The cure for the common stuck bolt. (1 Viewer)

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Got this in an email from a buddy, looking forward to my tranny swap to try it out.


"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt.
Average torque load to loosen nut:

No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds
WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds
PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix..................... 53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.
Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.
ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid
 
Holy crap that is great info. Never would have guessed. the ATF will also help against future rust as well. Its a two-fer.

The non-aerosol sprayer is interesting. I need something to carry in the truck though.
 
Heat followed by paraffin is a classic treatment, but they didn't test that one. Acetone is pretty volatile, so you need a tight sealing cap or it will evaporate.
 
Acetone is pretty volatile, so you need a tight sealing cap or it will evaporate.

That is an excellent point. I was planning on using an old school oil squirter, but now rethinking what to use if I pre-make it. A buddy A&P mechanic (airframe and powerplant) told me about ATF and acetone for this use a couple years ago, and this appears to confirm the advise.

Anybody have any grand ideas on what to use that can both store it long term and squirt it to a tight space? Otherwise I would just mix it every time, or use a tight fitting container and a syringe/squirter/acid brush/bulb.
 
I was thinking of mixing 2 gallons (buy one of each) and using a turkey baister or something similar to suck it out/apply it... That way it would stay sealed and be easy to apply.
 
I was thinking of mixing 2 gallons (buy one of each) and using a turkey baister or something similar to suck it out/apply it... That way it would stay sealed and be easy to apply.

Thanks. You must have the need for something like this frequently, as 2 gallons is heck of lot in my book. But then again, rust is much less common here. Note to everyone: ATF is quite stinky in the long-term, so avoid spilling this stuff or using it too liberally in your interior.
 
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I have have been preaching this one for a while. :) do a Google search for Ed's red. A slightly modified version of it using equal parts diesel, fuel Dextron 3 ATF, acetone and mineral spirits beats other penetrating oil I have found in over 35 years of wrenching. I don't normally retain the lanolin but its probably not a bad idea for keeping things slightly coated for a while afterwards.


Mark...
 
Anyone ever used BG IN FORCE , great prpdcut, better than PB and WD but i wonder how it would stack against atf and acetone.
 
That is an excellent point. I was planning on using an old school oil squirter, but now rethinking what to use if I pre-make it. A buddy A&P mechanic (airframe and powerplant) told me about ATF and acetone for this use a couple years ago, and this appears to confirm the advise.

Anybody have any grand ideas on what to use that can both store it long term and squirt it to a tight space? Otherwise I would just mix it every time, or use a tight fitting container and a syringe/squirter/acid brush/bulb.

I'm thinking of using a half empty (or half full) metal acetone can and filling it the rest of the way with Dex3. I will mark it clearly so I won't be surprised some day though.
Acetone is nasty s***, and builds pressure. I wouldn't put it in anything plastic for sure.
I have some transfer pipettes made of polyethylene and those should work well for sucking and dripping. A pipette is essentially an eyedropper type of thing.

Is this something you do over several days, or is it fairly quick?

I've also found some stuff called Corrosion Stop CSP, made by the P'Blaster folks. It's like thin grease in a spray can. I've been spraying anything I don't want to rust to s*** under my truck, hoping it works. I've bought it at Home Despot. I used it on some chains and boomers and was impressed with how well it protected.
 
very interesting. Can't believe I never heard this one before! great learning something new that will be veru useful here in New England
 
I learned of this here on mud a while back. Great for coating the under carriage. The acetone will eat through anything with a rubber seal though. I killed my garden sprayer with the mix.

Pat
 
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Some of you fellas sound like you might like using a cavity wax.

Eastwood has a few:

http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Blac...912784&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=3m+anti+rust+wax

http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Blac...913016&sr=8-1&keywords=eastwood+anti+rust+wax

The stuff that seems to get the best reviews is from a German, Mike Sanders.

http://www.mike-sander.de/

as far as I know though, you'd have to buy from an English or European stockist and have them post it to you, and those are listed on his site on the right hand side.

Mike Sanders Korrossions-Shutzfett as applied to a 200 series LC:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/71493-Land-Cruiser-200-an-overland-build-up
 
I store my modified Ed's red in old oil jugs. I use a soda bottle with the tip for a 1 quart gear lube bottle screwed on the top of it to apply it.


Mark...
 
Really interesting stuff. I just finished an unrelated 80 project that left me with 60% concentration of acetone in my blood by weight!!! Gawed I probably killed half of my brain cells working with that nasty stuff! Anyhow. Regardless of your setup to carry/apply this mix you need to make sure that the mix is safe on the synthetic pieces in your storing/spraying system i.e. the sprayer tip and tubing etc... a plastic turkey baster could be tricky. Depending on the type of plastics used. I have used a plastic bottle that had some denatured alcohol originally to store acetone without issues even after a long exposure while it melted a seemingly similar kind of plastic bottle (spray nozzle and all) to a gooy mess. I'll go with metal/glass parts whenever possible. Just my. 02 cents.
Btw. Great information. Really useful.
 
So far I have not found any generic spray bottles that will work for this stuff. The acetone eats up the valving inside pretty quick.


Mark...
 
Thanks guys. Excellent ideas. I will pre-mix, keep it in marked metal can, and use the various bulbs and irrigation syringes I have sitting around until they are gone (hospital giveaways). My bulbs and irrigation syringes will likely fail after a use or two; after that I will try the soda bottle/gear lube tip idea. Plus I have about 50 acid brushes... Thanks.
 
Polypropylene is fine with acetone. Polycarbonate and polyvinylchloride are not. It is not that toxic. Your 12 year old can buy it at the drug store as a component in nail polish remover.
 
a little paint brush for lube or penetrating oil will do wonders
 

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