The Long Slow Build - 1980 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter gcrump01
- Start date
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Looking good. Can't wait to see the top on it.
spill the beans.... your first post in this thread has a 2013 date. 3 years? As I look at my "To Do" list and my wallet2- 3 years seems about right. Our 40s were/are in very similar condition at the start line.......How much do you have in it and what percentage of the work did you do yourself?
- Thread starter
- #248
Yeah, actually bought it in 2012 so it's been more like 4 years. I did all of the tear down and all of the rebuild. I've paid people to do powder coating and painting. Also paid to have the engine completely rebuilt. I've learned to weld, rebuilt a winch, installed the suspension, rebuilt the wiring harness (with help from Coolerman) and learned tons about this truck. As far as cost, I do have a running spreadsheet with all that info. For your protection and mine I'll have to keep that a secret. If my wife finds out I'm liable to be living with whoever tells her. 
I've really tried to do everything "correctly" and not cut corners, etc. So I'm sure I will never get my labor out of it, but I have no doubt it is worth more than the true $ I have in it. But hey, I doubt an accountant's labor is worth much anyway.
I've really tried to do everything "correctly" and not cut corners, etc. So I'm sure I will never get my labor out of it, but I have no doubt it is worth more than the true $ I have in it. But hey, I doubt an accountant's labor is worth much anyway.
Hahaha! Well you have done a job to be proud of. Pat yourself on the back. Maybe in 3-4 years mine will be in similar condition. By then my knees will be shot and I will have to put an auto in.Yeah, actually bought it in 2012 so it's been more like 4 years. I did all of the tear down and all of the rebuild. I've paid people to do powder coating and painting. Also paid to have the engine completely rebuilt. I've learned to weld, rebuilt a winch, installed the suspension, rebuilt the wiring harness (with help from Coolerman) and learned tons about this truck. As far as cost, I do have a running spreadsheet with all that info. For your protection and mine I'll have to keep that a secret. If my wife finds out I'm liable to be living with whoever tells her.
upperblack
SILVER Star
Love this thread, been following for a while.
What painter are you using and are you happy with him?
What painter are you using and are you happy with him?
- Thread starter
- #251
I'm using a "retired" guy outside of Chatsworth, GA. Ran a shop for years, now just does work from home. Pretty happy so far, the hood will be the true test though. Someone else had done the tub, a friend here in Calhoun. He has some medical problems so I had to move it. He did mix enough paint for the entire truck so that new guy doesn't have to try & match anything.
I'm trying to get on ACC's schedule to get the brakes and clutch fixed correctly. Shop I was using just can't get them to bleed out correctly. I can drive it up onto a tow dolly, or maybe around the block, but that's about all I'd feel comfortable with.
Once the brake & clutch problems are resolved, I'll have a finished driver - topless anyway..
I'm trying to get on ACC's schedule to get the brakes and clutch fixed correctly. Shop I was using just can't get them to bleed out correctly. I can drive it up onto a tow dolly, or maybe around the block, but that's about all I'd feel comfortable with.
Once the brake & clutch problems are resolved, I'll have a finished driver - topless anyway..
- Thread starter
- #252
Well ACC Toyota can't get me in until September 6th to deal with the brake and clutch bleeding issues. I'm going to have new Toyota master cylinders for both on hand when I get there, just in case.
thinking about installing the windshield in the frame & I've watched the videos. Is it really as simple as it looks?
I'm going to have new Toyota master cylinders for both on hand when I get there, just in case.thinking about installing the windshield in the frame & I've watched the videos. Is it really as simple as it looks?
upperblack
SILVER Star
You may want to try Peter Meriman at Meriman automotive in Duluth. That is where I take my 40s for work I can't do myself. He's a great guy and only works on land cruisers.
- Thread starter
- #254
Thanks, I seem to recall his name mentioned before on here somewhere? I'll give him a call.
As far as glass installs go, the cruiser windshield was the easiest I've experienced. I'd say go for it and farm it out if it doesn't go easily for you.
- Thread starter
- #256
I have to send a big thanks to Peter Merriam at Merriam Automotive in Duluth, GA. I now have good clutch & brakes, and I've always been a big fan of brakes.
Somehow I've developed a short in the wiring. Running light fuse keeps blowing as soon as I pull the light switch???? I am positive everything worked a few months ago. Not really sure how to diagnose. Guess I can unplug the rear harness & see if anything changes, same with the engine compartment harness??? Any other ideas?
Somehow I've developed a short in the wiring. Running light fuse keeps blowing as soon as I pull the light switch???? I am positive everything worked a few months ago. Not really sure how to diagnose. Guess I can unplug the rear harness & see if anything changes, same with the engine compartment harness??? Any other ideas?
I had a similar issue with my running light wiring. Turned out one of the positive wires became pinched under something I had tightened up, which was enough to cause it to short out and blow a fuse when the switch was turned on.
Since it's your running lights, follow those wires and see if the positive one is pinched or bare somewhere and making contact with the body. Maybe just inside the engine compartment where the front light wires go through the fender or possibly it got pinched in the rear lights after installing those in the bumper.
Those are the areas I would check first. You could also narrow it down to the front or rear harness like you said by disconnecting the rear harness and try the lights then.
Since it's your running lights, follow those wires and see if the positive one is pinched or bare somewhere and making contact with the body. Maybe just inside the engine compartment where the front light wires go through the fender or possibly it got pinched in the rear lights after installing those in the bumper.
Those are the areas I would check first. You could also narrow it down to the front or rear harness like you said by disconnecting the rear harness and try the lights then.
- Thread starter
- #258
Thanks. I found a thread on here where it turned out to be the switch, seems unlikely since running lights worked a month ago, but is there any way to test the switch or bypass it & see if the fuse still blows?
- Thread starter
- #259
Ok, after isolating the problem to the rear harness, I eventually found a loose wire at the passenger side marker light. Now that it is fixed, I have good running lights & no blown fuses.
Next problem is the brake lights. Pretty sure those worked also a few months ago, but if you've read above, there has been a lot of work and adjusting done on the brakes. I thought the lights came on when the pedal is pressed far enough to let the switch spring out to close the circuit. Letting off the pedal breaks the circuit by pushing in the plunger type switch. What am I missing?
The brake lights use the same bulb area of the rear lights as the running lights, so I know the bulbs are good.
Next problem is the brake lights. Pretty sure those worked also a few months ago, but if you've read above, there has been a lot of work and adjusting done on the brakes. I thought the lights came on when the pedal is pressed far enough to let the switch spring out to close the circuit. Letting off the pedal breaks the circuit by pushing in the plunger type switch. What am I missing?
The brake lights use the same bulb area of the rear lights as the running lights, so I know the bulbs are good.
They don't actually I think. While they inhabit the same socket there are two separate circuits involved. The tail/brake light in the rear should use an 1157 bulb which has two filaments- one for running/tail lights and one for brake lights. The bulb will have two positive terminals on the base not one like an 1156 bulb. The same bulb is used in the pre '75 style front running lights/blinkers with only one bulb in the fixture.
HTH,
Will
