steel wheels (1 Viewer)

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Eric,

Aren't Tundra's steelies 16x7 ? I thought the minimum width of 8" is required for all 285s (atleast all that I've seen).
 
sjcruiser said:
Eric,

Aren't Tundra's steelies 16x7 ? I thought the minimum width of 8" is required for all 285s (atleast all that I've seen).

yes, 16x7
many people out there said that the 7" was fine for 285s and that if anything it would help
with retention.

E
 
anybody got a pick of the factory steelies and what is the rim width of toyota steelies?
 
The more you round the tire the more it gets squirrely, So by putting a 285 on a 7 inch rim you will round it more, Thus handling on curves will get a less postive feel. Retention meaning the tire will not pop a bead? if so what pressures will you be airing down to? Unless you intend on droping down below 11-12 psi this would not be that much of a factor.
Rounding the tire will also wear the center faster. It takes less air pressure to keep the tire flat across the surface, thus also reducing the handling. If keeping the tire inflated to recommend air pressure, less tire will be on the road. I hope these things were also discussed when chosing this tire rim combo. I beleive the 16 x steelies are 8 wide, dan can confir this. later robbie
 
Panzer said:
anybody got a pick of the factory steelies and what is the rim width of toyota steelies?

as mentioned above, the Tundra/T100 etc steelie is 7" wide and the TLC steelie is 16x8" (for the later models?)
E
 
The bead-to-bead width of the 42601-60361 wheel is 8 inches. Flange-to-flange is 9 inches.
 
C-Dan.
Are the 42601-60361 the 16x8 semi solid stellies I see on non USA FJ80's or it the 15 inch wheel that I have seen on the later run Fj62s... the ones with the sort of oval styled holes in it.
Thanks,
CAS
 
Panzer said:
C-Dan.
Are the 42601-60361 the 16x8 semi solid stellies I see on non USA FJ80's or it the 15 inch wheel that I have seen on the later run Fj62s... the ones with the sort of oval styled holes in it.
Thanks,
CAS

The 42601-60361 is a 16x8 inch wheel with zero degrees off-set and 4.5 inches of backspace. It has 5 oval slots and is argent silver in color and weighs aproximately 42 pounds a copy.
 
robbie said:
The more you round the tire the more it gets squirrely, So by putting a 285 on a 7 inch rim you will round it more, Thus handling on curves will get a less postive feel. Retention meaning the tire will not pop a bead? if so what pressures will you be airing down to? Unless you intend on droping down below 11-12 psi this would not be that much of a factor.
Rounding the tire will also wear the center faster. It takes less air pressure to keep the tire flat across the surface, thus also reducing the handling. If keeping the tire inflated to recommend air pressure, less tire will be on the road. I hope these things were also discussed when chosing this tire rim combo. I beleive the 16 x steelies are 8 wide, dan can confir this. later robbie

so Robbie, you saying it's a bad idea to redneck beadlock it by putting something like 13-1/2" tires on an 8" rim? Course for trail use only :D Leaning back towards IROKs again for next season. Thanks.
 
red neck bead lock, at a loss here. No bead lock but hoping by putting the bead in closer to center you hope not to loose a bead? Well for a off road tire this may be ok, but I personally think that the more you pinch the tire the easier it will be to loose a bead if you lower the air too much. A road tire is a different story, you are driving highway speeds daily and going places with it to get around with. the more you pinch the tire at the waste the more squirrely, less responsive it is. Is this really what you want on a daily baisis? As for a trail tire, the thougts change a whole bunch. You may want the rim away from the tria, or rocksl, on a 13 inch tire (tread or carcuss width, there is a difference) I beleive you would end up with less rubber on the trail vx a 10 inch rim, less rounding of the tire. I currently have 36 13 16 swamper on 10 inch rims, I love it set this way, I have nick the rims a couple of time, but not bad. I would not go any other way. More stability in off camber situation(it hard to believe 2 extra inching of rim will do), more responsive steering, and tread on the trail at higher pressure, tire will also stand higher at lower pressures. Just some thoughts and what I have found for my truck. Next set of rims will be 17 x 10 for the next DD tire. (37 mtr all terians). people seem to love the IROCK here, mostly in the radial. I have not heard about the performance of the bias IROCK. later robbie
 
cruiserdan said:
The 42601-60361 is a 16x8 inch wheel with zero degrees off-set and 4.5 inches of backspace. It has 5 oval slots and is argent silver in color and weighs aproximately 42 pounds a copy.

this 361, is that the one that looks very much like the OEM LC alloy? For the LC, right? That somebody posted a photo of recently? With the star spoke pattern?

E
 
Tundra Steelies are available on eBay cheap. I missed out on one set for $50 and was pissed. then a couple of weeks later I picked up four for $40. I wheel the alloys for all the reasons Robbie mentioned, but I can't afford a second set. I might also mount snow tires on the steels if I hadn't already powdercoated the alloys as the salt just tears up the finish.

I thought the steels would be a good idea to put on the T-100 so I could swap tires back and forth with the 80 if I wanted. Now I can buy one size rim diameter tire.

Also, if i decide to go weld on bead locks, it would be much easier with the Tundra steelies.

I can get the alloys to balance if I play with the cone until there is no perceivable runout. The steelies will not. The hub "fingers" are too thin to get just right.
 
Well since were on the subject of steel wheels would anyone know the weight of one as compared to an 80 alloy?
 
Scott_sFZJ80 said:
Well since were on the subject of steel wheels would anyone know the weight of one as compared to an 80 alloy?


I guess you missed reply 92....:D

The steel wheels are about 42 lbs each.

Roughly twice the weight of the alloys.
 
Put a 33" MTR on a OEM steel wheel and it's freaking heavy. It's easy pulling them off but putting them on is a challenge (to me anyway). Kinda of awkward lifting and positioning on the studs.

Time for some weight lifting I guess.
 

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