I hope he's using ATF, since that is what is in the specs.
Steering gear box rebuild (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 96r50
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I hope he's using ATF, since that is what is in the specs.
I didn't see the inside of mine since I had West Texas Offroad do it, but the filter in my reservoir was filled with a bunch of crap like that (see picture). I wound up replacing it, though it could be cleaned if you're gentler than I am. Might want to check that if you're going to the trouble of rebuilding the box.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
I owned it long enough to drive it about 15 miles before I pulled the 3FE. So... no idea.
Pump and reservoir are gone.
Awsome write up was going to tackle rebuild as my input seal leaking also my pump and resevoir thought I would just try the brake fluid trick seeing I had nothing to lose. I added bout 100 mills to resevoir and I have had no leaks since Fkn unbelievable I definitely recommend giving it a go before spending $ on the rebuild
I think the rebuild kit is about $26 from rockauto. Pretty cheap and about a days work.
True the kits are pretty cheap for both box and pump if you can do it yourself. Will get pretty exy if you have to pay someone else, for now bit of brake fluid seems to have softened all the rubbers and seals on both box and pump on my cruiser and stopped leaks will keep the rebuild kits on hand thou not sure if it will be long term fix
RTH: So I am doing this today. Do I really need to remove the steering wheel? If not how do I remove the shaft easily.
I didn't remove the steering wheel on mine. Unbolt the shaft where it slides over the gearbox, unbolt the gearbox and you should be able to work it forward and out. When I did this though my engine was out, so your results might vary.
Okay. I'll give that a shot. Any other ideas appreciated.
One more idea, don't get distracted while your buttoning everything back together. If you forget to run the lock nut down tight to the rear of the box you will have a high pressure leak. Albeit, easily fixed with a 17mm wrench. Also its a good time to replace the lines, high pressure can be had from rockauto for a good price, the other stuff can be gotten by the foot from the auto store. This was the source of my other leak where I had a line improperly clamped, another easy fix though.
Thanks. I actually replaced my lines a few years ago so they are good. I'm taking pictures of the box removal. The OP has the rebuild pics so I guess sill take box removal pics.
So I got steering box out....separating the steering shaft from the input shaft took me an hour and half. I should of removed the clamp bolt and soaked it with penetrating spray for at least an hour or more. The rust rally kept it on there good.
Thanks all for the help I will post a step by step with pics to help others
Thanks all for the help I will post a step by step with pics to help others
So I got steering box out....separating the steering shaft from the input shaft took me an hour and half. I should of removed the clamp bolt and soaked it with penetrating spray for at least an hour or more. The rust rally kept it on there good.
Thanks all for the help I will post a step by step with pics to help others
one thing I forgot when i did mine was to mark the splines before you pull them out that way your steering wheel stays straight when you get it back together
So i have the piston and balls in and th bolts tightened down then I discovered a ball on the floor... does missing one ball affect anything? (no Lance Armstrong jokes please..lol)
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Yes, it needs all of the balls. When disassembling, I stick them to magnets, 33 for the piston and 11 for the bridge.
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2004
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- 274
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- 23,233
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- Chandler, AZ
- Website
- www.tontorecreationalliance.org
You don't want to remove the steering wheel, mess up the shaft to wheel relationship. The proper way; center the box, I do it on the bench before putting the center play removing piston/spring/plug in. Turn the box all of the way to the stop, then the other way counting the turns, divide the number of turns by 2 and turn that many to center, confirm by looking into the center play removing device hole, the cam should be centered in the hole.
Now, on the air bag, clock spring rigs, center the steering wheel, the same method, turn till there is slight bind in each direction and return to center. Then install the box and shaft. When done fine tune the center with the drag link.
I have to disassemble it again for 1 ball? What could possibly happen without it?
Okay so I have 1 less ball in the piston. I continually turned the input shaft and it was smooth and it hit the stop in the same number of turns both ways. I guess i'll see for sure when it has fluid and is under pressure. Right now I am waiting for the paint to dry on it overnight. Cross fingers!
Iv'e pulled my 80's box apart to fix the input shaft leak and found that the bridge holding the 11 ball bearings was kinked on both ends so that they couldn't move....strange...steering felt fine all the same, and it looks as though I'm the first to dismantle it. I used a pair of pliers and straightened them out, not sure why or how it could've happened.
I used a SKF 7007 seal if anyone is interested for the input shaft
I used a SKF 7007 seal if anyone is interested for the input shaft
