The box build up (1 Viewer)

[ropodebo]

Welcome to the box build up thread

Here's a little background about "the box"...

I got the box (for me, Tanya 2.0) from my girlfriend for the price of free. It's an 82 fj60 with 206k on the clock, but probably ~250 since the odometer broke. It's an ex border patrol vehicle and came with a nice book with receipts Dating back to 96 when it was located in Cali . it was located down in Pagosa springs where it's been sitting for the past 4 years. A little bit of new gas in the carb and a battery and she fired right up. Loaded on a trailer and brought it back with me to Colorado Springs .

It's a little rusty on the drivers rear quarter but underneath is pretty rust free. Guess the Regan era dirt and mud preserved the frame haha

I threw gas in the tank and tried to see if I could drive it. It drove... For about a 1/4 mile. Come to find out the tank is covered with a layer of surface rust and clogged up the filter and assuming got into the carb.

Called up toyota corporate and found out I'm due for that nifty recall on the tank so that saved me a few hundred. So I've got that coming soon.

When I did my short test drive, I realized my brakes were super weak.. So I took a look at the discs first . Drivers side had no pads left, but a decent rotor. Passenger side had a tore up rotor , but brand new pads Haha.. I had new pads that came with the box, and new rotors so it'll be good I stop this weekend. The drums on the other hand.. I haven't been able to get the covers off, thanks to a lil rust.

So this weekend, I should have brakes done and the carb rebuilt. I'm waiting on the call from toyota to get my new tank installed.

Plans I have to get accomplished by Easter:

-running and driving
-ome heavy 3in
-roof rack
-rock sliders
-rear locker

Seems reasonable right?

 

[SteveH]

Nice truck!

The rotors must be pressed on/off by a machine shop, unless you have the facilities yourself. The NAPA on 8th street in Colo Springs did this for me many years back.

 

[ropodebo]

I got r&r offroad doing em. I can basically push the truck there in 10 min haha

 

[Spudman]

Nice find and free even better, looking forward to the build

 

[ropodebo]

Thanks, I can't wait to get it running good. I got the call from the local dealer today and they have no idea where to start with the tank haha
My fj didn't even show in their system when they ran the vin . I was tempted to call them back, tell em to order a tank and I'll install it myself (only 10 14mm bolts 1 connector and 8 lines)

Has anyone else done this notice if they replace the sending unit also? Mines fine, just was hella rusty before I somewhat cleaned it

 

[SteveH]

Talk to John Wood or Charlie Lowe at the north Liberty Toyota, and you'll get the best Land Cruiser support you will find locally. I have been buying parts from them for 20 years. On a warranty recall deal for the gas tank, they will not let you install it yourself.

 

[ropodebo]

Talk to John Wood or Charlie Lowe at the north Liberty Toyota, and you'll get the best Land Cruiser support you will find locally. I have been buying parts from them for 20 years. On a warranty recall deal for the gas tank, they will not let you install it yourself.

I haven't physically been to the dealership yet, but that's good information to have. I'll have to go introduce myself.

I know on the recalls you can't do it yourself haha just making a joke

 

[Slow Left]

My fj didn't even show in their system when they ran the vin .

I ran into a similar issue. They guys at the desk told me I had the incorrect VIN number for my vehicle. I double checked and confirmed that I was giving them the correct VIN number, and I could see their minds working to find the best bureaucratic angles to exploit any sign of weakness on my part and place the blame squarely on another opportunistic 'fact'...a 'fact' of course that would also conveniently be outside their realm of control, therefor responsibility.

So, I played the hand dealt me and gave them the poker face and used the "I don't know. All I know is that there was a gas tank recall and a seat belt recall and this is the correct VIN" as a fall back point to keep the ball in their court.

Seeing that I was not going to help him out of the situation by giving him an opening, the man behind the desk did the only thing left for him to do. He called over his manager.

Same process with the manager, except that he invoked an additional level of authority (granted to him not, as you would hope, from some magical competence, but rather from an additional level of authority above him...an absent yet ever present authority).

While this manager was considering if he was going to have to pull out the nuclear option (his implied threats didn't seem to be working on me...maybe I was really that dumb...) and just flat out deny me with no reason given (...a true moral dilemma...), an unaware service tech strolled over to hand over a piece of paper to the folks who trade in paper and was immediately granted their full attention and expectation.

Being a tech, he attentively listened to the 'facts' being delivered to him and probably understood the implied meaning behind their narrative, but strangely didn't seem to mind. No cowering, 'searching' of papers, shifting of posture...a true glimmer of hope. Could this be the hero I need? An unlikely hero who seems completely out of place in this land ruled by papers, political logic and bizarre use of the spoken and written language?

Well, since this is an 'American' story (one that always has a happy ending), the answer is yes. He asked them if they had already tried looking up the VIN on the Service computer system. They replied 'No.' So he took a post-it note (not being of their world, I guess he didn't understand the value of paper as they did), wrote down the VIN I gave them, disappeared through a port-hole to another world, came back and informed me that 'Yes, both the tank and seat belt recall services had been performed on this vehicle,' handing me a single sheet of paper with all the necessary information to confirm what he said was true.

In conclusion, while there is no moral to this story, there is apparently another computer system that holds all the service records for these recalls performed.
Have fun, enjoy the show if they begin to give you one, but in the end, you have the strategic high ground, since by federal law, Toyota is required to perform the recall services (but, as articulated in the manuscript above, no need to go that far...go easy on 'em...they'll figure it out).

 

[Slow Left]

...or you could just PM ('start a conversation' using your private messaging service here on MUD) @beno giving him your VIN number and he might be able to tell you if the recall has already been done on your vehicle...

...but then you would miss the show...

 

[ropodebo]

I already got liberty toyota on it. They ran the vin, nothing came up , talked to another person there, still nothing. Then they said to hit up corporate. After 30 minutes, thy gave me a case number , said I should get a call in 1-2 days about it from liberty (which I got a few hours later) and got everything sorted out somewhat. Liberty toyota told me they're going to figure out how to go through with the recall and call me back

 

[Slow Left]

Nice! Sounds like those guys over there at Liberty are on it.

 

[ropodebo]

I hope To have the box road worthy by the 15th

 

[Slow Left]

Let's see, other folks on MUD might be able to give you better recommendations, but I've found that there are several key decision points on how to go about 'base lining' a used '60.

This is a 2F engine, right? With OEM Aisin carb?

In those service records that came with the rig, what are the major service repairs that have been done on 'the Box'?

Usually, replacing all the fluids (engine oil, diffs, transfer, tranny, coolant flush and replacement) and as many gaskets as possible is the general approach to get the rig going again.

You're on the brakes (if you are going to replace the front brake rotors, might as well do a full knuckle rebuild back to and including the bearings and inner axel seal - Cruiser Outfitters sells a front knuckle rebuild kit with Marlin seals ~$200), don't forget to replace the rubber brake hoses while you have that all apart.

Given that you estimate ~250k on the clock (depending on what repairs have already been done), if you plan on replacing the head gasket (a wise idea if it is original head gasket - but you can also make this decision based on the numbers you see if you do a simple compression test once the engine is running), then might consider rebuilding the head while it's out (don't forget the galley plug fix) and replacing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket (and having the manifold assembly planed before reinstalling).

Carb rebuilds on OEM Aisin carbs are also completely doable (@Pin_Head has posted some nice videos on YouTube and the FSM outlines the procedures well), but I would first make the decision whether or not to run the truck fully smogged or do a complete desmog (see attached .pdf on how to 'Desmog'). That depends whether you are allowed to desmog in your county/state and whether you intend to resell out of state.
If you do the desmog, then send the carb and distributor out to be rebuilt by Jim C. (@FJ40Jim ) because when you remove the EGR system, the distributor needs to be recurved in order to compensate for that.
If you stay smogged, you are going to have to work through testing each component of the Emissions System once the truck is running (see Factory Service Manual for Emissions - .pdf FSMs available here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fsms.743084/ ), then work back to the carb and ignition systems.
Vacuum leaks severely affect the performance of the 2Fs, so by working from the Emissions components back, you remove Emissions components/hoses from the possible list of vac leaks before tackling the big stuff (manifold gaskets, cracks in the intake manifold below the carb, insulator gasket, carb issues, gaskets on the EGR system etc.).

The other thing is the steering. Since it was a Border vehicle (and depending on the service done on record) it probably took a beating, so if you pop of the steering arm at any point, might as well go ahead and send that Steering Box out to West Texas Offroad to be rebuilt and put on new 555 tie rod and relay rod ends.

Also depending on service records, if you replace the the radiator (do a search here on MUD for the best direct fit radiator), do ahead and do all the heater hoses, thermostat and water pump. If you do one hose at a time, as soon as you install a new hose somewhere, you will find that another 30 year hose now becomes the weak link and it will blow sooner than later...so just get them all done. Time this rad/hose/therm/wp work with flushing the system, too, to remove and sediments that might have collected in the block/heating system. I would flush before installing the new stuff.

How you make these decisions is probably going to depend on the resources/end goal that you have. The shotgun approach (replacing complete systems) will get you there quicker with more piece of mind and probably less headache in the long run, but will cost more up front and will commit you to the end.
If you take the approach of just getting the rig running and then take measurements (like doing compression tests before just pulling and rebuilding the head) or use the information in the service records to try and decide whether or not to tear into a system, then you will be approaching it more strategically, but be forced to sift through more uncertainty and it might take you longer and the overall process might not be as efficient as the shotgun approach. But you'll get there, through determination. This is the approach I take.

Anyways, good fortune has smiled upon you with your old lady hooking you up with this '60. You're gonna have a blast working on it as well as driving it. Best of luck!

 

[ropodebo]

Let's see, other folks on MUD might be able to give you better recommendations, but I've found that there are several key decision points on how to go about 'base lining' a used '60.

This is a 2F engine, right? With OEM Aisin carb?

In those service records that came with the rig, what are the major service repairs that have been done on 'the Box'?

Usually, replacing all the fluids (engine oil, diffs, transfer, tranny, coolant flush and replacement) and as many gaskets as possible is the general approach to get the rig going again.

You're on the brakes (if you are going to replace the front brake rotors, might as well do a full knuckle rebuild back to and including the bearings and inner axel seal - Cruiser Outfitters sells a front knuckle rebuild kit with Marlin seals ~$200), don't forget to replace the rubber brake hoses while you have that all apart.

Given that you estimate ~250k on the clock (depending on what repairs have already been done), if you plan on replacing the head gasket (a wise idea if it is original head gasket - but you can also make this decision based on the numbers you see if you do a simple compression test once the engine is running), then might consider rebuilding the head while it's out (don't forget the galley plug fix) and replacing the intake/exhaust manifold gasket (and having the manifold assembly planed before reinstalling).

Carb rebuilds on OEM Aisin carbs are also completely doable (@Pin_Head has posted some nice videos on YouTube and the FSM outlines the procedures well), but I would first make the decision whether or not to run the truck fully smogged or do a complete desmog (see attached .pdf on how to 'Desmog'). That depends whether you are allowed to desmog in your county/state and whether you intend to resell out of state.
If you do the desmog, then send the carb and distributor out to be rebuilt by Jim C. (@FJ40Jim ) because when you remove the EGR system, the distributor needs to be recurved in order to compensate for that.
If you stay smogged, you are going to have to work through testing each component of the Emissions System once the truck is running (see Factory Service Manual for Emissions - .pdf FSMs available here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fsms.743084/ ), then work back to the carb and ignition systems.
Vacuum leaks severely affect the performance of the 2Fs, so by working from the Emissions components back, you remove Emissions components/hoses from the possible list of vac leaks before tackling the big stuff (manifold gaskets, cracks in the intake manifold below the carb, insulator gasket, carb issues, gaskets on the EGR system etc.).

The other thing is the steering. Since it was a Border vehicle (and depending on the service done on record) it probably took a beating, so if you pop of the steering arm at any point, might as well go ahead and send that Steering Box out to West Texas Offroad to be rebuilt and put on new 555 tie rod and relay rod ends.

Also depending on service records, if you replace the the radiator (do a search here on MUD for the best direct fit radiator), do ahead and do all the heater hoses, thermostat and water pump. If you do one hose at a time, as soon as you install a new hose somewhere, you will find that another 30 year hose now becomes the weak link and it will blow sooner than later...so just get them all done. Time this rad/hose/therm/wp work with flushing the system, too, to remove and sediments that might have collected in the block/heating system. I would flush before installing the new stuff.

How you make these decisions is probably going to depend on the resources/end goal that you have. The shotgun approach (replacing complete systems) will get you there quicker with more piece of mind and probably less headache in the long run, but will cost more up front and will commit you to the end.
If you take the approach of just getting the rig running and then take measurements (like doing compression tests before just pulling and rebuilding the head) or use the information in the service records to try and decide whether or not to tear into a system, then you will be approaching it more strategically, but be forced to sift through more uncertainty and it might take you longer and the overall process might not be as efficient as the shotgun approach. But you'll get there, through determination. This is the approach I take.

Anyways, good fortune has smiled upon you with your old lady hooking you up with this '60. You're gonna have a blast working on it as well as driving it. Best of luck!

Wow, lots of great information!!

Yes it's a 2f with the oem carb. As far as I know, the engine was rebuilt by the previous owner before it was parked. But it looks to have the oem radiator. I'll be doing all the fluids before I try driving around.

I'll eventually do the desmog as there isn't any of that commie emissions stuff but I do know most of the emissions junk is newer, as I've noticed some of the paperwork was emissions testing when it was still a Cali fj.

I've got a dry rotted rad hose waiting to get replaced. (Already have replacement hose)

I'm going to go through the records and see the latest ones done. I'll update when I get home in a few hours

 

[Slow Left]

Wow, lots of great information!!

Yes it's a 2f with the oem carb. As far as I know, the engine was rebuilt by the previous owner before it was parked.

OK, so then it might well be worth running those compression tests first before you tear into the head.

What, specifically, do the service records indicate was done as far as engine repairs?

What's the story with lineage of ownership? The 'previous owner' was the original owner (the Border Service)? Or where there other owners before that?

 

[ropodebo]

I know there was a minimum of 2 owners before me. The last owner has had it since '99

 

[Slow Left]

But it looks to have the oem radiator.

Original radiator or OEM radiator? It can still be an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) part but be a replacement part (no the original part put on at manufacturing of the vehicle).

Assuming the service records are complete (how far back do the service records go?), if there is no record of a radiator purchase/install, then you can assume it is the original (if you confirm that it is OEM).

 

[ropodebo]

Original is what I meant. The oldest I've found is 96 doing a quick browse through. The folder isn't too thick. I know the po kept records, not sure about anyone else.

 

[Slow Left]

I'll eventually do the desmog as there isn't any of that commie emissions stuff but I do know most of the emissions junk is newer, as I've noticed some of the paperwork was emissions testing when it was still a Cali fj.

Once you get the rig running again, like I said above, getting the 2F to perform correctly requires that you tackle the vac leaks. The emissions components (all that vac hose and the associated components) have to be sorted through and tested according to the FSM, otherwise, they will affect performance.
Like I mentioned above, if you can decide upfront whether to smog or desmog, it will send you down one path versus the other. You can always turn back and change paths, it just comes down to a cost in resources and attention.

And, for what it's worth, it's an FJ60 or '60, not a FJ...(FJ is an FJCruiser)...so if you call it an FJ, the old cranky geezers here on MUD won't know what you are referring to and you will miss their wisdom...

 

[ropodebo]

I'm kinda happy I got a fsm, chilton, 2f specific, emissions, and body book as well as an aisin carb break down sheet with it.

And I can accept that haha I'm use to typing in fc all the time instead of fc3s (or 2nd gen rx7)
I'm still brand new to anything landcruiser. and most work I've done on toyotas was on Tanya 1 (which was an 85 4runner) so I can use any info I can get