Switched power locations? (2 Viewers)

[sleepycruiser]

I want to install a few USB/12 volt hookups in the LC 2nd, 3rd row and rear for iPads, inverters, etc. Is there a centralized switched power location so that they are only on when the car is on?

 

[sleepycruiser]

Could I just use the power wire to the USB chargers from the remote wires off of one of the car amps I will install?

 

[retrofive]

If me, I would would run a decent gauge wire to back to a dist block (fused) and then break out to amp and usb ports..... or something like that

 

[sleepycruiser]

I will have a distribution block (2amps) coming from the battery, but wouldn't the USB chargers still be on all the time since they don't have a turn on/off? I will have to experiment with the remote wire bc I believe that still carries power....I haven't hooked the amps up though so I can't check it out yet.

 

[chap79]

I installed an AUX fuse box in the driver kick well for expand ability... I can't recall what I tapped into to switched power to the left side of the block though

 

[Corbet]

Why don't you want them on all the time? the ability to charge portable devices when the car is parked ideal.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Will they run the battery down? They have LEDs in them that would be on all the time. I wasn't sure about that.

 

[sleepycruiser]

I installed an AUX fuse box in the driver kick well for expand ability... I can't recall what I tapped into to switched power to the left side of the block though

Do you have a link to that fuse box? The only ones i have found look very small/cheaply made. That one looks nicer.

 

[chap79]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014...AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+12

 

[1973Guppie]

do yourself a favor and run a dedicated fusebox for switched power. I got a blue sea unit and mounted it in the engine bay, it is powered via a standard relay that is activated via a fuse tap to one of the switched lines. Now whenever I want to add an accessory I just have to wire it right up to the blue sea unit. If you are running alot of house accessories as well you could run a dedicated fuse box for house (engine key off) always on accessories. I did not need to run a house unit as most of my house accessories are pulling more power and are hooked directly to the aux battery (fridge, compressor, etc)

 

[Corbet]

Will they run the battery down? They have LEDs in them that would be on all the time. I wasn't sure about that.

iPads & phones will not kill your battery for days maybe weeks. An inverter is another story. That kind of item I'd hardware in personally.

And like everyone has already mentioned, use a proper fuse box/panel like the BlueSea unit. Electrical fires suck.

 

[gofast]

@1973guppy 's suggestion is a good one and the way I went as well. To answer your question though, you could tap off your remote for the amp - the tap should excite a relay that draws main power from separate 12v feed. What would happen then is the remote would trigger the relay and wake it up and then the relay powers your usb but it takes the power from your separate 12v feed. Safest way to do it.

You also have switched power by tapping into your cig lighter, your sunroof main, if you have the lx450 the cd player is switched as well under the console.

There is also this - blade fuse tap that you could put into your radio fuse. Fuse Tap | eBay

 

[george_tlc]

USB dual outlets (the typical ones you find on the net with a blue power LED etc) typically draw around 10 - 15mA quiescent (just sitting there).

So, lets take 30 days (1 month of vehicle sitting) and you have 30 x 24 x 0.015 = 11A.Hours from your battery. Not a huge amount, but not insignificant *IF* you don't use your vehicle for a month+ at a time...

I just finished tweaking the fuse distribution panel on my patrol (recent short trip back to oz) and put a high current in/off marine switch in-line with the battery to fuse connection. This way when I'm not around for any length of time, I just rotate the switch to off and ALL accessories fed from the aux fuse panel (including fridge power, rear lights, air compressor, USB outlets etc etc) are disconnected from the battery.

cheers,
george.

 

[sleepycruiser]

Can you post some pics of how you have it run? Links to the relay, etc would be very helpful. I can run amps, etc but haven't dealt too much with relays etc and the flow of power using the setup you describe. It sounds like what I want to do though. Thanks!

do yourself a favor and run a dedicated fusebox for switched power. I got a blue sea unit and mounted it in the engine bay, it is powered via a standard relay that is activated via a fuse tap to one of the switched lines. Now whenever I want to add an accessory I just have to wire it right up to the blue sea unit. If you are running alot of house accessories as well you could run a dedicated fuse box for house (engine key off) always on accessories. I did not need to run a house unit as most of my house accessories are pulling more power and are hooked directly to the aux battery (fridge, compressor, etc)

 

[TexasJack]

I have a Blue Sea 5032 installed in my glove box. I put it in the glove box because everything under my hood gets covered in mud when I wheel. I initally direct wired it to the battery with a hand-turned switch so that everything wiring into it was on whenever I turned the switch on. This has really gotten to be a major pain. I have to turn this switch everytime I get out of the car and yes, I have run my battery down multiple times because my rig is not a daily driver. I want to modify the the function of the fuse block to turn on and off when I turn on and off the ignition. I bought a standard 40 AMP relay today and used the following wiring guide I found on the web. The positive line from my battery is connected to prong 30. I direct wired the 86 prong to the lighter fuse in my OEM fuse block using an ATC fuse tap as shown in the other photo (no valet switch) and I grounded the relay prong 85 to the ground line coming from the battery into my Blue Sea fuse block. It isn't working and I cannot figure out why. When I start the car, none of my accessories are getting any power. My live wire from the battery still has power and my ground is still successfully grounded to the battery. I have checked the fuses and they are all OK. When I turn on the ignition, I am not getting any power from the relay into my fuse box which is now wired to the battery through prong 87 of the relay. Any ideas on what I did incorrectly?

 

[1973Guppie]

I have a Blue Sea 5032 installed in my glove box. I put it in the glove box because everything under my hood gets covered in mud when I wheel. I initally direct wired it to the battery with a hand-turned switch so that everything wiring into it was on whenever I turned the switch on. This has really gotten to be a major pain. I have to turn this switch everytime I get out of the car and yes, I have run my battery down multiple times because my rig is not a daily driver. I want to modify the the function of the fuse block to turn on and off when I turn on and off the ignition. I bought a standard 40 AMP relay today and used the following wiring guide I found on the web. The positive line from my battery is connected to prong 30. I direct wired the 86 prong to the lighter fuse in my OEM fuse block using an ATC fuse tap as shown in the other photo (no valet switch) and I grounded the relay prong 85 to the ground line coming from the battery into my Blue Sea fuse block. It isn't working and I cannot figure out why. When I start the car, none of my accessories are getting any power. My live wire from the battery still has power and my ground is still successfully grounded to the battery. I have checked the fuses and they are all OK. When I turn on the ignition, I am not getting any power from the relay into my fuse box which is now wired to the battery through prong 87 of the relay. Any ideas on what I did incorrectly?

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maybe a bad relay? pull the relay and test it on the battery using some leads. You should hear an audible click. I see them go bad all the time but they are cheap and easy to replace.

 

[george_tlc]

^ measure voltage across 85/86 with a meter to verify 12V is actually applied to the coil when you expect it to.

Measure that you have 12V at 30. Measure voltage at 87 which should be 12V when the coil is activated.

You are sure you relay works?...

cheers,
george.

 

[1973Guppie]

Can you post some pics of how you have it run? Links to the relay, etc would be very helpful. I can run amps, etc but haven't dealt too much with relays etc and the flow of power using the setup you describe. It sounds like what I want to do though. Thanks!

happy to help, below someone posted a relay diagrahm, no idea if those #'s are right but it is not complex. The prongs on the relay are noted. The main benefit is that you are not running all that electricity used by your fuse box accesories through the taped source, the relay acts as a switch to power from the battery instead.

 

[TexasJack]

I have purchased 2 different relays since Friday. Neither worked. I'll recheck all the connections for power in the morning with my multi-meter. I am guessing from your comments that it looks correctly wired based on the diagrams?

 

[1973Guppie]

^ measure voltage across 85/86 with a meter to verify 12V is actually applied to the coil when you expect it to.

Measure that you have 12V at 30. Measure voltage at 87 which should be 12V when the coil is activated.

You are sure you relay works?...

cheers,
george.

sorry to hijack but george I know you will have the answer to this one, do you know of a source for high quality robust standard relays? I would like to change out all the cheaper ones on my truck. I have just had too many of these go bad. The best I have found are Hella brand.