coltoyota this engine can put a lot more out if you get a custom injector pump. I got one from a well known builder for about $1500 including overseas shipping that is claimed (and I actually believe it) to push this engine to 200+hp. I can turn up the fuel and boost to max out at about 250hp. we'll see if it works or not when I'm done but it should roar ( I'm planning on keeping it around 200). it's been more expensive than doing a 350 swap which would give more power yet but I like the diesel and unique factors that come with it plus I already had the engine. these things are super stout engines and can handle the increased power well as long as your piston rings and the ring grooves are in good shape. otherwise the extra boost will blow by and give you troubles.
I drove the car the OM617 came out of which is heavier than the fj40 and it would suck you back into your seat once into the power band and with 5 full sized adults filling the car driving in the mountains I still got 30ish mpg. I love this engine.
You got a Dieselmeken pump?
yup. thats the one!! also got some good injectors with increased pop pressure. they were built by a guy who has dieselmenken pump and uses them himself. he loved them. I was looking for monark injectors as the Bosch ones apparently suck and have poor uniformity. the guy I found who builds them also had a set of these other injectors he built for me instead. they are German 1930s. I really can find much on them.
now I'm a wrambling on and poaching dvp7070s thread. just wanted to add some info about replacement parts to help improve this engines performance.
now I'm a wrambling on and poaching dvp7070s thread. just wanted to add some info about replacement parts to help improve this engines performance.
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- Thread starter
- #240
@franklin40 no worries. I'm glad my "trial and error" method is helping you out!!! That dieselmeken pump should be really sweet. Be sure to post pictures of your break in and first start. I've watched a lot of his videos and that guy is pretty handy to say the least.
***UPDATE***
I haven't stalled out on the build, just been farting around with the fuel system the last few weekends and have been busy at work. I've got the fuel system finished, built new tank hold downs out of 16ga steel, and re-routed my oil cooler lines this past weekend. I need to finish my transmission hump before I put the tank in for the last time so maybe I'll get cracking on that this weekend.
Major things left to do:
-finish tranny hump
-plumb shutoff valve (using a manual shutoff valve - picked up a Swagelok ball valve off flea bay for about $25. Credit to MilleniumFalcon's build on another site)
-figure out alternator / charging system integration - use a SAAB alternator, have mine re-wound with internal reg???
-plumb and mount pyro, boost, and oil pressure (does anyone have a good way to mount these on a horizontal bar. A pillar to A pillar)
-water temp integration with toyota gauge
-fix fender supports
I think that should get me on the road.
